Perfecting your soil this fall

By nancyc on October 4, 2012

Whether you’re an avid vegetable gardener, a flower enthusiast, or just want a nice looking landscape, the secret to your success begins with your soil. Rather than simple and static, the soil is a dynamic environment. In an ideal situation, it is full of tiny plants and animals, microbial activity, and all of the organic processes that lead to healthy plant life.

Here are a few ways to tell if your soil is functioning properly, and if Monty’s Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner can help.

Look – The first step to assessing soil health is to simply look for clues.  By observing what is going on at the surface you will have a good indication of what is taking place throughout your soil profile.

Key things to look for include:

  • Large clods after tilling
  • Cracks in the soil as it dries
  • Bare patches or areas where vegetation won’t grow
  • Heavy weed population
  • Standing water after a rain
  • Persistent “wet spots” or mud
  • No, or few, earthworms, pill bugs, and other signs of healthy insects
  • Heavy thatch layer or plant debris that does not decompose after a season
  • Pale soil ranging from almost white to light brown.  Healthy soil should be a rich brown to black.

Touch – Dig in to your soil. This is the fun part of gardening and maintaining your landscape.  By actually getting your hands into the soil you can tell a lot about the make-up, tilth and texture of your soil.  Good quality soil should be loose and light. In the morning when moisture will be at its peak level, dig in a few inches and grab a small handful of soil. Clench your fist around the dirt and then open your hand.  What happens?

  • If it falls apart into small pieces the soil is lacking enough organic matter and is tending towards a sand content that is too high.
  • If it stays together in one large clod it is likely holding too much water and is primarily clay, which can lead to compaction problems and anaerobic conditions which will favor the formation of harmful bacteria.
  • If it forms one central clod that breaks apart easily with slight touch or movement, is encircled by loose, separate bits of soil, you are on your way to creating an ideal environment for most plants.

Finally, if you have problems even digging into your soil at least 5-6 inches, you know that you have compaction problems that need to be addressed.

Smell – This is one that you may not have thought about, however, with a little practice your nose can tell you much about the condition of your soil. Healthy soils should smell earthy and moist, almost like well-maintained compost. If, on the other hand, what you smell is flat or non-existent, if it smells like a stagnant pond, or if it smells somewhat acrid, you know that you have situations that need to be addressed.

Gardening Practices – Some gardening practices themselves actually can be harmful to soil, especially over time.  And, even beneficial gardening practices may be enhanced. If you are currently doing any of these things, consider using Monty’s Liquid Carbon to remediate, improve, or expedite your current practices.

Not all soils can be transformed into an ideal state, but they all can be improved. By observing, touching, and smelling your soil, and by analyzing your current lawn and garden activities you can begin to see where improvements can be made. By making simple, seasonal applications of Monty’s Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner, either in concentrate or with the new ready-to-spray bottle, you can maximize the potential of your soil and return it to a plant-friendly, vibrant environment.

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Helping Plants After A Drought

By nancyc on July 22, 2012

To meteorologists, “drought” is measured in at least two ways. The first is a measure of ground water and surface water as measured by the Palmer Hydrological Drought Index. The second is a measure of rainfall over the past twelve months as indicated by the Palmer Drought Index.  In either case, recent indices from July, 2011 through June, 2012, have shown the most extreme level of drought extending from Texas west to Nevada and California, north to Wyoming and into parts of the Midwest.

Palmer Hydrological Drought Index: Source, National Climatic Data Center

Source: National Climatic Data Center

In homeowner and gardening terms: Boy, it’s dry!

Let’s look at how you can help your plants recover once a drought ends.

During the drought, plants basically shut down and now need to be nursed back to health.  The pores on the surface of the plant closed to prevent moisture loss. The nutrients and water stored in the cells of the outermost leaves withdrew, causing wilt, curling, and shriveling. Finally, the chlorophyll withdrew so it could be used to sustain the “heart” of the plant, which is why it turned yellow, became turgid and brittle.  The plant opted to jettison those leaves and limbs to guarantee its ultimate survival.

A similar process took place below the soil line.  The plant at first attempted to grow additional roots, especially tap roots, but eventually the auxiliary root systems and the root hairs dried, withered and eventually died.

When moisture returns, baby the plants at first, and bring them along slowly. Our first instinct is to go outside and pour on the nitrogen, which, after a drought is absolutely the wrong thing to do. The plant cannot process the nitrogen without the leaf surface, limb structure and root hairs to take it in. Also, it can’t handle the added stress of being forced to grow with a limited root mass to support the additional growth.

Rather than using a high N (nitrogen)* fertilizer, use a high P & K (phosphorous and potassium)* plant food to start.  This will help build the root system so it can make use of the other nutrients and draw in the moisture needed to process the nitrogen. Monty’s Root and Bloom 2-15-15, a liquid plant food, is an excellent option.

Once you start to see vitality returning to the landscape, step up to Monty’s Growth Formula 8-16-8.  By this time the plants can support the robust growth that Monty’s will provide.

Remember the soil.  The drought has taken its toll on the soil as well.  All of the microscopic flora and fauna — including earthworms and arthropods — have likely died or moved on and need to be encouraged to return.  Soils most likely have collapsed during the drought, making moisture management a challenge and additional root growth almost impossible in the tight, compacted environment.  Using Monty’s Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner will aid recovery. While it is always a good practice to condition soils at least annually to maintain peak efficiency, reduce compaction and boost organic matter, in drought years it may be critical.

*Plant foods and fertilizers are labeled according to the percentage of each of these three primary nutrients in the formulation:
N (nitrogen), P (phosphate) and K (potassium, or potash).  For example, plant food labeled “2-15-15” contains 2% nitrogen, 15% phosphorous, and 15% potassium.

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Ask Monty’s – Labels that read “All Natural”

By nancyc on June 8, 2012

In our last post we covered the plant food and fertilizer labeling terms “Organic” and “OMRI Listed.” In our next post we’ll cover the term “Certified Organic.”

Today, we’ll address the moniker “All Natural,” for which there is no regulation.

There is a growing belief as society becomes greener that natural is always better – better for individual health and for the environment. For this reason, many companies use that term to entice you into buying their product.

Using the term “all natural” is not federally regulated and is used by companies as a marketing tool. Just how “natural” a product is and how beneficial it will be is largely determined by the company itself.  Rather than muddying the waters further let me explain what Monty’s means when we use the term.

Some of our products, like our Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner, are OMRI listed for use in organic production.  Some, like our fertility products, are not. However, we can tell you, in full confidence, that our plant food products are naturally-sourced and derived.

How important that distinction is to you will be based on your objectives.  For example, if you are hoping to sell your vegetables in a local market as an organic product, then you could definitely use our Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioners but we could not recommend our plant foods to you for that purpose.

However, if you are simply looking for a product with superior performance and that is not harmful to you, your family and animals, or the environment, then you can use our naturally-derived plant food products with confidence.

I hope this helps. I know it can be a bit overwhelming. For more assurance and to help you purchase with confidence I would encourage you to develop a relationship with an independent garden center retailer so they can help guide you to products — like Monty’s Plant and Soil Products — that will help you achieve your goals.

Listed below are some handy links to OMRI, USDA and organic growing websites.  Also, refer to our post from June 6, for information about the terms “organic” and “OMRI listed.” And stay tuned for our next post about the term “certified organic.”

  • OMRI – information that organic farmers, handlers, certifiers, and other members of the organic community might find useful.

  • USDA Organic Roots Collection – electronic collection of historic documents published before 1942 – a time before synthetic chemicals became widely used.  Find state-of-the-art information and data that is still pertinent for today’s organic and sustainable agriculture.

  • HowToGoOrganic.com – The Organic Trade Association offers this resource to help cultivate the growth of organic farming.

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Ask Monty’s – Of pH and hydrangeas

By nancyc on May 22, 2012

What’s the difference between acidic and alkaline soil?

Keating, Cayce, South Carolina

Keating:
To answer this question, we will need to start with your old science classes.  Soil acidity and alkalinity is measured using the pH scale which runs from 0-14.  Neutral soil is pH7, acid is simply a lower number and alkaline a higher one.
You can have your soil tested of course and take the guess work out quite easily, but to give you a better understanding of how acid soils are formed, take a walk through the woods. The woodland floor is carpeted in conifer needles, leaves of hardwood trees and other dead plant matter, all of which increases soil acidity as they break down and decompose.  Rainfall, as it filters through trees and into the ground, dissolves limestone sediment and other alkaline minerals that help neutralize soil acidity.
Rhododendron in the woodsPlants such as heathers, camellias, rhododendrons and blueberries thrive in acid soils in which nitrogen, phosphate and potassium can be less available.  Clematis, viburnums, and lilac on the other hand, are lime lovers and thrive in alkaline soils.  Even more interesting, some hydrangea blooms are blue in acid soils and pink in alkaline soils.
While most plants prefer a neutral soil, some need the soil to be either slightly acidic or slightly alkaline. Further, some of the products that we normally use in the course of gardening or landscaping can affect the pH of the soil.  That is what makes Monty’s such a boon for homeowners – none of Monty’s plant foods, or our Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner, affect pH, whereas most fertilizers do. Regardless of your plant type, you can feed it with Monty’s knowing that it will not impact the pH of your soil.

Care and feeding of a (blue) hydrangea
“As a going-away present my office bought me a blue hydrangea – something I was always apprehensive about buying because they were a little pricey.  Where do I plant it, as I know they can be quite touchy about their surroundings?”

Kesha, Big Rapid, Michigan

Kesha:
Hydrangea do have some very specific requirements, but don’t let that scare you away.  They do well in a sunny or partially sunny area and I always recommend that this plant be near the house where they are protected from colder weather just as an added “perennial insurance caution.”  They prefer porous, moist, rich soil, and the blue hydrangea prefer a more acidic soil.  Water regularly as well.  Proper pruning is very important with these plants, which is done in the winter, and not too severely as new flower buds form on the older wood of the plant. Transplant with Monty’s Liquid Carbon and a root dip in a solution of Monty’s Indoor/Outdoor 4-15-12 (1/2 teaspoon per gallon of water). That blue color is protected by keeping your soils more acidic in nature. For the most vibrant blooms imaginable, make sure you feed the leaves directly with Monty’s Root and Bloom 2-15-15.

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Ask Monty’s 8-26-11: Peonies, Sunflowers, and Achromatic Landscaping

By admin on August 29, 2011

Sunflower-closeup--by-PriceAsk Monty’s: ”A girlfriend of mine gave me a package of peony roots to help ease the pain of two peony plants my husband relentlessly mowed over with the lawn mower because they were planted in the middle of the yard. My bad for not getting out and digging them up and moving them! When can I plant these bare rooted ones as I’ve only seen peonies that were already started in pots and ready for planting? I have no idea how to begin this process.”

Twila – Charlotte, NC

Twila: Well, you already know where a peony will best survive in your yard if it hadn’t fallen victim to being in the wrong place and the right time. They love the sun and a slightly acidic soil that drains well. The best time to plant bare root peony is in the fall just as the leaves are beginning to turn. By planting them in the fall they will actually have time to develop a strong root system which will give them more robust growth next spring.

Open the package your plants came in and make sure the plants are healthy. The tubers should be fleshy, firm and mold free. Sometimes these store bought plants dry out during transit, so it’s a good idea to soak them in a bucket of water for two to four hours to re-hydrate them before planting.

Peonies should be planted with the eyes pointing up and just below the surface of the soil. Peonies that are planted too deep will not bloom, so that is very important to remember. In your area tubers should be planted no deeper than two inches. In the mid-South, half-inch deep is sufficient. Then make sure you put mulch over the top of them and keep these plants well watered until the ground freezes.

Also, by soaking the bare-root stock in Monty’s 4-15-12 overnight before planting you can help stimulate root development. This formula is ideal for all of your transplanting and seeding needs. In fact, many of our growers have indicated that by soaking their bare-root plants and seeds they are nearing 100% emergence. Not only to the plants emerge better, they also tend to develop larger, healthier root systems and have the energy they need for success during that first year.

Ask Monty’s: “This the first year I planted sunflowers, so I planted a mammoth variety. They were growing great with big thick stalks and the heads were just starting to bloom. I look at their progress daily only to find one morning that an infestation of bugs were literally devouring the seeds that were trying to bloom on the flower. I sprayed them with an overall insecticide, but it isn’t slowing them down. What are these horrible bugs that are ruining these beautiful plants?”

Loyd – Greendale, IN

Loyd: Meet the red and gray sunflower seed weevil. Both are easily recognizable by their pronounced long “snouts.” What’s so horrible about them is that just as you’re getting ready to enjoy the huge flower heads, these pre-laid larvae that you are unaware of emerge from inside the forming seeds and start devouring their way out. There are specific products out on the market to control these pests, but note that they need to be applied in late June or early July just before the eggs are laid.

I’ve also heard from old sources that planting garlic around sunflowers keeps these pests at bay. It might be worth the try and you’ll also get a nice garlic production even if it doesn’t totally work.

In addition, experimentation is currently in progress regarding the development of hybrid sunflowers that are weevil resistant, so watch the market for those as well.

One last note, remember, Monty’s 2-15-15 is easy to mix with most herbicides and pesticides. So, in addition to getting the protection from insects that you are looking for as you treat your sunflower seeds, you can boost the appearance and production of your sunflowers. One other benefit, healthier plants tend to be naturally more insect and disease resistant, so the application of Monty’s may also help to boost the protection from these pests.

Ask Monty’s: “I was reading a landscaping magazine trying to get some ideas for next year’s improvement to our yard and the author kept referring from time to time about different kinds of garden layouts, especially the incorporating of achromatic schemes. Achromatic means “without color,” so I wasn’t sure what was being suggested. Can you elaborate more on this?”

Reese – Shoreview, MN

Reese: The author was probably suggesting an all white color scheme as an alternative to your usual, often colorful garden themes. If you have an interesting yard that is conducive to an all white color scheme believe it or not, the look can be quite dramatic, unique and truly beautiful. If you have backdrops of heavily wooded areas or rock or stone outcroppings, the results can be quite stunning if done correctly – which only comes with trial and error. Some white flowers to consider are carmellia, rose, Shasa daisies, peonies and white lilac, as well as some types of silver foliage like lambs’ ears. I hope I have our creative wheels spinning now!

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Ask Monty’s for 6/13/11: Broccoli, Calla Lillies, Roses

By Dennis on June 13, 2011

Ask Monty’s:

“I’ve planted broccoli for the first time this summer.  How do I know when it can be picked?”  

Samantha  – Apple Valley, Minnesota

Samantha:

Broccoli can be eaten at a couple of different growth stages.  Some people eat the unopened flower buds.  As the weather gets warmer you’ll want to pick it before the flower heads bloom.  So harvest the buds when they are about the size of a match head.  Samantha, one mistake common among home growers, especially first timers, is that you keep waiting for the heads to get to the size of those in the super market. Don’t expect your home grown broccoli to get the size of supermarket broccoli heads, as their growing environments are much more controlled to achieve the size they get. What they lack in size, though, they will make up for in flavor and nutritional value.  Using Monty’s 8-16-8 will help.

Ask Monty’s:

“I plant roses because I love how they look and also because of their smell and the diversity of smells they provide.  Bleeding hearts are also quite fragrant.  Are there other more fragrant flowers to consider?  I know all have their own degree of fragrance, but I’m looking for strong smelling flowers to entice the senses when you walk in my garden.”

Rose – Knierim, Iowa 

Rose:

Brugmansia, or “Angel Trumpet” comes to mind immediately for year round outdoor growing in zones 8-11, although in your climate you’ll have to make it a patio plant that you can take indoors in the winter.  The same is with a Gardenia, “Passion Flower,” jasmine, nicotinia (flowering tobacco) or lemon and limes.  Sweet Alyssum, Moonflower and 4 O’clocks are also great smelling plants.  Unfortunately, none of these plants are perennials for your Iowa climate, but they can be grown in your greenhouse or as patio plants that can all be moved inside over the winter.  All have overwhelming fragrant qualities. Honeysuckle and magnolias are also fragrant favorites particularly in the south. 

O, and since you asked about roses, don’t forget to check out the latest videos on roses from our founder and noted rosarian Monty Justice.  You can find them on youtube, or here.  You can also check out our rose care calendar to make sure you are getting the most output from your roses.

Ask Monty’s:

“My Calla Lily never blooms.  I thought these plants required low maintenance and even bloomed in diffused lighting conditions.  What am I doing wrong?” 

Blaine -Cold Springs, Nevada 

Blaine:

There are a couple of reasons that come to mind as to why your Calla Lily is not blooming.  Although they really are low maintenance, they do prefer bright indirect sunlight, with morning and late afternoon light as their preference.  So if you have them in any less they simply aren’t getting enough light.  If you are using a fertilizer, make sure it is low in nitrogen, which encourages green, leafy growth.  Too much nitrogen will overpower the phosphate a plant needs to make blooms. Monty’s 2-15-15 is a great fertilizer to use if you are looking to encourage more, and longer lasting, bloom. Read more, here. Another reason a Calla Lily will not bloom is if the bulbs are simply getting too old.

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Ask Monty’s 5/27/11: Asparagus, Crickets, and Calla Lillies

By Dennis on May 26, 2011

Ask Monty’s: “How do you know when to harvest asparagus and leaf lettuce, spring’s earliest producers?  I never have been quite sure.” 

Susan – Joplin, Missouri  

Susan: You can usually begin harvesting your asparagus spears when they are 6-8 inches in length.  Snap them off at ground level when picking them.  Stop harvesting them about 4-6 weeks after the first initial harvest so the plants can produce foliage and food for themselves. Once the asparagus emerge you can spray with Monty’s 8-16-8 for vigorous growth, additionally toward the end of the season, use Monty’s 2-15-15 to help them store energy in the roots so that they can propagate and emerge healthy next season.

Leaf lettuce is best picked when the outer leaves have reached about 4 inches in height.  Let the younger, inner leaves to grow further which will allow you to have lettuce through most of the summer if you pick it right and keep it well watered.  Don’t forget to spray it at least once a week with Monty’s 8-16-8.  This will stimulate vigorous growth.  As an additional benefit, if you are one who chosses to use pesticides or herbicides, they can easily be mixed with Monty’s products for no-fuss, one step application.

Ask Monty’s: “In early spring, if I don’t watch my garden or flower beds closely, young grasshoppers and even crickets almost strip my young plants beyond repair.  I have been using a regular insecticide on them, but is there an organic approach to repelling them?  It’s a reoccurring problem for me.” 

Dexter – Granite Falls, Washington 

Dexter: These little devils can indeed strip crops incredibly fast.  Grasshoppers alone are responsible for consuming 25% of the available foliage in the western half of the U.S. each year!  There is an organic product on the market that literally infects grasshoppers with a naturally occurring disease that is much like a bad case of grasshopper flu.  The disease is called Nosema locustae and it infects over 90 species of grasshoppers and crickets.  The best part is that pets, people, plants and other insects are not affected by it.  You can find this product in gardening catalogs and garden centers and it is sold as Semasporte Bait or NoLo Bait.  It has a very short shelf life of only about eight weeks, so if you store it in the refrigerator it will keep up to five months, so buy only what you need.  You can also talk to your local independent garden center, they may have some insecticidal soaps that will do the tricks.  A mild solution of JOY dish soap sprayed on the foliage helps with many insects, it may help with your crickets and hoppers as well.

One last thought,  evidence indicates that Monty’s foliar fertility products will elevate brix levels (the measure of sugar in a plant).  Anecdotal evidence seems to indicate that elevated brix levels may help deter insects.  We also know that insects tend to be opportunistic.  That is, they tend to prey on plants that are weak or stressed. Think of them like a cheetah, they cull the weak out of the herd and in an odd way by doing so they are protecting the strength of the overall herd of antelope. So one way to address the insect problem is to make sure your plants are the healthiest in the neighborhood, this will tend to cause the insects to move on to more susceptible prey. They key to plant health can be summarized in three words. Fertility, Fertility, Fertility.

Ask Monty’s: “I have a love/hate relationship with my Calla Lily.  Sometimes it looks fabulous and other times I just about kill it.  It seems like when it starts blooming, and I fertilize it, it takes an immediate turn for the worse.  I do not understand this.  Am I giving it too much, although I follow the fertilizer instructions to the tee?”

Tessa -Portland, Oregon

 Tessa: You should never feed a Calla Lily when it is in bloom, which is the opposite of most plants, I know.  A good quality, healthy Calla Lily just simply doesn’t need it.  If you just can’t resist, go with a low nitrogen, high phosphorous, high potassium fertilizer.  this will decrease the nitrogen available for growth and increase those nutrients needed to support bloom and root health.  We recommended Monty’s 2-15-15.

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Ask Monty’s 4/15/11: African Violets, Hydrangeas, and Selecting the Right Grass for your Lawn.

By Dennis on April 15, 2011

Ask Monty’s:

“I have a huge, beautiful African Violet that is very healthy.  How can I grow new plants from it?”

Irene
Forest Lake, Minnesota

 Irene:

It’s as simple as removing a healthy leaf with the stem attached and burying the stem in moist, well drained potting soil, leaving just the flattened round leafy blade above the surface.  Water it thoroughly and put it in a warm, bright location.  I even put the container in an open, clear plastic bag to increase the humidity level around the cutting to further encourage the stem growing roots.  I used to have an old neighbor lady with quite a green thumb who had incredible luck with just putting the leaf stem in a glass of water with the leaf hanging over the lip of the glass.  Once the stem started sprouting roots she’d then stick it in a small pot of potting soil and off they’d go!

A more aggressive approach would be division by carefully splitting apart the plant itself between the plant’s crowns, keeping the roots intact and then replanting them into individual pots.  Be prepared to see your plants suffer a little shock for awhile, but with good care they’ll snap back.

Don’t forget to either root dip your cuttings and/or water them in with Monty’s 4-15-12.  All you need is a weak solution (one-two drops per cup of water).  This will stimulate root development and almost completely eliminate transplant shock. (See more detailed information here)  After the plant has rooted well, you can start feeding with Monty’s 8-16-8, 4-15-12, or 2-15-15 – depending on the current growth stage of your plant.  One note for AFRICAN VIOLETS, the leaf surface and flowers are very susceptible to spotting. For that reason African Violets are one of the few plants we DO NOT RECOMMEND using Monty’s products as a foliar application.  Instead you can either wick feed or feed through the roots by mixing 1-2 drops per cup of water and pouring on the soil when you water. Check out our PDF on the care of African Violets, here.

 Ask Monty’s:

“I transplanted hydrangeas from pots into my flower beds two springs ago but I haven’t seen them bloom yet in their new home.  Is there any hope of their blooming this year or did I waste my time and energy?”

 Gwen
Owensburg, Indiana

 Gwen:

Patience is the key here and I think you have proven that.  Plants moved from containers to larger bedding areas will spend the first couple of seasons putting down roots and getting comfortable in their new environment instead of blooming.  Once established and no longer needing the excess energy to stabilize their root system, they will shift into a flowering mode.  Make sure you’re not using a fertilizer with excessive nitrogen, which can also retard their natural flowering attributes.

To explain this, let’s think like a plant for a minute. The presence of N tells a plant it is time to grow. So you can end up with a plant that has a lot of showy foliage and can become quite large, but never blooms. This results in what gardeners refer to as a ‘leggy’ plant.  This can also cause more than just aesthetic problems; the excess growth can lead to damage during heavy winds.  Your plants have natural cycles: germination, growth, reproductive, and dormancy. It needs to go through each of these phases to maintain good overall health.  By understanding this and allowing the plant to go through its natural ebb and flow you will get the best results.  That is why Monty’s Fertility products come in three “flavors”; each one is designed for specific needs of the plant during each one of these stages of development.  This season, try using Monty’s 2-15-15 at least once a week on the foliage.  I think you will be amazed by the results.  Check out our PDF on Hydrangeas, here.

 Ask Monty’s:

“There are so many different types of grass on the market.  How can you even begin to know what to choose for your lawn?”

 Joel
Mt. Airy, North Carolina

 Joel:

There are a lot of variables to consider when choosing the right grass for your lawn, and the top one evolves around where you live.  If you are newly landscaping or starting from scratch, it’s always best to drive around your area and see what lawns have the look you’re after and make note of it.  Your local nursery, a good landscaping company or your local extension office are going to be excellent, professional reference points for you.  Many larger towns and cities even have arboretums that not only feature plant variety, but label them for guests and lawn grasses are often incorporated into their design. 

Keep in mind though, if you want your lawn to look like a golf course, it comes with a price and a great deal of maintenance.  Grass grows best in the spring and the fall when it is cool, so keep that in mind when you’re looking at other lawns too.  Cool-season grasses are hardy enough to survive freezing winters and hot summers and include varieties such as fine fescues, perennial ryegrass and bluegrass.  Warm-season grasses are your tropical climate lovers and include St. Augustine, Zoysia, Bermuda grass and centipede grass.  There are also transition-zone grasses for hot summer climates and chilly winters that blend both your cool-season and warm-season grasses, but types a little more versatile include tall fescue or buffalo grass.

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Ask Monty’s 4/11/11: Successful Petunias, Organic Lining for Terracotta Pots, and Fungus on Redbuds

By Dennis on April 11, 2011

Ask Monty’s:

“Every year I plant petunias and they never seem to do more than just make it through the summer.  How can you fail at growing petunias?”

Alyce
Detroit, Michigan

Alyce:

Annuals need lots of water with being outside and braving the elements.  Petunias love the sun and appreciate a little shade, but watering them daily is what they need the most.  They should also be routinely deadheaded to keep them lush and healthy looking.  By doing it before they get leggy, they seem to respond better.  Don’t forget a little fertilizer every couple of weeks or so too.  Make your petunias part of your daily garden maintenance walk and you’ll get much better results.

 Ask Monty’s:

“You often talk about lining clay and porous pots with plastic bags to retain moisture for outside potted plants.  Do you think newspapers would work too?”

Greg, Pete and Scott
Morton, Washington

Greg, Pete and Scott:

Excellent, more natural idea gentlemen!  Newspapers may dry out a little faster than plastic, but will definitely serve the same purpose.  When cleaning your pots out in the fall you can dump everything into your compost pile and not have to worry about taking the plastic bags out too.  And, your newspaper liners may well be on their way to decomposing by that time.  Make sure you’re using the actual newspaper and not those colored enameled sheets that are often inserted into newspapers for advertising and such. They do not break down the same way newspapers do.

Ask Monty’s:

“There is a greenish, flakey growth showing up on my redbud trees.  What could it be and how do I get rid of it?”

Iris
Gladston, New Jersey

Iris:

There is a type of combination of fungus and algae that physically intertwines to become an entirely new growth called lichen.  It can also grow on stones or shrubs too.  It’s a very primitive plant species, absorbing water and nutrients from the air.  There is nothing harmful about it as they are not a parasite and do not cause disease, so don’t worry about it being part of your redbud tree.

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Reducing (or even eliminating) Transplant Shock

By Dennis on April 7, 2011

The Root of the Problem

Transplant Shock happens when plants are moved.  Unlike humans, plants were not designed to be shuffled around. In nature, once a plant is rooted, that is where it stays.  However, we are always waiting to change and design our environment and that means moving plants; either planting new annuals every year or moving, cutting, and thinning existing plants to more aesthetically pleasing areas. So, transplant shock happens when you move plants, but why?

The answer is all in the roots.  We tend to talk about roots as if they were one ubiquitous mass.  They are, in reality, not a mass but a system with individual parts serving particular functions.  The tap root is one or two long, thick roots that generally go straight down, deep into the soil. Think of this root as the “trunk” of your plant.  This root serves to access deep reserves of water, to add structural integrity, and to provide a wedge which breaks up the soil and allows for development of the second set of roots.  This second set is somewhat smaller and grow out laterally from the main tap root.  If the tap root is the “trunk”, these are the limbs and like limbs they stretch out, cross each other, and provide bulk.  The main function of these roots is to provide stability, serve as an anchor to the plant to keep it from moving, and to hold the soil so that the plant can get the water and nutrients it needs from its environment.  They also serve as host for the most important roots.  The third set of roots is the hair-like feeder roots.  These roots are very small, even on the biggest plants.  They are thin, wiry, and about the size of a human hair.  The ends, or growing points, are the only place where the plant can actually take up nutrients and the majority of water. Without getting too deep into the science, this is where the microbes and beneficial bacteria thrive and do their job of converting minerals into nutrients.

The problem with these feeder roots is even though they are vital to the plant, they are also the most susceptible to damage.  Some research shows that exposure to the air for even 3-4 minutes is enough to cause them to dry out and die.  They are also very easy to break. So, when you transplant the plants, even if you are careful, it is very easy to disturb this section of the root system and when you do, it takes the plant time to replace them.  Until then, the plant is getting very little nutrition or water. The plant enters survival mode, any flower is jettisoned as it fights to allocate stored resources for survival rather than reproduce.  As more resources are required to re-grow these vital roots, (and because it is getting no nutrition) it wilts. And this reaction is what is known as transplant shock.

So what can you do? Here are a few tips:

1) Be as gentle as possible.  Handle the root ball of the transplants as carefully as possible.  But know this. Even though you are careful, the feeder roots are so delicate they are going to break; it’s inevitable.

2) Prepare the new home.  Even if you are planting into the ground, you will want to provide a new home that is delicate.  Heavy clay soils are generally compacted and hard for the tiny roots to penetrate so mix some of the host soil with sand or soilless media and fill the hole loosely BEFORE transplanting.  Then remove just enough of the soil to make room for the new plant. 

3) Make sure the transplant is not root bound.  There should be a good amount of roots at the outer edges but they should not be circling around the root zone in a solid mass of white.  If they are, they will need a haircut, either by actually cutting and freeing some of the roots or by pulling them away to thin them out. This will kill of some of the feeder roots, but will cause fewer problems in the long term. You should introduce the plant to its new home as quickly as possible. I usually root-dip my plants for 10 minutes or so in a weak solution of Monty’s 4-15-12 or 2-15-15 (1 ounce per gallon of water) prior to placing them in the new environment.  This loosens up their native soil and gives them a quick shot of energy. Then once all the plants are in, I water them in with any remaining solution. The picture to the right is lettuce and spinach two days after transplanting.  Notice no signs of shock or wilt. You should place the plant its new environment just deep enough so that the stem and root ball is below ground level. Once the plant is in place back fill with the soilless/host soil mix. Be carefull not to press the soil around the plant as this can lead to problems with compaction.

4) Feed the plant. Some experts advise putting a bit of fertilizer in the bottom of the new home prior to transplanting. I have done it both ways and have not noticed much difference either way.  USE A LOW SALT, LOW NITROGEN fertilizer.  Nitrogen can burn even healthy plant material, much less tender feeder roots. Plus, nitrogen is the nutrient responsible for growth.  There will be a time for that, but now it is too early.  One of the biggest problems I see with zealous homeowners is giving the plant too much nitrogen too quickly.  This is especially true for perennials and larger transplants like trees and shrubs.  For these, I recommend very little nitrogen at all for the first full season.  Here’s why.  Nitrogen generates growth.  The mere presence of the nutrient tells the plant to get bigger, taller, and put on more leaves.  If you do that, and do not have an underlying root system to support this vigorous growth a few things can happen:  One, the plant will become top heavy and a strong wind will uproot the plant because there are not enough anchors holding it place. Two, and this is the biggest problem.  You know that droughts are going to happen.  When they do, the plant needs a good root system to access available sub-soil moisture reserves.  If, by applying nitrogen, you have spurred top-growth you have increased the burden on the plant by giving it more leaves, stems, and flowers to maintain and by not giving it the root system that it needs to provide the water and nutrients it is starving for. Instead of nitrogen, look for a fertilizer that is relatively higher in potassium and phosphorous (the second two numbers on the label).  These are the nutrients that a plant uses to develop good root systems and the ones you need to ensure successful transplants. 

By using a product like Monty’s 2-15-15 or 4-15-12 you can give the plant what it needs, and according to gardeners across the country, as well as my own experience, virtually eliminate transplant shock.  Get more details on transplanting in our how-to guides on our website. While this is still true for annuals, it is not as critical, cause let’s face it, you will be throwing them away in 6 months anyway.  Give them a week or two to settle in, then you can start using a higher nitrogen fertilizer.  The low-salt issue is still a concern so I recommend using Monty’s 8-16-8.  It’s high in nitrogen, but it has one of the lowest salt indexes on the market.

5) Water.  Believe it or not, most homeowners are so afraid of under-watering their new plants, that they go too far and over water them.  Over-watering is just as bad.  It depletes oxygen form the soil, collapses pore space, compacts the soil, and creates an environment ideal for developing anaerobic bacteria (the bad ones) which leads to rot, disease, and can increase the likelihood of insect problems.  If you are watering your plants keep them evenly moist so that they have to grow their roots both out and down.  this will give you a better anchor and will get feeder roots out of the topsoil.  If the roots stay in the upper reaches of the soil profile you will end up fighting drought conditions throughout the life of the plant as this layer of soil is the first to dry out in the hot dry days of summer.  To accomplish this, stick your finger about an inch deep into the soil (up to your first knuckle) at the edge of the drip line.  If the soil does not feel noticeably damp at your fingertip, it is time to water.

By following these few simple guidelines and by incorporating Monty’s Fertilitly Products you can get your plants off to the best start possible and virtually eliminate transplant shock.

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