Reducing (or even eliminating) Transplant Shock

By Dennis on April 7, 2011

The Root of the Problem

Transplant Shock happens when plants are moved.  Unlike humans, plants were not designed to be shuffled around. In nature, once a plant is rooted, that is where it stays.  However, we are always waiting to change and design our environment and that means moving plants; either planting new annuals every year or moving, cutting, and thinning existing plants to more aesthetically pleasing areas. So, transplant shock happens when you move plants, but why?

The answer is all in the roots.  We tend to talk about roots as if they were one ubiquitous mass.  They are, in reality, not a mass but a system with individual parts serving particular functions.  The tap root is one or two long, thick roots that generally go straight down, deep into the soil. Think of this root as the “trunk” of your plant.  This root serves to access deep reserves of water, to add structural integrity, and to provide a wedge which breaks up the soil and allows for development of the second set of roots.  This second set is somewhat smaller and grow out laterally from the main tap root.  If the tap root is the “trunk”, these are the limbs and like limbs they stretch out, cross each other, and provide bulk.  The main function of these roots is to provide stability, serve as an anchor to the plant to keep it from moving, and to hold the soil so that the plant can get the water and nutrients it needs from its environment.  They also serve as host for the most important roots.  The third set of roots is the hair-like feeder roots.  These roots are very small, even on the biggest plants.  They are thin, wiry, and about the size of a human hair.  The ends, or growing points, are the only place where the plant can actually take up nutrients and the majority of water. Without getting too deep into the science, this is where the microbes and beneficial bacteria thrive and do their job of converting minerals into nutrients.

The problem with these feeder roots is even though they are vital to the plant, they are also the most susceptible to damage.  Some research shows that exposure to the air for even 3-4 minutes is enough to cause them to dry out and die.  They are also very easy to break. So, when you transplant the plants, even if you are careful, it is very easy to disturb this section of the root system and when you do, it takes the plant time to replace them.  Until then, the plant is getting very little nutrition or water. The plant enters survival mode, any flower is jettisoned as it fights to allocate stored resources for survival rather than reproduce.  As more resources are required to re-grow these vital roots, (and because it is getting no nutrition) it wilts. And this reaction is what is known as transplant shock.

So what can you do? Here are a few tips:

1) Be as gentle as possible.  Handle the root ball of the transplants as carefully as possible.  But know this. Even though you are careful, the feeder roots are so delicate they are going to break; it’s inevitable.

2) Prepare the new home.  Even if you are planting into the ground, you will want to provide a new home that is delicate.  Heavy clay soils are generally compacted and hard for the tiny roots to penetrate so mix some of the host soil with sand or soilless media and fill the hole loosely BEFORE transplanting.  Then remove just enough of the soil to make room for the new plant. 

3) Make sure the transplant is not root bound.  There should be a good amount of roots at the outer edges but they should not be circling around the root zone in a solid mass of white.  If they are, they will need a haircut, either by actually cutting and freeing some of the roots or by pulling them away to thin them out. This will kill of some of the feeder roots, but will cause fewer problems in the long term. You should introduce the plant to its new home as quickly as possible. I usually root-dip my plants for 10 minutes or so in a weak solution of Monty’s 4-15-12 or 2-15-15 (1 ounce per gallon of water) prior to placing them in the new environment.  This loosens up their native soil and gives them a quick shot of energy. Then once all the plants are in, I water them in with any remaining solution. The picture to the right is lettuce and spinach two days after transplanting.  Notice no signs of shock or wilt. You should place the plant its new environment just deep enough so that the stem and root ball is below ground level. Once the plant is in place back fill with the soilless/host soil mix. Be carefull not to press the soil around the plant as this can lead to problems with compaction.

4) Feed the plant. Some experts advise putting a bit of fertilizer in the bottom of the new home prior to transplanting. I have done it both ways and have not noticed much difference either way.  USE A LOW SALT, LOW NITROGEN fertilizer.  Nitrogen can burn even healthy plant material, much less tender feeder roots. Plus, nitrogen is the nutrient responsible for growth.  There will be a time for that, but now it is too early.  One of the biggest problems I see with zealous homeowners is giving the plant too much nitrogen too quickly.  This is especially true for perennials and larger transplants like trees and shrubs.  For these, I recommend very little nitrogen at all for the first full season.  Here’s why.  Nitrogen generates growth.  The mere presence of the nutrient tells the plant to get bigger, taller, and put on more leaves.  If you do that, and do not have an underlying root system to support this vigorous growth a few things can happen:  One, the plant will become top heavy and a strong wind will uproot the plant because there are not enough anchors holding it place. Two, and this is the biggest problem.  You know that droughts are going to happen.  When they do, the plant needs a good root system to access available sub-soil moisture reserves.  If, by applying nitrogen, you have spurred top-growth you have increased the burden on the plant by giving it more leaves, stems, and flowers to maintain and by not giving it the root system that it needs to provide the water and nutrients it is starving for. Instead of nitrogen, look for a fertilizer that is relatively higher in potassium and phosphorous (the second two numbers on the label).  These are the nutrients that a plant uses to develop good root systems and the ones you need to ensure successful transplants. 

By using a product like Monty’s 2-15-15 or 4-15-12 you can give the plant what it needs, and according to gardeners across the country, as well as my own experience, virtually eliminate transplant shock.  Get more details on transplanting in our how-to guides on our website. While this is still true for annuals, it is not as critical, cause let’s face it, you will be throwing them away in 6 months anyway.  Give them a week or two to settle in, then you can start using a higher nitrogen fertilizer.  The low-salt issue is still a concern so I recommend using Monty’s 8-16-8.  It’s high in nitrogen, but it has one of the lowest salt indexes on the market.

5) Water.  Believe it or not, most homeowners are so afraid of under-watering their new plants, that they go too far and over water them.  Over-watering is just as bad.  It depletes oxygen form the soil, collapses pore space, compacts the soil, and creates an environment ideal for developing anaerobic bacteria (the bad ones) which leads to rot, disease, and can increase the likelihood of insect problems.  If you are watering your plants keep them evenly moist so that they have to grow their roots both out and down.  this will give you a better anchor and will get feeder roots out of the topsoil.  If the roots stay in the upper reaches of the soil profile you will end up fighting drought conditions throughout the life of the plant as this layer of soil is the first to dry out in the hot dry days of summer.  To accomplish this, stick your finger about an inch deep into the soil (up to your first knuckle) at the edge of the drip line.  If the soil does not feel noticeably damp at your fingertip, it is time to water.

By following these few simple guidelines and by incorporating Monty’s Fertilitly Products you can get your plants off to the best start possible and virtually eliminate transplant shock.

Posted in , , , Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , Leave a Comment

Wiggly, Squiggly, Subterranean Farmers

By Dennis on April 5, 2011

Earthworms. Just the sound of them can make guys happy and girls squeamish.  I remember chasing the neighborhood girls through the yard with an earth worm dangling from my fingers as I threatened to throw it on them.  Well, time has moved on, I no longer chase girls through the neighborhood, and I have found a greater use for earthworms (yes, even besides bait).

Earthworms serve two functions for me in my garden and flower beds.

First they are the proverbial “canary in a coal mine”. Simply by their presence they let me know that everything is okay.  Even before I ship my soil off to be tested, I can be relatively certain that I have a reasonable amount of organic matter and that my pH is neither too acidic or too alkaline if i see earthworms wriggling about.

Secondly, they help me till and fertilize.  The tunnels they create beneath the soil provide channels for air and water to move through the soil profile. The air is necessary for good nitrogen and CO2 exchange with the air…yes Virginia, plants can get nitrogen from the air (it is a two step process involving nitrogen fixing bacteria and nitrifying bacteria in the soil, but good aeration makes it possible). 

For the most part, the tunnels are not created by simply squeezing through the soil but by them actually consuming the soil and other decaying organic matter laying in the soil.  As with all living things, what they consume is partly used in their own bodies what is unused is eliminated through effluent material (casts).  Earthworm Casts are high in nitrogen, phosphates, and potash. Consider this if you have just 10 earthworms in a square foot of soil you will have 800 lbs of earthworms per acre.  The worms will provide you with 40 tons of castings annually which will equal 1 lb of actual N, 12 lbs of phosphorous, 28.5 lbs of potash, 36 lbs of magnesium, and 200 lbs of calcium.  Earthworm castings also improve the water holding capacity of your soil, reduce erosion, and improve nutrient availability. One earthworm can digest up to 36 tons of soil per year according to the US Soil Conservation Offices.

Worms are great indicators of the overall health of your soil, especially in terms of biological activity. If you have earthworms, chances are that you also have all of the beneficial microbes and bacteria that make for healthy soil and strong plants. So how do you check for earth worms.  Grab a shovel and lets go out to the garden:

Be sure the soil has warmed to at least 55 degrees, and that it is at least somewhat moist, but not soaking wet.

  1. Dig a hole one foot across and one foot deep. Place the soil on a tarp or piece of cardboard.
  2. Sift through the soil with your hands as you place it back into the hole, counting the earthworms as you go.

If you find at least ten worms, your soil is in pretty good shape. Less than that indicates that there may not be enough organic matter in your soil to support a healthy worm population, or that your soil is too acidic or alkaline.

If you do find fewer worms than what you had hoped for, how can you encourage higher populations. 

1. Keep the soil evenly moist.  Too much water and they will flee their burrows, too little and they will dry out and die. Evenly moist soil should feel like a wrung out sponge.

2. Add up to 3 inches of organic mulch over the surface of your garden.  If you are buying it, this can get expensive.  However there are affordable and free composts available, if you are willing to look.

3. Add NON-PROTEIN food scraps to your compost.  things like produce trimmings, coffee grounds, and tea bags work great.

4. Be careful about the amount and the kinds of pesticides and chemicals you apply.  Broad spectrum pesticides can also reduce your earthworm (and other beneficials) populations. When possible opt for natural remedies that are targeted to specific pests.

5. Use compost or manure teas for fertility.  Chemical fertilizers increase the acidity and salt content of soil which repels earthworms.  Monty’s offers a complete line-up of fertility products that are very low in salt and are all naturally derived products that will not effect the pH of your soil.  This makes these products an ideal choice for fertilizers (without the hassle and malodorous nature of the compost teas and manure teas.)

6. Use Monty’s Liquid Carbon to create a favorable soil environment that will help create a favorable environment for all soil microbes and organic material.

Posted in , Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , Leave a Comment

Ask Monty’s 4/3/11: Nettles, Onions, and Burrs, Oh My!

By Dennis on April 4, 2011

Weeds are everywhere this time of year.  They are in your lawn and obviously on your mind as our mailbag has been full of questions about them.  This week our Ask Monty’s segment is dedicate to all of those pesky, unwanted invasive species.

First, just for information’s sake.  There is no scientific definition or classification of a weed.  A weed, by definition, is any unwanted plant.  Therefore, any plant, even a rose or tulip can be a weed if it is growing in an area where you do not want it to be.  When commercial gardening stores and manufacturers talk of weeds they are generally speaking collectively about a group of grasses and plants that are commonly thought undesirable.  For example, consider dandelions.  They are the bane of my existence.  However, in the culinary world, people like the bitter, peppery flavor of dandelion greens in salads.  So, even though I cannot imagine it, some people actually cultivate them and there are even farmers who raise them as a cash crop!

All weeds serve a purpose, it is only when they violate our plans and living spaces that they become problems. So use care in eradicating all of them. They may be providing you with benefits that you are not aware of or could be helping to tell you a story about the condition of your soil. Listen to them, work with them when you can.

That said, I know how frustrating they can be and fight the good fight against some of them myself.  Here are some questions and answers that have been on your minds lately.  Oh, and if you have additional questions either post them in the comments section or e-mail me at pallan@montysplantfood.com .

Ask Monty’s:

“We recently bought 50 wooded acres in the country as sort of a place to getaway on the weekends.  It’s a great camping spot, but when I let our dogs out to run they came back covered in burrs!  I have never seen so many of them.  Is there a way to get rid of them?”

 Gayleen
American Fork, Utah

 Gayleen:

Meet the cocklebur, one of the most annoying, evasive weeds found throughout the entire United States except in Alaska.  Their most notable characteristic is their abundance of spiney burrs that have hook-tipped spines that easily attach themselves to clothing, fur or passing, happy dogs playing.  Often referred to as “hitchhikers,” that’s how they seem to spread so easily by attaching themselves to anything that moves.

However, these horrible plants do have to have the right growing conditions to thrive in areas that are washed out, wetlands, disturbed areas, drainage channels, or in unattended fields.

In addition, their seeds and seedlings are also poisonous.  Animals rarely eat them unless they get in their grazing paths, but children and young people have been made seriously ill and have even died from eating the seeds, which both look and taste like sunflower seeds.

The best way to get rid of these weeds is to apply weed killer in the fall and spring.  Your local farm store, extension service or larger nurseries will be able to advise you on what is the most aggressive product to use.

One of the things to try this season if you are looking for a total kill with a ‘round-up’ like product containing glyphosate is adding Monty’s NanoBoost.  It is an herbicide additive that dramatically improves the efficiency and kill rate of glyphosate and 2,4-D based herbicides.  This product is only available from our agricultural dealers at this point, but with Southern States Co-ops now on board it should be fairly easy to find in the Eastern third of the country. Or you can call toll free and order it direct.  Read more about NanoBoost, here.  Then call us at 800-978-6342 to order NanoBoost.

Ask Monty’s:

“Last summer I noticed I had a lot of strange, thick-leafed patches of grass in my lawn.  A friend told me that it looked like wild onion.  Curious of course, and because it was obviously unsightly and out of place on the lawn, I dug one up to discover it had bulbs like an onion.  Am I going to see more of this in the spring?  If so, how do I get rid of it?  Is it poisonous, as I have pets and I’m afraid my cat may mistake it for catnip?”

Riza
Nicholasville, Kentucky

 Riza:

Wild Onions are harmless weeds, but they do stick up boldly out of a manicured lawn, looking very similar to an onion plant.  They are found all over the world and grow wildly, although some species are treated as culinary delicacies.  Nonetheless, having them come up in unwanted areas does not redeem their weed qualities.  They grow in the fall to early winter and can be controlled through post-emergent broadleaf weed killer on individual plants.

 Ask Monty’s:

“I have a patch of stinging nettles sprouting up in the corner of my yard, an area that I just haven’t had the time to maintain as well as I should.  What’s the easiest way to get rid of these?  They aren’t bothering anything, but I think I should get rid of it.”

 Carly
Abbeville, South Carolina

 Carly:

Stinging nettles and common nettles are one and the same: vicious weeds that are not pleasant to come in contact with no matter what.  It’s a perennial like most weeds, so unless you get rid of it soon, it will spread and become an even bigger problem year after year with its finger-like roots.  It’s hard to believe that some people will harvest it and cook it for its nutritional value.  

When eradicating this weed you can either go after it with an all-over weed killer in the winter or early spring or manually remove them by cutting them to the ground with a hedge trimmer and then digging up their roots.  Once you get rid of the roots though spray a herbicide over the area for extra measure.

Posted in , , , , Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , Leave a Comment

One of the Worst Gardening Chores Made Easy

By Dennis on April 1, 2011

Most people, when you ask them why they don’t garden; or if they do garden if you ask what they hate about it will tell you weeding.  I am no different.  I hate weeding, that is one of the reasons i con my kids into helping me do it.  Well, my plan backfired on me.  My oldest child, my son, is now working a ‘real job’ and is graduating this spring.  So, I was faced with a thirty percent reduction in my work-force.

I happened to see a commercial on TV for a Mantis Tiller.  Now, with a background in media, I am naturally skeptical of ads; especially for over-hyped tv products. But, I was desperate for some other option other than chemicals or spending 1-2 hours a day out in my veg garden weeding. I finally gave in, if nothing else, to help me keep the morning glories at bay until my veg crops can get big enough to out-compete them.

This is not an endorsement of their product.  I do not sell them, Monty’s does not sell them nor are we suggesting you should buy one.  However, since I did purchase one  and since this blog is all about gardening, I thought I would share my experience.

I purchased the model that came pre-assembled.  All I had to do was pull it out of the box tighten the handles, fill it with a fuel/oil mix and go.  My garden is too small for this size tiller but I believe it will still come in handy for weeding/cultivating. I have not planted my garden yet because it is still a bit cold and way too wet so I decided to experiment with the new tiller in these flower beds. On this day I would be using it for two purposes 1) to renovate two flower beds 2) to edge my yard with the optional edger attachment.

The two flower beds were suffering from years of relative neglect and from encroaching Bermuda grass.  I love Bermuda grass.  It is hardy, it chokes out other weeds and looks good once it is warm enough to green up.  However, it has one problem.  It grows from rhizomes and refuses to stay where you want it.  It will invade everywhere and can be a real nuisance in flower beds.

You can see for yourself the job the tiller did on the front flower bed…total time, about 10 minutes.  The bed is a mixture of compost I have laid on top since last summer and native, moderately heavy clay soil.

After using the Mantis in this limited setting, these are my thoughts.

Starting – I have a gas weed trimmer and this is easier to crank than it.  Though, I recommend the quick-start option. If you let the tiller set and cool for even five minutes, you will have to re-prime it and use the choke to get it started again.  Otherwise it starts quickly.

Ease of use – Very easy, and very light.  It has a black handle by the engine and I was easily able to carry it where ever I needed it, one handed. (there is another grip if you want to use both hands. The speed controls are located on the right handgrip and easy to operate with your thumb and index finger. The thumb-controlled safety switch guarentees that you will no accidentally engage the tines.

Effectiveness – Very effective.  It chewed through everything:  Small roots, Bermuda grass rhizomes, thatch and compacted soil.  The trick is to keep it moving in a back and forth motion.  If you want to go deep, it will easily go down to about 7-10 inches.  The only drawback is that it does tend to pile up dirt behind it so you need to keep it moving.  This little tiller made the job of getting rid of the Bermuda grass and working my compost into the clay soil a snap.  I am looking forward to seeing what it does on morning glories in the veg garden this summer.

If you do have Bermuda grass, the rhizomes do tend to get wrapped around the tine axle. I had to clean mine off by disassembling the tines between flower beds.  However, that said, the cleaning process only required removing two cotter pins and took all of about 3 minutes.

As an edger – Okay, so maybe it was too much to hope for.  Once you start asking any product to do something other than that which it was originally designed, you run into some problems.  First, the optional edger attachment is easy to put on (see removing tines in the paragraph above).  It did cut through the soil and grass fairly easily and did establish a decent, if not perfect, edge.  In fact, it probably put a more consistent edge on my lawn than my weed trimmer does.    The biggest problems were in design.  It does not have a guide or a guard so it is hard to keep it next to the driveway/sidewalk without occasionally hitting the pavement.  I can see where this could lead to chipping and scarring the edge of the concrete, given time, and for some (me) that is unacceptable.  So If I were to give it a grade as an edger, I would say B-.

All in all, it is light, and it is effective.  It is a purchase that I am glad I made.  Though I would not count on it for heavy tilling or tilling extremely large areas (My garden plot is 150′ x 75).  I think it might be able to do it, but at only 9 inches wide, it would take forever.

Posted in , , , , Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , Leave a Comment

How to Prune Roses, Correctly

By Dennis on December 7, 2010

In out last blog, in response to a question raised by a local gardener, we discussed some of the things that are typically done incorrectly when pruning roses. I have always been frustrated by those who tell me everything I am doing incorrectly, but then fail to tell me the right thing to do instead. So to that end, we went to the expert: Monty Justice. With our video camera in hand we asked him to show us what he does in his garden each fall to achieve and maintain the championship quality roses he produces from his garden every year.

In this video Monty discusses “Pre-Pruning.”  Pre-Pruning helps to give the plant its basic shape for next season, as well as working preventatively to reduce insect and disease pressure next season.

As always, feel free to get in touch with us with any questions you may have regarding Monty’s products, or with your own lawn and garden questions.

Posted in , , Tagged , , , , , Leave a Comment

Ask Monty’s for 11/28/10: Sunflowers, Horseradish, and Starting a Greenhouse Business

By Dennis on November 29, 2010

Ask Monty’s:

“I’ve planted some skyscraper sunflowers over the past couple of summers, but it never fails that a wind or storm will come up and creates havoc with them, causing them to bend or snap in half.  They get about 12 feet high and are pretty neat, but are there other sunflowers that may not be as tall and a little more durable that you could suggest?”

Jackson
Chelsea, Oklahoma

Jackson:

There are quite a few varieties on the market that will serve your purpose.  Furry “Teddy Bear” and dwarf “Sunspot” sunflowers come to mind immediately.  They grow to only about three feet tall and are actually perfect for containers.  But if you don’t want to give up THAT much height, “Velvet Queen” and “Italian White” grow about six feet tall and do well planted against a sunny spot of the house – which will help protect them too.  “Autumn Beauty and “Ring of Fire” grow to about four to five feet in height.  If you’re looking for something a little more permanent, there is a perennial variety called “Flore Pleno” or Capenoch Star” you may want to check out.  The only downside is that they have smaller flowers than your annuals, but they’re terrific for cutting in fall arrangements.

Ask Monty’s:

“Is it hard to transplant horseradish?  A friend wants to give me some since it’s sort of taking over her garden, but neither of us knows how to do it.”

RanPaul
Wheeling, West Virginia

RanPaul:

You simply dig the plants up in either the spring before they really get going or in the early fall after you’ve harvested some.  Make sure you dig down at least twice as deep as your piece of horseradish root is long to provide loose soil for the long taproot that it has.  Water your new plants well and regularly to make sure they get settled in properly.   Overall, they are very easy to transplant and have little trouble adjusting as long as they are in a nice sunny location.

Ask Monty’s:

“I am a pipefitter/welder by trade. I am tired after working 30 years. My grandfather used to grow carnations when I was a kid and they were beautiful. I want to do the same for a hobby, but also eventually work to maybe to make it into a business. I would like to get started. Is it possible with a greenhouse type setting or even indoors? I have some knowledge of indoor growing with lights, soil and nutrients and have had some success. Can a person start a very small business and be successful at it?”

Abe
Devers, Texas

Abe:

Growing carnations to meet the American demand is big business – and done both in natural and greenhouse environments, so absolutely you can grow carnations in an indoor or greenhouse setting. When it comes to pursuing a business endeavor, large or small scale, I would recommend a greenhouse environment with natural light and grow lights for use only as needed.  And, most importantly it will allow you to control the environment in which they are growing in.

Carnations need full sun to light shade and must have at least 4-5 hours of full sun each day for good flowering success. They like light, fertile, well-drained soil which is slightly alkaline (pH 6.75).  Clay soil is an absolute no-no. Be mindful of not over watering carnations and good air circulation is needed around the stems at all times to avoid disease.

Yuai Nursery in Salinas, California, is the largest grower of carnations in the U.S., where South America is the leading producer in the world. There are smaller producers around the country, but they are not exclusive to carnations only for business survival purposes.

Posted in , Tagged , , Leave a Comment

Monty’s Rose Care Calendar: October

By Dennis on October 4, 2010

Continue maintenance program until hard frost or freeze occurs.  Meteorologicallly speaking, a hard frost is defined as temperatures at 28 degrees Fahrenheit or colder for at least four consecutive hours.   Apply Monty’s Plant Food (2-15-15)  to the leaves of your roses with minimal amounts of water for the soil. ( Click here to order) This product thickens the cells of the plants, and helps them retain elasticity, which may protect the canes from winter damage.  The more you can do now to protect your canes through the winter and to increase the likelihood that they will begin spring growth with little if any winter damage, the more likely you are to begin the new season next spring with larger more vigorous plants with little if any pruning needed. 

This is also an ideal time to remediate your soil.  Monty’s Liquid Carbon, if applied to the soil of your garden’s now will have time to start working before winter.( click here to order) This is important because Monty’s Liquid Carbon works in concert with your microbial populations and those little microscopic miners go dormant in soil temperatures below 45 degrees Fahrenheit.  Additionally, the normal ‘heaving’ of the soil during the freeze/thaw cycle will allow Monty’s Liquid Carbon to penetrate deep into your soil profile.  Finally, any Liquid Carbon that you apply now will be there, ready to work, come early spring when often it is too muddy to get much accomplished.

For those of you who experienced the deep drought and extreme heat this summer that we did around our gardens this summer, be aware.  The drought most likely caused your soils to collapse as the moisture was evacuated by evaporation.  This means that you will likely have to deal with compaction this next season, even if compaction is not normally an issue for you.  Monty’s Liquid Carbon is a great help to gardeners fighting against compaction-related problems.

Posted in , , Tagged , , , , , , , Leave a Comment

Ask Monty’s for 9/30/10: Roses, Coneflowers and Organic Pest Control

By Dennis on September 30, 2010

Ask Monty’s:

“Do you know of any more natural ways to control garden pests?  I’m trying to stay as chemical free as possible, but some of my methods aren’t covering all the bases.”

Renee
Grey Eagle, Minnesota

Renee:

I applaud your approach and environmental dedication.  While chemicals can be quick, effective answers to warding off garden pests, sometimes some very easy proactive approaches can be just as effective.  Probably the number one garden routine to establish is taking that daily walk in the garden to look for any changes in plant leaves, stalks or flowers.  I’ve caught many “new developments” taking place in my garden on several occasions and warded off major damage with that daily check (Tomato worms can strip a plant in the blink of an eye – I swear!)  That said, it also might mean thinking like a pest or insect and searching for signs of where they hide under leaves.  My mother-in-law, who was a great fisherman, used to say, “If you want to catch fish, you have to think like a fish!”  Same advice applies.

Hand picking off pests such as snails and slugs and destroying affected leaves is important in staying ahead of the game.  Planting garlic, dill, fennel, carrots and parsley among your plants also encourages beneficial insects such as ladybugs to rid your garden of a variety of pests. 

If you’re planting annuals or garden vegetables, rotate where you plant them from year to year, as different plants require different nutrients.  Weeding is also very important so you control desirable habitat for those unwanted pests.  A couple of natural offenses for pests are insecticidal soap mixed with water or pureed cloves of garlic (2) to a pint of water and use as a spray.

Two last thoughts.  First, don’t assume that just because the insect are harming your plants that they are harming your garden.  that can be a tough pill to swallow.  However, think like nature thinks.  These insects prey on the weak plants first.  They are easier targets with less native resitance.  So destorying yoru plants may be doing you a favor in the long run.  The plants that they kill likely would not have produced much fruit and owuld have still taxed the resources like water and nutrients just like they were your best producers.  Additionally if you save seeds for next year from this season, the seeds you save, after the insect have moved through, are naturally resistant to that particular pest. Survival of the fittest can go a long way to giviing you years of improved gardening. Finally, along hte same lines, since we know that insect prey ont he weakest plants first, make sure you have as few ‘weak links’ as possible.  Water adequately and provide additional nutrients with Monty’s foliar applications. Personally, I treat my plants to an extra dose of Monty’s 8-16-8 or 2-15-15 (depending on the plants growth cycle) once a week.

Ask Monty’s:

“My coneflowers this year looked terrible.  They turned brown and looked wilted all the time.  I tried watering them regularly and even fertilized them and they still continued to look deformed and the flowers were sparse.  What happened?  I would rather have had them not come up at all, they were that unsightly.”

Coco
Clyde, Ohio

Coco:

Coneflowers thrive in hot, dry conditions so you may have over watered them in your efforts to revive them.  But when you mentioned the plant deformity and sparse looking flower heads I think your plants have succumbed to aster yellows which is a disease caused by phytoplasoma, a plant killing microorganism transmitted by aster leafhoppers which can often occur from over watering.  Aster yellows can create the bizarre symptoms you suggest, along with other plant deformities.  There’s no cure for aster yellows so my best advice is to dig them up and remove any and all affected plants from your garden and destroy them by burning them or bagging them for the trash. Don’t put them in your compost pile.

Ask Monty’s:

“What’s the difference between a Multiflora Rose and a Virginia Rose?  They look the same and their flowers look similar as well.”

Trudi
Stillwater, Oklahoma

Trudi:

The only thing they really have in common is the fact that they are both deciduous shrubs and thrive in similar zones.  You must have seen these plants either side by side in size or in a photo because these plants are completely different in nature.  Multiflora Roses can grow up to 15 feet tall and are extremely evasive, forming thickets in all kinds of habitat, choking out natural plants and becoming a farmer’s agricultural nightmare.  One plant alone can produce up to one million seeds each year!

The plant you really want is the fragrant Virginia Rose.  This fast growing shrub gets between four to six feet tall and makes for a good hedge or as an addition to a wildlife garden.  The rose hips provide food for wildlife, hosts the Mourning Cloak Caterpillar and even have pretty reddish canes in winter as an added attraction.

Posted in , , , , , Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , Leave a Comment

Putting Your Best Petal Forward (pt 2): Grooming Roses for Rose Shows

By Dennis on September 9, 2010

Editor’s Note:  We have compiled several videos from noted rosarian and co-founder of Monty’s Plant Food Company, Monty Justice.  As a seasoned veteran, frequent winner, and judge of the Rose Show circuit, Justice is a sought-after consultant and speaker on all issues related to roses.  As such, we followed him to the Kentucky State Fair in the Fall of 2010 so he could teach us what judges are looking for, how to prep blooms for presentation, and in short, how to put your best bloom forward whether you are competing or just want to display your hard work in your home.  We hope you enjoy these segments and we look forward to hearing about your blue-ribbon successes.

Most roses are beautiful, but all roses are not show quality.  In this video, Monty’s Justice shows how to present roses with the ‘perfect’ round shape and the proper display of their petals.

Just like any competition, what separates the champions from the also-rans is attention to detail.  In this segment, Monty shows some of the tricks that winners use to get their blooms ready to face the judges.

Posted in , Tagged , , , , , Leave a Comment

Putting Your Best Petal Forward (pt 1): What the Judges are Looking for

By Dennis on September 8, 2010

Editor’s Note:  We have compiled several videos from noted rosarian and co-founder of Monty’s Plant Food Company, Monty Justice.  As a seasoned veteran, frequent winner, and judge of the Rose Show circuit, Justice is a sought-after consultant and speaker on all issues related to roses.  As such, we followed him to the Kentucky State Fair in the Fall of 2010 so he could teach us what judges are looking for, how to prep blooms for presentation, and in short, how to put your best bloom forward whether you are competing or just want to display your hard work in your home.  We hope you enjoy these segments and we look forward to hearing about your blue-ribbon successes.

Monty talks with us about what Judges are looking for in a winning rose.

In this segment, Monty examines a good specimen of a garden rose and uses it as an example of what the judges will notice.

Monty stops by one exhibit to show a flaw that judges are quick to notice in any competition.

Perfection aside, at the end of the day, what most novices appreciate about a rose is the way they smell. This class is custom suited for the beginning rose grower and the rank-and-file hobbyist who just appreciates the simple aspects of fresh roses. Put away your magnifying class and stop and smell the roses awhile.

Posted in , Tagged , , , , , Leave a Comment