Monthly Archives: September 2010

Ask Monty’s for 9/30/10: Roses, Coneflowers and Organic Pest Control

Ask Monty’s:

“Do you know of any more natural ways to control garden pests?  I’m trying to stay as chemical free as possible, but some of my methods aren’t covering all the bases.”

Renee
Grey Eagle, Minnesota

Renee:

I applaud your approach and environmental dedication.  While chemicals can be quick, effective answers to warding off garden pests, sometimes some very easy proactive approaches can be just as effective.  Probably the number one garden routine to establish is taking that daily walk in the garden to look for any changes in plant leaves, stalks or flowers.  I’ve caught many “new developments” taking place in my garden on several occasions and warded off major damage with that daily check (Tomato worms can strip a plant in the blink of an eye – I swear!)  That said, it also might mean thinking like a pest or insect and searching for signs of where they hide under leaves.  My mother-in-law, who was a great fisherman, used to say, “If you want to catch fish, you have to think like a fish!”  Same advice applies.

Hand picking off pests such as snails and slugs and destroying affected leaves is important in staying ahead of the game.  Planting garlic, dill, fennel, carrots and parsley among your plants also encourages beneficial insects such as ladybugs to rid your garden of a variety of pests. 

If you’re planting annuals or garden vegetables, rotate where you plant them from year to year, as different plants require different nutrients.  Weeding is also very important so you control desirable habitat for those unwanted pests.  A couple of natural offenses for pests are insecticidal soap mixed with water or pureed cloves of garlic (2) to a pint of water and use as a spray.

Two last thoughts.  First, don’t assume that just because the insect are harming your plants that they are harming your garden.  that can be a tough pill to swallow.  However, think like nature thinks.  These insects prey on the weak plants first.  They are easier targets with less native resitance.  So destorying yoru plants may be doing you a favor in the long run.  The plants that they kill likely would not have produced much fruit and owuld have still taxed the resources like water and nutrients just like they were your best producers.  Additionally if you save seeds for next year from this season, the seeds you save, after the insect have moved through, are naturally resistant to that particular pest. Survival of the fittest can go a long way to giviing you years of improved gardening. Finally, along hte same lines, since we know that insect prey ont he weakest plants first, make sure you have as few ‘weak links’ as possible.  Water adequately and provide additional nutrients with Monty’s foliar applications. Personally, I treat my plants to an extra dose of Monty’s 8-16-8 or 2-15-15 (depending on the plants growth cycle) once a week.

Ask Monty’s:

“My coneflowers this year looked terrible.  They turned brown and looked wilted all the time.  I tried watering them regularly and even fertilized them and they still continued to look deformed and the flowers were sparse.  What happened?  I would rather have had them not come up at all, they were that unsightly.”

Coco
Clyde, Ohio

Coco:

Coneflowers thrive in hot, dry conditions so you may have over watered them in your efforts to revive them.  But when you mentioned the plant deformity and sparse looking flower heads I think your plants have succumbed to aster yellows which is a disease caused by phytoplasoma, a plant killing microorganism transmitted by aster leafhoppers which can often occur from over watering.  Aster yellows can create the bizarre symptoms you suggest, along with other plant deformities.  There’s no cure for aster yellows so my best advice is to dig them up and remove any and all affected plants from your garden and destroy them by burning them or bagging them for the trash. Don’t put them in your compost pile.

Ask Monty’s:

“What’s the difference between a Multiflora Rose and a Virginia Rose?  They look the same and their flowers look similar as well.”

Trudi
Stillwater, Oklahoma

Trudi:

The only thing they really have in common is the fact that they are both deciduous shrubs and thrive in similar zones.  You must have seen these plants either side by side in size or in a photo because these plants are completely different in nature.  Multiflora Roses can grow up to 15 feet tall and are extremely evasive, forming thickets in all kinds of habitat, choking out natural plants and becoming a farmer’s agricultural nightmare.  One plant alone can produce up to one million seeds each year!

The plant you really want is the fragrant Virginia Rose.  This fast growing shrub gets between four to six feet tall and makes for a good hedge or as an addition to a wildlife garden.  The rose hips provide food for wildlife, hosts the Mourning Cloak Caterpillar and even have pretty reddish canes in winter as an added attraction.

Putting Your Best Petal Forward (pt 2): Grooming Roses for Rose Shows

Editor’s Note:  We have compiled several videos from noted rosarian and co-founder of Monty’s Plant Food Company, Monty Justice.  As a seasoned veteran, frequent winner, and judge of the Rose Show circuit, Justice is a sought-after consultant and speaker on all issues related to roses.  As such, we followed him to the Kentucky State Fair in the Fall of 2010 so he could teach us what judges are looking for, how to prep blooms for presentation, and in short, how to put your best bloom forward whether you are competing or just want to display your hard work in your home.  We hope you enjoy these segments and we look forward to hearing about your blue-ribbon successes.

Most roses are beautiful, but all roses are not show quality.  In this video, Monty’s Justice shows how to present roses with the ‘perfect’ round shape and the proper display of their petals.

Just like any competition, what separates the champions from the also-rans is attention to detail.  In this segment, Monty shows some of the tricks that winners use to get their blooms ready to face the judges.

Putting Your Best Petal Forward (pt 1): What the Judges are Looking for

Editor’s Note:  We have compiled several videos from noted rosarian and co-founder of Monty’s Plant Food Company, Monty Justice.  As a seasoned veteran, frequent winner, and judge of the Rose Show circuit, Justice is a sought-after consultant and speaker on all issues related to roses.  As such, we followed him to the Kentucky State Fair in the Fall of 2010 so he could teach us what judges are looking for, how to prep blooms for presentation, and in short, how to put your best bloom forward whether you are competing or just want to display your hard work in your home.  We hope you enjoy these segments and we look forward to hearing about your blue-ribbon successes.

Monty talks with us about what Judges are looking for in a winning rose.

In this segment, Monty examines a good specimen of a garden rose and uses it as an example of what the judges will notice.

Monty stops by one exhibit to show a flaw that judges are quick to notice in any competition.

Perfection aside, at the end of the day, what most novices appreciate about a rose is the way they smell. This class is custom suited for the beginning rose grower and the rank-and-file hobbyist who just appreciates the simple aspects of fresh roses. Put away your magnifying class and stop and smell the roses awhile.

Monty’s Rose Care Calendar for September

Below are rose care tips from Monty’s namesake and the creator of Monty’s Original Formula, Monty Justice, for the month of June. These tips are based on growth zone 6 and you should adjust the timing for your specific region and conditions.

September:   The hottest, most stressful days of summer are behind us, and if you have taken care of your roses all year, then you are getting ready for a beautiful display of new blooms.  I recommend using Monty’s 2-15-15 sprayed to the foliage of the plants to improve this flush of blooms and increase the vibrancy and their staying power.  However, one drawback to the cool nights and warm days is that the plants will not dry out as well as they do during the summer; this leads to mildew problems.  Spray purplish red growth at the top of the plants; treat for mildew as needed.  

When cutting blooms for your enjoyment you should have been cutting stems as long as desired since July. Be careful not to cut too much of the stem when you remove your roses for shows or for home enjoyment.  If you trim them back too far or if you prune too heavily there will not be enough sun or energy left to establish the base for new growth for next season.

Editor’s Note: September is also the time of year that many will be grooming their roses for exhibition.  Keep watching this blog for tips on what the judges are looking for and how to present your roses so they can put their best petal forward.

Ask Monty’s for 9/6/2010 – Winter Veggies, Tomato Rot, and Planting with Hardscapes

 Ask Monty’s:

“I’d like to plant some winter vegetables – I’m not ready to quit having fresh vegetables just yet!  What vegetables do you suggest I start with?”

Ambrose, Chickasha, Oklahoma

Ambrose:

You actually have quite a few options in your area – a little farther north though and your choices start to become more limited.  First of all, keep in mind that the best place to plant your winter crop will be in an area that has the most southern exposure you can get and a spot that will be best protected from the wind.  You need all the warmth you can get and no drying, cold winds to terrorize your efforts.  Plant your crops in the soil and not in raised beds either.  While a raised bed warms up fast in the spring, it is far too exposed to retain heat for winter crops.

That said, Kale is a good crop for greens for soups or just “greens” in the crock pot. Kale can even survive throughout the winter even in sub zero weather.  For a late fall or early winter you can plant Bok Choi, which has delicate white stalks and greens and are excellent for stir frying. It also matures quickly. 

Turnips are one of my all time favorites.  As a root crop they serve a duo food purpose with both their greens and fleshy radish like vegetable that they produce.  While the tops may finally freeze off, the turnip itself will grow right up until the ground turns hard.  But beware, deer love these and will seek them out readily!  I swear I think they can smell them!

Beets are excellent and similar to the turnip with their tops actually being even more durable to cold weather.  Certain types of lettuce also do well in early fall predominately.  Broccoli is also very resistant to cold.

A key factor in how well your crops will yield has to do with how well you protect them from the cold. If you have a greenhouse, you’re in great shape, but even cold frames and sheets and blankets will help protect your plants from the cold night temperatures.  I’ve even used a 75 watt light bulb and holiday string lights under the sheets to keep heavy frosts at bay!

Water your plants regularly of course, but stop once the threat of frost is evident.  The soil will hold the moisture, as will the plants, so excessive moisture will cause the plants to freeze.   

Ask Monty’s:

“Every year I struggle with tomatoes growing close to the ground and despite my religious mulching practice if I don’t catch them in time they rot as they ripen.  Other than staking them and running the risk of the heavy fruit laden branches breaking, what can a person do?”

Thad
Pasadena, Maryland

Thad:

I discovered a pretty simple solution to this same problem.  I plant my young plants in sturdy paper two quart square containers – like orange juice comes in – cutting the ends out and sinking them a ways in the ground to support the young plants.  They’re sturdy and durable and can simply be left in the ground as the plant grows until fall clean up.  I mulch the ground with grass clippings like I normally do to keep the moisture in and then I use plastic case size soft drink carriers that are only as high as a pop can, of course, and place them around the plants, leaving ample room around them.  As the plants grow and spread they lie across the containers safely up off the ground to hinder ground rot and keep air circulation.  I have cut my tomato rot down by at least 75%! 

Ask Monty’s:

“What plants thrive best in rock gardens, particularly between them?”  

Shay
Shad, Ohio

Shay:

Hens and chicks come to mind immediately.  Sedum will grow just about anywhere, but you would probably do better with the ground covering stone crop varieties which are even more drought resistant, smaller and will spread out and lounge over rocks and walks nicely.  Phlox comes in all colors, leaving a nice lush mat even when their little flowers are done blooming in early spring.  Even herbs like dill, fennel and mint will do well in rock gardens and serve duo purposes and interest, becoming lusher as you cut and use them.

If you have a lot of intense shade in an area of your rock gardens, even lily of the valley will spread easily though the soil cracks, as well Chinese lanterns.  But both of these plants will spread quickly so make sure you have a lot of room for these guys.