Ask Monty’s for 8/2/2010 – Containers, Planters, and Tomatoes

By Dennis on August 2, 2010

Ask Monty’s:

“I have two flower boxes that face to the north that never seems to be able to have a plant survive in them.  I’ve tried impatiens, marigolds, coleus, petunias, but nothing survives.  What could be the problem?”

Gilda

Linton, Indiana

 

Gilda:

Let’s start from the beginning.  As part of my own personal spring prelude to planting, I clean and sterilize my planters every year, so I would suggest we start here. It’s just a good practice all the way around.  I dip my planters in a mild bleach solution and rinse them well before I put soil and plants back in them.  This is one way to just simply get off to a good start.  Bear in mind also that potting mix, by definition, is sterile which means that it will have no organic matter to speak of, so even mixing in a little bit of top-soil and sand (1:1:1 ratio) can help.  Adding Monty’s Liquid Carbon (4 ounces per gallon of water, applied to the soil until moist, not saturated), once the sand and soil are there can help the organic matter flourish.

You may be putting too many plants in one planter, so overcrowding could be the problem.  If these are north facing planters you may be putting plants in them that prefer sun, such as the marigolds, coleus and petunias you mentioned.  Your impatiens should be fine, as well as begonias, asparagus ferns and pansies.  You may even want to try a few herbs in these boxes for something a little different and useful in the kitchen, such as mint, pineapple sage, lavender, chamomile and even basil.  There are different variations of herbs that will thrive in shaded areas, so read the labels carefully before you buy these particular plants or seeds.

Ask Monty’s:

“My yard is too small to consider an actual garden, so I’d like to do some container gardening next year.  What vegetables thrives the best in containers?”

Dorinda,

Savanna, Illinois

Dorinda:

Carrots, lettuce, onions and radishes will do well for you, and tomatoes and peppers for sure.  With some staking or trellis implementation, cucumbers, squash, pole beans and eggplant will do terrific as well. Broccoli and kale are also attractive container plants too.

Don’t forget, also, that square foot gardening is a great option for those with limited space.  You can get more information about square foot gardening on this site, from your local county extension office, or by conducting a web search.  Square foot gardening is a technique that took root (pardon the pun) in third-world countries where space and water were both concerns.  It requires a much smaller footprint, makes a smaller impact on the environment, makes the most of available resources, is easier to tend, and still produces excellent results if managed well.

Ask Monty’s:

“I put my tomato plants in very early this year hoping to get a jump on their production as they are my favorite vegetable and they seem to take so long to grow.  However, my plants are not doing any better than any of my neighbors who were probably three weeks behind me in planting. As a matter of fact, mine even seemed like they stopped growing.  Any insight on why I’m not harvesting early this year?”

Shay,

Springhill, Louisiana

 Shay:

I know it’s hard to be patient when it comes to some of our favorite vegetables and the thoughts of biting into the first harvest.  Spring weather can be a real fooler to the anxious gardener with the warm sun breaking through, but the bottom line is that if the soil is still cool when you put your plants in it will actually slow plant growth.  The soil must be warm for best results when it comes to gardening, so waiting the extra few weeks to plant will help your plants get off to a better start. You might want to consider cold frames next year if you want to put your plants in early and help warm the plant and the soil around them. You should have better results then.

Posted in , , , , Tagged , , , , , , , Leave a Comment

Ask Monty’s for July 24, 2010: Cannas, Clematis, and Salting Asparagus

By Dennis on July 27, 2010

Ask Monty’s:

 “My cannas leaves seem to be having a problem opening and I’ve noticed that some of them have a rather sticky kind of stringy substance across them.  Not all the leaves are this way as some of the plants in other parts of my yard are looking very good, while others are not.  What could be causing this?”

Don and June

Buckhannon, West Virginia

Don and June:

The leaf roller is about the only thing that bothers cannas.  It’s actually a caterpillar that comes from the skipper moth and prefers to lay her eggs inside young cannas leaves, sewing them shut with that “stringy substance” to protect their larvae.  Once they hatch they will then start feeding on the actual cannas leaves.  You’ll want to gently unfold those young leaves where you can see they are being hindered and you’ll find the pests inside. When I can, I flip them the pests off into the yard where a bird can pick them up for a snack, but if you have a lot of cannas you’ll want to find an insecticide specifically for worm or caterpillars eradication.  If you have leaves that are heavily damaged, remove them and throw in the garbage, not in your compost pile. 

Another note:  After the frost completely kills the plants, remove all the foliage and bag and dispose of them separately so you don’t risk the chance of them over wintering and affecting next year’s plants.  This is particularly important in southern zones where cannas are perennials, as opposed to annuals in the northern climates.

Ask Monty’s:

“Every year I am amazed that my clematis comes up. They’re never spectacular, but they do put forth the effort to flower.  I know they like their “heads in the sun and their feet in the shade” and I have them planted appropriately so.  My problem is that this summer – mid July – the leaves are already starting to turn brown.  Isn’t it a little early for that?

Gayle

Brilliion, Wisconsin

Gayle:

Browning of the leaves is pretty normal particularly after the heat of the summer and once the plant is done blooming. Not too nice to look at, but you can safely prune away the dead leaves and continue to keep the plant well watered and well mulched to keep in the moisture.  If the plants are just beginning to brown, and you are set on reviving them, try applying Monty’s Liquid Carbon to the soil to improve moisture flow into the root zone and to reduce compaction which will allow the roots to spread out and access more moisture and nutrients.  Also start a foliar program with Monty’s 2-15-15. 

If you follow the advice here on our blog you may be wondering why I am recommending the 2-15-15 formula during a ‘growth time’ in the plant’s development cycle.  The reason is your plants are showing signs of stress from heat and drought.  The last thing we want to do is to encourage MORE top-growth when the plant can’t support what it has now.  So by applying the 2-15-15 formula you are signaling the plant to put its energy into developing roots; kinda babying it until it recovers. The plant is also about done for the season, so let’s help it store energy to get through the winter ahead, a high dose of nitrogen right now could keep it from entering dormancy normally and expose the plant to more winter-kill.

If the brown leaves or wilt extends to the actual growing tip and the vine itself becomes brittle or turns almost black, the vine is probably dead as well.  Prune the vine down to the closest living branch area so all the dead material is done away with. Again, if you keep the plant well watered and fed you may continue to see new growth as the summer progresses.

Ask Monty’s:

“I have heard that adding salt to your asparagus beds is supposed to help them.  I have a beautiful wild asparagus bed and would sure like to maintain it as best as I can.  Is there any truth to the salt advice?  Is it just table salt?”

Roland

Crossgate, Kentucky

Roland:

Some people will add sodium chloride rock salt (NaCI) to their asparagus beds after they are at least a year old.  It sounds like your wild bed is already well established – so you can do this.  Apply about two and half pounds per 100 feet either before the spears actually appear in the spring or around July 4 when you’ve already pretty well harvested your crop.  The salt prevents crown and root rot diseases caused by fusarium fungus and actual improves the plants overall growth.  Do not use iodized salt (your common table salt) or rock salt made of calcium chloride (CaCI).  Pickling salt is fine too.

If the thought of adding salt to your plants just sounds to chancey, you may consider using Monty’s Liquid Carbon in the spring and fall. Crown rot and fusarium are what we like to call ‘wet feet’ diseases.  That is, they tend to move in when the roots of the plants are kept excessively moist, either from a wet spring or from over watering. In Kentucky, most gardeners deal with fairly heavy clay soils, so the moisture you receive tends to hang around.  By applying Monty’s Liquid Carbon, you can change the structure of these soils so that they allow the moisture to move more freely through the soil profile which results in better drainage.  Once your drainage situation is under control you will likely see a marked decrease in many of these ‘wet feet’ diseases.

Posted in , , , , Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , Leave a Comment

Ask Monty’s for July 12, 2010: White Clover, Tulip Transplants, and Splitting Tomatoes.

By Dennis on July 12, 2010

Ask Monty’s:

“Why do tomatoes split?  Mine are splitting at the seams!”

Radovich                                                                                                                                                                                       Pikeville, Tennessee

Radovich:

Moisture or heat stress is the culprit here – and some varieties are more susceptible than others. When the fruit becomes too plump too quickly they literally burst their skin.  This often happens after a heavy rainfall that occurs after a very dry spell.  Cracks that radiate down from the stem are caused by heat stress.  This occurs during period of hot, bright sunlight and temperatures above 90 degrees. Even moisture is the key, along with good drainage, and a thick layer of mulch to keep the soil cool and moist.  Remove ripe and nearly ripe fruit after a heavy rainfall as a proactive approach to letting them ripen further and split.  Better that than if you let a split tomato go unchecked and be invaded by insects or slugs which can create more problems for your plants.

Ask Monty’s:

“I separated a hug tulip bed last fall from a neighbor and replanted the bulbs in several new areas throughout my landscape.  This spring they feebly came up with very few having more than one leaf and what ones did flower were not spectacular by any means.  Was my transplanting efforts worthless?”

Cindy                                                                                                                                                                                                  Fowler, Indiana

Cindy:

Hang in here.  Your transplants are still “moving in.”  I hope you let what stems and flower there were yellow and die off undisturbed as they store the carbohydrates back into the bulbs as part of their regeneration process.  The bulbs just simply need to get a little larger and a little more situated in their new home before they exhibit the flower power you’re used to.  This could take a year or two, so like I said, hang in there!

Ask Monty’s:

“Is clover damaging to your lawn?  My lawn is experiencing a little more than usual and my husband wants to get rid of it.”

Madison                                                                                                                                                                                        Dubuque, Iowa

Madison:

Some people consider clover a weed, a bad rap it got in the late 1950’s when broadleaf herbicides killed the clover, along with more harmful weeds. The eradication of lawn clover then gave way to a lawn care trend of cloverless yards that homeowners found more desirable.  The advantages of clover in your lawn actually outweighs the disadvantages such as:

  • Cover is draught-tolerant staying green virtually from spring to the first frost.
  • Clover is a built in nitrogen producing fertilizer creating its own nitrogen and fertilizes nearby plants and grass as well.
  • Clover out competes most other weeds and reduces the need for weeding or herbicide use.
  • Clover tolerates poor soil conditions, growing particularly well in poor quality subsoil commonly found around the foundation of new homes.
  • Clover is immune to “dog patches” where female dogs urine discolors lawn grasses, staying green and lush despite the abuse.
  • Clover is inexpensive at about $4 per 4,000 square feet or by just letting it grow and spread.

You cna learn more about the plant, and ways to get rid of it, if htat remains your choice, here.

Posted in , , , , , Leave a Comment

Ask Monty’s for 6/30/10 – Elephant Ears for Northern Climates, Late-Season Cold Snaps, and Late Blight on Tomatoes

By Dennis on June 30, 2010

Ask Monty’s:

“When we lived in Florida I had several elephant ear mammoths, which I dug up and moved with me to Maine.  Can these be planted as a perennial in this northern climate or will I need to dig them up every year?”

Hailey

Hallowell, Maine

Hailey:

In the southern states, where the winters are mild, elephant ears are perennials. However, moving them north of the Mason-Dixon Line will turn them into perennials that have to be dug up before hard frosts and winter snow hits.  If you have it in a movable pot and have the room, you could cut back the leaves and bring it in the house in the winter.  Otherwise, after the first frost you can cut the dead foliage back with a scissors and let it go dormant for the winter by putting it in a cool dark basement.

About 2-3 weeks ahead of dormancy I would also recommend making an application of Monty’s 2-15-15 formula.  This formula is excellent for helping the plant store energy and developing the roots over the winter, however, it will not provide enough N to spur on any late season growth.  Then in the spring when you transplant them or get ready to move them back outside, start them off slowly with Monty’s 4-15-12 it will provide enough N to slowly wake them up and bring them around (if you will be transplanting them it will also help minimize transplant shock).  Once they are established well, feel free to use Monty’s 8-16-8 to develop the enormous, gorgeous ears that make elephant ears the pride of the garden.

One last note, in your growth zone, as cold as winters can be, if you leave it in the ground, like cannas, the constant heaving of the soil from the elements, will simply cause it to crack, rot and dry out.

Ask Monty’s:

“We had such warm temperatures in April in our area that I went and starting planting some of my cool weather vegetables and what I thought were hardy flowering plants.  A cold snap slipped in about mid-May – much to everyone’s surprise – and froze all my plants.  Is there ever a standard rule of thumb regarding when it’s safe to plant in a person’s particular zone?”

Devon

Bucyrus, Ohio

Devon:

What you want to find out is what the average last frost date is in your area or zone for starters.  Visit www.noaa.govand type “frost dates” into the search box and you’ll get some pretty valuable information.  Another great site I found was through an online retailer call Greenhouse Magazine who has a facebook link: facebook.com/greenhousemegastore that shows detailed charts for all areas in every state.  It even has a nice image showing what the average dates are in your area.

Even with all of the cautions in the world, sometime mother nature has some surprises in store for us. Even though at Monty’s we have not investigated it scientifically, many gardeners and even farmers swear by the ability of Monty’s to help plants withstand the shock of our of season freezes.  One of our favorite stories came from a farmer who farms above the high-line in Northern Montana.  In 2005 they had a freeze where temperature dropped to 28 degrees for over 4 hours one July night.  While his untreated corn and all of his neighbors corn suffered severe frost damage, his Monty’s treated corn showed no sign of damage and went on to produce a great crop that fall.  As soon as your plants emerge or get established start treating them with Monty’s 8-16-8 every week or so.  See for yourself if you don’t join the ranks of homeowners with amazing Monty’s tales to tell.

Ask Monty’s:

“Late last summer my tomatoes got a blight that destroyed all of them.  Is this something I have to worry about again this summer?  So far my plants look excellent.”

Ansel

Adrian, Georgia

Ansel:

Late blight does not winter over in the soil in colder climates, but in warmer climates it can still be a threat – even in Georgia.  Be sure to water your plants close to the ground so moisture doesn’t actually splash up on the leaves.  A good bed of mulch like grass or straw will help keep the moisture in and the “splash” factor down which should help tremendously.

An application of Monty’s Liquid Carbon to your soil in the fall and/or the spring (you can even make an ’emergency’ application now) will help to increase the organic matter in the soil.  This will give you two benefits: One, it will help the soils drain.  Well drained soils do not have the tendency to create anaerobic environments that are beneficial to harmful bacteria.  Two, it may help improve the overall soil environment and encourage the native beneficial bacteria population so that they out-compete the harmful ones for resources.

Finally, since you are tlaking about late blight, I assume your plants are already blooming.  Spoon feed the plants additional nutrients like a tsp of epsom salts around the base of each plant (for added magnesium) and weekly applications of Monty’s 2-15-15 to provide for the overall health and nutrient needs of your tomatoes. 

Like all pest, diseases, and bacteria, late blight is a symptom that something else is wrong with your garden or plants.  Across all of nature, disease and prey always attack the weakest first.  By providing the nutrients they need, your plants will be able to better defend themselves with their own natural defense mechanisms.

Posted in , , , , Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , Leave a Comment

Ask Monty’s for 6/22/10

By Dennis on June 25, 2010

Question:

“My caladiums are beautiful this year and I’d like to propagate more to put around other parts of the garden. How do I do this as I know they are tuber-rooted?”

Heather,

Buckhorn, Kentucky  

Answer:

Propagation is done by dividing the tubers and this is usually done after their dormant winter period in the spring just before you plant them.  Cut the tubers into pieces with at least two buds, or “eyes,” per piece.  Plant them only about an inch deep and make sure you water them frequently to get them started. When you transplant them, you can also make a solution of one ounce of Monty’s 4-15-12 in one gallon of water; let the tubers soak while you are preparing their new home.  This will help provide them them with some added nutrients for germination and eaarly vigor. (Once they are up, add one ounce of Monty’s 8-16-8 per gallon of water applied to keep them vibrant and growing.) They like their soil temperatures warm, so don’t expect results until the spring weather warms the soil adequately.

Question:

“When shopping for planters I’ve noticed that many do not have drainage holes in the bottom. I thought you always had to have drainage holes to make sure the plant’s roots won’t rot. Which is the most preferred?”

Jordan, Bonanza, Oregon

Answer:

Planters with or without holes in the bottom for drainage really depends upon what you’re going to plant in them, your own personal watering habits and where the plant is going to live.  Houseplants usually get pots with drainage holes in them simply because they do not have to brave the dry elements of the outside environments such as wind and sun that dries plants out quickly.  Pots without holes in them can also be layered on the bottom with small gravel and sand which will serve the same drainage purpose.  I almost prefer this to the holes in the bottom of the planter, particularly for my houseplants, so I don’t have to worry about water seeping out of the bottom and onto my furniture.  Another practice I’ve adopted for my outside plants is that I use planters with solid bottoms and line the entire pot with a garbage bag to keep the plant’s moisture in longer.  This way they don’t dry out so fast. It seems like during the summer you can’t over water an outside plant.  So basically, by experimenting with both kinds of planters you’ll develop your own preference as well.

Question:

“I have small mushrooms growing all over my lawn, is this normal? Will it harm my lawn? We’ve had a lot of high temperatures and more than average rainfall in our area.  Would this have contributed to all these mushrooms sprouting up?”

Murph, Davenport, Iowa

Answer:

No doubt about it, mushrooms like damp, humid conditions and it sounds like you have had the perfect environment for growing them.  Once the sunlight hits them for a few days they should dry up and dissipate. Otherwise, just rake them out.  They’re not damaging to your lawn or other plants. Myself, I like to get rid of them as soon as possible because I had a dog that used to like to eat them and I’m never sure which are poisonous and which are not.  Mushrooms, as you know, are fungus in the ground which is breaking down dead organic matter and sprouting because of this decomposing.  In some parts of the country – such as Georgia – where the soil is clay and acidic, you will see a prevalent amount of mushroom growth.  Lime is recommended to add to the soil, which neutralizes it and helps prevent mushrooms from growing. If the musrooms are really a problem for you, you might also consider using some Monty’s Liquid Carbon it will help break down some of the organic matter in your lawn rapidly as well as help to balance the environment in your soil and allow for improved drainage.  One application in the spring and/or one in the fall should be sufficient to help improve most lawns.

Posted in , , , Tagged , , , , , , , Leave a Comment

Ask Monty’s 6/17/2010

By Dennis on June 17, 2010

We are starting a new segment on the blog called “Ask Monty’s”.  Whatever your most challenging lawn and Garden questions are, feel free to send them on to us.  From growth zones and insects, to how to grow particular plants. If it is green and growing (or should be) we’ll do our best to answer any questions you may have.

Just post your questions in the comments section.  Be sure to include your first name and the town you are in (you know, we need to check growth zones, climates and soil types so we can make sure we are giving you the best info possible.)

That’s all there is to it.  We’ll be updating this at least weekly so make sure you check back frequently for the best answers to your Lawn and Garden questions from “Ask Monty’s.”  

Now, here’s this week’s column:

Question:

“I bought some dahlias for the first time through the mail and was sent tubers – which I simply am not familiar with.  The package says there are enough for three plants.  The package is a mass of tubers, so how do I know how many to plant in one hole?”

Elise, Marshfield, Wisconsin

Answer:

If you take them out of the bag you will notice they are actually separated into three clumps or bunches.  If not, just do a visual separation and plant them by putting them on their side about 15-35 inches apart.  You’re going to love them!

Question:

“I read some where that a good way to get rid of weeds is to poor boiling water on them.  Does this work?”

Dorian, Naperville, Illinois

Answer:

It’s a very inexpensive and environmentally friendly way to get rid of weeds. You just pour boiling hot water right on them.  It may take a few applications, but it will do it.  It’s not something I would recommend for large areas, but for a few stray weeds or weeds growing in the cracks in your driveway or sidewalk it’s fine.

Question:

“I’d like to plan some baby’s breath. The make such nice additions to flower bouquets. Are they hard to grow? What do they prefer for sunlight?”

Janine, Crown Point, Indiana

Answer:

First of all there are both annuals and perennials, but I’m assuming it’s the perennial version you want.  Plant the seeds directly in the area you want them to stay long term. While they are low maintenance, they do prefer well drained soil and full sun.  Baby’s breath planted in shady areas won’t bloom to their full potential and will get leggy and floppy.  Left undisturbed, they’ll thrive for years to come.

Posted in Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , Leave a Comment