Ask Monty’s for 9/30/10: Roses, Coneflowers and Organic Pest Control

Ask Monty’s:

“Do you know of any more natural ways to control garden pests?  I’m trying to stay as chemical free as possible, but some of my methods aren’t covering all the bases.”

Renee
Grey Eagle, Minnesota

Renee:

I applaud your approach and environmental dedication.  While chemicals can be quick, effective answers to warding off garden pests, sometimes some very easy proactive approaches can be just as effective.  Probably the number one garden routine to establish is taking that daily walk in the garden to look for any changes in plant leaves, stalks or flowers.  I’ve caught many “new developments” taking place in my garden on several occasions and warded off major damage with that daily check (Tomato worms can strip a plant in the blink of an eye – I swear!)  That said, it also might mean thinking like a pest or insect and searching for signs of where they hide under leaves.  My mother-in-law, who was a great fisherman, used to say, “If you want to catch fish, you have to think like a fish!”  Same advice applies.

Hand picking off pests such as snails and slugs and destroying affected leaves is important in staying ahead of the game.  Planting garlic, dill, fennel, carrots and parsley among your plants also encourages beneficial insects such as ladybugs to rid your garden of a variety of pests. 

If you’re planting annuals or garden vegetables, rotate where you plant them from year to year, as different plants require different nutrients.  Weeding is also very important so you control desirable habitat for those unwanted pests.  A couple of natural offenses for pests are insecticidal soap mixed with water or pureed cloves of garlic (2) to a pint of water and use as a spray.

Two last thoughts.  First, don’t assume that just because the insect are harming your plants that they are harming your garden.  that can be a tough pill to swallow.  However, think like nature thinks.  These insects prey on the weak plants first.  They are easier targets with less native resitance.  So destorying yoru plants may be doing you a favor in the long run.  The plants that they kill likely would not have produced much fruit and owuld have still taxed the resources like water and nutrients just like they were your best producers.  Additionally if you save seeds for next year from this season, the seeds you save, after the insect have moved through, are naturally resistant to that particular pest. Survival of the fittest can go a long way to giviing you years of improved gardening. Finally, along hte same lines, since we know that insect prey ont he weakest plants first, make sure you have as few ‘weak links’ as possible.  Water adequately and provide additional nutrients with Monty’s foliar applications. Personally, I treat my plants to an extra dose of Monty’s 8-16-8 or 2-15-15 (depending on the plants growth cycle) once a week.

Ask Monty’s:

“My coneflowers this year looked terrible.  They turned brown and looked wilted all the time.  I tried watering them regularly and even fertilized them and they still continued to look deformed and the flowers were sparse.  What happened?  I would rather have had them not come up at all, they were that unsightly.”

Coco
Clyde, Ohio

Coco:

Coneflowers thrive in hot, dry conditions so you may have over watered them in your efforts to revive them.  But when you mentioned the plant deformity and sparse looking flower heads I think your plants have succumbed to aster yellows which is a disease caused by phytoplasoma, a plant killing microorganism transmitted by aster leafhoppers which can often occur from over watering.  Aster yellows can create the bizarre symptoms you suggest, along with other plant deformities.  There’s no cure for aster yellows so my best advice is to dig them up and remove any and all affected plants from your garden and destroy them by burning them or bagging them for the trash. Don’t put them in your compost pile.

Ask Monty’s:

“What’s the difference between a Multiflora Rose and a Virginia Rose?  They look the same and their flowers look similar as well.”

Trudi
Stillwater, Oklahoma

Trudi:

The only thing they really have in common is the fact that they are both deciduous shrubs and thrive in similar zones.  You must have seen these plants either side by side in size or in a photo because these plants are completely different in nature.  Multiflora Roses can grow up to 15 feet tall and are extremely evasive, forming thickets in all kinds of habitat, choking out natural plants and becoming a farmer’s agricultural nightmare.  One plant alone can produce up to one million seeds each year!

The plant you really want is the fragrant Virginia Rose.  This fast growing shrub gets between four to six feet tall and makes for a good hedge or as an addition to a wildlife garden.  The rose hips provide food for wildlife, hosts the Mourning Cloak Caterpillar and even have pretty reddish canes in winter as an added attraction.

Ask Monty’s for 6/30/10 – Elephant Ears for Northern Climates, Late-Season Cold Snaps, and Late Blight on Tomatoes

Ask Monty’s:

“When we lived in Florida I had several elephant ear mammoths, which I dug up and moved with me to Maine.  Can these be planted as a perennial in this northern climate or will I need to dig them up every year?”

Hailey

Hallowell, Maine

Hailey:

In the southern states, where the winters are mild, elephant ears are perennials. However, moving them north of the Mason-Dixon Line will turn them into perennials that have to be dug up before hard frosts and winter snow hits.  If you have it in a movable pot and have the room, you could cut back the leaves and bring it in the house in the winter.  Otherwise, after the first frost you can cut the dead foliage back with a scissors and let it go dormant for the winter by putting it in a cool dark basement.

About 2-3 weeks ahead of dormancy I would also recommend making an application of Monty’s 2-15-15 formula.  This formula is excellent for helping the plant store energy and developing the roots over the winter, however, it will not provide enough N to spur on any late season growth.  Then in the spring when you transplant them or get ready to move them back outside, start them off slowly with Monty’s 4-15-12 it will provide enough N to slowly wake them up and bring them around (if you will be transplanting them it will also help minimize transplant shock).  Once they are established well, feel free to use Monty’s 8-16-8 to develop the enormous, gorgeous ears that make elephant ears the pride of the garden.

One last note, in your growth zone, as cold as winters can be, if you leave it in the ground, like cannas, the constant heaving of the soil from the elements, will simply cause it to crack, rot and dry out.

Ask Monty’s:

“We had such warm temperatures in April in our area that I went and starting planting some of my cool weather vegetables and what I thought were hardy flowering plants.  A cold snap slipped in about mid-May – much to everyone’s surprise – and froze all my plants.  Is there ever a standard rule of thumb regarding when it’s safe to plant in a person’s particular zone?”

Devon

Bucyrus, Ohio

Devon:

What you want to find out is what the average last frost date is in your area or zone for starters.  Visit www.noaa.govand type “frost dates” into the search box and you’ll get some pretty valuable information.  Another great site I found was through an online retailer call Greenhouse Magazine who has a facebook link: facebook.com/greenhousemegastore that shows detailed charts for all areas in every state.  It even has a nice image showing what the average dates are in your area.

Even with all of the cautions in the world, sometime mother nature has some surprises in store for us. Even though at Monty’s we have not investigated it scientifically, many gardeners and even farmers swear by the ability of Monty’s to help plants withstand the shock of our of season freezes.  One of our favorite stories came from a farmer who farms above the high-line in Northern Montana.  In 2005 they had a freeze where temperature dropped to 28 degrees for over 4 hours one July night.  While his untreated corn and all of his neighbors corn suffered severe frost damage, his Monty’s treated corn showed no sign of damage and went on to produce a great crop that fall.  As soon as your plants emerge or get established start treating them with Monty’s 8-16-8 every week or so.  See for yourself if you don’t join the ranks of homeowners with amazing Monty’s tales to tell.

Ask Monty’s:

“Late last summer my tomatoes got a blight that destroyed all of them.  Is this something I have to worry about again this summer?  So far my plants look excellent.”

Ansel

Adrian, Georgia

Ansel:

Late blight does not winter over in the soil in colder climates, but in warmer climates it can still be a threat – even in Georgia.  Be sure to water your plants close to the ground so moisture doesn’t actually splash up on the leaves.  A good bed of mulch like grass or straw will help keep the moisture in and the “splash” factor down which should help tremendously.

An application of Monty’s Liquid Carbon to your soil in the fall and/or the spring (you can even make an ’emergency’ application now) will help to increase the organic matter in the soil.  This will give you two benefits: One, it will help the soils drain.  Well drained soils do not have the tendency to create anaerobic environments that are beneficial to harmful bacteria.  Two, it may help improve the overall soil environment and encourage the native beneficial bacteria population so that they out-compete the harmful ones for resources.

Finally, since you are tlaking about late blight, I assume your plants are already blooming.  Spoon feed the plants additional nutrients like a tsp of epsom salts around the base of each plant (for added magnesium) and weekly applications of Monty’s 2-15-15 to provide for the overall health and nutrient needs of your tomatoes. 

Like all pest, diseases, and bacteria, late blight is a symptom that something else is wrong with your garden or plants.  Across all of nature, disease and prey always attack the weakest first.  By providing the nutrients they need, your plants will be able to better defend themselves with their own natural defense mechanisms.

3 Generations, 3 Recipes, 3 Things to do with Cucumbers

To me, there is very little that is better than to bite into a cold cucumber.  In salads, on sandwiches, or as a garnish, they just scream freshness.  So this year, for the first time, I am attempting to grow my own.  I spaced my rows too close together, but otherwise they are doing fine.  With the help of Monty’s 4-15-12 at planting, Monty’s 8-16-8 during the growth or vegetative stage, and Monty’s 2-15-15 now that I am into the fruiting, I am harvesting about every other day, now.  My county agent came by yesterday to see all that I was doing and he said that I had so many blooms on my cucumbers that he could not count them all.  Which brings me to a question that you may have; what to do with all of those cucumbers?

Well, one of my favorite childhood memories was going to my Aunt Clara’s house. (technically she was my mom’s aunt and my great aunt but all of those vagaries escaped the mind of a pre-tween boy who was farm more fascinated with the days on the farm).  Aunt Clara was married to my Uncle Price (my namesake) and together they had a good northeast Texas farm.  I loved lunch there because each meal mean that she would open up a jar of pickles she had ‘put up’ that season.  I would eat as many as I could get away with, then sneak a few more in the afternoon when I caught them unattended.  After she passed, I asked one of my family members if anyone had her recipe.  I finally tracked it down and am now sharing it with you.  Truly, this is one of the best pickle recipes I have ever encountered.  It is simple but the results are wonderful.  I hope you enjoy making some ‘Aunt Clara Pickles’ this season.  Write back and let me know.

The second recipe comes from my mom.  She had farming in her veins but was the first generation to move off farm as she became a school teacher and missionary.  Needless to say her schedule kept her busy but she always maintained a garden patch or would enlist me to go with her on Saturday mornings to ‘pick on the halves’ at a local farm or to attend the Dallas Farmers Market before such things were trendy.  She never made traditional pickles, but she always had some ‘refrigerator dills’ going all summer long.  These modern "pickles" matched her lifestyle, they were quick, easy and "no muss, no fuss".  True, these are not pickles in the most explicit use of the word, but they also require no boiling, canning, or time.  What they lack in the true texture of pickles they make up for with the freshness of flavor that still carries a strong resemblance to cucumbers.  This recipe takes a total of about five minutes to prepare and while they are best if left to sit overnight, they can be ready to eat in as little as a few hours.  The recipe is below, under Mom’s Refrigerator Dills.

Finally, in this world of gardening and cooking in which I was raised, it was only natural that I would one day venture out and begin to try my own hand at each of these activities.  As such, I developed a quick light summer salad that can be used as a salad, a side dish, or a a great topper for grilled chicken.  It combines all of my favorite harbingers of summer, tomatoes, avocado, and of course cucumber.  You will find the  recipe below under  Summer Medley.

Aunt Clara’s Pickles

2 Qts. Water

1 Qt Apple Cider Vinegar

¾ – 1 Cup pickling salt (to taste – start with ¾ )

(Adjust above amounts proportionally to accommodate number of cucumbers.)

 Wash and Scrub Cucumbers

Place 1-2 bushy heads fresh dill w/stalks (fresh – not dry seed) into each jar.

Place cucumbers in jars – pack tightly.

Heat water, salt, and vinegar to boiling.

Pour mixture over cucumbers in jars to within ¼ inch of top.

Have new jar lids ready by bringing 1-2 inches of water to boil and placing jars lids (flat part with rubber seal) into boiling water for 5 min.

 Wipe off jar mouth with clean cloth prior to placing lids on jars. Place lids on jars (fresh from boiling water) and tighten retaining ring securely.

 Place filled jars into deep pan of boiling water sufficient to cover jars by at least 1 inch. Boil for 6 minutes. Remove from water (carefully) and place on towel to cool. Lids should “pop” down into concave shape upon cooling; otherwise, they are not securely sealed and should be reheated and cooled as above.

After properly sealed, store them in a cool dry area for 1-2 months to finish the pickling process.  Once they are finished, I dare ya to eat just one!

Mom’s Refrigerator Dills

Clean, Peel, and slice 2-3 medium to large cucumbers into ‘chips’  (If you are dealing with young, soft-skinned cucumbers you can skip peeling them)

Peel and slice a medium onion into rings

Layer mixture into a bowl just large enough to hold all of the cucumbers and onions

Add salt and pepper to taste (one clove of garlic is optional)

Add white vinegar until cucumbers and onions are just covered with liquid.

Place in refrigerator for at least 4-6 hours. 

Enjoy

Price’s Summer Medley

1-2 large Cucumber, 2-3 Large tomatoes, 1-2 avocados

make sure avocados are ripe, but not soft enough to make guacamole.

Pit and peel avocado, slice into six wedges.

Cut each wedge into two to three segments, set aside

Wash and cut tomatoes in to chunks, roughly an inch square or so. Set aside

Wash, Peel, and Slice cucumber into chips.  Cut chips in half.  (If you prefer you can diced the cucumber into large 1/2 inch chunks. Set aside.

In a medium sized bowl combine all three ingredients.  Add just a splash of olive oil.  Stir or toss lightly to coat.

Salt and pepper to taste.

If you have access to fresh herbs you may add those to taste, or optionally for spice add some dried chili pepper seeds or ‘Targin’ seasoning mix.

Enjoy!

Now as your cucumbers start to ‘come off’ you have three new recipes to try so you won’t have to wonder what to do with all of nature’s bounty.  With a little practice and patience you will have the fresh taste of summer, year round which is one of the things that makes gardening so enjoyable.  If you have a favorite recipe, let us know.  Simply send it to us in the comment section.

Monty’s Rose Care Calendar for the Month of June

Below are rose care tips from Monty’s namesake and the creator of Monty’s Original Formula, Monty Justice, for the month of June. These tips are based on growth zone 6 and you should adjust the timing for your specific region and conditions.

1. It makes good sense to enjoy the rose blooms in your garden rather than cutting long stems and foliage.  

A rule of thumb:  don’t remove over 20% of the stem and foliage at the end of the first bloom cycle.  

2. Dead head remaining spent blooms:  snap each bloom off without taking stems or leaves. Rose plants, at the end of the first bloom period, need as many of the leaves left on the plant to replace the energy expended in the initial growth and to provide more stems and blooms in the next cycle.  

3. Apply Epsom salts, 2 tablespoons per plant broadcast on the ground beneath each plant.  Epsom salts, which is made of magnesium sulfate makes calcium and potassium available to be taken up by plant roots.  The leaves will stay green to the base and will provide increased energy from the sun.  

4. Pulling off the lower leaves 4-6″ from the ground will minimize blackspot, mite damage and initiate new basil growth.  

5.  Apply a 2″ woody mulch to keep the ground temperature cool, soil from caking and minimize weeding.  

6. Continue spray program for insects and disease.  Always water the leaves and soil with thoroughly before applying pesticides. This will help to open up the stomata of the plant and the pores on the leaf surface so that more of the pesticide can be taken in.

7. Using Monty’s 8-16-8 will help encourage new growth, and help produce large foliage so that the plant can maintain higher energy for the next bloom cycle and for continued growth and vitality.