Ask Monty’s – Planning Your Spring Garden

By nancyc on March 20, 2012

The Scoop on Peat Moss
“I have read from time to time that peat moss is really not considered that good of a soil conditioner, yet I also read articles that talk about it being so great.  What’s the real scoop on peat moss?”
Rhonda, Mooresville, North Carolina

Rhonda:
Peat moss is considered a common soil conditioner, but not one that can stand alone.  While peat moss is definitely a lightweight, natural conditioner, it is used to help loosen heavy soils and improves the soil’s ability to hold moisture.  Combine it with compost, limestone, and ground wood or sawdust and you have a good combination going as a soil conditioner.
If you are not into all of that work then there is a better solution. The essence of the compost and peat moss is humus. That is the substance that makes it so effective.  With Monty’s Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner we have separated this humus into its base components then cleaned it.  What is left is an activated form of humic that is ready to go to work in your soil.
Nature will eventually do the same thing with your compost and peat moss, it just takes longer and requires a lot more work on your part. By applying Monty’s Liquid Carbon annually (at least) you can quickly remediate troubled soils. Plus this year, with our all-new ready to spray formula, “better just got easier!”  All you have to do is attach the new container to your garden hose and apply.

Good Companion Vegetables for Tomatoes
“I’ve finally learned that I don’t need to grow a dozen tomato plants for our small family needs, often giving a lot of them away or canning way more than we really need.  So this spring I will have room for other plants in my garden.  Are there certain vegetables that might do better than others around tomatoes, as I still need to plant some? ”
Liam, Downers Grove, Illinois

Liam:

Carrots, lettuce, radish, onions and parsley are good companion plants for tomatoes.  Did you know that basil is even known to improve tomato growth and flavor as well when planted by them?  Cabbage and cauliflower are NOT good tomato “neighbors.”  If you are interested in planting dill, do it on the other end of the garden.

Chives as Organic Solution in Rose Garden
“Will chives ward off aphids and keep my roses from getting black spot disease?  I’ve read this in an organic magazine, but it’s the only time I’ve heard of this.  I didn’t really want to plant them by my roses, because I know they spread, but I sure would like to keep my roses as healthy as possible and having chives as a backdrop wouldn’t be so bad.”
Merrill, Iowa City, Iowa

Merrill:
There are a lot of natural plant repellants out there, which is great for the organic gardener, but should not to be taken as cure-alls.  As a gardener, being proactive pays off, but daily plant attention and recognizing problems from the get-go is also important.  Perennial chives have been known to ward off aphids, as does peppermint and garlic.
Black spot disease is caused by water splashing up on your leaves, so be careful how you water roses. Since their roots are so shallow I always mulch around my roses, which also absorbs the splash from rains and watering, which helps control black spot.  There are plenty of products on the market, some more natural than others that can be sprayed on the leaves to eradicate black spot attacks.  They are all very effective, but you have to keep on top of it regardless.
The best defense is a good offense, and with roses this means healthy rose plants.  Most pests and diseases are opportunistic, so if you have healthy plants, there are fewer opportunities for pests and disease.  The best way to keep rose plants healthy is to feed them with Monty’s 8-16-8 Growth Formula early in the season when shoots start to show and as leaves appear, and then feed them with Monty’s 2-15-15 Root and Bloom once buds appear on the rose plant and through the bloom cycle.  Foliar feeding should help strengthen the stems and leaves, thereby helping to eliminate any “opportunity” for a pest or disease to set in or take over.

Give Gladiolus Another Chance
“I planted Gladiolus bulbs and Sunflowers together last summer and got great Sunflowers but no Glads.  Was it bad bulbs or overpowering Sunflowers?”
Liza, Wake Forest, North Carolina

Liza:
Your Sunflowers may have overpowered you Glads, perhaps shading them or sucking up all the Glads’ needed water and nutrients.  Sunflowers will do that.  And Glads need just as much sun as Sunflowers.  Sunflowers also contain a toxin that can harm other plants, although I have not had problems with planting them myself as a border in my vegetable garden, tucked in with Black-Eyed Susans and even with Zinnias and Cannas.  Give those Glads another shot this spring, away from those Sunflowers and in the full sun they love.

Marigolds as Organic Pest Control
“My grandmother always planted a border of marigolds in her vegetable garden because she said they warded off pests.  I’ve never done it, but is there any truth to it?  I’d hate to waste the marigolds on my garden space if it’s just to beautify my garden, as I have limited space.”
Jeannie,  Galena, Illinois

Jeannie:
Sounds like Grandma knew something about “companion planting,” which is the safest, most natural way to garden organically.  Marigolds are easy to grow and helps keep away aphids.  And, you can dry the flowers for seeds in the fall for planting from year to year, so there’s not even a financial investment involved either.  They also say marigolds will ward off thrips, tomato hornworms, squash bugs and whiteflies.    They are also known to repel harmful root knot nematodes (soil dwelling microscopic white worms) that attack tomatoes, potatoes, roses, and strawberries. The root of the marigold produces a chemical that kills nematodes as they enter the soil. If a whole area is infested, at the end of the season, you can turn the marigolds under so the roots will decay in the soil and then safely plant there again the following spring.  Perhaps you might want to rethink those marigolds – there’s more than meets the eye with this pretty little flowers.

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It Ain’t Called The Volunteer State For Nothin’

By Dennis on August 2, 2011

When I was much younger, though not raised on a farm, I was raised by a momma who was. And that is the next best thing I suppose.  It was from her that I learned to speak “country’ with the ease of a local using words and phrases like “on the halves,” “mess of beans,” and “good soakin’ rain.”  While other kids were watching Saturday Morning Cartoons, I was up around daybreak and headed out to a local farmer’s field she had discovered that week to pick green beans, or whatever was in season “on the halves”…now for you city-folk that means that you pick the beans for the farmer for free, in return you get to keep half of what you pick.  It is kind of a rural barter system that has worked for generations. Then throughout the week, while other kids got to just watch their TV shows in the evening, my mom believed that our TV was somehow mystically powered by the sound of snapping beans, shelling peas, shucking corn or whatever else was in season at the time.  She would give us a bucket full of the crop d’jour and we could keep watching TV as long as we were working on those crops.  If we stopped, the TV was turned off…and we had to finish working our vegetables anyway.  I am sure that I complained about it, you’ll have to ask momma.  But I also know that I did it and looking back on it, it was not a bad existence.  The real pay off came not only from a good work ethic, but from the tastes and smells of our country kitchen right in the middle of a Dallas suburb.

In addition to pickin on the halves at area farms momma also always raised a small garden of her own.  It was from there that I learned the joy of “volunteer” crops.  Volunteer crops are plants that come up on their own.  You didn’t plant them, didn’t plan on them, they were just God’s little extras. 

As a general rule the science behind this phenomenon is this, you raise a crop in year one, say corn for example. At some point during the year one of the kernels fall off of the cob either through the action of animals or harvest and lays there on the ground all winter.  In year two, as spring comes and you work the ground you accidentally cover up the seed with soil.  That’s all it takes.  Soon as the soil warms in the spring, the seed germinates and VIOLA! You now have a plant that you were not counting on…a volunteer plant.  Mostly these volunteer plants came up roughly in the area where they were planted the previous year.  But sometimes crops would come up in unexpected places or even from plants that you had never planted.  Those were the mysteries, the ones that made you scratch your head and say, “Now where on earth did THAT come from?”

I didn’t understand it then, but momma was always so excited by these extra blessings. I saw them as a nuisance.  It was the corn stalk that I had to work around when trying to cultivate the beans.  And may the Lord have mercy on you if you uprooted one of momma’s volunteer plants cause it was “in the way.”

Flash forward 25+ years. Now I am the one with the garden out back, pickin on the halves, and teachin my kids the value of shuckin corn. And this year, I built a retaining wall to hold a new flower bed in the front of our house.  I planted perennials, annuals, and some ground cover so that it could grow and develop into a great flower bed and add some color to the front of our house and our otherwise unremarkable landscape.  The one thing I did not plant was a tomato.

Imagine my surprise, then, when in early June, a small plant began to emerge right next to one of my purple pansies. I was about to uproot it along with the other weeds when it occurred to me, “That looks like a tomato plant.” I honestly have no idea where it came from; apparently it was in the leavings as a bird flew overhead and left a deposit. I was about to uproot it, but then the guilt and shame and my momma’s voice rang in my head and I didn’t dare. 

I thought, “Okay, we’ll see what this does. Who knows, we may get four or five tomatoes off of it.  It will be a great conversation piece and I can teach my kids about volunteer crops.”

This is one plant; one volunteer tomato plant.

6 weeks later and a few applications of Monty’s as I was spraying my flowers and it now OWNS my flower bed!  What I expected to be a small plant about two feet tall and spindly has far surpassed any of the cultivated and staked tomatoes out in my garden. This plant is at least 10 feet long, about 6 feet across, and 2.5 to three feet tall.  It has grown from its place in the center of the flower bed to where it is over-spilling my retaining wall on three sides and hanging over my porch on the fourth.  It, quite simply is massive, and full of fruit. (mostly cherry tomatoes). 

This volunteer tomato plant has overgrown the boundaries of my retaining wall flower bed and is spilling over the wall an about two feet out into my yard.

I knew that Tennessee, my current home, is nicknamed the Volunteer State.  I thought it had something to do with the historical nature of the residents to volunteer for battle when the country needed it.  Now I am beginning to suspect it may be due to their vegetables.

This volunteer tomato plant is the most productive plant I have this season. It came up on its own and has been left largely alone, jsut to see what it would do. Who knew?

Whatever the reason, the biggest, healthiest, and most productive tomato plant I have this season is a little plant that somehow mysteriously ended up in my flower bed. It is just a little something extra for a gardener who is just trying to learn and to put into practice all of those lessons I was taught following behind my mom with a bushel basket as we picked beans on the halves.

The lesson here for the rest of you.  Listen to my mom.  If it “comes up volunteer, leave it alone;” nature may be waiting to surprise you.  Now, if you’ll excuse me, I am going in to add a fresh sliced tomato to my sandwich and enjoy my lunch with a little extra blessing on the side.

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Ask Monty’s for 8/30/2010 Rain Barrels, Tomatoes, and Herbs

By Dennis on August 30, 2010

Ask Monty’s:

“I want to put in some rain barrels at the bottom of my downspouts for all the right reasons.  I was wondering if it makes a difference as to what kind of material the barrels are made of.”

Lowell,
Clifton, Colorado

Lowell:

Welcome to one of the most rewarding and easiest forms of water conservation!  Your plants and garden are going to love your mineral rich rainwater, while slashing your water consumption by up to 40% depending on how much you use it.  Plastic or wood rain barrels are fine and are sold commercially.  The normally come in 25 to 100 gallon options.

Just something to keep in mind though as a note of caution, rain barrels that collect water from copper roofs or from roofs where wood shingles or shakes have been treated with chromated copper arsenate to prevent moss or algae growth should not be used on editable plants.  If you have treated your roof with any chemicals at all you won’t want to use that water either.

Two other notes on rain water collection barrels:

In your neck of the woods especially, you’ll want to empty your rain barrel when the weather starts to freeze over the winter.  If you don’t have a protected indoor area to store it, just turn it upside down and secure it to prevent animals from making a winter home in it or getting water accumulation in it which can freeze, expand, and potentially crack the barrel, especially one that is made of plastic.

Finally, make sure you keep a mesh screen over the top and that you clean it frequently.  The mess can collect debris which will interfere with collection and provide a place for mold and mildew to form.  However, without one all of those items will end up in your barrel and can foul your water.  Additionally, mosquitoes look for ponded, still water to lay their eggs.  An open rain barrel would make an ideal breeding ground for them.  Not only will that make time in your yard less pleasant, across the south this year there has been another outbreak of west nile virus. By eliminating standing water form your property you can greatly reduce mosquito populations for you and your neighbors.

If you are having trouble finding a barrel in your area, may we suggest you talk to one of our friends in Louisville?  This is the link to Naturally Horton’s  for those in the Louisville Metro, its in The Highlands.

Ask Monty’s: 

“When is the best time to harvest herbs?”

Carol
Aitkin, Minnesota

Carol:

The best time to harvest herbs is right before the flowers open.  This is when their aroma and taste in their essential oils are at their peak like thyme, basil and mint.  The preferred time to pick them is also in the morning when they are at their freshest and the most potent.  Never pick herbs in wet or humid conditions. Finally, Monty’s 2-15-15 works well to keep the plants in the flower cycle and may help elevate brix levels, which in herbs will increase the aromatics and flavors as well as improve shelf life.

Also, don’t forget one of our favorite places to visit and to visit virtually is Beagle Ridge Herb Farm in Wytheville, VA.  They are a great source for information for all things herbs, natural gardening, and GARLIC!  check them out here.

Ask Monty’s:

“I’ve read that instead of pulling out spent tomato plants, you can simply cut them back and keep watering them to encourage new growth and fruit.  Is there any truth to this?”

Mike
Norwalk, Iowa

Mike:

Depending on your weather cooperation, this is true and new growth will develop, along with a respectable new harvest.  Make sure you pick tomatoes often, keeping the weight off the stems and branches so they don’t break or bend.  It’ll also give your other plants more room to produce freely.

Once you prune them, you will want ot help encourage new growth as well as help the plant deal with the stresses involved with pruning.  Monty’s 8-16-8 should help with that, then once your plants have regrown and have begun to set blooms again, switch to Monty’s 2-15-15 to enhance flower set and fruit production.

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