By nancyc on October 4, 2012
Whether you’re an avid vegetable gardener, a flower enthusiast, or just want a nice looking landscape, the secret to your success begins with your soil. Rather than simple and static, the soil is a dynamic environment. In an ideal situation, it is full of tiny plants and animals, microbial activity, and all of the organic processes that lead to healthy plant life.
Here are a few ways to tell if your soil is functioning properly, and if Monty’s Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner can help.
Look – The first step to assessing soil health is to simply look for clues. By observing what is going on at the surface you will have a good indication of what is taking place throughout your soil profile.
Key things to look for include:
- Large clods after tilling
- Cracks in the soil as it dries
- Bare patches or areas where vegetation won’t grow
- Heavy weed population
- Standing water after a rain
- Persistent “wet spots” or mud
- No, or few, earthworms, pill bugs, and other signs of healthy insects
- Heavy thatch layer or plant debris that does not decompose after a season
- Pale soil ranging from almost white to light brown. Healthy soil should be a rich brown to black.
Touch – Dig in to your soil. This is the fun part of gardening and maintaining your landscape. By actually getting your hands into the soil you can tell a lot about the make-up, tilth and texture of your soil. Good quality soil should be loose and light. In the morning when moisture will be at its peak level, dig in a few inches and grab a small handful of soil. Clench your fist around the dirt and then open your hand. What happens?
- If it falls apart into small pieces the soil is lacking enough organic matter and is tending towards a sand content that is too high.
- If it stays together in one large clod it is likely holding too much water and is primarily clay, which can lead to compaction problems and anaerobic conditions which will favor the formation of harmful bacteria.
- If it forms one central clod that breaks apart easily with slight touch or movement, is encircled by loose, separate bits of soil, you are on your way to creating an ideal environment for most plants.
Finally, if you have problems even digging into your soil at least 5-6 inches, you know that you have compaction problems that need to be addressed.
Smell – This is one that you may not have thought about, however, with a little practice your nose can tell you much about the condition of your soil. Healthy soils should smell earthy and moist, almost like well-maintained compost. If, on the other hand, what you smell is flat or non-existent, if it smells like a stagnant pond, or if it smells somewhat acrid, you know that you have situations that need to be addressed.
Gardening Practices – Some gardening practices themselves actually can be harmful to soil, especially over time. And, even beneficial gardening practices may be enhanced. If you are currently doing any of these things, consider using Monty’s Liquid Carbon to remediate, improve, or expedite your current practices.
Not all soils can be transformed into an ideal state, but they all can be improved. By observing, touching, and smelling your soil, and by analyzing your current lawn and garden activities you can begin to see where improvements can be made. By making simple, seasonal applications of Monty’s Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner, either in concentrate or with the new ready-to-spray bottle, you can maximize the potential of your soil and return it to a plant-friendly, vibrant environment.
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Posted in Advice, Ask Monty's, Flower Gardening, General Gardening, Lawns and Landscaping, Roses, Uncategorized, Vegetable Gardening Tagged compaction, compost, composting, fall gardening, fall lawn care, Fall lawn work, fertilizer, Garden, General Gardening, landscaping, leaves, Liquid Carbon, natural gardening, natural lawn care, OMRI, Organic Gardening, recommendations for lawns, soil test
By nancyc on July 22, 2012
To meteorologists, “drought” is measured in at least two ways. The first is a measure of ground water and surface water as measured by the Palmer Hydrological Drought Index. The second is a measure of rainfall over the past twelve months as indicated by the Palmer Drought Index. In either case, recent indices from July, 2011 through June, 2012, have shown the most extreme level of drought extending from Texas west to Nevada and California, north to Wyoming and into parts of the Midwest.
Source: National Climatic Data Center
In homeowner and gardening terms: Boy, it’s dry!
Let’s look at how you can help your plants recover once a drought ends.
During the drought, plants basically shut down and now need to be nursed back to health. The pores on the surface of the plant closed to prevent moisture loss. The nutrients and water stored in the cells of the outermost leaves withdrew, causing wilt, curling, and shriveling. Finally, the chlorophyll withdrew so it could be used to sustain the “heart” of the plant, which is why it turned yellow, became turgid and brittle. The plant opted to jettison those leaves and limbs to guarantee its ultimate survival.
A similar process took place below the soil line. The plant at first attempted to grow additional roots, especially tap roots, but eventually the auxiliary root systems and the root hairs dried, withered and eventually died.
When moisture returns, baby the plants at first, and bring them along slowly. Our first instinct is to go outside and pour on the nitrogen, which, after a drought is absolutely the wrong thing to do. The plant cannot process the nitrogen without the leaf surface, limb structure and root hairs to take it in. Also, it can’t handle the added stress of being forced to grow with a limited root mass to support the additional growth.
Rather than using a high N (nitrogen)* fertilizer, use a high P & K (phosphorous and potassium)* plant food to start. This will help build the root system so it can make use of the other nutrients and draw in the moisture needed to process the nitrogen. Monty’s Root and Bloom 2-15-15, a liquid plant food, is an excellent option.
Once you start to see vitality returning to the landscape, step up to Monty’s Growth Formula 8-16-8. By this time the plants can support the robust growth that Monty’s will provide.
Remember the soil. The drought has taken its toll on the soil as well. All of the microscopic flora and fauna — including earthworms and arthropods — have likely died or moved on and need to be encouraged to return. Soils most likely have collapsed during the drought, making moisture management a challenge and additional root growth almost impossible in the tight, compacted environment. Using Monty’s Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner will aid recovery. While it is always a good practice to condition soils at least annually to maintain peak efficiency, reduce compaction and boost organic matter, in drought years it may be critical.
*Plant foods and fertilizers are labeled according to the percentage of each of these three primary nutrients in the formulation:
N (nitrogen), P (phosphate) and K (potassium, or potash). For example, plant food labeled “2-15-15” contains 2% nitrogen, 15% phosphorous, and 15% potassium.
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Posted in Ask Monty's, Flower Gardening, General Gardening, Lawns and Landscaping, Vegetable Gardening Tagged 2-15-15, clay soil, compaction, drought, Fall, fall gardening, fall lawn care, fertilizer, Garden, Liquid Carbon, Monty's 2-15-15, Monty's 8-16-8, natural gardening, Nitrogen, OMRI
By nancyc on June 9, 2012
What is the difference between plant food or fertilizer that is “OMRI Listed” and “certified organic?” Who certifies these organic products?
Rick, Eagle Mountain, Utah
Rick:
This can be confusing and maybe even redundant, but the terminology and two endorsements actually work together and maybe even simultaneously.
First, the term “certified organic” can only legally apply to food and fiber products, and not to fertilizers or plant food. Second, as mentioned in an earlier post, fertilizer companies can use the term “organic” to refer to organic — or carbon-based — content, without any verification that any or all of the ingredients meet specifications set out by the National Organic Program to be listed by OMRI (see below).
The USDA has established the guidelines to meet “organic certification,” which ensures that the end product — food or fiber — has conformed to their strict uniform standards, which are verified by independent state or private organizations. The certifications include:
- Inspections of the processing facilities
- Detailed record keeping, and
- Periodic testing to ensure that growers and handlers are meeting the standards which have been set.
The Organic Materials Review Institute (OMRI) provides organic certifiers, growers and manufacturers and suppliers a listing of input products for use in the production, handling and processing of goods which will comply with the National Organic Program. One example of an input product is the fertilizer used in growing a crop. It is not the fertilizer that can be certified organic, only the food or fiber produced with the fertilizer than can ultimately be certified (by the NOP). The OMRI listing generally reads, “OMRI listed for use in organic production,” and should be accompanied by the OMRI logo. Again, OMRI does not certify food or fiber (or fertilizers) as organic: OMRI works with the USDA in complying with their standards.
Monty’s is proud to have our soil conditioners OMRI listed. For those seeking to improve the condition of their soil while being in compliance with the National Organic Program, but without the labor-intensive, and often expensive, nature of other options, Monty’s Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner is a terrific product.
For additional insights on labeling, please visit our blog posts from June 6 and June 8, or visit these handy websites:
- OMRI – information that organic farmers, handlers, certifiers, and other members of the organic community might find useful.
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Posted in Advice, All Natural, Ask Monty's, General Gardening, organic, Soil Conditioning, Uncategorized, Vegetable Gardening Tagged All Natural, Ask Monty's, Certified Organic, fertilizer, Garden, General Gardening, Liquid Carbon, Monty's Plant Food, natural lawn care, NOP, OMRI, OMRI Listed, Organic Gardening, soil conditioner, tomatoes, USDA
By nancyc on June 8, 2012
In our last post we covered the plant food and fertilizer labeling terms “Organic” and “OMRI Listed.” In our next post we’ll cover the term “Certified Organic.”
Today, we’ll address the moniker “All Natural,” for which there is no regulation.
There is a growing belief as society becomes greener that natural is always better – better for individual health and for the environment. For this reason, many companies use that term to entice you into buying their product.
Using the term “all natural” is not federally regulated and is used by companies as a marketing tool. Just how “natural” a product is and how beneficial it will be is largely determined by the company itself. Rather than muddying the waters further let me explain what Monty’s means when we use the term.
Some of our products, like our Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner, are OMRI listed for use in organic production. Some, like our fertility products, are not. However, we can tell you, in full confidence, that our plant food products are naturally-sourced and derived.
How important that distinction is to you will be based on your objectives. For example, if you are hoping to sell your vegetables in a local market as an organic product, then you could definitely use our Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioners but we could not recommend our plant foods to you for that purpose.
However, if you are simply looking for a product with superior performance and that is not harmful to you, your family and animals, or the environment, then you can use our naturally-derived plant food products with confidence.
I hope this helps. I know it can be a bit overwhelming. For more assurance and to help you purchase with confidence I would encourage you to develop a relationship with an independent garden center retailer so they can help guide you to products — like Monty’s Plant and Soil Products — that will help you achieve your goals.
Listed below are some handy links to OMRI, USDA and organic growing websites. Also, refer to our post from June 6, for information about the terms “organic” and “OMRI listed.” And stay tuned for our next post about the term “certified organic.”
- OMRI – information that organic farmers, handlers, certifiers, and other members of the organic community might find useful.
- USDA Organic Roots Collection – electronic collection of historic documents published before 1942 – a time before synthetic chemicals became widely used. Find state-of-the-art information and data that is still pertinent for today’s organic and sustainable agriculture.
- HowToGoOrganic.com – The Organic Trade Association offers this resource to help cultivate the growth of organic farming.
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Posted in Advice, All Natural, Ask Monty's, Flower Gardening, General Gardening, organic, Soil Conditioning, Uncategorized, Vegetable Gardening Tagged All Natural, Ask Monty's, fertilizer, General Gardening, Labeling, Liquid Carbon, Monty's Plant Food, natural gardening, NOP, OMRI, OMRI Listed, Organic Gardening, Plant Food, tomatoes, USDA
By nancyc on June 6, 2012
What is the difference between plant food or fertilizer labels that read “
Organic” and “All Natural?”
Derek, Calera, Alabama
Derek:
That is a good question and one that can be a bit confusing, so I’m going to address “Organic” in this post, “All Natural” in the next posting and “Certified Organic” in yet a third blog post. Let’s look at “organic” first. It should be understood, as your question implies that there is definitely a difference between “all natural” and “organic” when it comes to plant food or fertilizers – and especially food products. The terms are not interchangeable.
Organic fertilizers come from all-natural sources such as selected animal manures, mined rock powders, blood meal, feather meal, cottonseed meal, alfalfa meal, bone meal, fish extracts and seaweed by-products. Simply put, organic fertilizers are derived from animal or vegetable matter. Beyond that simple definition, though, things get a bit confusing.
The federal government has attempted to implement regulations on what it means to be “organic,” primarily with regard to the production of food and fiber. A fertilizer company could place the word “organic” on most any fertilizer product it chooses to, and some do. After all, as we become a much “greener” society, these types of words have great power in the marketplace. In these cases the word really has little meaning at all, and may only refer to the fact that there is organic — or carbon-based — content, without any verification that all of the ingredients meet specifications set out by the National Organic Program (see below). Therefore, the burden of proof and the task of sorting out these claims is on the government and the consumer.
Second — and this is where it gets even more confusing — is determining just how organic is “organic.” For example, a company could blend cow manure with water and claim it is organic and it would be. But the products produced by that fertilizer still may not qualify under the guidelines of the National Organic Program (NOP) instituted by the federal government. This is where the organization known as the Organic Materials Research Institute (OMRI) comes in. OMRI is an independent, non-profit institution which serves as the gatekeeper for products which meet the requirements of the NOP. Input products cannot be labeled “certified organic“: rather, OMRI uses the term “OMRI Listed” for products which may be used in the production of organic food and fiber, under the guidelines of the NOP. Furthermore, the term “certified organic” can only legally apply to food or fiber products.
Use of the term “organic” on fertilizers is generally not regulated. Some of the products listed by OMRI are not, in fact, organic. Due to a provision in their guidelines for becoming “OMRI Listed,” a non-organic product can be a listed product if no close, non-synthetic substitute exists.
Let’s try to summarize.
- Products that claim to be organic may or may not be.
- OMRI lists certain “raw materials” which may be used in the production of organic finished goods, but they do not technically certify the input products. All they do is say this material will not disqualify the end product from participation in the National Organic Program.
- The National Organic Program certifies producers and products, but only of finished goods, i.e., food and fiber.
- In the end, much of what is meant by the term organic is based on the reliability of the company making the claim.
If you are looking for a product that you can use with confidence in your lawn or garden, buy from a reputable dealer who sells products from reliable companies, and look for the “OMRI Listed” designation . Even at that, though, Caveat Emptor!
Stay tuned for our next blog post about the term “All Natural.” In the meantime, here are some handy links:
- OMRI – information that organic farmers, handlers, certifiers, and other members of the organic community might find useful.
- USDA Organic Roots Collection – electronic collection of historic documents published before 1942 – a time before synthetic chemicals became widely used. Find state-of-the-art information and data that is still pertinent for today’s organic and sustainable agriculture.
- HowToGoOrganic.com – The Organic Trade Association offers this resource to help cultivate the growth of organic farming.
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Posted in All Natural, Ask Monty's, General Gardening, organic, Soil Conditioning, Vegetable Gardening Tagged All Natural, Ask Monty's, Certified Organic, General Gardening, labelling, Labels, Liquid Carbon, National Organic Program, natural gardening, natural lawn care, NOP, OMRI, Organic Gardening, tomatoes, USDA
By nancyc on March 20, 2012
The Scoop on Peat Moss
“I have read from time to time that peat moss is really not considered that good of a soil conditioner, yet I also read articles that talk about it being so great. What’s the real scoop on peat moss?”
Rhonda, Mooresville, North Carolina
Rhonda:
Peat moss is considered a common soil conditioner, but not one that can stand alone. While peat moss is definitely a lightweight, natural conditioner, it is used to help loosen heavy soils and improves the soil’s ability to hold moisture. Combine it with compost, limestone, and ground wood or sawdust and you have a good combination going as a soil conditioner.
If you are not into all of that work then there is a better solution. The essence of the compost and peat moss is humus. That is the substance that makes it so effective. With Monty’s Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner we have separated this humus into its base components then cleaned it. What is left is an activated form of humic that is ready to go to work in your soil.
Nature will eventually do the same thing with your compost and peat moss, it just takes longer and requires a lot more work on your part. By applying Monty’s Liquid Carbon annually (at least) you can quickly remediate troubled soils. Plus this year, with our all-new ready to spray formula, “better just got easier!” All you have to do is attach the new container to your garden hose and apply.
Good Companion Vegetables for Tomatoes
“I’ve finally learned that I don’t need to grow a dozen tomato plants for our small family needs, often giving a lot of them away or canning way more than we really need. So this spring I will have room for other plants in my garden. Are there certain vegetables that might do better than others around tomatoes, as I still need to plant some? ”
Liam, Downers Grove, Illinois
Liam:
Carrots, lettuce, radish, onions and parsley are good companion plants for tomatoes. Did you know that basil is even known to improve tomato growth and flavor as well when planted by them? Cabbage and cauliflower are NOT good tomato “neighbors.” If you are interested in planting dill, do it on the other end of the garden.
Chives as Organic Solution in Rose Garden
“Will chives ward off aphids and keep my roses from getting black spot disease? I’ve read this in an organic magazine, but it’s the only time I’ve heard of this. I didn’t really want to plant them by my roses, because I know they spread, but I sure would like to keep my roses as healthy as possible and having chives as a backdrop wouldn’t be so bad.”
Merrill, Iowa City, Iowa
Merrill:
There are a lot of natural plant repellants out there, which is great for the organic gardener, but should not to be taken as cure-alls. As a gardener, being proactive pays off, but daily plant attention and recognizing problems from the get-go is also important. Perennial chives have been known to ward off aphids, as does peppermint and garlic.
Black spot disease is caused by water splashing up on your leaves, so be careful how you water roses. Since their roots are so shallow I always mulch around my roses, which also absorbs the splash from rains and watering, which helps control black spot. There are plenty of products on the market, some more natural than others that can be sprayed on the leaves to eradicate black spot attacks. They are all very effective, but you have to keep on top of it regardless.
The best defense is a good offense, and with roses this means healthy rose plants. Most pests and diseases are opportunistic, so if you have healthy plants, there are fewer opportunities for pests and disease. The best way to keep rose plants healthy is to feed them with Monty’s 8-16-8 Growth Formula early in the season when shoots start to show and as leaves appear, and 
then feed them with Monty’s 2-15-15 Root and Bloom once buds appear on the rose plant and through the bloom cycle. Foliar feeding should help strengthen the stems and leaves, thereby helping to eliminate any “opportunity” for a pest or disease to set in or take over.
Give Gladiolus Another Chance
“I planted Gladiolus bulbs and Sunflowers together last summer and got great Sunflowers but no Glads. Was it bad bulbs or overpowering Sunflowers?”
Liza, Wake Forest, North Carolina
Liza:
Your Sunflowers may have overpowered you Glads, perhaps shading them or sucking up all the Glads’ needed water and nutrients. Sunflowers will do that. And Glads need just as much sun as Sunflowers. Sunflowers also contain a toxin that can harm other plants, although I have not had problems with planting them myself as a border in my vegetable garden, tucked in with Black-Eyed Susans and even with Zinnias and Cannas. Give those Glads another shot this spring, away from those Sunflowers and in the full sun they love.
Marigolds as Organic Pest Control
“My grandmother always planted a border of marigolds in her vegetable garden because she said they warded off pests. I’ve never done it, but is there any truth to it? I’d hate to waste the marigolds on my garden space if it’s just to beautify my garden, as I have limited space.”
Jeannie, Galena, Illinois
Jeannie:
Sounds like Grandma knew something about “companion planting,” which is the safest, most natural way to garden organically. Marigolds are easy to grow and helps keep away aphids. And, you can dry the flowers for seeds in the fall for planting from year to year, so there’s not even a financial investment involved either. They also say marigolds will ward off thrips, tomato hornworms, squash bugs and whiteflies. They are also known to repel harmful root knot nematodes (soil dwelling microscopic white worms) that attack tomatoes, potatoes, roses, and strawberries. The root of the marigold produces a chemical that kills nematodes as they enter the soil. If a whole area is infested, at the end of the season, you can turn the marigolds under so the roots will decay in the soil and then safely plant there again the following spring. Perhaps you might want to rethink those marigolds – there’s more than meets the eye with this pretty little flowers.
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Posted in Ask Monty's, Uncategorized Tagged basil, black spot, blackspot, chives, companion plants, gladiolus, Liquid Carbon, natural repellants, organic, peat, pest control, soil conditioner, tomato
By Dennis on April 5, 2011
Earthworms. Just the sound of them can make guys happy and girls squeamish. I remember chasing the neighborhood girls through the yard with an earth worm dangling from my fingers as I threatened to throw it on them. Well, time has moved on, I no longer chase girls through the neighborhood, and I have found a greater use for earthworms (yes, even besides bait).
Earthworms serve two functions for me in my garden and flower beds.
First they are the proverbial “canary in a coal mine”. Simply by their presence they let me know that everything is okay. Even before I ship my soil off to be tested, I can be relatively certain that I have a reasonable amount of organic matter and that my pH is neither too acidic or too alkaline if i see earthworms wriggling about.
Secondly, they help me till and fertilize. The tunnels they create beneath the soil provide channels for air and water to move through the soil profile. The air is necessary for good nitrogen and CO2 exchange with the air…yes Virginia, plants can get nitrogen from the air (it is a two step process involving nitrogen fixing bacteria and nitrifying bacteria in the soil, but good aeration makes it possible).
For the most part, the tunnels are not created by simply squeezing through the soil but by them actually consuming the soil and other decaying organic matter laying in the soil. As with all living things, what they consume is partly used in their own bodies what is unused is eliminated through effluent material (casts). Earthworm Casts are high in nitrogen, phosphates, and potash. Consider this if you have just 10 earthworms in a square foot of soil you will have 800 lbs of earthworms per acre. The worms will provide you with 40 tons of castings annually which will equal 1 lb of actual N, 12 lbs of phosphorous, 28.5 lbs of potash, 36 lbs of magnesium, and 200 lbs of calcium. Earthworm castings also improve the water holding capacity of your soil, reduce erosion, and improve nutrient availability. One earthworm can digest up to 36 tons of soil per year according to the US Soil Conservation Offices.
Worms are great indicators of the overall health of your soil, especially in terms of biological activity. If you have earthworms, chances are that you also have all of the beneficial microbes and bacteria that make for healthy soil and strong plants. So how do you check for earth worms. Grab a shovel and lets go out to the garden:
Be sure the soil has warmed to at least 55 degrees, and that it is at least somewhat moist, but not soaking wet.
- Dig a hole one foot across and one foot deep. Place the soil on a tarp or piece of cardboard.
- Sift through the soil with your hands as you place it back into the hole, counting the earthworms as you go.
If you find at least ten worms, your soil is in pretty good shape. Less than that indicates that there may not be enough organic matter in your soil to support a healthy worm population, or that your soil is too acidic or alkaline.
If you do find fewer worms than what you had hoped for, how can you encourage higher populations.
1. Keep the soil evenly moist. Too much water and they will flee their burrows, too little and they will dry out and die. Evenly moist soil should feel like a wrung out sponge.
2. Add up to 3 inches of organic mulch over the surface of your garden. If you are buying it, this can get expensive. However there are affordable and free composts available, if you are willing to look.
3. Add NON-PROTEIN food scraps to your compost. things like produce trimmings, coffee grounds, and tea bags work great.
4. Be careful about the amount and the kinds of pesticides and chemicals you apply. Broad spectrum pesticides can also reduce your earthworm (and other beneficials) populations. When possible opt for natural remedies that are targeted to specific pests.
5. Use compost or manure teas for fertility. Chemical fertilizers increase the acidity and salt content of soil which repels earthworms. Monty’s offers a complete line-up of fertility products that are very low in salt and are all naturally derived products that will not effect the pH of your soil. This makes these products an ideal choice for fertilizers (without the hassle and malodorous nature of the compost teas and manure teas.)
6. Use Monty’s Liquid Carbon to create a favorable soil environment that will help create a favorable environment for all soil microbes and organic material.
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Posted in Advice, General Gardening Tagged beefits of worms to garden, earthworms, Garden, General Gardening, Liquid Carbon, monty's, Monty's 2-15-15, Monty's 4-15-12, Monty's 8-16-8, Monty's Plant Food, monty's plant food company, natural gardening, natural lawn care, Organic Gardening, worm casts, worms
By Dennis on October 4, 2010
Continue maintenance program until hard frost or freeze occurs. Meteorologicallly speaking, a hard frost is defined as temperatures at 28 degrees Fahrenheit or colder for at least four consecutive hours. Apply Monty’s Plant Food (2-15-15) to the leaves of your roses with minimal amounts of water for the soil. ( Click here to order) This product thickens the cells of the plants, and helps them retain elasticity, which may protect the canes from winter damage. The more you can do now to protect your canes through the winter and to increase the likelihood that they will begin spring growth with little if any winter damage, the more likely you are to begin the new season next spring with larger more vigorous plants with little if any pruning needed.
This is also an ideal time to remediate your soil. Monty’s Liquid Carbon, if applied to the soil of your garden’s now will have time to start working before winter.( click here to order) This is important because Monty’s Liquid Carbon works in concert with your microbial populations and those little microscopic miners go dormant in soil temperatures below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Additionally, the normal ‘heaving’ of the soil during the freeze/thaw cycle will allow Monty’s Liquid Carbon to penetrate deep into your soil profile. Finally, any Liquid Carbon that you apply now will be there, ready to work, come early spring when often it is too muddy to get much accomplished.
For those of you who experienced the deep drought and extreme heat this summer that we did around our gardens this summer, be aware. The drought most likely caused your soils to collapse as the moisture was evacuated by evaporation. This means that you will likely have to deal with compaction this next season, even if compaction is not normally an issue for you. Monty’s Liquid Carbon is a great help to gardeners fighting against compaction-related problems.
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Posted in Advice, Rose Care Calendar, Roses Tagged 2-15-15, Liquid Carbon, Monty Justice, monty's, Monty's 2-15-15, Monty's Plant Food, monty's plant food company, Roses
By Dennis on August 2, 2010
Ask Monty’s:
“I have two flower boxes that face to the north that never seems to be able to have a plant survive in them. I’ve tried impatiens, marigolds, coleus, petunias, but nothing survives. What could be the problem?”
Gilda
Linton, Indiana
Gilda:
Let’s start from the beginning. As part of my own personal spring prelude to planting, I clean and sterilize my planters every year, so I would suggest we start here. It’s just a good practice all the way around. I dip my planters in a mild bleach solution and rinse them well before I put soil and plants back in them. This is one way to just simply get off to a good start. Bear in mind also that potting mix, by definition, is sterile which means that it will have no organic matter to speak of, so even mixing in a little bit of top-soil and sand (1:1:1 ratio) can help. Adding Monty’s Liquid Carbon (4 ounces per gallon of water, applied to the soil until moist, not saturated), once the sand and soil are there can help the organic matter flourish.
You may be putting too many plants in one planter, so overcrowding could be the problem. If these are north facing planters you may be putting plants in them that prefer sun, such as the marigolds, coleus and petunias you mentioned. Your impatiens should be fine, as well as begonias, asparagus ferns and pansies. You may even want to try a few herbs in these boxes for something a little different and useful in the kitchen, such as mint, pineapple sage, lavender, chamomile and even basil. There are different variations of herbs that will thrive in shaded areas, so read the labels carefully before you buy these particular plants or seeds.
Ask Monty’s:
“My yard is too small to consider an actual garden, so I’d like to do some container gardening next year. What vegetables thrives the best in containers?”
Dorinda,
Savanna, Illinois
Dorinda:
Carrots, lettuce, onions and radishes will do well for you, and tomatoes and peppers for sure. With some staking or trellis implementation, cucumbers, squash, pole beans and eggplant will do terrific as well. Broccoli and kale are also attractive container plants too.
Don’t forget, also, that square foot gardening is a great option for those with limited space. You can get more information about square foot gardening on this site, from your local county extension office, or by conducting a web search. Square foot gardening is a technique that took root (pardon the pun) in third-world countries where space and water were both concerns. It requires a much smaller footprint, makes a smaller impact on the environment, makes the most of available resources, is easier to tend, and still produces excellent results if managed well.
Ask Monty’s:
“I put my tomato plants in very early this year hoping to get a jump on their production as they are my favorite vegetable and they seem to take so long to grow. However, my plants are not doing any better than any of my neighbors who were probably three weeks behind me in planting. As a matter of fact, mine even seemed like they stopped growing. Any insight on why I’m not harvesting early this year?”
Shay,
Springhill, Louisiana
Shay:
I know it’s hard to be patient when it comes to some of our favorite vegetables and the thoughts of biting into the first harvest. Spring weather can be a real fooler to the anxious gardener with the warm sun breaking through, but the bottom line is that if the soil is still cool when you put your plants in it will actually slow plant growth. The soil must be warm for best results when it comes to gardening, so waiting the extra few weeks to plant will help your plants get off to a better start. You might want to consider cold frames next year if you want to put your plants in early and help warm the plant and the soil around them. You should have better results then.
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Posted in Advice, Ask Monty's, Flower Gardening, General Gardening, Vegetable Gardening Tagged container gardening, flower boxes, Garden, General Gardening, Liquid Carbon, Monty's Plant Food, monty's plant food company, tomatoes
By Dennis on July 27, 2010
Ask Monty’s:
“My cannas leaves seem to be having a problem opening and I’ve noticed that some of them have a rather sticky kind of stringy substance across them. Not all the leaves are this way as some of the plants in other parts of my yard are looking very good, while others are not. What could be causing this?”
Don and June
Buckhannon, West Virginia
Don and June:
The leaf roller is about the only thing that bothers cannas. It’s actually a caterpillar that comes from the skipper moth and prefers to lay her eggs inside young cannas leaves, sewing them shut with that “stringy substance” to protect their larvae. Once they hatch they will then start feeding on the actual cannas leaves. You’ll want to gently unfold those young leaves where you can see they are being hindered and you’ll find the pests inside. When I can, I flip them the pests off into the yard where a bird can pick them up for a snack, but if you have a lot of cannas you’ll want to find an insecticide specifically for worm or caterpillars eradication. If you have leaves that are heavily damaged, remove them and throw in the garbage, not in your compost pile.
Another note: After the frost completely kills the plants, remove all the foliage and bag and dispose of them separately so you don’t risk the chance of them over wintering and affecting next year’s plants. This is particularly important in southern zones where cannas are perennials, as opposed to annuals in the northern climates.
Ask Monty’s:
“Every year I am amazed that my clematis comes up. They’re never spectacular, but they do put forth the effort to flower. I know they like their “heads in the sun and their feet in the shade” and I have them planted appropriately so. My problem is that this summer – mid July – the leaves are already starting to turn brown. Isn’t it a little early for that?
Gayle
Brilliion, Wisconsin
Gayle:
Browning of the leaves is pretty normal particularly after the heat of the summer and once the plant is done blooming. Not too nice to look at, but you can safely prune away the dead leaves and continue to keep the plant well watered and well mulched to keep in the moisture. If the plants are just beginning to brown, and you are set on reviving them, try applying Monty’s Liquid Carbon to the soil to improve moisture flow into the root zone and to reduce compaction which will allow the roots to spread out and access more moisture and nutrients. Also start a foliar program with Monty’s 2-15-15.
If you follow the advice here on our blog you may be wondering why I am recommending the 2-15-15 formula during a ‘growth time’ in the plant’s development cycle. The reason is your plants are showing signs of stress from heat and drought. The last thing we want to do is to encourage MORE top-growth when the plant can’t support what it has now. So by applying the 2-15-15 formula you are signaling the plant to put its energy into developing roots; kinda babying it until it recovers. The plant is also about done for the season, so let’s help it store energy to get through the winter ahead, a high dose of nitrogen right now could keep it from entering dormancy normally and expose the plant to more winter-kill.
If the brown leaves or wilt extends to the actual growing tip and the vine itself becomes brittle or turns almost black, the vine is probably dead as well. Prune the vine down to the closest living branch area so all the dead material is done away with. Again, if you keep the plant well watered and fed you may continue to see new growth as the summer progresses.
Ask Monty’s:
“I have heard that adding salt to your asparagus beds is supposed to help them. I have a beautiful wild asparagus bed and would sure like to maintain it as best as I can. Is there any truth to the salt advice? Is it just table salt?”
Roland
Crossgate, Kentucky
Roland:
Some people will add sodium chloride rock salt (NaCI) to their asparagus beds after they are at least a year old. It sounds like your wild bed is already well established – so you can do this. Apply about two and half pounds per 100 feet either before the spears actually appear in the spring or around July 4 when you’ve already pretty well harvested your crop. The salt prevents crown and root rot diseases caused by fusarium fungus and actual improves the plants overall growth. Do not use iodized salt (your common table salt) or rock salt made of calcium chloride (CaCI). Pickling salt is fine too.
If the thought of adding salt to your plants just sounds to chancey, you may consider using Monty’s Liquid Carbon in the spring and fall. Crown rot and fusarium are what we like to call ‘wet feet’ diseases. That is, they tend to move in when the roots of the plants are kept excessively moist, either from a wet spring or from over watering. In Kentucky, most gardeners deal with fairly heavy clay soils, so the moisture you receive tends to hang around. By applying Monty’s Liquid Carbon, you can change the structure of these soils so that they allow the moisture to move more freely through the soil profile which results in better drainage. Once your drainage situation is under control you will likely see a marked decrease in many of these ‘wet feet’ diseases.
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Posted in Advice, Ask Monty's, Flower Gardening, General Gardening, Vegetable Gardening Tagged 2-15-15, Ask Monty's, Cannas, Clematis, compost, Garden, General Gardening, Leaf Roller, Liquid Carbon, Monty's 2-15-15, Monty's Plant Food, monty's plant food company, mulch, natural gardening
