Perfecting your soil this fall

By nancyc on October 4, 2012

Whether you’re an avid vegetable gardener, a flower enthusiast, or just want a nice looking landscape, the secret to your success begins with your soil. Rather than simple and static, the soil is a dynamic environment. In an ideal situation, it is full of tiny plants and animals, microbial activity, and all of the organic processes that lead to healthy plant life.

Here are a few ways to tell if your soil is functioning properly, and if Monty’s Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner can help.

Look – The first step to assessing soil health is to simply look for clues.  By observing what is going on at the surface you will have a good indication of what is taking place throughout your soil profile.

Key things to look for include:

  • Large clods after tilling
  • Cracks in the soil as it dries
  • Bare patches or areas where vegetation won’t grow
  • Heavy weed population
  • Standing water after a rain
  • Persistent “wet spots” or mud
  • No, or few, earthworms, pill bugs, and other signs of healthy insects
  • Heavy thatch layer or plant debris that does not decompose after a season
  • Pale soil ranging from almost white to light brown.  Healthy soil should be a rich brown to black.

Touch – Dig in to your soil. This is the fun part of gardening and maintaining your landscape.  By actually getting your hands into the soil you can tell a lot about the make-up, tilth and texture of your soil.  Good quality soil should be loose and light. In the morning when moisture will be at its peak level, dig in a few inches and grab a small handful of soil. Clench your fist around the dirt and then open your hand.  What happens?

  • If it falls apart into small pieces the soil is lacking enough organic matter and is tending towards a sand content that is too high.
  • If it stays together in one large clod it is likely holding too much water and is primarily clay, which can lead to compaction problems and anaerobic conditions which will favor the formation of harmful bacteria.
  • If it forms one central clod that breaks apart easily with slight touch or movement, is encircled by loose, separate bits of soil, you are on your way to creating an ideal environment for most plants.

Finally, if you have problems even digging into your soil at least 5-6 inches, you know that you have compaction problems that need to be addressed.

Smell – This is one that you may not have thought about, however, with a little practice your nose can tell you much about the condition of your soil. Healthy soils should smell earthy and moist, almost like well-maintained compost. If, on the other hand, what you smell is flat or non-existent, if it smells like a stagnant pond, or if it smells somewhat acrid, you know that you have situations that need to be addressed.

Gardening Practices – Some gardening practices themselves actually can be harmful to soil, especially over time.  And, even beneficial gardening practices may be enhanced. If you are currently doing any of these things, consider using Monty’s Liquid Carbon to remediate, improve, or expedite your current practices.

Not all soils can be transformed into an ideal state, but they all can be improved. By observing, touching, and smelling your soil, and by analyzing your current lawn and garden activities you can begin to see where improvements can be made. By making simple, seasonal applications of Monty’s Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner, either in concentrate or with the new ready-to-spray bottle, you can maximize the potential of your soil and return it to a plant-friendly, vibrant environment.

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Helping Plants After A Drought

By nancyc on July 22, 2012

To meteorologists, “drought” is measured in at least two ways. The first is a measure of ground water and surface water as measured by the Palmer Hydrological Drought Index. The second is a measure of rainfall over the past twelve months as indicated by the Palmer Drought Index.  In either case, recent indices from July, 2011 through June, 2012, have shown the most extreme level of drought extending from Texas west to Nevada and California, north to Wyoming and into parts of the Midwest.

Palmer Hydrological Drought Index: Source, National Climatic Data Center

Source: National Climatic Data Center

In homeowner and gardening terms: Boy, it’s dry!

Let’s look at how you can help your plants recover once a drought ends.

During the drought, plants basically shut down and now need to be nursed back to health.  The pores on the surface of the plant closed to prevent moisture loss. The nutrients and water stored in the cells of the outermost leaves withdrew, causing wilt, curling, and shriveling. Finally, the chlorophyll withdrew so it could be used to sustain the “heart” of the plant, which is why it turned yellow, became turgid and brittle.  The plant opted to jettison those leaves and limbs to guarantee its ultimate survival.

A similar process took place below the soil line.  The plant at first attempted to grow additional roots, especially tap roots, but eventually the auxiliary root systems and the root hairs dried, withered and eventually died.

When moisture returns, baby the plants at first, and bring them along slowly. Our first instinct is to go outside and pour on the nitrogen, which, after a drought is absolutely the wrong thing to do. The plant cannot process the nitrogen without the leaf surface, limb structure and root hairs to take it in. Also, it can’t handle the added stress of being forced to grow with a limited root mass to support the additional growth.

Rather than using a high N (nitrogen)* fertilizer, use a high P & K (phosphorous and potassium)* plant food to start.  This will help build the root system so it can make use of the other nutrients and draw in the moisture needed to process the nitrogen. Monty’s Root and Bloom 2-15-15, a liquid plant food, is an excellent option.

Once you start to see vitality returning to the landscape, step up to Monty’s Growth Formula 8-16-8.  By this time the plants can support the robust growth that Monty’s will provide.

Remember the soil.  The drought has taken its toll on the soil as well.  All of the microscopic flora and fauna — including earthworms and arthropods — have likely died or moved on and need to be encouraged to return.  Soils most likely have collapsed during the drought, making moisture management a challenge and additional root growth almost impossible in the tight, compacted environment.  Using Monty’s Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner will aid recovery. While it is always a good practice to condition soils at least annually to maintain peak efficiency, reduce compaction and boost organic matter, in drought years it may be critical.

*Plant foods and fertilizers are labeled according to the percentage of each of these three primary nutrients in the formulation:
N (nitrogen), P (phosphate) and K (potassium, or potash).  For example, plant food labeled “2-15-15” contains 2% nitrogen, 15% phosphorous, and 15% potassium.

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Ask Monty’s 7/11/11: Coneflowers, Turnips, and Buggered by Broccoli Plants

By Dennis on July 11, 2011

Ask Monty’s: “I planted an awesome hosta bed under my old oak trees in a section of my yard and then dropped in some coneflowers behind them to add some color and height.  The first year everything was pretty well on their way to settling in and growing well.  The second year the coneflowers did okay, but this third year the hostas were outstanding and the coneflowers appeared to have all died, except for one lonely clump trying to hang on.  What happened here? 

Chevy – Topeka, Kansas

Chevy: You sort of lucked out getting those coneflowers to bloom at all.  The fact that your hostas are doing so well tells me the area is quite shaded –a hosta environment that they thrive in.  Coneflowers are a true wildflower and grow best in full sunny, well drained soil.  Your coneflowers are sun lovers and shade is not the place for them.

Ask Monty’s:  “I didn’t get around to planting my turnips this spring and was wondering if it’s too late to plant them now in July?”

Deann – Wiota, Wisconsin

Deann:  The one nice thing about turnips is that about the time other vegetables in your garden are winding down, turnips are turning out tasty tops and yummy meaty bulbs.  While often planted in the spring, if you want a winter crop they are best sowed in July or early August.  Late plantings are also less susceptible to turnip root maggot damage too.  If you decided to plant both a spring and summer turnip patch next year, they do make good companions for onions and peas in the garden, so keep that in mind.  But back to your question – plant those turnips now!

  Ask Monty’s: “I planted broccoli from seeds this year and it seemed to take forever for anything to come up.  The seeds were so small it was impossible to keep from getting them too thick in the furrows.  It was a nightmare and now they’ve all grown up and I’ve started pulling them out so there is more room between them to develop.  I don’t think I’ll ever plant them again?”

Stephanie – Nappanee, Indiana 

Stephanie: Don’t give up on your broccoli endeavors yet!  Wait until you taste that first fresh head and realize how much your effort paid off.  But yes, planting by seed directly into the ground is a test of patience for those little, bitty seeds like radishes, carrots and celery as well to name a few.  If a person has the room, sowing the seeds inside in early spring in trays gives you a major head start and gives the little plants a good head start after you’ve weeded out the ones that got too close together.  You can also buy seed strips that have the seeds on a biodegradable material and, pre-spaced that you just lay down in the furrow, cover with dirt and wait for them to come up. They’re a little pricey, but definitely easier. Since I only plant for small family usage, I do buy the plants already started in the spring from my local greenhouse.  They come in four or six packs with a good head start, so putting them directly in the soil where they need to be is a lot less stressful for me. I’m not much for seed starting either, but have to have that broccoli in my garden! 

One last note on broccoli, don’t expect to see them with the large softball sized heads that you see in the grocery store.  Those are grown by farmers and usually with a volume of chemicals and fertilizers that you, as a home gardener, would neither want, need, afford, or be able to attain.  The heads will be smaller, but sweeter and, overall, better than their mass produced-counterparts. Plant your heads plants in the ground about two per week until you’ve planted the deisred number or have filled your row.  By doing this you will extend your growing season and have fresh-from-the-garden broccoli for several weeks.  If doing that requires too much patience, then you can plant them all at once, just be prepared to preserve them.  Borccoli do well in the freezer if they are par-boiled for about 2 minutes, run under cool water, dried as well as possible then cut into florets and frozen in zip-top baggies.

Oh, and don’t forget, like the turnips and other veggies metnioned above…broccoli and cauliflower can start going in the ground in the last third of July in the far Northern US through late August in the Deep South (check with local county agents for exact timing) for wonderful fresh fall veg crops.

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Pruning Roses Too Early May Cause Winter-Kill

By Dennis on November 30, 2010

Recently a member of our staff was talking to a friend who was busily preparing their roses for winter by pruning them back.  He returned to the office somewhat concerned that it might be too early. Chances are, his concerns were merited…mainly due to the protracted summer/fall season we have seen in the Ohio Valley this year.  But it does bring up the question, when should you prune your roses back ans what harm might you do if you prune too early.  With that question in mind I sat down with the president of Monty’s Plant Food Company and talked with him about pruning roses.

First, let’s establish when roses should be pruned.  In growth zone 5, where Monty’s is headquartered you generally want to do that sometime after mid-September.  Though the calendar should be used as a guideline, not a hard date.  What you are looking for is to prune sometime after nighttime temperatures start falling into the upper 40-degree range-if not every night, at least occasionally.

Why wait until then?  When you prune a rose it signals the plant that damage has been done and it immediately starts trying to recover the lost limbs.  Remember plants are not trying to please us; they have only one goal–to reproduce themselves. That is the whole purpose of the flower.  So when the canes are pruned back the plant realizes it has fewer possibilities for producing roses (reproducing) next year and it works to remedy that.  If it is still warm outside to produce the GDUs (growing degree units) needed for growth it will produce more canes.  These canes are very young and very tender.  Read that as very susceptible to frost and freezes.

Mechanically, what happens when your canes freeze is this.  Remember field trips in school?  We were always told to bring a sack lunch and a soda pop with us.  At my house that usually meant my mom would take a can of Dr. Pepper, put it in the freezer for a while, then remove it and wrap it in aluminum foil so it would be cold for my lunch.  However, there were times we forgot the can in the freezer.  The next time we opened the freezer door there would be frozen droplet of Dr. Pepper everywhere.  Even though most things contract as they get colder, liquids actually expand. The expanding liquid inside the can stretched the can as far as it would allow, but eventually it would stress and burst.  This is the same thing that happens to these new canes on your roses.  Inside each cane are plant cells that have some ability to stretch and expand, but it is limited.  As the moisture freezes and expands, eventually the cells rupture; that cell is now dead.  If that happens to enough cells, that section of the plant will die.  In extreme cases, the skin on the newly formed cane itself will rupture and create a small fissure or crack in the skin.

So what damage does all of this cause?  Well, if just a few cell die, not much.  the plant is resilient and will likely overcome the mild damage. If enough cells die, though, it can kill the cane. If a crack is created in the skin, insects will see this as a weakness in the defenses of the plant.  Believe it or not, many insects vision see things in infrared.  Because of that, this injury shows up like a beacon to beetles and other opportunistic feeders from hundreds of feet away.  It’s like a glowing neon sign at a diner that says “OPEN!”  This opening not only serves as a dinner bell for insects it is also a perfect breeding ground for bacteria.  So, the light freeze damage in the fall, suddenly becomes a point of entry for disease, bacteria, fungus, or insects that may kill your plant completely next season.

Prune canes back to 1/4 inch above a three-leaf axil in late summer or early fall for best results.

Additionally, all of the energy spent producing these new canes that will invariably die is energy lost to the plant next spring.  It is best to wait until the nights are cool enough so that the energy expended on new growth can be  utilized in the spring when those canes will have opportunity to produce the rose you desire.

So how should you prune, and when?  Again, wait until nighttime temperatures are in the 40’s. Then prune back every cane to a three-leaf axil.  You should always use sharp shears and cut on a 45-degree angle about 1/4 inch above your selected axil. (See Diagram to the right).  Monty also tell me to moisten your finger and rub it in the dirt after you cut the cane, then rub the dirt into the cut on the plant.  This, he tells me, will cover up the wound and keep the insects from finding it as readily.

Keep checking this post regularly as we will soon have more conversations and videos from Monty himself to give you the rose-growing tips of a champion rosarian.  Additionally, we provide answers to your questions each week in our “Ask Monty’s” section so keep posting your questions to the blog or send us an e-mail.  And when you write, or e-mail, make sure to include pictures of your garden.  We always like to see what others are doing and learn about the successes they are having with Monty’s Plant Food.

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Ask Monty’s for 11/21/2010: Dogwoods, Loropetulum, and Winter Lighting for Orchids

By Dennis on November 22, 2010

Ask Monty’s:

“I planted small dogwoods a few years ago and although they get leaves, they never bloom.  I’m fertilizing, mulching and watering them religiously, but still no blooms again this year.  What do you suppose the problem is?”

Finley
Dartsmouth, Maine

Finely:

The problem from what I can determine from your maintenance program is that all the plant’s energy may be going to forming roots instead of flowers.  Between your fertilizer and mulch they may be getting too much nitrogen which promotes leaf growth and actually discourages flowering.  Unusually cold winters can also prevent flowering too by killing the buds, which is also a consideration in your region.

Before the ground freezes this winter, I would suggest an application of Monty’s Liquid Carbon to the soil around your tree.  Apply it from the base of the tree out to the edge of the drip line.  Will help open up the soil and improve nutrient exchange between the tree and the surrounding soil.  If it is too late this fall already, then do this at your first opportunity this next spring.  Secondly, Monty’s offers two products that make fertilization a ‘no brainer’ and since they are liquid, they are very easy to apply.  First, at first leaf, start applying Monty’s 2-15-15, this low N, high P & K formula will work with the natural cycle of your dogwoods to give them the nutrients they need for vigorous blooming.  Then, as the blooms start to fade a monthly application of Monty’s 8-16-8 will encourage aggressive growth and the formation of new branches.  This action combined with a good pruning program will help develop the size and shape of your tree for years of enjoyment.  Both of the fertility products will be best utilized by the plant if you apply them directly to the foliage of the tree using Monty’s 100:1 applicator tip or by applying with a hose-end applicator from your local garden center.  Finally, these are just brief tips; for a more exhaustive discussion refer to this pdf from www.mymontys.com.

Ask Monty’s:

“I have a border of loropetulum along my yard. When I put them in, they were purple leafed but now they have turned green. I just got two new replacements which were purple and realized how much mine had changed. Does that mean that my soil lacks something? Can you suggest how I can keep the leaves purple? Both bloom very nicely –  that beautiful bright pink bloom.”

Ann
Anderson, South Carolina

Ann:

Loropetulum do best in a partly shaded, partly sunny area in zones 8 to 9, so you’re in the right region for this plant. They also prefer sandy loam, a little clay perhaps for soil requirements and they do better in an acidic ph. However, while their water requirements are normal to moist, they do demand good drainage. Depending upon where you have these planted they may not be getting enough sun or too much sun and too much water. Try planting one in a completely different area of your yard that has exactly the opposite lighting conditions and see how it does.  Be mindful of its soil needs and monitor its water intake too. They like southern exposures if that helps at all.

Ask Monty’s:

“My wife is looking for lighting for the winter months for orchids (the common kind that we can purchase here) phalaenopsis. She is looking for artificial light and wants to be sure that it provides light without providing too much light.”

Randy
Lake Charles, Indiana

Randy:

There are two types of orchids which will grow well, year round, under artificial lights: phalaenopsis (known as the moth orchid) and paphiopedilums (known as the lady slippers).

There are other orchids which will bloom under windowsill and/or artificial light conditions, but these orchids require more light. The minimum set-up for the use of fluorescent bulbs is two 40 watt tubes. A practical set-up would alternate Gro-lux or Vita-Lite wide spectrum lights with cool white fluorescent tubes. The lights may be left on up to 16 hours a day. Because fluorescent light produces no heat, they should be within 12″ of the plants.

The optimum light for phalaenopsis is between 1000 to 1500 foot candles. Paphiopedilums, which require less light than most orchids, thrive at 800 to 1200 foot candles of light. I’d recommend buying an easy- to-use light meter to measure the amount of light, just for insurance purposes. If a mature, healthy phalaenopsis does not flower in its appropriate season, the reason is very likely due to lack of light, either in intensity or duration, so keep that in mind as you go.

Also remember, as with most plants, orchids need a ‘dormant’ period – a time when their reproductive and growth cycles shut down.  This allows the plant to store up energy for it’s next reproductive cycle.  What you see as a beautiful bloom, the plant sees as an opportunity to attract pollinators and increase its chances for propagation. Keeping that in mind, we know that it needs energy to make the best bloom possible because natural selection only allows the most successful of the species reproduce.  SO, as you let your plant go ‘dormant’ do not forget it still has nutritional needs, especially if it is planted in a sterile potting mix. Monty’s 2-15-15 will give it the P and K it needs for a more vibrant bloom cycle next go round.  So don’t stop feeding your plants, just change the formula and give them what they need.

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Monty’s Rose Care Calendar for September

By Dennis on September 7, 2010

Below are rose care tips from Monty’s namesake and the creator of Monty’s Original Formula, Monty Justice, for the month of June. These tips are based on growth zone 6 and you should adjust the timing for your specific region and conditions.

September:   The hottest, most stressful days of summer are behind us, and if you have taken care of your roses all year, then you are getting ready for a beautiful display of new blooms.  I recommend using Monty’s 2-15-15 sprayed to the foliage of the plants to improve this flush of blooms and increase the vibrancy and their staying power.  However, one drawback to the cool nights and warm days is that the plants will not dry out as well as they do during the summer; this leads to mildew problems.  Spray purplish red growth at the top of the plants; treat for mildew as needed.  

When cutting blooms for your enjoyment you should have been cutting stems as long as desired since July. Be careful not to cut too much of the stem when you remove your roses for shows or for home enjoyment.  If you trim them back too far or if you prune too heavily there will not be enough sun or energy left to establish the base for new growth for next season.

Editor’s Note: September is also the time of year that many will be grooming their roses for exhibition.  Keep watching this blog for tips on what the judges are looking for and how to present your roses so they can put their best petal forward.

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Ask Monty’s for 8/23/2010 – Magnolias, Bulb Plants, Tomatoes

By Dennis on August 23, 2010

Ask Monty’s:

“I planted my iris, crocus and tulips when we first moved into our house almost ten years ago.  Although they have spread out quite nicely from their original site, they haven’t been producing the abundance of flowers they produced in the first five years or so.  Do they all need a good fertilizing routine – something I never really do?”

Ansel,                                                                                                                                     
Fredericksburg, Virginia

Ansel:

Fertilizer never hurts, especially if you’re not one who consistently does it.  However, I think what you really need to do to rejuvenate your old perennials is simply divide them.  Once you’ve dug them up, divided them and moved them, amend the old site with organic matter to replenish the oil.  You should see your plants revival in the spring once the have room to stretch out again.

Ask Monty’s:

“My pink Magnolia tree is in trouble!  I planted it in the spring and now the leaves are turning yellow and brown and dropping off.  I know it is late summer, but isn’t it a little early for the tree to start losing its leaves?”

Cassandra
Absecon, New Jersey

Cassandra:

Magnolias like moist well drained soil.  The symptoms you are describing indicates droughty and waterlogged soil.  Water the tree thoroughly when the soil at the base of the tree is crumbly and dry.  Then spread wood chips, shredded bark or mulch around the base of the tree to help keep the moisture in, the grass at bay and soil temperatures more even.  The best part about the mulch breaking down is it will nourish the soil to, so replenishing it should be routine.

Ask Monty’s:

“When you pick tomatoes is it better to put them in the refrigerator crisper or leave them out on the counter or a table?”

Ryan
Hopkins, Minnesota

Ryan:

Tomatoes that are not fully ripe will ripen best on a counter or table all on their own.  I’m not shy about picking tomatoes that aren’t quite ripe, so you shouldn’t be either.  From a taste standpoint refrigerated tomato flesh loses its softness and sweetness.  Do a concentrated taste test and decide for yourself.  I sometimes will put my very ripe tomatoes in the refrigerator if I’m not going to get to canning right away, but I even try to stay away from that if I possibly can.

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Pruning Roses for Winter Dormancy

By Dennis on February 3, 2010

Monty Justice Applies Liquid Carbon to his Roses

Want to know when to Prune your Roses?  Well me, too.  And when I need to know ANYTHING about roses, I check with Monty Justice.    He is one of the co-founders of Monty’s Plant Food Company, a frequent rose judge, columnist, and owner of his own rose care company. Oh, and did I mention that he is an octogenarian?!  So, when he speaks…I listen.

Here is his advice on pruning roses.  (note:  He lives in Kentucky.  You may need to modify your schedule slightly to accomodate your particular growth zone)  Just bear in mind that pruning should be done between the FIRST blooom cycle and before NEW SPRING growth appears.

In the fall, crowns and bud unions should be just below ground.  You can do what I call “pre-pruning” after a frost or temperatures in the 30 degree F. range before the plants are dormant.  Remove damaged, twiggy, crossover stems and foliage, a foot or more from the ground.  Also open up the congested middle by taking out one cane to the ground.  You can do this when temperatures are moderate.  Do nothing to the length of remaining stems or leaves.  Continue to add Monty’s 2-15-15 every time you spray.

 Before the soil warms and new growth begins, (March) do a final pruning – remaining leaves and buds, and tiny laterals at the top of each rose plant.  Seek a uniform height by shortening stems above five feet.

 Begin spraying with your accustomed fungicide and insecticide when the buds are pea size and or the “purplish-red” leaves are turning green.  Disease and insects will not attack until this change takes place.  Add one tablespoon of both vinegar and epsom salts plus one half teaspoon Monty’s 2-15-15 to each gallon of spray material.  No need to add a spreader sticker if Monty’s is added.  The humics in Monty’s takes the pesticides and nutrients into the plant effectively through the leaves and buffers the potential for burn or other damage. The vinegar acidifies the solution making the pesticides retain their viability for an extra day or two.

            Magnesium is significantly important and provides three specific benefits.  

  • It boosts the efficiency of photosynthesis and makes the process of turning sunshine into energy more effective. 
  • It also keeps the lower leaves darker green at least until they are shaded by the foliage above
  • It helps the plant metabolize other nutrients.

 Using the spray nozzle apply Monty’s Liquid Carbon soil conditioner on the rose bed four times at a rate of 2 ounces per 1,000 square feet.  Allow one month between each application for any source of water to take the humic material into the soil.  This treatment is most effective on clay soils.  Do not use if soil has already been conditioned more than six inches deep with compost etc.

 At the end of the first bloom cycle, (May-June) remove all lateral stems that did not bloom and cut back all canes to a desired thickness (one quarter inch).

             In summary, your larger plant size will have increased roots.  The abundance of leaves will increase the energy and vigor of the plant.  Removing a goodly percentage (25 to 40 percent) of the stem and foliage creates an imbalance between roots and the top growth.  This will result in increased vigor, new larger canes, and more blooms for the remaining season.

             Although I’ve not done this with Fortuniana rooted roses, I can see no reason it will not do as well as other root stock.

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Garden Cheaply, Garden Well

By Dennis on January 18, 2010

Welcome to a Monday morning.  I am a little sore this morning from an unexpected opportunity to get out in the garden and lawn this weekend. It’s not too often that we get sunshine and 50+ degree weather in January in the mountains of East Tennessee.

This weekend I had the chance to compost and line out some of my flower beds, prune some bushes, etc.  But it was the composting that I wanted to talk to you about.

Free compost My kids and I unloaded this weekend. It recieved about 1.5 inches of rain over the weekend

Free compost My kids and I unloaded this weekend. It received about 1.5 inches of rain over the weekend

Many of you want to compost but you are afraid of the process, have heard horror stories or don’t have enough plant material to get your pile started.  For me,these reasons and the fact that I live in a neighborhood and don’t really have a place to establish the size pile I would need got me searching and asking questions.  The question I asked:  What does the city/county do with all of those leaves and Christmas trees they collect throughout the year?

The answer:  In many communities, they have established FREE compost areas.  In my community, they have a location about 5-10 miles or so outside of town where they take dump-truck load after dump-truck load and pile up the leaves in long rows.  The trees and limbs they pick up through the year are run through a chipper/shredder and blown onto the same piles.

There are rows that are three+ years old and some rows of fresh (this season) and everything in-between in various stage of decay.  The only thing it cost me was the gas to travel out there, and a few hours of work loading and unloading this free source of good quality compost.

When I used to live in Frankfort, KY they had a similar program but it was located in the heart of town so it was more accessible. This brings me to a couple of points to consider.  In many cases this is a ‘free’ or tax-subsidized program so its existence in your area may vary.  I had to call several agencies from city hall, county government, park and recreation department, and sanitation until I found someone who could tell me about it.  Strangely enough, none of these bureaucrats knew anything about it…they all told me that we did not have anything like that in our area.  It was not until I met one of the truck drivers for a leaf collection crew at McDonald’s that I got the answer I was looking for.  Point is, you are likely going to have to look for it to find it.  I have also discovered that some cities charge a nominal fee for the compost while others operate it as a completely free service.  Further, (especially in the free service areas) management of the piles can vary widely. So, know what you are looking for when you go pick it up so you can tell if it has been turned regularly, etc.

Like anything there are some things to consider:

Since these piles are created from leaf-collection services their focus is collection NOT creating perfect

This close-up of the compost after we had pile it around our dogwood tree shows the texture of the free compost and the fact that it was made of various materials which are in different stages of decay

This close-up of the compost after we had pile it around our dogwood tree shows the texture of the free compost and the fact that it was made of various materials which are in different stages of decay

mulch/compost.  Therefore, I had to sort out some various bits of pop bottles, plastic, wires, small scrap metal.  All in all though, I only sifted out enough garbage to fill a small plastic grocery bag so its a small price to pay.

The compost is made of various types of plant material with various acidic conditions like oak and pine so your pH levels can be all over the place.  Therefore, I recommend testing it with a pH meter.  I am taking mine to a friend this week to have it tested.  I will update you once I have the numbers. Plus any info I have on amending it as needed.

Some areas will have staff on hand with a front-end loader, others will not and you will have to load it yourself.  One area I am aware of, does not have a front end loader, but they don’t mind if you bring your own.  For just a few dollars you could probably hire a farmer to meet you out there and load it for you.  I used a pick-up truck to haul my mulch and it held three front-end loader scoops.  It took far longer to unload it than it did to load it.

I used a standard shovel to unload it and it took approximately 20 heaping shovel loads to fill my wheel-barrow.  That will give you an idea of the time and effort it will take if you are loading it by hand.

Bottom line,  this is a good, though not perfect, system for many of you to be able to access compost in volumes that most home-owners/gardeners could not.  This compost is similar to the quality you would have to pay $40+ per front-end loader scoopful at a retailer and it is free and readily available.  Additionally, it is a good use of material that, ten years ago, would have simply ended up in our landfills.  This is the essence of  Reduce Reuse Recycle and is an example of where it works efficiently and effectively.  For these reasons, and because I am always looking at ways to save money on my gardening projects, this is one I wholeheartedly support and recommend.  If you’ve got the time and the labor available and you don’t mind waking up sore on a Monday morning, do the research find the location and go get yourself some good, free compost.

We were able to get most of the compost spread in our flowerbeds and around our trees before the rains began. This pile is adjacent to our garden we will get it spread when the soil is dry enough to walk on. Hopefully we will be adding to it with another load of free compost next weekend, if the dry weather continues.

We were able to get most of the compost spread in our flowerbeds and around our trees before the rains began. This pile is adjacent to our garden we will get it spread when the soil is dry enough to walk on. Hopefully we will be adding to it with another load of free compost next weekend, if the dry weather continues.

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What can I over-seed my lawn with?

By Dennis on October 8, 2009

A family member sent me a post on my facebook account this afternoon asking me this question.   I wrote him a response (he lives in TN, so my answer was geared to southern climates) and thought I  would share it here since many of you may be wondering the same thing.  He specifically wanted to know if he should over-seed with tall fescue, a staple of southern yards.

 Tall fescue is a cool season grass, so it does well in spring and fall, and holds up pretty well late in the winter. But come summer it will brown off quickly in our hot drought conditions.

Bermuda is another common grass in this area.  It does very well late spring to very early fall and is green all summer but it is nasty brown from Oct-about May.  Plus, if you like to go barefoot in the spring, forget about it.  The rhizomes this stuff uses to reproduce get hard when they brown off and hurt tender feet.  But, you will have a nice lawn for summer BBQ’s. It looks really nice, it will get good and thick and it leaves a nice edge if you like to edge your lawn.  It will also hold up to wear and tear from kids and pets.

Bermuda problems part two.  You can’t get rid of the stuff.  Since it reproduces with rhizomes (runners) and seed heads, it will eventually choke out everything else and it will get places you would rather it did not.  It will come up through weed barriers and it will invade gardens.

Here’s what I do.  I seed mainly fescue, then over-seed in the early spring with Bermuda.  It will eventually take over, but until that happens it gives me year round color and keeps weeds at bay.  Once it does take over, tear up the yard, rake as much of the bermuda out as you can, sow fescue in the fall then lightly sow bermuda the following spring and repeat the process in another five years. It’s a hassle but it works

BTW..one last note on bermuda, DO NOT Compost with it or Mulch with it.  The seeds are very hardy and they will germinate in your flower beds.

If you don’t like the downside of bermuda, and you don’t mind brown grass in the summer or high water bills.  Then go with a rye/fescue/bluegrass mix for the yard and Saint Augustine (thick bladed, shade loving grass) in heavily shaded areas or around trees. I hope this helps.

If you have other thoughts or recommendations, feel free to share them in the comment section. I would love to hear your suggestions on southern lawns.

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