Perfecting your soil this fall

By nancyc on October 4, 2012

Whether you’re an avid vegetable gardener, a flower enthusiast, or just want a nice looking landscape, the secret to your success begins with your soil. Rather than simple and static, the soil is a dynamic environment. In an ideal situation, it is full of tiny plants and animals, microbial activity, and all of the organic processes that lead to healthy plant life.

Here are a few ways to tell if your soil is functioning properly, and if Monty’s Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner can help.

Look – The first step to assessing soil health is to simply look for clues.  By observing what is going on at the surface you will have a good indication of what is taking place throughout your soil profile.

Key things to look for include:

  • Large clods after tilling
  • Cracks in the soil as it dries
  • Bare patches or areas where vegetation won’t grow
  • Heavy weed population
  • Standing water after a rain
  • Persistent “wet spots” or mud
  • No, or few, earthworms, pill bugs, and other signs of healthy insects
  • Heavy thatch layer or plant debris that does not decompose after a season
  • Pale soil ranging from almost white to light brown.  Healthy soil should be a rich brown to black.

Touch – Dig in to your soil. This is the fun part of gardening and maintaining your landscape.  By actually getting your hands into the soil you can tell a lot about the make-up, tilth and texture of your soil.  Good quality soil should be loose and light. In the morning when moisture will be at its peak level, dig in a few inches and grab a small handful of soil. Clench your fist around the dirt and then open your hand.  What happens?

  • If it falls apart into small pieces the soil is lacking enough organic matter and is tending towards a sand content that is too high.
  • If it stays together in one large clod it is likely holding too much water and is primarily clay, which can lead to compaction problems and anaerobic conditions which will favor the formation of harmful bacteria.
  • If it forms one central clod that breaks apart easily with slight touch or movement, is encircled by loose, separate bits of soil, you are on your way to creating an ideal environment for most plants.

Finally, if you have problems even digging into your soil at least 5-6 inches, you know that you have compaction problems that need to be addressed.

Smell – This is one that you may not have thought about, however, with a little practice your nose can tell you much about the condition of your soil. Healthy soils should smell earthy and moist, almost like well-maintained compost. If, on the other hand, what you smell is flat or non-existent, if it smells like a stagnant pond, or if it smells somewhat acrid, you know that you have situations that need to be addressed.

Gardening Practices – Some gardening practices themselves actually can be harmful to soil, especially over time.  And, even beneficial gardening practices may be enhanced. If you are currently doing any of these things, consider using Monty’s Liquid Carbon to remediate, improve, or expedite your current practices.

Not all soils can be transformed into an ideal state, but they all can be improved. By observing, touching, and smelling your soil, and by analyzing your current lawn and garden activities you can begin to see where improvements can be made. By making simple, seasonal applications of Monty’s Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner, either in concentrate or with the new ready-to-spray bottle, you can maximize the potential of your soil and return it to a plant-friendly, vibrant environment.

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Helping Plants After A Drought

By nancyc on July 22, 2012

To meteorologists, “drought” is measured in at least two ways. The first is a measure of ground water and surface water as measured by the Palmer Hydrological Drought Index. The second is a measure of rainfall over the past twelve months as indicated by the Palmer Drought Index.  In either case, recent indices from July, 2011 through June, 2012, have shown the most extreme level of drought extending from Texas west to Nevada and California, north to Wyoming and into parts of the Midwest.

Palmer Hydrological Drought Index: Source, National Climatic Data Center

Source: National Climatic Data Center

In homeowner and gardening terms: Boy, it’s dry!

Let’s look at how you can help your plants recover once a drought ends.

During the drought, plants basically shut down and now need to be nursed back to health.  The pores on the surface of the plant closed to prevent moisture loss. The nutrients and water stored in the cells of the outermost leaves withdrew, causing wilt, curling, and shriveling. Finally, the chlorophyll withdrew so it could be used to sustain the “heart” of the plant, which is why it turned yellow, became turgid and brittle.  The plant opted to jettison those leaves and limbs to guarantee its ultimate survival.

A similar process took place below the soil line.  The plant at first attempted to grow additional roots, especially tap roots, but eventually the auxiliary root systems and the root hairs dried, withered and eventually died.

When moisture returns, baby the plants at first, and bring them along slowly. Our first instinct is to go outside and pour on the nitrogen, which, after a drought is absolutely the wrong thing to do. The plant cannot process the nitrogen without the leaf surface, limb structure and root hairs to take it in. Also, it can’t handle the added stress of being forced to grow with a limited root mass to support the additional growth.

Rather than using a high N (nitrogen)* fertilizer, use a high P & K (phosphorous and potassium)* plant food to start.  This will help build the root system so it can make use of the other nutrients and draw in the moisture needed to process the nitrogen. Monty’s Root and Bloom 2-15-15, a liquid plant food, is an excellent option.

Once you start to see vitality returning to the landscape, step up to Monty’s Growth Formula 8-16-8.  By this time the plants can support the robust growth that Monty’s will provide.

Remember the soil.  The drought has taken its toll on the soil as well.  All of the microscopic flora and fauna — including earthworms and arthropods — have likely died or moved on and need to be encouraged to return.  Soils most likely have collapsed during the drought, making moisture management a challenge and additional root growth almost impossible in the tight, compacted environment.  Using Monty’s Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner will aid recovery. While it is always a good practice to condition soils at least annually to maintain peak efficiency, reduce compaction and boost organic matter, in drought years it may be critical.

*Plant foods and fertilizers are labeled according to the percentage of each of these three primary nutrients in the formulation:
N (nitrogen), P (phosphate) and K (potassium, or potash).  For example, plant food labeled “2-15-15” contains 2% nitrogen, 15% phosphorous, and 15% potassium.

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Ask Monty’s – “OMRI Listed” versus “Certified Organic” labeling

By nancyc on June 9, 2012

What is the difference between plant food or fertilizer that is “OMRI Listed” and “certified organic?”  Who certifies these organic products?

Rick, Eagle Mountain, Utah

Rick:
This can be confusing and maybe even redundant, but the terminology and two endorsements actually work together and maybe even simultaneously.

First, the term “certified organic” can only legally apply to food and fiber products, and not to fertilizers or plant food.  Second, as mentioned in an earlier post, fertilizer companies can use the term “organic” to refer to organic — or carbon-based — content, without any verification that any or all of the ingredients meet specifications set out by the National Organic Program to be listed by OMRI (see below).

The USDA has established the guidelines to meet “organic certification,” which ensures that the end product — food or fiber — has conformed to their strict uniform standards, which are verified by independent state or private organizations. The certifications include:

  • Inspections of the processing facilities
  • Detailed record keeping, and
  • Periodic testing to ensure that growers and handlers are meeting the standards which have been set.

OMRI - Organic Materials Review InstituteThe Organic Materials Review Institute (OMRI) provides organic certifiers, growers and manufacturers and suppliers a listing of input products for use in the production, handling and processing of goods which will comply with the National Organic Program.  One example of an input product is the fertilizer used in growing a crop.  It is not the fertilizer that can be certified organic, only the food or fiber produced with the fertilizer than can ultimately be certified (by the NOP). The OMRI listing generally reads, “OMRI listed for use in organic production,” and should be accompanied by the OMRI logo.  Again, OMRI does not certify food or fiber (or fertilizers) as organic: OMRI works with the USDA in complying with their standards.

Monty’s is proud to have our soil conditioners OMRI listed.  For those seeking to improve the condition of their soil while being in compliance with the National Organic Program, but without the labor-intensive, and often expensive, nature of other options, Monty’s Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner is a terrific product.

For additional insights on labeling, please visit our blog posts from June 6 and June 8, or visit these handy websites:

  • OMRI – information that organic farmers, handlers, certifiers, and other members of the organic community might find useful.

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Ask Monty’s – Labels that read “All Natural”

By nancyc on June 8, 2012

In our last post we covered the plant food and fertilizer labeling terms “Organic” and “OMRI Listed.” In our next post we’ll cover the term “Certified Organic.”

Today, we’ll address the moniker “All Natural,” for which there is no regulation.

There is a growing belief as society becomes greener that natural is always better – better for individual health and for the environment. For this reason, many companies use that term to entice you into buying their product.

Using the term “all natural” is not federally regulated and is used by companies as a marketing tool. Just how “natural” a product is and how beneficial it will be is largely determined by the company itself.  Rather than muddying the waters further let me explain what Monty’s means when we use the term.

Some of our products, like our Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner, are OMRI listed for use in organic production.  Some, like our fertility products, are not. However, we can tell you, in full confidence, that our plant food products are naturally-sourced and derived.

How important that distinction is to you will be based on your objectives.  For example, if you are hoping to sell your vegetables in a local market as an organic product, then you could definitely use our Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioners but we could not recommend our plant foods to you for that purpose.

However, if you are simply looking for a product with superior performance and that is not harmful to you, your family and animals, or the environment, then you can use our naturally-derived plant food products with confidence.

I hope this helps. I know it can be a bit overwhelming. For more assurance and to help you purchase with confidence I would encourage you to develop a relationship with an independent garden center retailer so they can help guide you to products — like Monty’s Plant and Soil Products — that will help you achieve your goals.

Listed below are some handy links to OMRI, USDA and organic growing websites.  Also, refer to our post from June 6, for information about the terms “organic” and “OMRI listed.” And stay tuned for our next post about the term “certified organic.”

  • OMRI – information that organic farmers, handlers, certifiers, and other members of the organic community might find useful.

  • USDA Organic Roots Collection – electronic collection of historic documents published before 1942 – a time before synthetic chemicals became widely used.  Find state-of-the-art information and data that is still pertinent for today’s organic and sustainable agriculture.

  • HowToGoOrganic.com – The Organic Trade Association offers this resource to help cultivate the growth of organic farming.

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Ask Monty’s – “Organic” versus “All Natural” labels

By nancyc on June 6, 2012

What is the difference between plant food or fertilizer labels that read “Organic SoilOrganic” and “All Natural?”
Derek, Calera, Alabama

Derek:
That is a good question and one that can be a bit confusing, so I’m going to address “Organic” in this post, “All Natural” in the next posting and “Certified Organic” in yet a third blog post.  Let’s look at “organic” first. It should be understood, as your question implies that there is definitely a difference between “all natural” and “organic” when it comes to plant food or fertilizers – and especially food products.  The terms are not interchangeable.

Organic fertilizers come from all-natural sources such as selected animal manures, mined rock powders, blood meal, feather meal, cottonseed meal, alfalfa meal, bone meal, fish extracts and seaweed by-products.  Simply put, organic fertilizers are derived from animal or vegetable matter.  Beyond that simple definition, though, things get a bit confusing.

The federal government has attempted to implement regulations on what it means to be “organic,” primarily with regard to the production of food and fiber.  A fertilizer company could place the word “organic” on most any fertilizer product it chooses to, and some do. After all, as we become a much “greener” society, these types of words have great power in the marketplace. In these cases the word really has little meaning at all, and may only refer to the fact that there is organic — or carbon-based — content, without any verification that all of the ingredients meet specifications set out by the National Organic Program (see below).  Therefore, the burden of proof and the task of sorting out these claims is on the government and the consumer.

Second — and this is where it gets even more confusing — is determining just how organic is “organic.”  For example, a company could blend cow manure with water and claim it is organic and it would be.  But the products produced by that fertilizer still may not qualify under the guidelines of the National Organic Program (NOP) instituted by the federal government.  This is where the organization known as the Organic Materials Research Institute (OMRI) OMRI - Organic Materials Review Institutecomes in.  OMRI is an independent, non-profit institution which serves as the gatekeeper for products which meet the requirements of the NOP.  Input products cannot be labeled “certified organic“: rather, OMRI uses the term “OMRI Listed” for products which may be used in the production of organic food and fiber, under the guidelines of the NOP. Furthermore, the term “certified organic” can only legally apply to food or fiber products.

Use of the term “organic” on fertilizers is generally not regulated. Some of the products listed by OMRI are not, in fact, organic.  Due to a provision in their guidelines for becoming “OMRI Listed,” a non-organic product can be a listed product if no close, non-synthetic substitute exists.

Let’s try to summarize.

  • Products that claim to be organic may or may not be.
  • OMRI lists certain “raw materials” which may be used in the production of organic finished goods, but they do not technically certify the input products.  All they do is say this material will not disqualify the end product from participation in the National Organic Program.
  • The National Organic Program certifies producers and products, but only of finished goods, i.e., food and fiber.
  • In the end, much of what is meant by the term organic is based on the reliability of the company making the claim.

If you are looking for a product that you can use with confidence in your lawn or garden, buy from a reputable dealer who sells products from reliable companies, and look for the “OMRI Listed” designation . Even at that, though, Caveat Emptor!

Stay tuned for our next blog post about the term “All Natural.”  In the meantime, here are some handy links:

  • OMRI – information that organic farmers, handlers, certifiers, and other members of the organic community might find useful.

  • USDA Organic Roots Collection – electronic collection of historic documents published before 1942 – a time before synthetic chemicals became widely used.  Find state-of-the-art information and data that is still pertinent for today’s organic and sustainable agriculture.

  • HowToGoOrganic.com – The Organic Trade Association offers this resource to help cultivate the growth of organic farming.

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Ask Monty’s – Of pH and hydrangeas

By nancyc on May 22, 2012

What’s the difference between acidic and alkaline soil?

Keating, Cayce, South Carolina

Keating:
To answer this question, we will need to start with your old science classes.  Soil acidity and alkalinity is measured using the pH scale which runs from 0-14.  Neutral soil is pH7, acid is simply a lower number and alkaline a higher one.
You can have your soil tested of course and take the guess work out quite easily, but to give you a better understanding of how acid soils are formed, take a walk through the woods. The woodland floor is carpeted in conifer needles, leaves of hardwood trees and other dead plant matter, all of which increases soil acidity as they break down and decompose.  Rainfall, as it filters through trees and into the ground, dissolves limestone sediment and other alkaline minerals that help neutralize soil acidity.
Rhododendron in the woodsPlants such as heathers, camellias, rhododendrons and blueberries thrive in acid soils in which nitrogen, phosphate and potassium can be less available.  Clematis, viburnums, and lilac on the other hand, are lime lovers and thrive in alkaline soils.  Even more interesting, some hydrangea blooms are blue in acid soils and pink in alkaline soils.
While most plants prefer a neutral soil, some need the soil to be either slightly acidic or slightly alkaline. Further, some of the products that we normally use in the course of gardening or landscaping can affect the pH of the soil.  That is what makes Monty’s such a boon for homeowners – none of Monty’s plant foods, or our Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner, affect pH, whereas most fertilizers do. Regardless of your plant type, you can feed it with Monty’s knowing that it will not impact the pH of your soil.

Care and feeding of a (blue) hydrangea
“As a going-away present my office bought me a blue hydrangea – something I was always apprehensive about buying because they were a little pricey.  Where do I plant it, as I know they can be quite touchy about their surroundings?”

Kesha, Big Rapid, Michigan

Kesha:
Hydrangea do have some very specific requirements, but don’t let that scare you away.  They do well in a sunny or partially sunny area and I always recommend that this plant be near the house where they are protected from colder weather just as an added “perennial insurance caution.”  They prefer porous, moist, rich soil, and the blue hydrangea prefer a more acidic soil.  Water regularly as well.  Proper pruning is very important with these plants, which is done in the winter, and not too severely as new flower buds form on the older wood of the plant. Transplant with Monty’s Liquid Carbon and a root dip in a solution of Monty’s Indoor/Outdoor 4-15-12 (1/2 teaspoon per gallon of water). That blue color is protected by keeping your soils more acidic in nature. For the most vibrant blooms imaginable, make sure you feed the leaves directly with Monty’s Root and Bloom 2-15-15.

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Ask Monty’s – Planning Your Spring Garden

By nancyc on March 20, 2012

The Scoop on Peat Moss
“I have read from time to time that peat moss is really not considered that good of a soil conditioner, yet I also read articles that talk about it being so great.  What’s the real scoop on peat moss?”
Rhonda, Mooresville, North Carolina

Rhonda:
Peat moss is considered a common soil conditioner, but not one that can stand alone.  While peat moss is definitely a lightweight, natural conditioner, it is used to help loosen heavy soils and improves the soil’s ability to hold moisture.  Combine it with compost, limestone, and ground wood or sawdust and you have a good combination going as a soil conditioner.
If you are not into all of that work then there is a better solution. The essence of the compost and peat moss is humus. That is the substance that makes it so effective.  With Monty’s Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner we have separated this humus into its base components then cleaned it.  What is left is an activated form of humic that is ready to go to work in your soil.
Nature will eventually do the same thing with your compost and peat moss, it just takes longer and requires a lot more work on your part. By applying Monty’s Liquid Carbon annually (at least) you can quickly remediate troubled soils. Plus this year, with our all-new ready to spray formula, “better just got easier!”  All you have to do is attach the new container to your garden hose and apply.

Good Companion Vegetables for Tomatoes
“I’ve finally learned that I don’t need to grow a dozen tomato plants for our small family needs, often giving a lot of them away or canning way more than we really need.  So this spring I will have room for other plants in my garden.  Are there certain vegetables that might do better than others around tomatoes, as I still need to plant some? ”
Liam, Downers Grove, Illinois

Liam:

Carrots, lettuce, radish, onions and parsley are good companion plants for tomatoes.  Did you know that basil is even known to improve tomato growth and flavor as well when planted by them?  Cabbage and cauliflower are NOT good tomato “neighbors.”  If you are interested in planting dill, do it on the other end of the garden.

Chives as Organic Solution in Rose Garden
“Will chives ward off aphids and keep my roses from getting black spot disease?  I’ve read this in an organic magazine, but it’s the only time I’ve heard of this.  I didn’t really want to plant them by my roses, because I know they spread, but I sure would like to keep my roses as healthy as possible and having chives as a backdrop wouldn’t be so bad.”
Merrill, Iowa City, Iowa

Merrill:
There are a lot of natural plant repellants out there, which is great for the organic gardener, but should not to be taken as cure-alls.  As a gardener, being proactive pays off, but daily plant attention and recognizing problems from the get-go is also important.  Perennial chives have been known to ward off aphids, as does peppermint and garlic.
Black spot disease is caused by water splashing up on your leaves, so be careful how you water roses. Since their roots are so shallow I always mulch around my roses, which also absorbs the splash from rains and watering, which helps control black spot.  There are plenty of products on the market, some more natural than others that can be sprayed on the leaves to eradicate black spot attacks.  They are all very effective, but you have to keep on top of it regardless.
The best defense is a good offense, and with roses this means healthy rose plants.  Most pests and diseases are opportunistic, so if you have healthy plants, there are fewer opportunities for pests and disease.  The best way to keep rose plants healthy is to feed them with Monty’s 8-16-8 Growth Formula early in the season when shoots start to show and as leaves appear, and then feed them with Monty’s 2-15-15 Root and Bloom once buds appear on the rose plant and through the bloom cycle.  Foliar feeding should help strengthen the stems and leaves, thereby helping to eliminate any “opportunity” for a pest or disease to set in or take over.

Give Gladiolus Another Chance
“I planted Gladiolus bulbs and Sunflowers together last summer and got great Sunflowers but no Glads.  Was it bad bulbs or overpowering Sunflowers?”
Liza, Wake Forest, North Carolina

Liza:
Your Sunflowers may have overpowered you Glads, perhaps shading them or sucking up all the Glads’ needed water and nutrients.  Sunflowers will do that.  And Glads need just as much sun as Sunflowers.  Sunflowers also contain a toxin that can harm other plants, although I have not had problems with planting them myself as a border in my vegetable garden, tucked in with Black-Eyed Susans and even with Zinnias and Cannas.  Give those Glads another shot this spring, away from those Sunflowers and in the full sun they love.

Marigolds as Organic Pest Control
“My grandmother always planted a border of marigolds in her vegetable garden because she said they warded off pests.  I’ve never done it, but is there any truth to it?  I’d hate to waste the marigolds on my garden space if it’s just to beautify my garden, as I have limited space.”
Jeannie,  Galena, Illinois

Jeannie:
Sounds like Grandma knew something about “companion planting,” which is the safest, most natural way to garden organically.  Marigolds are easy to grow and helps keep away aphids.  And, you can dry the flowers for seeds in the fall for planting from year to year, so there’s not even a financial investment involved either.  They also say marigolds will ward off thrips, tomato hornworms, squash bugs and whiteflies.    They are also known to repel harmful root knot nematodes (soil dwelling microscopic white worms) that attack tomatoes, potatoes, roses, and strawberries. The root of the marigold produces a chemical that kills nematodes as they enter the soil. If a whole area is infested, at the end of the season, you can turn the marigolds under so the roots will decay in the soil and then safely plant there again the following spring.  Perhaps you might want to rethink those marigolds – there’s more than meets the eye with this pretty little flowers.

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Ask Monty’s – Indoor Gardening Tips

By nancyc on February 17, 2012

Christmas cactus

Christmas cactus

Pruning a Christmas Cactus
“When is the best time to prune my unruly Christmas cactus? It’s budding out and will have tons of beautiful flowers on it before it is done blooming, but I’d like to shape it up better as it’s very out of control at this point.  I’m a little hesitant though because I don’t want to risk killing it.”

Nicollettel, Paden City, West Virginia

Nicollette:
The best time to pinch, prune or shape a Christmas cactus is when the new growth begins in March or early April. In addition, the best time for repotting a cactus is in February, March or April. However, keep in mind the plant will flower best if it’s kept in a container where it’s pot-bound.
________

Pruning a Christmas Cactus to Add Volume
“My Christmas Cactus has quit blooming finally and I noticed it looks kind of leggy.  How can you get a Christmas Cactus to fill out more?  Is it even possible?”

Dean, Woolwine, Virginia

Dean:
Sure it is!  And it’s easy!  Give the plant a few weeks of rest then just cut off a few segments from each stem – which you can easily determine.  Don’t let the fleshy segments scare you off.  This pruning, like any other plant, will help the plant become bushier and fuller next year.  You can also plant those cut off segments to propagate new plants very easily, so don’t pitch them in the garbage!

When propagating any plant from cuttings, don’t forget to give it the nutrition it needs to help establish those early root systems.  By mixing Monty’s 2-15-15 at rates as low as 1 drop per cup of water you can provide the nutrition it needs to root and begin growing successfully. You’ll soon have enough plants to give starters to your friends, just don’t forget to give them a little Monty’s when you do.  That will be the gift that keeps on growing!

One last reminder, pruning – even during dormancy – can still be a form of stress for the plant. Make sure you help your plants deal with this, and any other, stress by providing the nutrition they need.  One ounce per gallon of water of the appropriate Monty’s plant food for the current growth stage will help your plants and landscape perform at their peak.
_________

Saving your Poinsettia
“I still have my Poinsettia from the holidays and it still looks very nice overall.  I always repot them right after I buy one because it seems like the water runs right through the soil, which seems to be the norm for retail Poinsettias.  Regardless, my plant lives on a window sill in bright, indirect sunlight, but some of the leaves are developing black marks on their leaves.  What could be causing that? I know they are not getting sun burned.”

Cailley, Greendale, Indiana

Cailley:
The leaves are probably touching the window itself and the cold is damaging the leaves.  You are right on about the bright, indirect sunlight, but make sure it is away from cold room drafts, heaters or anything hot or cold that can come in contact with the plant.
One last note, anytime you repot a plant, “root dip” the plant in a solution of Monty’s 2-15-15 at a rate of 1 oz. per gallon of water.  Once transplanted, you can water-in your plant with any remaining solution.  This is true whether you are repotting, or transplanting potted plants to a more permanent home in your landscape.  This one step will go a long way toward eliminating transplant shock.
______

Dracaena

Spots on Dracaena
“Why does my Dracaena have whitish brown spots on the leaves?

Kristin, Black Diamond, Washington

Kristin:
Sounds like you have some direct sun hitting the leaves of the plant and burning them.  Take notice of how the sun is coming in through the window and move your plant accordingly.  Even a light sheer on the window will help too.
________

Signs a Plant Needs Repotting
“How do you know when a plant needs to be repotted other than the obvious signs of seeing more roots exposed in the pot than dirt that should be covering them?”

Caren, Lombard, Illinois

Caren:
There are actually three pretty obvious signs that will tell you when a plant needs to be repotted – and you can see it through their leaves.

  • Dead leaves are one obvious sign.  If you are starting to get too many of them on a plant despite your normal care, chances are the problem is much deeper in the pot – literally.  The roots are growing too large and choking out the plant’s nutrients.  The dead leaves can also promote mold in the container and pests love that environment, so you can compound some problems here very easily.
  • Yellowing leaves usually prelude the obvious dead leaf sign, so pay attention to what your plant is telling you before you encounter the extreme.
  • The hardest sign to read is if a plant just doesn’t seem healthy before their leaves actually turn yellow and completely die.  If your plant suddenly starts to lack luster, stops growing and doesn’t respond to fertilizer, the plant is most likely root bound.

When repotting, make sure the new pot is at least four to six inches larger than the current one.  Be sure to loosen the roots up, knocking off the old soil to free them up so they have more breathing room and making them easier to spread out before repotting the plant.

The plant has been starving, due to its root-bound state so feel free to trim some of the roots back as well. Then, as always, feed it with Monty’s 2-15-15 at first to help it recover from stress and to promote the development of new roots and more importantly those fine root hairs that are essential for your plant to be able to absorb water and nutrients.  After it is reestablished you can move to one of the higher nitrogen formulas from Monty’s like 8-16-8 or 4-15-12 depending on the amount of top-growth you are trying to achieve.

A good rule of green thumb is anytime a plant has gone through any stress like transplanting, drought, flooding, or insect pressure, baby it first with 2-15-15, then help it grow with 8-16-8. Take care of the roots and the plant will respond.
__________

Terra Cotta Pots
“I was abruptly awakened out of a sound sleep recently when one of my large terra cotta pots full of Peace Lilies split, broke and fell apart.  What would have caused this right out of the blue? I’ve since repotted the plant, but didn’t use my usual terra cotta container as a choice, going to a ceramic pot instead.”

Hannah, Anaconda, Montana

Hannah:
I prefer the terra cotta pots myself because they come in so many different affordable sizes and shapes, but the drawback is that they will break very easily.  The larger ones are also quite heavy by the time you get your potting soil and plants in them and they do soak up water very quickly.  Your pot just may have worn out between the pot being watered and drying out, which can cause stress on those older pots.  Even the stress of the root ball pushing as it grows against the pot and the combination of it all can cause sudden breakage.  By switching to a ceramic pot the glaze will act as a seal on the pottery a little better, but you won’t get away from the weight.  They’re also a bit more expensive but come in beautiful shapes and unique glazing patterns that are hard to resist.
_________

“Rust” fungus
“What is rust on a plant? What does it look like?  Is it brown like rust?”

Rachael, Windsor, Colorado

Rachael:
First of all, rust is a fungus.  The symptoms are orange-yellow spots on leaves, followed by orange, fuzzy-looking spots on the underside of the leaves.  Not all plants are susceptible to it, so that’s one good thing. However, cypress and plants in the rose family such as crab apple, apple, hawthorn, hollyhock, pear and rose are.  Keep in mind that if one of your plants gets rust on it, get rid of the plant entirely to keep it from spreading to others around it.  That includes cleaning up any debris or infected fruit.  There are also fungicides on the market that can assist with any major infestations, but look at the label because not just any all service fungicide will take care of it.

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Ask Monty’s 8-26-11: Peonies, Sunflowers, and Achromatic Landscaping

By admin on August 29, 2011

Sunflower-closeup--by-PriceAsk Monty’s: ”A girlfriend of mine gave me a package of peony roots to help ease the pain of two peony plants my husband relentlessly mowed over with the lawn mower because they were planted in the middle of the yard. My bad for not getting out and digging them up and moving them! When can I plant these bare rooted ones as I’ve only seen peonies that were already started in pots and ready for planting? I have no idea how to begin this process.”

Twila – Charlotte, NC

Twila: Well, you already know where a peony will best survive in your yard if it hadn’t fallen victim to being in the wrong place and the right time. They love the sun and a slightly acidic soil that drains well. The best time to plant bare root peony is in the fall just as the leaves are beginning to turn. By planting them in the fall they will actually have time to develop a strong root system which will give them more robust growth next spring.

Open the package your plants came in and make sure the plants are healthy. The tubers should be fleshy, firm and mold free. Sometimes these store bought plants dry out during transit, so it’s a good idea to soak them in a bucket of water for two to four hours to re-hydrate them before planting.

Peonies should be planted with the eyes pointing up and just below the surface of the soil. Peonies that are planted too deep will not bloom, so that is very important to remember. In your area tubers should be planted no deeper than two inches. In the mid-South, half-inch deep is sufficient. Then make sure you put mulch over the top of them and keep these plants well watered until the ground freezes.

Also, by soaking the bare-root stock in Monty’s 4-15-12 overnight before planting you can help stimulate root development. This formula is ideal for all of your transplanting and seeding needs. In fact, many of our growers have indicated that by soaking their bare-root plants and seeds they are nearing 100% emergence. Not only to the plants emerge better, they also tend to develop larger, healthier root systems and have the energy they need for success during that first year.

Ask Monty’s: “This the first year I planted sunflowers, so I planted a mammoth variety. They were growing great with big thick stalks and the heads were just starting to bloom. I look at their progress daily only to find one morning that an infestation of bugs were literally devouring the seeds that were trying to bloom on the flower. I sprayed them with an overall insecticide, but it isn’t slowing them down. What are these horrible bugs that are ruining these beautiful plants?”

Loyd – Greendale, IN

Loyd: Meet the red and gray sunflower seed weevil. Both are easily recognizable by their pronounced long “snouts.” What’s so horrible about them is that just as you’re getting ready to enjoy the huge flower heads, these pre-laid larvae that you are unaware of emerge from inside the forming seeds and start devouring their way out. There are specific products out on the market to control these pests, but note that they need to be applied in late June or early July just before the eggs are laid.

I’ve also heard from old sources that planting garlic around sunflowers keeps these pests at bay. It might be worth the try and you’ll also get a nice garlic production even if it doesn’t totally work.

In addition, experimentation is currently in progress regarding the development of hybrid sunflowers that are weevil resistant, so watch the market for those as well.

One last note, remember, Monty’s 2-15-15 is easy to mix with most herbicides and pesticides. So, in addition to getting the protection from insects that you are looking for as you treat your sunflower seeds, you can boost the appearance and production of your sunflowers. One other benefit, healthier plants tend to be naturally more insect and disease resistant, so the application of Monty’s may also help to boost the protection from these pests.

Ask Monty’s: “I was reading a landscaping magazine trying to get some ideas for next year’s improvement to our yard and the author kept referring from time to time about different kinds of garden layouts, especially the incorporating of achromatic schemes. Achromatic means “without color,” so I wasn’t sure what was being suggested. Can you elaborate more on this?”

Reese – Shoreview, MN

Reese: The author was probably suggesting an all white color scheme as an alternative to your usual, often colorful garden themes. If you have an interesting yard that is conducive to an all white color scheme believe it or not, the look can be quite dramatic, unique and truly beautiful. If you have backdrops of heavily wooded areas or rock or stone outcroppings, the results can be quite stunning if done correctly – which only comes with trial and error. Some white flowers to consider are carmellia, rose, Shasa daisies, peonies and white lilac, as well as some types of silver foliage like lambs’ ears. I hope I have our creative wheels spinning now!

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Ask Monty’s 7/11/11: Coneflowers, Turnips, and Buggered by Broccoli Plants

By Dennis on July 11, 2011

Ask Monty’s: “I planted an awesome hosta bed under my old oak trees in a section of my yard and then dropped in some coneflowers behind them to add some color and height.  The first year everything was pretty well on their way to settling in and growing well.  The second year the coneflowers did okay, but this third year the hostas were outstanding and the coneflowers appeared to have all died, except for one lonely clump trying to hang on.  What happened here? 

Chevy – Topeka, Kansas

Chevy: You sort of lucked out getting those coneflowers to bloom at all.  The fact that your hostas are doing so well tells me the area is quite shaded –a hosta environment that they thrive in.  Coneflowers are a true wildflower and grow best in full sunny, well drained soil.  Your coneflowers are sun lovers and shade is not the place for them.

Ask Monty’s:  “I didn’t get around to planting my turnips this spring and was wondering if it’s too late to plant them now in July?”

Deann – Wiota, Wisconsin

Deann:  The one nice thing about turnips is that about the time other vegetables in your garden are winding down, turnips are turning out tasty tops and yummy meaty bulbs.  While often planted in the spring, if you want a winter crop they are best sowed in July or early August.  Late plantings are also less susceptible to turnip root maggot damage too.  If you decided to plant both a spring and summer turnip patch next year, they do make good companions for onions and peas in the garden, so keep that in mind.  But back to your question – plant those turnips now!

  Ask Monty’s: “I planted broccoli from seeds this year and it seemed to take forever for anything to come up.  The seeds were so small it was impossible to keep from getting them too thick in the furrows.  It was a nightmare and now they’ve all grown up and I’ve started pulling them out so there is more room between them to develop.  I don’t think I’ll ever plant them again?”

Stephanie – Nappanee, Indiana 

Stephanie: Don’t give up on your broccoli endeavors yet!  Wait until you taste that first fresh head and realize how much your effort paid off.  But yes, planting by seed directly into the ground is a test of patience for those little, bitty seeds like radishes, carrots and celery as well to name a few.  If a person has the room, sowing the seeds inside in early spring in trays gives you a major head start and gives the little plants a good head start after you’ve weeded out the ones that got too close together.  You can also buy seed strips that have the seeds on a biodegradable material and, pre-spaced that you just lay down in the furrow, cover with dirt and wait for them to come up. They’re a little pricey, but definitely easier. Since I only plant for small family usage, I do buy the plants already started in the spring from my local greenhouse.  They come in four or six packs with a good head start, so putting them directly in the soil where they need to be is a lot less stressful for me. I’m not much for seed starting either, but have to have that broccoli in my garden! 

One last note on broccoli, don’t expect to see them with the large softball sized heads that you see in the grocery store.  Those are grown by farmers and usually with a volume of chemicals and fertilizers that you, as a home gardener, would neither want, need, afford, or be able to attain.  The heads will be smaller, but sweeter and, overall, better than their mass produced-counterparts. Plant your heads plants in the ground about two per week until you’ve planted the deisred number or have filled your row.  By doing this you will extend your growing season and have fresh-from-the-garden broccoli for several weeks.  If doing that requires too much patience, then you can plant them all at once, just be prepared to preserve them.  Borccoli do well in the freezer if they are par-boiled for about 2 minutes, run under cool water, dried as well as possible then cut into florets and frozen in zip-top baggies.

Oh, and don’t forget, like the turnips and other veggies metnioned above…broccoli and cauliflower can start going in the ground in the last third of July in the far Northern US through late August in the Deep South (check with local county agents for exact timing) for wonderful fresh fall veg crops.

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