{"id":163,"date":"2010-02-03T10:00:04","date_gmt":"2010-02-03T15:00:04","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/mymontys.com\/wordpress\/?p=163"},"modified":"2010-02-03T10:00:04","modified_gmt":"2010-02-03T15:00:04","slug":"pruning-roses-for-winter-dormancy","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wordpress.mymontys.com\/?p=163","title":{"rendered":"Pruning Roses for Winter Dormancy"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"\"<\/a>

Monty Justice Applies Liquid Carbon to his Roses<\/p><\/div>\n

Want to know when to Prune your Roses?\u00a0 Well me, too.\u00a0 And when I need to know ANYTHING about roses, I check with Monty Justice.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 He is one of the co-founders of Monty’s Plant Food Company, a frequent rose judge, columnist, and owner of his own rose care company. Oh, and did I mention that he is an octogenarian?!\u00a0 So, when he speaks…I listen.<\/p>\n

Here is his advice on pruning roses.\u00a0 (note:\u00a0 He lives in Kentucky.\u00a0 You may need to modify your schedule slightly to accomodate your particular growth zone)\u00a0 Just bear in mind that pruning should be done between the FIRST blooom cycle and before NEW SPRING growth appears.<\/p>\n

In the fall, crowns and bud unions should be just below ground. \u00a0You can do what I call “pre-pruning” after a frost or temperatures in the 30 degree F. range before the plants are dormant. \u00a0Remove damaged, twiggy, crossover stems and foliage, a foot or more from the ground. \u00a0Also open up the congested middle by taking out one cane to the ground. \u00a0You can do this when temperatures are moderate. \u00a0Do nothing to the length of remaining stems or leaves. \u00a0Continue to add Monty’s 2-15-15 every time you spray.<\/p>\n

\u00a0Before the soil warms and new growth begins, (March) do a final pruning – remaining leaves and buds, and tiny laterals at the top of each rose plant. \u00a0Seek a uniform height by shortening stems above five feet.<\/p>\n

\u00a0Begin spraying with your accustomed fungicide and insecticide when the buds are pea size and or the “purplish-red” leaves are turning green. \u00a0Disease and insects will not attack until this change takes place. \u00a0Add one tablespoon of both vinegar and epsom salts plus one half teaspoon Monty’s 2-15-15 to each gallon of spray material. \u00a0No need to add a spreader sticker if Monty’s is added. \u00a0The humics in Monty’s takes the pesticides and nutrients into the plant effectively through the leaves and buffers the potential for burn or other damage. The vinegar acidifies the solution making the pesticides retain their viability for an extra day or two.<\/p>\n

\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0M<\/strong>agnesium is significantly important and provides three specific benefits. \u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n