We love customer testimonials!

By nancyc on December 28, 2012

Early in December, Monty’s received a hand-written letter (a treasure in itself, on gardening stationery) and photo from a satisfied customer who uses Monty’s Growth Formula (Yellow Label 8-16-8) on her fern. We love to share these letters because, even though we know how amazing Monty’s is, we want others to know the contentment and success experienced by Monty’s customers everywhere.

Fern grown indoors and outdoors using Monty's Growth Formula

“I have enclosed a photo of a fern that I purchased in the Spring of 2011, keeping it outside on my porch through the summer and moving it into my sunroom for the winter of 2011.  The fern was small, in a small container, and did not grow very much in 2011.

In 2012, I put the fern back on my porch and ordered Monty’s Joy Juice 8-16-18.  This is a picture of the fern after using Monty’s through the year 2012.  I have the plant in my sunroom again and will move it back to my porch for 2013.  I will order Monty’s Joy Juice again in 2013 and see if the fern continues to grow.  I would recommend Monty’s Joy Juice to any and all gardeners.”

SK, Tennessee

Thank you, SK!  We think it’s fun that while we have not used the term “Joy Juice” for several years, many customers still refer to it that way.

If you would like to send us a testimonial or gardening love-letter, please email to customercare@montysplantfood.com or mail your letter (and photo) to:
Monty’s Plant Food Company
4800 Strawberry Lane
Louisville, KY  40209

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Perfecting your soil this fall

By nancyc on October 4, 2012

Whether you’re an avid vegetable gardener, a flower enthusiast, or just want a nice looking landscape, the secret to your success begins with your soil. Rather than simple and static, the soil is a dynamic environment. In an ideal situation, it is full of tiny plants and animals, microbial activity, and all of the organic processes that lead to healthy plant life.

Here are a few ways to tell if your soil is functioning properly, and if Monty’s Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner can help.

Look – The first step to assessing soil health is to simply look for clues.  By observing what is going on at the surface you will have a good indication of what is taking place throughout your soil profile.

Key things to look for include:

  • Large clods after tilling
  • Cracks in the soil as it dries
  • Bare patches or areas where vegetation won’t grow
  • Heavy weed population
  • Standing water after a rain
  • Persistent “wet spots” or mud
  • No, or few, earthworms, pill bugs, and other signs of healthy insects
  • Heavy thatch layer or plant debris that does not decompose after a season
  • Pale soil ranging from almost white to light brown.  Healthy soil should be a rich brown to black.

Touch – Dig in to your soil. This is the fun part of gardening and maintaining your landscape.  By actually getting your hands into the soil you can tell a lot about the make-up, tilth and texture of your soil.  Good quality soil should be loose and light. In the morning when moisture will be at its peak level, dig in a few inches and grab a small handful of soil. Clench your fist around the dirt and then open your hand.  What happens?

  • If it falls apart into small pieces the soil is lacking enough organic matter and is tending towards a sand content that is too high.
  • If it stays together in one large clod it is likely holding too much water and is primarily clay, which can lead to compaction problems and anaerobic conditions which will favor the formation of harmful bacteria.
  • If it forms one central clod that breaks apart easily with slight touch or movement, is encircled by loose, separate bits of soil, you are on your way to creating an ideal environment for most plants.

Finally, if you have problems even digging into your soil at least 5-6 inches, you know that you have compaction problems that need to be addressed.

Smell – This is one that you may not have thought about, however, with a little practice your nose can tell you much about the condition of your soil. Healthy soils should smell earthy and moist, almost like well-maintained compost. If, on the other hand, what you smell is flat or non-existent, if it smells like a stagnant pond, or if it smells somewhat acrid, you know that you have situations that need to be addressed.

Gardening Practices – Some gardening practices themselves actually can be harmful to soil, especially over time.  And, even beneficial gardening practices may be enhanced. If you are currently doing any of these things, consider using Monty’s Liquid Carbon to remediate, improve, or expedite your current practices.

Not all soils can be transformed into an ideal state, but they all can be improved. By observing, touching, and smelling your soil, and by analyzing your current lawn and garden activities you can begin to see where improvements can be made. By making simple, seasonal applications of Monty’s Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner, either in concentrate or with the new ready-to-spray bottle, you can maximize the potential of your soil and return it to a plant-friendly, vibrant environment.

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Ask Monty’s – “OMRI Listed” versus “Certified Organic” labeling

By nancyc on June 9, 2012

What is the difference between plant food or fertilizer that is “OMRI Listed” and “certified organic?”  Who certifies these organic products?

Rick, Eagle Mountain, Utah

Rick:
This can be confusing and maybe even redundant, but the terminology and two endorsements actually work together and maybe even simultaneously.

First, the term “certified organic” can only legally apply to food and fiber products, and not to fertilizers or plant food.  Second, as mentioned in an earlier post, fertilizer companies can use the term “organic” to refer to organic — or carbon-based — content, without any verification that any or all of the ingredients meet specifications set out by the National Organic Program to be listed by OMRI (see below).

The USDA has established the guidelines to meet “organic certification,” which ensures that the end product — food or fiber — has conformed to their strict uniform standards, which are verified by independent state or private organizations. The certifications include:

  • Inspections of the processing facilities
  • Detailed record keeping, and
  • Periodic testing to ensure that growers and handlers are meeting the standards which have been set.

OMRI - Organic Materials Review InstituteThe Organic Materials Review Institute (OMRI) provides organic certifiers, growers and manufacturers and suppliers a listing of input products for use in the production, handling and processing of goods which will comply with the National Organic Program.  One example of an input product is the fertilizer used in growing a crop.  It is not the fertilizer that can be certified organic, only the food or fiber produced with the fertilizer than can ultimately be certified (by the NOP). The OMRI listing generally reads, “OMRI listed for use in organic production,” and should be accompanied by the OMRI logo.  Again, OMRI does not certify food or fiber (or fertilizers) as organic: OMRI works with the USDA in complying with their standards.

Monty’s is proud to have our soil conditioners OMRI listed.  For those seeking to improve the condition of their soil while being in compliance with the National Organic Program, but without the labor-intensive, and often expensive, nature of other options, Monty’s Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner is a terrific product.

For additional insights on labeling, please visit our blog posts from June 6 and June 8, or visit these handy websites:

  • OMRI – information that organic farmers, handlers, certifiers, and other members of the organic community might find useful.

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Ask Monty’s – Labels that read “All Natural”

By nancyc on June 8, 2012

In our last post we covered the plant food and fertilizer labeling terms “Organic” and “OMRI Listed.” In our next post we’ll cover the term “Certified Organic.”

Today, we’ll address the moniker “All Natural,” for which there is no regulation.

There is a growing belief as society becomes greener that natural is always better – better for individual health and for the environment. For this reason, many companies use that term to entice you into buying their product.

Using the term “all natural” is not federally regulated and is used by companies as a marketing tool. Just how “natural” a product is and how beneficial it will be is largely determined by the company itself.  Rather than muddying the waters further let me explain what Monty’s means when we use the term.

Some of our products, like our Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner, are OMRI listed for use in organic production.  Some, like our fertility products, are not. However, we can tell you, in full confidence, that our plant food products are naturally-sourced and derived.

How important that distinction is to you will be based on your objectives.  For example, if you are hoping to sell your vegetables in a local market as an organic product, then you could definitely use our Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioners but we could not recommend our plant foods to you for that purpose.

However, if you are simply looking for a product with superior performance and that is not harmful to you, your family and animals, or the environment, then you can use our naturally-derived plant food products with confidence.

I hope this helps. I know it can be a bit overwhelming. For more assurance and to help you purchase with confidence I would encourage you to develop a relationship with an independent garden center retailer so they can help guide you to products — like Monty’s Plant and Soil Products — that will help you achieve your goals.

Listed below are some handy links to OMRI, USDA and organic growing websites.  Also, refer to our post from June 6, for information about the terms “organic” and “OMRI listed.” And stay tuned for our next post about the term “certified organic.”

  • OMRI – information that organic farmers, handlers, certifiers, and other members of the organic community might find useful.

  • USDA Organic Roots Collection – electronic collection of historic documents published before 1942 – a time before synthetic chemicals became widely used.  Find state-of-the-art information and data that is still pertinent for today’s organic and sustainable agriculture.

  • HowToGoOrganic.com – The Organic Trade Association offers this resource to help cultivate the growth of organic farming.

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Ask Monty’s – “Organic” versus “All Natural” labels

By nancyc on June 6, 2012

What is the difference between plant food or fertilizer labels that read “Organic SoilOrganic” and “All Natural?”
Derek, Calera, Alabama

Derek:
That is a good question and one that can be a bit confusing, so I’m going to address “Organic” in this post, “All Natural” in the next posting and “Certified Organic” in yet a third blog post.  Let’s look at “organic” first. It should be understood, as your question implies that there is definitely a difference between “all natural” and “organic” when it comes to plant food or fertilizers – and especially food products.  The terms are not interchangeable.

Organic fertilizers come from all-natural sources such as selected animal manures, mined rock powders, blood meal, feather meal, cottonseed meal, alfalfa meal, bone meal, fish extracts and seaweed by-products.  Simply put, organic fertilizers are derived from animal or vegetable matter.  Beyond that simple definition, though, things get a bit confusing.

The federal government has attempted to implement regulations on what it means to be “organic,” primarily with regard to the production of food and fiber.  A fertilizer company could place the word “organic” on most any fertilizer product it chooses to, and some do. After all, as we become a much “greener” society, these types of words have great power in the marketplace. In these cases the word really has little meaning at all, and may only refer to the fact that there is organic — or carbon-based — content, without any verification that all of the ingredients meet specifications set out by the National Organic Program (see below).  Therefore, the burden of proof and the task of sorting out these claims is on the government and the consumer.

Second — and this is where it gets even more confusing — is determining just how organic is “organic.”  For example, a company could blend cow manure with water and claim it is organic and it would be.  But the products produced by that fertilizer still may not qualify under the guidelines of the National Organic Program (NOP) instituted by the federal government.  This is where the organization known as the Organic Materials Research Institute (OMRI) OMRI - Organic Materials Review Institutecomes in.  OMRI is an independent, non-profit institution which serves as the gatekeeper for products which meet the requirements of the NOP.  Input products cannot be labeled “certified organic“: rather, OMRI uses the term “OMRI Listed” for products which may be used in the production of organic food and fiber, under the guidelines of the NOP. Furthermore, the term “certified organic” can only legally apply to food or fiber products.

Use of the term “organic” on fertilizers is generally not regulated. Some of the products listed by OMRI are not, in fact, organic.  Due to a provision in their guidelines for becoming “OMRI Listed,” a non-organic product can be a listed product if no close, non-synthetic substitute exists.

Let’s try to summarize.

  • Products that claim to be organic may or may not be.
  • OMRI lists certain “raw materials” which may be used in the production of organic finished goods, but they do not technically certify the input products.  All they do is say this material will not disqualify the end product from participation in the National Organic Program.
  • The National Organic Program certifies producers and products, but only of finished goods, i.e., food and fiber.
  • In the end, much of what is meant by the term organic is based on the reliability of the company making the claim.

If you are looking for a product that you can use with confidence in your lawn or garden, buy from a reputable dealer who sells products from reliable companies, and look for the “OMRI Listed” designation . Even at that, though, Caveat Emptor!

Stay tuned for our next blog post about the term “All Natural.”  In the meantime, here are some handy links:

  • OMRI – information that organic farmers, handlers, certifiers, and other members of the organic community might find useful.

  • USDA Organic Roots Collection – electronic collection of historic documents published before 1942 – a time before synthetic chemicals became widely used.  Find state-of-the-art information and data that is still pertinent for today’s organic and sustainable agriculture.

  • HowToGoOrganic.com – The Organic Trade Association offers this resource to help cultivate the growth of organic farming.

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Ask Monty’s – Indoor Gardening Tips

By nancyc on February 17, 2012

Christmas cactus

Christmas cactus

Pruning a Christmas Cactus
“When is the best time to prune my unruly Christmas cactus? It’s budding out and will have tons of beautiful flowers on it before it is done blooming, but I’d like to shape it up better as it’s very out of control at this point.  I’m a little hesitant though because I don’t want to risk killing it.”

Nicollettel, Paden City, West Virginia

Nicollette:
The best time to pinch, prune or shape a Christmas cactus is when the new growth begins in March or early April. In addition, the best time for repotting a cactus is in February, March or April. However, keep in mind the plant will flower best if it’s kept in a container where it’s pot-bound.
________

Pruning a Christmas Cactus to Add Volume
“My Christmas Cactus has quit blooming finally and I noticed it looks kind of leggy.  How can you get a Christmas Cactus to fill out more?  Is it even possible?”

Dean, Woolwine, Virginia

Dean:
Sure it is!  And it’s easy!  Give the plant a few weeks of rest then just cut off a few segments from each stem – which you can easily determine.  Don’t let the fleshy segments scare you off.  This pruning, like any other plant, will help the plant become bushier and fuller next year.  You can also plant those cut off segments to propagate new plants very easily, so don’t pitch them in the garbage!

When propagating any plant from cuttings, don’t forget to give it the nutrition it needs to help establish those early root systems.  By mixing Monty’s 2-15-15 at rates as low as 1 drop per cup of water you can provide the nutrition it needs to root and begin growing successfully. You’ll soon have enough plants to give starters to your friends, just don’t forget to give them a little Monty’s when you do.  That will be the gift that keeps on growing!

One last reminder, pruning – even during dormancy – can still be a form of stress for the plant. Make sure you help your plants deal with this, and any other, stress by providing the nutrition they need.  One ounce per gallon of water of the appropriate Monty’s plant food for the current growth stage will help your plants and landscape perform at their peak.
_________

Saving your Poinsettia
“I still have my Poinsettia from the holidays and it still looks very nice overall.  I always repot them right after I buy one because it seems like the water runs right through the soil, which seems to be the norm for retail Poinsettias.  Regardless, my plant lives on a window sill in bright, indirect sunlight, but some of the leaves are developing black marks on their leaves.  What could be causing that? I know they are not getting sun burned.”

Cailley, Greendale, Indiana

Cailley:
The leaves are probably touching the window itself and the cold is damaging the leaves.  You are right on about the bright, indirect sunlight, but make sure it is away from cold room drafts, heaters or anything hot or cold that can come in contact with the plant.
One last note, anytime you repot a plant, “root dip” the plant in a solution of Monty’s 2-15-15 at a rate of 1 oz. per gallon of water.  Once transplanted, you can water-in your plant with any remaining solution.  This is true whether you are repotting, or transplanting potted plants to a more permanent home in your landscape.  This one step will go a long way toward eliminating transplant shock.
______

Dracaena

Spots on Dracaena
“Why does my Dracaena have whitish brown spots on the leaves?

Kristin, Black Diamond, Washington

Kristin:
Sounds like you have some direct sun hitting the leaves of the plant and burning them.  Take notice of how the sun is coming in through the window and move your plant accordingly.  Even a light sheer on the window will help too.
________

Signs a Plant Needs Repotting
“How do you know when a plant needs to be repotted other than the obvious signs of seeing more roots exposed in the pot than dirt that should be covering them?”

Caren, Lombard, Illinois

Caren:
There are actually three pretty obvious signs that will tell you when a plant needs to be repotted – and you can see it through their leaves.

  • Dead leaves are one obvious sign.  If you are starting to get too many of them on a plant despite your normal care, chances are the problem is much deeper in the pot – literally.  The roots are growing too large and choking out the plant’s nutrients.  The dead leaves can also promote mold in the container and pests love that environment, so you can compound some problems here very easily.
  • Yellowing leaves usually prelude the obvious dead leaf sign, so pay attention to what your plant is telling you before you encounter the extreme.
  • The hardest sign to read is if a plant just doesn’t seem healthy before their leaves actually turn yellow and completely die.  If your plant suddenly starts to lack luster, stops growing and doesn’t respond to fertilizer, the plant is most likely root bound.

When repotting, make sure the new pot is at least four to six inches larger than the current one.  Be sure to loosen the roots up, knocking off the old soil to free them up so they have more breathing room and making them easier to spread out before repotting the plant.

The plant has been starving, due to its root-bound state so feel free to trim some of the roots back as well. Then, as always, feed it with Monty’s 2-15-15 at first to help it recover from stress and to promote the development of new roots and more importantly those fine root hairs that are essential for your plant to be able to absorb water and nutrients.  After it is reestablished you can move to one of the higher nitrogen formulas from Monty’s like 8-16-8 or 4-15-12 depending on the amount of top-growth you are trying to achieve.

A good rule of green thumb is anytime a plant has gone through any stress like transplanting, drought, flooding, or insect pressure, baby it first with 2-15-15, then help it grow with 8-16-8. Take care of the roots and the plant will respond.
__________

Terra Cotta Pots
“I was abruptly awakened out of a sound sleep recently when one of my large terra cotta pots full of Peace Lilies split, broke and fell apart.  What would have caused this right out of the blue? I’ve since repotted the plant, but didn’t use my usual terra cotta container as a choice, going to a ceramic pot instead.”

Hannah, Anaconda, Montana

Hannah:
I prefer the terra cotta pots myself because they come in so many different affordable sizes and shapes, but the drawback is that they will break very easily.  The larger ones are also quite heavy by the time you get your potting soil and plants in them and they do soak up water very quickly.  Your pot just may have worn out between the pot being watered and drying out, which can cause stress on those older pots.  Even the stress of the root ball pushing as it grows against the pot and the combination of it all can cause sudden breakage.  By switching to a ceramic pot the glaze will act as a seal on the pottery a little better, but you won’t get away from the weight.  They’re also a bit more expensive but come in beautiful shapes and unique glazing patterns that are hard to resist.
_________

“Rust” fungus
“What is rust on a plant? What does it look like?  Is it brown like rust?”

Rachael, Windsor, Colorado

Rachael:
First of all, rust is a fungus.  The symptoms are orange-yellow spots on leaves, followed by orange, fuzzy-looking spots on the underside of the leaves.  Not all plants are susceptible to it, so that’s one good thing. However, cypress and plants in the rose family such as crab apple, apple, hawthorn, hollyhock, pear and rose are.  Keep in mind that if one of your plants gets rust on it, get rid of the plant entirely to keep it from spreading to others around it.  That includes cleaning up any debris or infected fruit.  There are also fungicides on the market that can assist with any major infestations, but look at the label because not just any all service fungicide will take care of it.

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It Ain’t Called The Volunteer State For Nothin’

By Dennis on August 2, 2011

When I was much younger, though not raised on a farm, I was raised by a momma who was. And that is the next best thing I suppose.  It was from her that I learned to speak “country’ with the ease of a local using words and phrases like “on the halves,” “mess of beans,” and “good soakin’ rain.”  While other kids were watching Saturday Morning Cartoons, I was up around daybreak and headed out to a local farmer’s field she had discovered that week to pick green beans, or whatever was in season “on the halves”…now for you city-folk that means that you pick the beans for the farmer for free, in return you get to keep half of what you pick.  It is kind of a rural barter system that has worked for generations. Then throughout the week, while other kids got to just watch their TV shows in the evening, my mom believed that our TV was somehow mystically powered by the sound of snapping beans, shelling peas, shucking corn or whatever else was in season at the time.  She would give us a bucket full of the crop d’jour and we could keep watching TV as long as we were working on those crops.  If we stopped, the TV was turned off…and we had to finish working our vegetables anyway.  I am sure that I complained about it, you’ll have to ask momma.  But I also know that I did it and looking back on it, it was not a bad existence.  The real pay off came not only from a good work ethic, but from the tastes and smells of our country kitchen right in the middle of a Dallas suburb.

In addition to pickin on the halves at area farms momma also always raised a small garden of her own.  It was from there that I learned the joy of “volunteer” crops.  Volunteer crops are plants that come up on their own.  You didn’t plant them, didn’t plan on them, they were just God’s little extras. 

As a general rule the science behind this phenomenon is this, you raise a crop in year one, say corn for example. At some point during the year one of the kernels fall off of the cob either through the action of animals or harvest and lays there on the ground all winter.  In year two, as spring comes and you work the ground you accidentally cover up the seed with soil.  That’s all it takes.  Soon as the soil warms in the spring, the seed germinates and VIOLA! You now have a plant that you were not counting on…a volunteer plant.  Mostly these volunteer plants came up roughly in the area where they were planted the previous year.  But sometimes crops would come up in unexpected places or even from plants that you had never planted.  Those were the mysteries, the ones that made you scratch your head and say, “Now where on earth did THAT come from?”

I didn’t understand it then, but momma was always so excited by these extra blessings. I saw them as a nuisance.  It was the corn stalk that I had to work around when trying to cultivate the beans.  And may the Lord have mercy on you if you uprooted one of momma’s volunteer plants cause it was “in the way.”

Flash forward 25+ years. Now I am the one with the garden out back, pickin on the halves, and teachin my kids the value of shuckin corn. And this year, I built a retaining wall to hold a new flower bed in the front of our house.  I planted perennials, annuals, and some ground cover so that it could grow and develop into a great flower bed and add some color to the front of our house and our otherwise unremarkable landscape.  The one thing I did not plant was a tomato.

Imagine my surprise, then, when in early June, a small plant began to emerge right next to one of my purple pansies. I was about to uproot it along with the other weeds when it occurred to me, “That looks like a tomato plant.” I honestly have no idea where it came from; apparently it was in the leavings as a bird flew overhead and left a deposit. I was about to uproot it, but then the guilt and shame and my momma’s voice rang in my head and I didn’t dare. 

I thought, “Okay, we’ll see what this does. Who knows, we may get four or five tomatoes off of it.  It will be a great conversation piece and I can teach my kids about volunteer crops.”

This is one plant; one volunteer tomato plant.

6 weeks later and a few applications of Monty’s as I was spraying my flowers and it now OWNS my flower bed!  What I expected to be a small plant about two feet tall and spindly has far surpassed any of the cultivated and staked tomatoes out in my garden. This plant is at least 10 feet long, about 6 feet across, and 2.5 to three feet tall.  It has grown from its place in the center of the flower bed to where it is over-spilling my retaining wall on three sides and hanging over my porch on the fourth.  It, quite simply is massive, and full of fruit. (mostly cherry tomatoes). 

This volunteer tomato plant has overgrown the boundaries of my retaining wall flower bed and is spilling over the wall an about two feet out into my yard.

I knew that Tennessee, my current home, is nicknamed the Volunteer State.  I thought it had something to do with the historical nature of the residents to volunteer for battle when the country needed it.  Now I am beginning to suspect it may be due to their vegetables.

This volunteer tomato plant is the most productive plant I have this season. It came up on its own and has been left largely alone, jsut to see what it would do. Who knew?

Whatever the reason, the biggest, healthiest, and most productive tomato plant I have this season is a little plant that somehow mysteriously ended up in my flower bed. It is just a little something extra for a gardener who is just trying to learn and to put into practice all of those lessons I was taught following behind my mom with a bushel basket as we picked beans on the halves.

The lesson here for the rest of you.  Listen to my mom.  If it “comes up volunteer, leave it alone;” nature may be waiting to surprise you.  Now, if you’ll excuse me, I am going in to add a fresh sliced tomato to my sandwich and enjoy my lunch with a little extra blessing on the side.

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Controlling Squash Bugs in the Garden

By Dennis on July 14, 2011

A friend of mine from high school just reached out to me on my personal FB account and asked for some advice on controlling squash bugs because he had seen some of my posts related to my vegetable garden. I wrote him a response back, but then thought some of you may have the same questions.  So, I am reposting the letter I sent to him in hopes that you may benefit.

Hey Don,

Yeah I garden.  Like a fool!  It is kinda part of my job and part hobby.  My kids accuse me of being one of those people who when asked what time it is, teach people how to build a watch.  So, forgive me if I get long-winded. 

First, I am not sure what stage your squash bugs are, if they are still in the nymph stage or are full blown adults.  If they are full grown adults, control with chemicals is difficult, if not impossible.

Either way it is going to be work AND tedious.

Controlling nymphs and eggs.  Get a bucket of soapy water.  2-3 drops of any household dish soap in a gallon bucket is sufficient.  Walk around to the plants and look under the leaves (particularly those with damage) and look for eggs/nymphs.  Squash the eggs with your hands; knock the nymphs into the bucket of water, they will die quickly.  This process is made a bit more difficult because the nymphs will tend to scatter quickly when threatened. At this stage, the bugs are easiest to control.

Controlling adults – Sevin (I use liquid Sevin, but usually only once a year when insects are at their peak, and it is my ‘nuclear option’ so I can control things as organically as possible.) will control some of them but it will also kill bees, lady bugs, and other beneficial.  For this reason spray only when the flowers are closed (early morning, late evening) to limit impact on pollinators.

The best control methods are:

  1.  Keep as much plant debris cleaned up, remove dead leaves from the plant and make the environment as inhospitable as possible for them.
  2. Lay a shingle or piece of wood next to each plant in the evening.  As night falls, the squash bugs will congregate under the object as a hiding/nesting spot.  Then in the morning you can go and turn the wood/shingle over and easily collect the adults and either squash them by hand (they will stink similar to stink bugs) or knock them into a bucket of soapy water.
  3. Keep the plants well watered and well fertilized (this time of year use a low-to moderate N fertilizer with higher levels of  P & K; Monty’s 2-15-15 or Monty’s 4-15-12 are excellent and easy options). This will accomplish several things:
  • Insects are opportunists.  If you have ever watch an animal show on the discovery network, you know that the lion will cut the weak or the lame out from the herd because they are easier to bring catch and bring down. Same thing. Insects will attack your weakest plants first.  I don’t know how they know this, but they do.  (This is also a chance to learn from the bugs, they are telling you stuff about your garden.  So keeping them well fed, and well watered will keep them strong and make them less vulnerable.
  • High Brix levels, the measurement of the amount of sugars in a plants also seem to deter insects.  Don’t know why, just know in side by side studies that I have done, those plants with higher brix have less insect damage.
  • Squash plants grow very quickly and can easily grow past any damage done by a squash bug. Making sure they are healthy, well fertilized and well watered will help this.

My favorite control method is to do nothing.  That’s right.  I said do nothing.  Here’s why.  Once the plants are up and growing normally (controlling the bugs in the early stages of plant growth is imperative), there is not much the bugs can do to stop them.  The bugs tend to feed on the leaves, not the fruit – especially until the end of the season when the leaves are starting to wilt naturally.  By then I have enough squash put up to get me through the winter anyway, so any fruit I harvest after that is just gravy. Squash plants grow so rapidly that the impact of any one or even several bugs is going to be minimal and is easy for the plants to keep up with. Squash bugs have sucking/piercing mouth parts. Because fo this, they do not eat away your leaves like caterpillars or beetles do. These wounds will kill the leaves in the immediate area, so they will look spotty, but unless your plants are very small or your infestation is extremely large they just can’t do enough damage to prvent the flow of enough nutrients to impede plant/fruit development. Basically, the work required for complete control, for the benefits, attained just isn’t worth it to me. 

So to summarize, your options are: 

  • Scout and control manually with a bucket of soapy water.
  • Lay out a shingle or piece of wood each evening, collect and destroy the adults in the morning.
  • Use sevin or other labeled control as a nuclear option, use it in the evening or early morning once the flowers have closed to limit the impact on beneficial insects and pollinators like honeybees.
  • Keep them well-fed (fertilized), watered, and generally healthy.

OR

  • Do nothing once your plants are matured.  They won’t eat much, really

BTW…I don’t know if you do this or not…but I have found out this season that the male flowers from the squash plant are delicious!  Harvest one or two this evening and enjoy a squash blossom quesadilla or dip them in a relleno batter and fry them.  (You can also stuff them like a stuff bell pepper, roll them and either bake them, or dip them in batter and fry them.

Happy growing, and enjoy the NM sunshine, I know your squash are!

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Ask Monty’s 7/11/11: Coneflowers, Turnips, and Buggered by Broccoli Plants

By Dennis on July 11, 2011

Ask Monty’s: “I planted an awesome hosta bed under my old oak trees in a section of my yard and then dropped in some coneflowers behind them to add some color and height.  The first year everything was pretty well on their way to settling in and growing well.  The second year the coneflowers did okay, but this third year the hostas were outstanding and the coneflowers appeared to have all died, except for one lonely clump trying to hang on.  What happened here? 

Chevy – Topeka, Kansas

Chevy: You sort of lucked out getting those coneflowers to bloom at all.  The fact that your hostas are doing so well tells me the area is quite shaded –a hosta environment that they thrive in.  Coneflowers are a true wildflower and grow best in full sunny, well drained soil.  Your coneflowers are sun lovers and shade is not the place for them.

Ask Monty’s:  “I didn’t get around to planting my turnips this spring and was wondering if it’s too late to plant them now in July?”

Deann – Wiota, Wisconsin

Deann:  The one nice thing about turnips is that about the time other vegetables in your garden are winding down, turnips are turning out tasty tops and yummy meaty bulbs.  While often planted in the spring, if you want a winter crop they are best sowed in July or early August.  Late plantings are also less susceptible to turnip root maggot damage too.  If you decided to plant both a spring and summer turnip patch next year, they do make good companions for onions and peas in the garden, so keep that in mind.  But back to your question – plant those turnips now!

  Ask Monty’s: “I planted broccoli from seeds this year and it seemed to take forever for anything to come up.  The seeds were so small it was impossible to keep from getting them too thick in the furrows.  It was a nightmare and now they’ve all grown up and I’ve started pulling them out so there is more room between them to develop.  I don’t think I’ll ever plant them again?”

Stephanie – Nappanee, Indiana 

Stephanie: Don’t give up on your broccoli endeavors yet!  Wait until you taste that first fresh head and realize how much your effort paid off.  But yes, planting by seed directly into the ground is a test of patience for those little, bitty seeds like radishes, carrots and celery as well to name a few.  If a person has the room, sowing the seeds inside in early spring in trays gives you a major head start and gives the little plants a good head start after you’ve weeded out the ones that got too close together.  You can also buy seed strips that have the seeds on a biodegradable material and, pre-spaced that you just lay down in the furrow, cover with dirt and wait for them to come up. They’re a little pricey, but definitely easier. Since I only plant for small family usage, I do buy the plants already started in the spring from my local greenhouse.  They come in four or six packs with a good head start, so putting them directly in the soil where they need to be is a lot less stressful for me. I’m not much for seed starting either, but have to have that broccoli in my garden! 

One last note on broccoli, don’t expect to see them with the large softball sized heads that you see in the grocery store.  Those are grown by farmers and usually with a volume of chemicals and fertilizers that you, as a home gardener, would neither want, need, afford, or be able to attain.  The heads will be smaller, but sweeter and, overall, better than their mass produced-counterparts. Plant your heads plants in the ground about two per week until you’ve planted the deisred number or have filled your row.  By doing this you will extend your growing season and have fresh-from-the-garden broccoli for several weeks.  If doing that requires too much patience, then you can plant them all at once, just be prepared to preserve them.  Borccoli do well in the freezer if they are par-boiled for about 2 minutes, run under cool water, dried as well as possible then cut into florets and frozen in zip-top baggies.

Oh, and don’t forget, like the turnips and other veggies metnioned above…broccoli and cauliflower can start going in the ground in the last third of July in the far Northern US through late August in the Deep South (check with local county agents for exact timing) for wonderful fresh fall veg crops.

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Ask Monty’s 7/6/11: Veggies for Novices, Something Dandy about Dandelions, and Swiss Chard

By Dennis on July 6, 2011

Ask Monty’s: “People make dandelion wine out of the weed’s flowers, but an old-timer recently told me you can eat the leaves too. Is this true?”

Heidi
Boalsburg, Pennsylvania

Heidi:Yes, the entire dandelion is edible despite its bad rap as a common yard weed. It’s an acquired taste and most recently I discovered a recipe in a copy of an old Mother Earth News magazine for dandelion greens sautéed in olive oil and molasses and served over a baked potato. The flower is also used as an edible garnish in many upper end restaurants, despite it’s number one popularity as a wine ingredient.

Ask Monty’s: “What is Swiss Chard exactly? Is it easy to grow? I’ve been told it tastes a lot like spinach, but it doesn’t look like it.”

Susan
Caney, Kansas

Susan: Swiss Chard is the forerunner of beets and a close cousin to spinach. In the kitchen, cooked chard can stand in for spinach in any recipe, while the crisp ribs of the plant can be steamed or grilled like asparagus. The beauty of chard as a garden plant is that chard tolerates light frost as well as the heat of summer. There are three types of chard I would recommend you take a closer look at. White-stemmed chard out performs their more colorful counterparts in terms of productivity and resistance. Bright colored varieties are the top of the line edible ornamentals when it comes to vegetables, but perpetual varieties have thinner stems and smaller, smoother leaves than large varieties, but they taste more like spinach than the other varieties. With perpetual varieties the more leaves you pick, the more new ones emerge from the crowns, thus reflected in their name.

Ask Monty’s: “If you had to name the top five easiest vegetables to grow, what would they be? I’m a new gardener, so I am going to need some instant gratification to keep my confidence level up. What vegetables do you think make the best use of time and garden space?”

Ronald
Golden, Colorado

Ronald:  Gardening is always an exploration of trial and error because everyone’s garden habits, patience levels and environments are different, so please keep that in mind. It’s a very rewarding hobby, great contribution to your grocery bill and creates an enormous amount of satisfaction when you take that first bite out of that garden fresh tomato, green bean or squash.

That said, regarding your questions there has been a lot of research done on these particular subjects and they do vary from region to region. Research tells me radishes, lettuce, bush snap beans, rhubarb and cherry tomatoes are listed as the top five. For me, radishes and lettuce took a few tries before I finally got it right, so my picks would be bush snap beans, rhubarb, cherry tomatoes, asparagus and green peppers. Squash is pretty easy too, but does take up a lot of room. I even slip my green pepper and broccoli into my flower beds as nice green back drops to other plants and utilize the space that way.

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