Ask Monty’s – “OMRI Listed” versus “Certified Organic” labeling

By nancyc on June 9, 2012

What is the difference between plant food or fertilizer that is “OMRI Listed” and “certified organic?”  Who certifies these organic products?

Rick, Eagle Mountain, Utah

Rick:
This can be confusing and maybe even redundant, but the terminology and two endorsements actually work together and maybe even simultaneously.

First, the term “certified organic” can only legally apply to food and fiber products, and not to fertilizers or plant food.  Second, as mentioned in an earlier post, fertilizer companies can use the term “organic” to refer to organic — or carbon-based — content, without any verification that any or all of the ingredients meet specifications set out by the National Organic Program to be listed by OMRI (see below).

The USDA has established the guidelines to meet “organic certification,” which ensures that the end product — food or fiber — has conformed to their strict uniform standards, which are verified by independent state or private organizations. The certifications include:

  • Inspections of the processing facilities
  • Detailed record keeping, and
  • Periodic testing to ensure that growers and handlers are meeting the standards which have been set.

OMRI - Organic Materials Review InstituteThe Organic Materials Review Institute (OMRI) provides organic certifiers, growers and manufacturers and suppliers a listing of input products for use in the production, handling and processing of goods which will comply with the National Organic Program.  One example of an input product is the fertilizer used in growing a crop.  It is not the fertilizer that can be certified organic, only the food or fiber produced with the fertilizer than can ultimately be certified (by the NOP). The OMRI listing generally reads, “OMRI listed for use in organic production,” and should be accompanied by the OMRI logo.  Again, OMRI does not certify food or fiber (or fertilizers) as organic: OMRI works with the USDA in complying with their standards.

Monty’s is proud to have our soil conditioners OMRI listed.  For those seeking to improve the condition of their soil while being in compliance with the National Organic Program, but without the labor-intensive, and often expensive, nature of other options, Monty’s Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner is a terrific product.

For additional insights on labeling, please visit our blog posts from June 6 and June 8, or visit these handy websites:

  • OMRI – information that organic farmers, handlers, certifiers, and other members of the organic community might find useful.

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Ask Monty’s – Labels that read “All Natural”

By nancyc on June 8, 2012

In our last post we covered the plant food and fertilizer labeling terms “Organic” and “OMRI Listed.” In our next post we’ll cover the term “Certified Organic.”

Today, we’ll address the moniker “All Natural,” for which there is no regulation.

There is a growing belief as society becomes greener that natural is always better – better for individual health and for the environment. For this reason, many companies use that term to entice you into buying their product.

Using the term “all natural” is not federally regulated and is used by companies as a marketing tool. Just how “natural” a product is and how beneficial it will be is largely determined by the company itself.  Rather than muddying the waters further let me explain what Monty’s means when we use the term.

Some of our products, like our Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner, are OMRI listed for use in organic production.  Some, like our fertility products, are not. However, we can tell you, in full confidence, that our plant food products are naturally-sourced and derived.

How important that distinction is to you will be based on your objectives.  For example, if you are hoping to sell your vegetables in a local market as an organic product, then you could definitely use our Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioners but we could not recommend our plant foods to you for that purpose.

However, if you are simply looking for a product with superior performance and that is not harmful to you, your family and animals, or the environment, then you can use our naturally-derived plant food products with confidence.

I hope this helps. I know it can be a bit overwhelming. For more assurance and to help you purchase with confidence I would encourage you to develop a relationship with an independent garden center retailer so they can help guide you to products — like Monty’s Plant and Soil Products — that will help you achieve your goals.

Listed below are some handy links to OMRI, USDA and organic growing websites.  Also, refer to our post from June 6, for information about the terms “organic” and “OMRI listed.” And stay tuned for our next post about the term “certified organic.”

  • OMRI – information that organic farmers, handlers, certifiers, and other members of the organic community might find useful.

  • USDA Organic Roots Collection – electronic collection of historic documents published before 1942 – a time before synthetic chemicals became widely used.  Find state-of-the-art information and data that is still pertinent for today’s organic and sustainable agriculture.

  • HowToGoOrganic.com – The Organic Trade Association offers this resource to help cultivate the growth of organic farming.

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Ask Monty’s – “Organic” versus “All Natural” labels

By nancyc on June 6, 2012

What is the difference between plant food or fertilizer labels that read “Organic SoilOrganic” and “All Natural?”
Derek, Calera, Alabama

Derek:
That is a good question and one that can be a bit confusing, so I’m going to address “Organic” in this post, “All Natural” in the next posting and “Certified Organic” in yet a third blog post.  Let’s look at “organic” first. It should be understood, as your question implies that there is definitely a difference between “all natural” and “organic” when it comes to plant food or fertilizers – and especially food products.  The terms are not interchangeable.

Organic fertilizers come from all-natural sources such as selected animal manures, mined rock powders, blood meal, feather meal, cottonseed meal, alfalfa meal, bone meal, fish extracts and seaweed by-products.  Simply put, organic fertilizers are derived from animal or vegetable matter.  Beyond that simple definition, though, things get a bit confusing.

The federal government has attempted to implement regulations on what it means to be “organic,” primarily with regard to the production of food and fiber.  A fertilizer company could place the word “organic” on most any fertilizer product it chooses to, and some do. After all, as we become a much “greener” society, these types of words have great power in the marketplace. In these cases the word really has little meaning at all, and may only refer to the fact that there is organic — or carbon-based — content, without any verification that all of the ingredients meet specifications set out by the National Organic Program (see below).  Therefore, the burden of proof and the task of sorting out these claims is on the government and the consumer.

Second — and this is where it gets even more confusing — is determining just how organic is “organic.”  For example, a company could blend cow manure with water and claim it is organic and it would be.  But the products produced by that fertilizer still may not qualify under the guidelines of the National Organic Program (NOP) instituted by the federal government.  This is where the organization known as the Organic Materials Research Institute (OMRI) OMRI - Organic Materials Review Institutecomes in.  OMRI is an independent, non-profit institution which serves as the gatekeeper for products which meet the requirements of the NOP.  Input products cannot be labeled “certified organic“: rather, OMRI uses the term “OMRI Listed” for products which may be used in the production of organic food and fiber, under the guidelines of the NOP. Furthermore, the term “certified organic” can only legally apply to food or fiber products.

Use of the term “organic” on fertilizers is generally not regulated. Some of the products listed by OMRI are not, in fact, organic.  Due to a provision in their guidelines for becoming “OMRI Listed,” a non-organic product can be a listed product if no close, non-synthetic substitute exists.

Let’s try to summarize.

  • Products that claim to be organic may or may not be.
  • OMRI lists certain “raw materials” which may be used in the production of organic finished goods, but they do not technically certify the input products.  All they do is say this material will not disqualify the end product from participation in the National Organic Program.
  • The National Organic Program certifies producers and products, but only of finished goods, i.e., food and fiber.
  • In the end, much of what is meant by the term organic is based on the reliability of the company making the claim.

If you are looking for a product that you can use with confidence in your lawn or garden, buy from a reputable dealer who sells products from reliable companies, and look for the “OMRI Listed” designation . Even at that, though, Caveat Emptor!

Stay tuned for our next blog post about the term “All Natural.”  In the meantime, here are some handy links:

  • OMRI – information that organic farmers, handlers, certifiers, and other members of the organic community might find useful.

  • USDA Organic Roots Collection – electronic collection of historic documents published before 1942 – a time before synthetic chemicals became widely used.  Find state-of-the-art information and data that is still pertinent for today’s organic and sustainable agriculture.

  • HowToGoOrganic.com – The Organic Trade Association offers this resource to help cultivate the growth of organic farming.

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Ask Monty’s 7/11/11: Coneflowers, Turnips, and Buggered by Broccoli Plants

By Dennis on July 11, 2011

Ask Monty’s: “I planted an awesome hosta bed under my old oak trees in a section of my yard and then dropped in some coneflowers behind them to add some color and height.  The first year everything was pretty well on their way to settling in and growing well.  The second year the coneflowers did okay, but this third year the hostas were outstanding and the coneflowers appeared to have all died, except for one lonely clump trying to hang on.  What happened here? 

Chevy – Topeka, Kansas

Chevy: You sort of lucked out getting those coneflowers to bloom at all.  The fact that your hostas are doing so well tells me the area is quite shaded –a hosta environment that they thrive in.  Coneflowers are a true wildflower and grow best in full sunny, well drained soil.  Your coneflowers are sun lovers and shade is not the place for them.

Ask Monty’s:  “I didn’t get around to planting my turnips this spring and was wondering if it’s too late to plant them now in July?”

Deann – Wiota, Wisconsin

Deann:  The one nice thing about turnips is that about the time other vegetables in your garden are winding down, turnips are turning out tasty tops and yummy meaty bulbs.  While often planted in the spring, if you want a winter crop they are best sowed in July or early August.  Late plantings are also less susceptible to turnip root maggot damage too.  If you decided to plant both a spring and summer turnip patch next year, they do make good companions for onions and peas in the garden, so keep that in mind.  But back to your question – plant those turnips now!

  Ask Monty’s: “I planted broccoli from seeds this year and it seemed to take forever for anything to come up.  The seeds were so small it was impossible to keep from getting them too thick in the furrows.  It was a nightmare and now they’ve all grown up and I’ve started pulling them out so there is more room between them to develop.  I don’t think I’ll ever plant them again?”

Stephanie – Nappanee, Indiana 

Stephanie: Don’t give up on your broccoli endeavors yet!  Wait until you taste that first fresh head and realize how much your effort paid off.  But yes, planting by seed directly into the ground is a test of patience for those little, bitty seeds like radishes, carrots and celery as well to name a few.  If a person has the room, sowing the seeds inside in early spring in trays gives you a major head start and gives the little plants a good head start after you’ve weeded out the ones that got too close together.  You can also buy seed strips that have the seeds on a biodegradable material and, pre-spaced that you just lay down in the furrow, cover with dirt and wait for them to come up. They’re a little pricey, but definitely easier. Since I only plant for small family usage, I do buy the plants already started in the spring from my local greenhouse.  They come in four or six packs with a good head start, so putting them directly in the soil where they need to be is a lot less stressful for me. I’m not much for seed starting either, but have to have that broccoli in my garden! 

One last note on broccoli, don’t expect to see them with the large softball sized heads that you see in the grocery store.  Those are grown by farmers and usually with a volume of chemicals and fertilizers that you, as a home gardener, would neither want, need, afford, or be able to attain.  The heads will be smaller, but sweeter and, overall, better than their mass produced-counterparts. Plant your heads plants in the ground about two per week until you’ve planted the deisred number or have filled your row.  By doing this you will extend your growing season and have fresh-from-the-garden broccoli for several weeks.  If doing that requires too much patience, then you can plant them all at once, just be prepared to preserve them.  Borccoli do well in the freezer if they are par-boiled for about 2 minutes, run under cool water, dried as well as possible then cut into florets and frozen in zip-top baggies.

Oh, and don’t forget, like the turnips and other veggies metnioned above…broccoli and cauliflower can start going in the ground in the last third of July in the far Northern US through late August in the Deep South (check with local county agents for exact timing) for wonderful fresh fall veg crops.

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Ask Monty’s 7/6/11: Veggies for Novices, Something Dandy about Dandelions, and Swiss Chard

By Dennis on July 6, 2011

Ask Monty’s: “People make dandelion wine out of the weed’s flowers, but an old-timer recently told me you can eat the leaves too. Is this true?”

Heidi
Boalsburg, Pennsylvania

Heidi:Yes, the entire dandelion is edible despite its bad rap as a common yard weed. It’s an acquired taste and most recently I discovered a recipe in a copy of an old Mother Earth News magazine for dandelion greens sautéed in olive oil and molasses and served over a baked potato. The flower is also used as an edible garnish in many upper end restaurants, despite it’s number one popularity as a wine ingredient.

Ask Monty’s: “What is Swiss Chard exactly? Is it easy to grow? I’ve been told it tastes a lot like spinach, but it doesn’t look like it.”

Susan
Caney, Kansas

Susan: Swiss Chard is the forerunner of beets and a close cousin to spinach. In the kitchen, cooked chard can stand in for spinach in any recipe, while the crisp ribs of the plant can be steamed or grilled like asparagus. The beauty of chard as a garden plant is that chard tolerates light frost as well as the heat of summer. There are three types of chard I would recommend you take a closer look at. White-stemmed chard out performs their more colorful counterparts in terms of productivity and resistance. Bright colored varieties are the top of the line edible ornamentals when it comes to vegetables, but perpetual varieties have thinner stems and smaller, smoother leaves than large varieties, but they taste more like spinach than the other varieties. With perpetual varieties the more leaves you pick, the more new ones emerge from the crowns, thus reflected in their name.

Ask Monty’s: “If you had to name the top five easiest vegetables to grow, what would they be? I’m a new gardener, so I am going to need some instant gratification to keep my confidence level up. What vegetables do you think make the best use of time and garden space?”

Ronald
Golden, Colorado

Ronald:  Gardening is always an exploration of trial and error because everyone’s garden habits, patience levels and environments are different, so please keep that in mind. It’s a very rewarding hobby, great contribution to your grocery bill and creates an enormous amount of satisfaction when you take that first bite out of that garden fresh tomato, green bean or squash.

That said, regarding your questions there has been a lot of research done on these particular subjects and they do vary from region to region. Research tells me radishes, lettuce, bush snap beans, rhubarb and cherry tomatoes are listed as the top five. For me, radishes and lettuce took a few tries before I finally got it right, so my picks would be bush snap beans, rhubarb, cherry tomatoes, asparagus and green peppers. Squash is pretty easy too, but does take up a lot of room. I even slip my green pepper and broccoli into my flower beds as nice green back drops to other plants and utilize the space that way.

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Ask Monty’s for 6/13/11: Broccoli, Calla Lillies, Roses

By Dennis on June 13, 2011

Ask Monty’s:

“I’ve planted broccoli for the first time this summer.  How do I know when it can be picked?”  

Samantha  – Apple Valley, Minnesota

Samantha:

Broccoli can be eaten at a couple of different growth stages.  Some people eat the unopened flower buds.  As the weather gets warmer you’ll want to pick it before the flower heads bloom.  So harvest the buds when they are about the size of a match head.  Samantha, one mistake common among home growers, especially first timers, is that you keep waiting for the heads to get to the size of those in the super market. Don’t expect your home grown broccoli to get the size of supermarket broccoli heads, as their growing environments are much more controlled to achieve the size they get. What they lack in size, though, they will make up for in flavor and nutritional value.  Using Monty’s 8-16-8 will help.

Ask Monty’s:

“I plant roses because I love how they look and also because of their smell and the diversity of smells they provide.  Bleeding hearts are also quite fragrant.  Are there other more fragrant flowers to consider?  I know all have their own degree of fragrance, but I’m looking for strong smelling flowers to entice the senses when you walk in my garden.”

Rose – Knierim, Iowa 

Rose:

Brugmansia, or “Angel Trumpet” comes to mind immediately for year round outdoor growing in zones 8-11, although in your climate you’ll have to make it a patio plant that you can take indoors in the winter.  The same is with a Gardenia, “Passion Flower,” jasmine, nicotinia (flowering tobacco) or lemon and limes.  Sweet Alyssum, Moonflower and 4 O’clocks are also great smelling plants.  Unfortunately, none of these plants are perennials for your Iowa climate, but they can be grown in your greenhouse or as patio plants that can all be moved inside over the winter.  All have overwhelming fragrant qualities. Honeysuckle and magnolias are also fragrant favorites particularly in the south. 

O, and since you asked about roses, don’t forget to check out the latest videos on roses from our founder and noted rosarian Monty Justice.  You can find them on youtube, or here.  You can also check out our rose care calendar to make sure you are getting the most output from your roses.

Ask Monty’s:

“My Calla Lily never blooms.  I thought these plants required low maintenance and even bloomed in diffused lighting conditions.  What am I doing wrong?” 

Blaine -Cold Springs, Nevada 

Blaine:

There are a couple of reasons that come to mind as to why your Calla Lily is not blooming.  Although they really are low maintenance, they do prefer bright indirect sunlight, with morning and late afternoon light as their preference.  So if you have them in any less they simply aren’t getting enough light.  If you are using a fertilizer, make sure it is low in nitrogen, which encourages green, leafy growth.  Too much nitrogen will overpower the phosphate a plant needs to make blooms. Monty’s 2-15-15 is a great fertilizer to use if you are looking to encourage more, and longer lasting, bloom. Read more, here. Another reason a Calla Lily will not bloom is if the bulbs are simply getting too old.

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Ask Monty’s 5/27/11: Asparagus, Crickets, and Calla Lillies

By Dennis on May 26, 2011

Ask Monty’s: “How do you know when to harvest asparagus and leaf lettuce, spring’s earliest producers?  I never have been quite sure.” 

Susan – Joplin, Missouri  

Susan: You can usually begin harvesting your asparagus spears when they are 6-8 inches in length.  Snap them off at ground level when picking them.  Stop harvesting them about 4-6 weeks after the first initial harvest so the plants can produce foliage and food for themselves. Once the asparagus emerge you can spray with Monty’s 8-16-8 for vigorous growth, additionally toward the end of the season, use Monty’s 2-15-15 to help them store energy in the roots so that they can propagate and emerge healthy next season.

Leaf lettuce is best picked when the outer leaves have reached about 4 inches in height.  Let the younger, inner leaves to grow further which will allow you to have lettuce through most of the summer if you pick it right and keep it well watered.  Don’t forget to spray it at least once a week with Monty’s 8-16-8.  This will stimulate vigorous growth.  As an additional benefit, if you are one who chosses to use pesticides or herbicides, they can easily be mixed with Monty’s products for no-fuss, one step application.

Ask Monty’s: “In early spring, if I don’t watch my garden or flower beds closely, young grasshoppers and even crickets almost strip my young plants beyond repair.  I have been using a regular insecticide on them, but is there an organic approach to repelling them?  It’s a reoccurring problem for me.” 

Dexter – Granite Falls, Washington 

Dexter: These little devils can indeed strip crops incredibly fast.  Grasshoppers alone are responsible for consuming 25% of the available foliage in the western half of the U.S. each year!  There is an organic product on the market that literally infects grasshoppers with a naturally occurring disease that is much like a bad case of grasshopper flu.  The disease is called Nosema locustae and it infects over 90 species of grasshoppers and crickets.  The best part is that pets, people, plants and other insects are not affected by it.  You can find this product in gardening catalogs and garden centers and it is sold as Semasporte Bait or NoLo Bait.  It has a very short shelf life of only about eight weeks, so if you store it in the refrigerator it will keep up to five months, so buy only what you need.  You can also talk to your local independent garden center, they may have some insecticidal soaps that will do the tricks.  A mild solution of JOY dish soap sprayed on the foliage helps with many insects, it may help with your crickets and hoppers as well.

One last thought,  evidence indicates that Monty’s foliar fertility products will elevate brix levels (the measure of sugar in a plant).  Anecdotal evidence seems to indicate that elevated brix levels may help deter insects.  We also know that insects tend to be opportunistic.  That is, they tend to prey on plants that are weak or stressed. Think of them like a cheetah, they cull the weak out of the herd and in an odd way by doing so they are protecting the strength of the overall herd of antelope. So one way to address the insect problem is to make sure your plants are the healthiest in the neighborhood, this will tend to cause the insects to move on to more susceptible prey. They key to plant health can be summarized in three words. Fertility, Fertility, Fertility.

Ask Monty’s: “I have a love/hate relationship with my Calla Lily.  Sometimes it looks fabulous and other times I just about kill it.  It seems like when it starts blooming, and I fertilize it, it takes an immediate turn for the worse.  I do not understand this.  Am I giving it too much, although I follow the fertilizer instructions to the tee?”

Tessa -Portland, Oregon

 Tessa: You should never feed a Calla Lily when it is in bloom, which is the opposite of most plants, I know.  A good quality, healthy Calla Lily just simply doesn’t need it.  If you just can’t resist, go with a low nitrogen, high phosphorous, high potassium fertilizer.  this will decrease the nitrogen available for growth and increase those nutrients needed to support bloom and root health.  We recommended Monty’s 2-15-15.

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Ask Monty’s 4/15/11: African Violets, Hydrangeas, and Selecting the Right Grass for your Lawn.

By Dennis on April 15, 2011

Ask Monty’s:

“I have a huge, beautiful African Violet that is very healthy.  How can I grow new plants from it?”

Irene
Forest Lake, Minnesota

 Irene:

It’s as simple as removing a healthy leaf with the stem attached and burying the stem in moist, well drained potting soil, leaving just the flattened round leafy blade above the surface.  Water it thoroughly and put it in a warm, bright location.  I even put the container in an open, clear plastic bag to increase the humidity level around the cutting to further encourage the stem growing roots.  I used to have an old neighbor lady with quite a green thumb who had incredible luck with just putting the leaf stem in a glass of water with the leaf hanging over the lip of the glass.  Once the stem started sprouting roots she’d then stick it in a small pot of potting soil and off they’d go!

A more aggressive approach would be division by carefully splitting apart the plant itself between the plant’s crowns, keeping the roots intact and then replanting them into individual pots.  Be prepared to see your plants suffer a little shock for awhile, but with good care they’ll snap back.

Don’t forget to either root dip your cuttings and/or water them in with Monty’s 4-15-12.  All you need is a weak solution (one-two drops per cup of water).  This will stimulate root development and almost completely eliminate transplant shock. (See more detailed information here)  After the plant has rooted well, you can start feeding with Monty’s 8-16-8, 4-15-12, or 2-15-15 – depending on the current growth stage of your plant.  One note for AFRICAN VIOLETS, the leaf surface and flowers are very susceptible to spotting. For that reason African Violets are one of the few plants we DO NOT RECOMMEND using Monty’s products as a foliar application.  Instead you can either wick feed or feed through the roots by mixing 1-2 drops per cup of water and pouring on the soil when you water. Check out our PDF on the care of African Violets, here.

 Ask Monty’s:

“I transplanted hydrangeas from pots into my flower beds two springs ago but I haven’t seen them bloom yet in their new home.  Is there any hope of their blooming this year or did I waste my time and energy?”

 Gwen
Owensburg, Indiana

 Gwen:

Patience is the key here and I think you have proven that.  Plants moved from containers to larger bedding areas will spend the first couple of seasons putting down roots and getting comfortable in their new environment instead of blooming.  Once established and no longer needing the excess energy to stabilize their root system, they will shift into a flowering mode.  Make sure you’re not using a fertilizer with excessive nitrogen, which can also retard their natural flowering attributes.

To explain this, let’s think like a plant for a minute. The presence of N tells a plant it is time to grow. So you can end up with a plant that has a lot of showy foliage and can become quite large, but never blooms. This results in what gardeners refer to as a ‘leggy’ plant.  This can also cause more than just aesthetic problems; the excess growth can lead to damage during heavy winds.  Your plants have natural cycles: germination, growth, reproductive, and dormancy. It needs to go through each of these phases to maintain good overall health.  By understanding this and allowing the plant to go through its natural ebb and flow you will get the best results.  That is why Monty’s Fertility products come in three “flavors”; each one is designed for specific needs of the plant during each one of these stages of development.  This season, try using Monty’s 2-15-15 at least once a week on the foliage.  I think you will be amazed by the results.  Check out our PDF on Hydrangeas, here.

 Ask Monty’s:

“There are so many different types of grass on the market.  How can you even begin to know what to choose for your lawn?”

 Joel
Mt. Airy, North Carolina

 Joel:

There are a lot of variables to consider when choosing the right grass for your lawn, and the top one evolves around where you live.  If you are newly landscaping or starting from scratch, it’s always best to drive around your area and see what lawns have the look you’re after and make note of it.  Your local nursery, a good landscaping company or your local extension office are going to be excellent, professional reference points for you.  Many larger towns and cities even have arboretums that not only feature plant variety, but label them for guests and lawn grasses are often incorporated into their design. 

Keep in mind though, if you want your lawn to look like a golf course, it comes with a price and a great deal of maintenance.  Grass grows best in the spring and the fall when it is cool, so keep that in mind when you’re looking at other lawns too.  Cool-season grasses are hardy enough to survive freezing winters and hot summers and include varieties such as fine fescues, perennial ryegrass and bluegrass.  Warm-season grasses are your tropical climate lovers and include St. Augustine, Zoysia, Bermuda grass and centipede grass.  There are also transition-zone grasses for hot summer climates and chilly winters that blend both your cool-season and warm-season grasses, but types a little more versatile include tall fescue or buffalo grass.

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Ask Monty’s 4/11/11: Successful Petunias, Organic Lining for Terracotta Pots, and Fungus on Redbuds

By Dennis on April 11, 2011

Ask Monty’s:

“Every year I plant petunias and they never seem to do more than just make it through the summer.  How can you fail at growing petunias?”

Alyce
Detroit, Michigan

Alyce:

Annuals need lots of water with being outside and braving the elements.  Petunias love the sun and appreciate a little shade, but watering them daily is what they need the most.  They should also be routinely deadheaded to keep them lush and healthy looking.  By doing it before they get leggy, they seem to respond better.  Don’t forget a little fertilizer every couple of weeks or so too.  Make your petunias part of your daily garden maintenance walk and you’ll get much better results.

 Ask Monty’s:

“You often talk about lining clay and porous pots with plastic bags to retain moisture for outside potted plants.  Do you think newspapers would work too?”

Greg, Pete and Scott
Morton, Washington

Greg, Pete and Scott:

Excellent, more natural idea gentlemen!  Newspapers may dry out a little faster than plastic, but will definitely serve the same purpose.  When cleaning your pots out in the fall you can dump everything into your compost pile and not have to worry about taking the plastic bags out too.  And, your newspaper liners may well be on their way to decomposing by that time.  Make sure you’re using the actual newspaper and not those colored enameled sheets that are often inserted into newspapers for advertising and such. They do not break down the same way newspapers do.

Ask Monty’s:

“There is a greenish, flakey growth showing up on my redbud trees.  What could it be and how do I get rid of it?”

Iris
Gladston, New Jersey

Iris:

There is a type of combination of fungus and algae that physically intertwines to become an entirely new growth called lichen.  It can also grow on stones or shrubs too.  It’s a very primitive plant species, absorbing water and nutrients from the air.  There is nothing harmful about it as they are not a parasite and do not cause disease, so don’t worry about it being part of your redbud tree.

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Ask Monty’s 4/3/11: Nettles, Onions, and Burrs, Oh My!

By Dennis on April 4, 2011

Weeds are everywhere this time of year.  They are in your lawn and obviously on your mind as our mailbag has been full of questions about them.  This week our Ask Monty’s segment is dedicate to all of those pesky, unwanted invasive species.

First, just for information’s sake.  There is no scientific definition or classification of a weed.  A weed, by definition, is any unwanted plant.  Therefore, any plant, even a rose or tulip can be a weed if it is growing in an area where you do not want it to be.  When commercial gardening stores and manufacturers talk of weeds they are generally speaking collectively about a group of grasses and plants that are commonly thought undesirable.  For example, consider dandelions.  They are the bane of my existence.  However, in the culinary world, people like the bitter, peppery flavor of dandelion greens in salads.  So, even though I cannot imagine it, some people actually cultivate them and there are even farmers who raise them as a cash crop!

All weeds serve a purpose, it is only when they violate our plans and living spaces that they become problems. So use care in eradicating all of them. They may be providing you with benefits that you are not aware of or could be helping to tell you a story about the condition of your soil. Listen to them, work with them when you can.

That said, I know how frustrating they can be and fight the good fight against some of them myself.  Here are some questions and answers that have been on your minds lately.  Oh, and if you have additional questions either post them in the comments section or e-mail me at pallan@montysplantfood.com .

Ask Monty’s:

“We recently bought 50 wooded acres in the country as sort of a place to getaway on the weekends.  It’s a great camping spot, but when I let our dogs out to run they came back covered in burrs!  I have never seen so many of them.  Is there a way to get rid of them?”

 Gayleen
American Fork, Utah

 Gayleen:

Meet the cocklebur, one of the most annoying, evasive weeds found throughout the entire United States except in Alaska.  Their most notable characteristic is their abundance of spiney burrs that have hook-tipped spines that easily attach themselves to clothing, fur or passing, happy dogs playing.  Often referred to as “hitchhikers,” that’s how they seem to spread so easily by attaching themselves to anything that moves.

However, these horrible plants do have to have the right growing conditions to thrive in areas that are washed out, wetlands, disturbed areas, drainage channels, or in unattended fields.

In addition, their seeds and seedlings are also poisonous.  Animals rarely eat them unless they get in their grazing paths, but children and young people have been made seriously ill and have even died from eating the seeds, which both look and taste like sunflower seeds.

The best way to get rid of these weeds is to apply weed killer in the fall and spring.  Your local farm store, extension service or larger nurseries will be able to advise you on what is the most aggressive product to use.

One of the things to try this season if you are looking for a total kill with a ‘round-up’ like product containing glyphosate is adding Monty’s NanoBoost.  It is an herbicide additive that dramatically improves the efficiency and kill rate of glyphosate and 2,4-D based herbicides.  This product is only available from our agricultural dealers at this point, but with Southern States Co-ops now on board it should be fairly easy to find in the Eastern third of the country. Or you can call toll free and order it direct.  Read more about NanoBoost, here.  Then call us at 800-978-6342 to order NanoBoost.

Ask Monty’s:

“Last summer I noticed I had a lot of strange, thick-leafed patches of grass in my lawn.  A friend told me that it looked like wild onion.  Curious of course, and because it was obviously unsightly and out of place on the lawn, I dug one up to discover it had bulbs like an onion.  Am I going to see more of this in the spring?  If so, how do I get rid of it?  Is it poisonous, as I have pets and I’m afraid my cat may mistake it for catnip?”

Riza
Nicholasville, Kentucky

 Riza:

Wild Onions are harmless weeds, but they do stick up boldly out of a manicured lawn, looking very similar to an onion plant.  They are found all over the world and grow wildly, although some species are treated as culinary delicacies.  Nonetheless, having them come up in unwanted areas does not redeem their weed qualities.  They grow in the fall to early winter and can be controlled through post-emergent broadleaf weed killer on individual plants.

 Ask Monty’s:

“I have a patch of stinging nettles sprouting up in the corner of my yard, an area that I just haven’t had the time to maintain as well as I should.  What’s the easiest way to get rid of these?  They aren’t bothering anything, but I think I should get rid of it.”

 Carly
Abbeville, South Carolina

 Carly:

Stinging nettles and common nettles are one and the same: vicious weeds that are not pleasant to come in contact with no matter what.  It’s a perennial like most weeds, so unless you get rid of it soon, it will spread and become an even bigger problem year after year with its finger-like roots.  It’s hard to believe that some people will harvest it and cook it for its nutritional value.  

When eradicating this weed you can either go after it with an all-over weed killer in the winter or early spring or manually remove them by cutting them to the ground with a hedge trimmer and then digging up their roots.  Once you get rid of the roots though spray a herbicide over the area for extra measure.

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