{"id":367,"date":"2011-04-07T08:51:41","date_gmt":"2011-04-07T12:51:41","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/mymontys.com\/wordpress\/?p=367"},"modified":"2011-04-06T16:01:39","modified_gmt":"2011-04-06T20:01:39","slug":"reducing-or-even-eliminating-transplant-shock","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wordpress.mymontys.com\/?p=367","title":{"rendered":"Reducing (or even eliminating) Transplant Shock"},"content":{"rendered":"

The Root of the Problem<\/strong><\/p>\n

Transplant Shock happens when plants are moved.\u00a0 Unlike humans, plants were not designed to be shuffled around. In nature, once a plant is rooted, that is where it stays.\u00a0 However, we are always waiting to change and design our environment and that means moving plants; either planting new annuals every year or moving, cutting, and thinning existing plants to more aesthetically pleasing areas. So, transplant shock happens when you move plants, but why?<\/p>\n

The answer is all in the roots.\u00a0 We tend to talk about roots as if they were one ubiquitous mass.\u00a0 They are, in reality, not a mass but a system with individual parts serving particular functions.\u00a0 The tap root is one or two long, thick\u00a0roots that generally go straight down, deep into the soil.\u00a0Think of this root as the “trunk” of your plant. \u00a0This root serves to access deep reserves of water,\u00a0to add structural integrity,\u00a0and to provide a wedge which breaks up the soil and allows for development of the second set of roots.\u00a0 This second set is somewhat smaller and grow out laterally from the main tap root.\u00a0 If the tap root is the “trunk”, these are the limbs and like limbs they stretch out, cross each other, and provide bulk.\u00a0 The main function of these roots is to provide stability, serve as an anchor to the plant to keep it from moving, and to hold the soil so that the plant can get the water and nutrients it needs from its environment.\u00a0 They also serve as host for the most important roots.\u00a0 The third set of roots is the hair-like feeder roots.\u00a0 These roots are very small, even on the biggest plants.\u00a0 They are thin, wiry, and about the size of a human hair.\u00a0 The ends, or growing points, are the only place where the plant can actually take up nutrients and the majority of water. Without getting too deep into the science, this is where the microbes and beneficial bacteria thrive and do their job of converting minerals into nutrients.<\/p>\n

The problem with these feeder roots is even though they are vital to the plant, they are also the most susceptible to damage.\u00a0 Some research shows that exposure to the air for even 3-4 minutes is enough to cause them to dry out and die.\u00a0 They are also very easy to break. So, when you transplant the plants, even if you are careful, it is very easy to disturb this section of the root system and when you do, it takes the plant time to replace them.\u00a0 Until then, the plant is getting very little nutrition or water.\u00a0The plant enters survival mode, any flower is jettisoned as it fights to allocate stored resources for survival rather than reproduce. \u00a0As more resources are required to re-grow these vital roots, (and because it is getting no nutrition) it wilts. And this reaction is what is known as transplant shock.<\/p>\n

So what can you do? Here are a few tips:<\/p>\n

1) Be as gentle as possible.<\/strong>\u00a0 Handle the root ball of the transplants as carefully as possible.\u00a0 But know this. Even though you are careful, the feeder roots are so delicate they are going to break; it\u2019s inevitable.<\/p>\n

2) Prepare the new home.<\/strong>\u00a0 Even if you are planting into the ground, you will want to provide a new home that is delicate.\u00a0 Heavy clay soils are generally compacted and hard for the tiny roots to penetrate \"\"<\/a>so mix some\u00a0of the host soil with sand or soilless media and fill the hole loosely BEFORE transplanting.\u00a0 Then remove just enough of the soil to make room for the new plant.\u00a0<\/p>\n

3) Make sure the transplant is not root bound.<\/strong>\u00a0 There should be a good amount of roots at the outer edges but they should not be circling around the root zone in a solid mass of white.\u00a0 If they are, they will need a haircut, either by actually cutting and freeing some of the roots or by pulling them away to thin them out. This will kill of some of the feeder roots, but will cause fewer problems in the long term. You should introduce the plant to its new home as quickly as possible. I usually root-dip my plants for 10 minutes or so in a weak solution of Monty\u2019s 4-15-12<\/a> or\"\"<\/a> 2-15-15 <\/a>(1 ounce per gallon of water) prior to placing them in the new environment.\u00a0 This loosens up their native soil and gives them a quick shot of energy. Then once all the plants are in, I water them in with any remaining solution. The picture to the right is lettuce and spinach two days after transplanting.\u00a0 Notice no signs of shock or wilt. You should place the plant its new environment just deep enough so that the stem and root ball is below ground level. Once the plant is in place back fill with the soilless\/host soil mix. Be carefull not to press the soil around the plant as this can lead to problems with compaction.<\/p>\n

4) Feed the plant.<\/strong> Some experts advise putting a bit of fertilizer in the bottom of the new home prior to transplanting. I have done it both ways and have not noticed much difference either way.\u00a0 USE A LOW SALT, LOW NITROGEN fertilizer.\u00a0 Nitrogen can burn even healthy plant material, much less tender feeder roots. Plus, nitrogen is the nutrient responsible for growth.\u00a0 There will be a time for that, but now it is too early.\u00a0 One of the biggest problems I see with zealous homeowners is giving the plant too much nitrogen too quickly.\u00a0 This is especially true for perennials and larger transplants like trees and shrubs.\u00a0 For these, I recommend very little nitrogen at all for the first full season.\u00a0 Here’s why.\u00a0 Nitrogen generates growth.\u00a0 The mere presence of the nutrient tells the plant to get bigger, taller, and put on more leaves.\u00a0 If you do that, and do not have an underlying root system to support this vigorous growth a few things can happen:\u00a0 One, the plant will become top heavy and a strong wind will uproot the plant because there are not enough anchors holding it place. Two, and this is the biggest problem.\u00a0 You know that droughts are going to happen.\u00a0 When they do, the plant needs a good root system to access available sub-soil moisture reserves.\u00a0 If, by applying nitrogen, you have spurred top-growth you have increased the burden on the plant by giving it more leaves, stems, and flowers to maintain and by not giving it the root system that it needs to provide the water and nutrients it is starving for. Instead of nitrogen, look for a fertilizer that is relatively higher in potassium and phosphorous (the second two numbers on the label).\u00a0 These are the nutrients that a plant uses to develop good root systems and the ones you need to ensure successful transplants.\u00a0<\/p>\n

By using a product like Monty’s 2-15-15 or 4-15-12<\/a>\u00a0you can give the plant what it needs, and according to gardeners across the country, as well as my own experience, virtually eliminate transplant shock.\u00a0 Get more details on transplanting in our how-to guides on our website<\/a>. While this is still true for annuals, it is not as critical, cause let\u2019s face it, you will be throwing them away in 6 months anyway.\u00a0 Give them a week or two to settle in, then you can start using a higher nitrogen fertilizer.\u00a0 The low-salt issue is still a concern so I recommend using Monty\u2019s 8-16-8<\/a>.\u00a0 It\u2019s high in nitrogen, but it has one of the lowest salt indexes on the market.<\/p>\n

5) Water.<\/strong>\u00a0 Believe it or not, most homeowners are so afraid of under-watering their new plants, that they go too far and over water them.\u00a0 Over-watering is just as bad.\u00a0 It depletes oxygen form the soil, collapses pore space, compacts the soil, and creates an environment ideal for developing anaerobic bacteria (the bad ones) which leads to rot, disease, and can increase the likelihood of insect problems.\u00a0 If you are watering your plants keep them evenly moist so that they have to grow their roots both out and down.\u00a0 this will give you a better anchor and will get feeder roots out of the topsoil.\u00a0 If the roots stay in the upper reaches of the soil profile you will end up fighting drought conditions throughout the life of the plant as this layer of soil is the first to dry out in the hot dry days of summer.\u00a0 To accomplish this, stick your finger about an inch deep into the soil (up to your first knuckle) at the edge of the drip line.\u00a0 If the soil does not feel noticeably damp at your fingertip, it is time to water.<\/p>\n

By following these few simple guidelines and by incorporating Monty’s Fertilitly Products you can get your plants off to the best start possible and virtually eliminate transplant shock.<\/p>\n

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The Root of the Problem Transplant Shock happens when plants are moved.\u00a0 Unlike humans, plants were not designed to be shuffled around. In nature, once a plant is rooted, that is where it stays.\u00a0 However, we are always waiting to change and design our environment and that means moving plants; either planting new annuals every […]<\/p>\n

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