Author Archives: Dennis

Ask Monty’s 4/3/11: Nettles, Onions, and Burrs, Oh My!

Weeds are everywhere this time of year.  They are in your lawn and obviously on your mind as our mailbag has been full of questions about them.  This week our Ask Monty’s segment is dedicate to all of those pesky, unwanted invasive species.

First, just for information’s sake.  There is no scientific definition or classification of a weed.  A weed, by definition, is any unwanted plant.  Therefore, any plant, even a rose or tulip can be a weed if it is growing in an area where you do not want it to be.  When commercial gardening stores and manufacturers talk of weeds they are generally speaking collectively about a group of grasses and plants that are commonly thought undesirable.  For example, consider dandelions.  They are the bane of my existence.  However, in the culinary world, people like the bitter, peppery flavor of dandelion greens in salads.  So, even though I cannot imagine it, some people actually cultivate them and there are even farmers who raise them as a cash crop!

All weeds serve a purpose, it is only when they violate our plans and living spaces that they become problems. So use care in eradicating all of them. They may be providing you with benefits that you are not aware of or could be helping to tell you a story about the condition of your soil. Listen to them, work with them when you can.

That said, I know how frustrating they can be and fight the good fight against some of them myself.  Here are some questions and answers that have been on your minds lately.  Oh, and if you have additional questions either post them in the comments section or e-mail me at pallan@montysplantfood.com .

Ask Monty’s:

“We recently bought 50 wooded acres in the country as sort of a place to getaway on the weekends.  It’s a great camping spot, but when I let our dogs out to run they came back covered in burrs!  I have never seen so many of them.  Is there a way to get rid of them?”

 Gayleen
American Fork, Utah

 Gayleen:

Meet the cocklebur, one of the most annoying, evasive weeds found throughout the entire United States except in Alaska.  Their most notable characteristic is their abundance of spiney burrs that have hook-tipped spines that easily attach themselves to clothing, fur or passing, happy dogs playing.  Often referred to as “hitchhikers,” that’s how they seem to spread so easily by attaching themselves to anything that moves.

However, these horrible plants do have to have the right growing conditions to thrive in areas that are washed out, wetlands, disturbed areas, drainage channels, or in unattended fields.

In addition, their seeds and seedlings are also poisonous.  Animals rarely eat them unless they get in their grazing paths, but children and young people have been made seriously ill and have even died from eating the seeds, which both look and taste like sunflower seeds.

The best way to get rid of these weeds is to apply weed killer in the fall and spring.  Your local farm store, extension service or larger nurseries will be able to advise you on what is the most aggressive product to use.

One of the things to try this season if you are looking for a total kill with a ‘round-up’ like product containing glyphosate is adding Monty’s NanoBoost.  It is an herbicide additive that dramatically improves the efficiency and kill rate of glyphosate and 2,4-D based herbicides.  This product is only available from our agricultural dealers at this point, but with Southern States Co-ops now on board it should be fairly easy to find in the Eastern third of the country. Or you can call toll free and order it direct.  Read more about NanoBoost, here.  Then call us at 800-978-6342 to order NanoBoost.

Ask Monty’s:

“Last summer I noticed I had a lot of strange, thick-leafed patches of grass in my lawn.  A friend told me that it looked like wild onion.  Curious of course, and because it was obviously unsightly and out of place on the lawn, I dug one up to discover it had bulbs like an onion.  Am I going to see more of this in the spring?  If so, how do I get rid of it?  Is it poisonous, as I have pets and I’m afraid my cat may mistake it for catnip?”

Riza
Nicholasville, Kentucky

 Riza:

Wild Onions are harmless weeds, but they do stick up boldly out of a manicured lawn, looking very similar to an onion plant.  They are found all over the world and grow wildly, although some species are treated as culinary delicacies.  Nonetheless, having them come up in unwanted areas does not redeem their weed qualities.  They grow in the fall to early winter and can be controlled through post-emergent broadleaf weed killer on individual plants.

 Ask Monty’s:

“I have a patch of stinging nettles sprouting up in the corner of my yard, an area that I just haven’t had the time to maintain as well as I should.  What’s the easiest way to get rid of these?  They aren’t bothering anything, but I think I should get rid of it.”

 Carly
Abbeville, South Carolina

 Carly:

Stinging nettles and common nettles are one and the same: vicious weeds that are not pleasant to come in contact with no matter what.  It’s a perennial like most weeds, so unless you get rid of it soon, it will spread and become an even bigger problem year after year with its finger-like roots.  It’s hard to believe that some people will harvest it and cook it for its nutritional value.  

When eradicating this weed you can either go after it with an all-over weed killer in the winter or early spring or manually remove them by cutting them to the ground with a hedge trimmer and then digging up their roots.  Once you get rid of the roots though spray a herbicide over the area for extra measure.

One of the Worst Gardening Chores Made Easy

Most people, when you ask them why they don’t garden; or if they do garden if you ask what they hate about it will tell you weeding.  I am no different.  I hate weeding, that is one of the reasons i con my kids into helping me do it.  Well, my plan backfired on me.  My oldest child, my son, is now working a ‘real job’ and is graduating this spring.  So, I was faced with a thirty percent reduction in my work-force.

I happened to see a commercial on TV for a Mantis Tiller.  Now, with a background in media, I am naturally skeptical of ads; especially for over-hyped tv products. But, I was desperate for some other option other than chemicals or spending 1-2 hours a day out in my veg garden weeding. I finally gave in, if nothing else, to help me keep the morning glories at bay until my veg crops can get big enough to out-compete them.

This is not an endorsement of their product.  I do not sell them, Monty’s does not sell them nor are we suggesting you should buy one.  However, since I did purchase one  and since this blog is all about gardening, I thought I would share my experience.

I purchased the model that came pre-assembled.  All I had to do was pull it out of the box tighten the handles, fill it with a fuel/oil mix and go.  My garden is too small for this size tiller but I believe it will still come in handy for weeding/cultivating. I have not planted my garden yet because it is still a bit cold and way too wet so I decided to experiment with the new tiller in these flower beds. On this day I would be using it for two purposes 1) to renovate two flower beds 2) to edge my yard with the optional edger attachment.

The two flower beds were suffering from years of relative neglect and from encroaching Bermuda grass.  I love Bermuda grass.  It is hardy, it chokes out other weeds and looks good once it is warm enough to green up.  However, it has one problem.  It grows from rhizomes and refuses to stay where you want it.  It will invade everywhere and can be a real nuisance in flower beds.

You can see for yourself the job the tiller did on the front flower bed…total time, about 10 minutes.  The bed is a mixture of compost I have laid on top since last summer and native, moderately heavy clay soil.

After using the Mantis in this limited setting, these are my thoughts.

Starting – I have a gas weed trimmer and this is easier to crank than it.  Though, I recommend the quick-start option. If you let the tiller set and cool for even five minutes, you will have to re-prime it and use the choke to get it started again.  Otherwise it starts quickly.

Ease of use – Very easy, and very light.  It has a black handle by the engine and I was easily able to carry it where ever I needed it, one handed. (there is another grip if you want to use both hands. The speed controls are located on the right handgrip and easy to operate with your thumb and index finger. The thumb-controlled safety switch guarentees that you will no accidentally engage the tines.

Effectiveness – Very effective.  It chewed through everything:  Small roots, Bermuda grass rhizomes, thatch and compacted soil.  The trick is to keep it moving in a back and forth motion.  If you want to go deep, it will easily go down to about 7-10 inches.  The only drawback is that it does tend to pile up dirt behind it so you need to keep it moving.  This little tiller made the job of getting rid of the Bermuda grass and working my compost into the clay soil a snap.  I am looking forward to seeing what it does on morning glories in the veg garden this summer.

If you do have Bermuda grass, the rhizomes do tend to get wrapped around the tine axle. I had to clean mine off by disassembling the tines between flower beds.  However, that said, the cleaning process only required removing two cotter pins and took all of about 3 minutes.

As an edger – Okay, so maybe it was too much to hope for.  Once you start asking any product to do something other than that which it was originally designed, you run into some problems.  First, the optional edger attachment is easy to put on (see removing tines in the paragraph above).  It did cut through the soil and grass fairly easily and did establish a decent, if not perfect, edge.  In fact, it probably put a more consistent edge on my lawn than my weed trimmer does.    The biggest problems were in design.  It does not have a guide or a guard so it is hard to keep it next to the driveway/sidewalk without occasionally hitting the pavement.  I can see where this could lead to chipping and scarring the edge of the concrete, given time, and for some (me) that is unacceptable.  So If I were to give it a grade as an edger, I would say B-.

All in all, it is light, and it is effective.  It is a purchase that I am glad I made.  Though I would not count on it for heavy tilling or tilling extremely large areas (My garden plot is 150′ x 75).  I think it might be able to do it, but at only 9 inches wide, it would take forever.

There’s a (M)App for that (seven of them to be exact)

I am at once a techno-geek who loves playing with the newest and best in the world of technology.  I am also a closet “tree-hugger” who dreams of one day living off the grid and supporting my fmaily from the crops and animals I raise.  The new buzzword for that is “homesteading.”

This season, I am bringing the two worlds together.  I will be writing later this week about mapping your garden and the importance of doing so, as well as hsaring my map for this season with you. However, as I am spending yet another rainy, cold, spring day locked in away from my garden, I went searching for apps for my phone to help with my plans for this year.

While, as with most things, there ar more apps for the iPhone and it’s derivatives than for the android (my personal phone) there are several for each.  What follows is a list of some of the better apps for the iPhone that I ran across.  They vary in cost from free to 10-15 dollars.  If you have a personal favorite, be sure to let me know.

1) Botanical InterestsBotanical Interests by Netframes

Of those who have reviewed this gardening application on the iTunes store, all have given it 5 stars. If you have a vegetable garden at home or are thinking of starting a vegetable garden, this app may be just the one you are looking for to help you with gardening success.

Learn “tips and tricks” for helpful advice for gardening successfully, create a list of your favorite veggies and plan your garden with nearly 300 different “botanical high quality varieties.” Get comprehensive growing and harvesting information on any variety and send questions directly to Botanical Interests, the company behind the application that is a producer of organic vegetable seeds.

I really like the interactive nature of this app and the fact that I have an expert at my disposal makes the price tag a little more bearable.

Cost: $5.99

2) Pocket GardenPocket Garden by At Media

Calling all vegetable gardeners! This app is ideal for identifying and tips for growing hundreds of types of vegetables in your garden. Quite literally from Artichoke to Zucchini, you can easily scroll through seed types to find the exact varietal you want to learn about and/or grow.

In the My Garden section of the application, you can keep track of all the vegetables in your garden, make notes on each varietal and monitor the expected harvest date of your veggies.

This app also has a free version you can trial before buying the ad-free version.

Cost: $0.99 (or Free with the Pocket Garden (Ad Supported)Ad Supported Version)

3) Garden ToDo - Gardening ApplicationGarden ToDo by Building Rainbows Software

I quit carrying a pen and paper about 12 years ago when I got my first palm pilot.  This app is for me because it allows me to take copious notes without carting around a pocket protector pen and pad. With this app, you can quickly organize gardening tasks by priority, time entered or even customize the order based on your own needs. Assign pics of your garden from your phone for specific tasks for the scroll wheel and cover flow options.

When entering new tasks, you can choose options from the scroll wheel or enter tasks manually, making this application great not just for your garden, but also for indoor tasks as well.

Cost: $1.99

4) Jeff HaleGardening by Jeff Hale

I am terrible about remember when my average day of last frost is, or when I see the “uber-gardeners” gettign their plants in the ground (I learn alot from spying on my neighbors 🙂 ) Additionally, i am alwasy lookinf for new plants.  For example, I was watching “Chopped” on the Food Network with Ms. Gardener this week ans we saw a vegetable that we want to try…it is a cross between broccoli and cauliflower. So, for people like me who really need help with new plants and who seem to always forget, this application keeps a database of plants along with instructions on how to care for them. This application helps with knowing how to plant your seeds or seedlings and average harvest time of each varietal.

You can add plants to your personal garden list and keep track of each plant until you harvest them. This application also allows you to create todo lists and keep a journal (along with pics) of your garden’s progress.

Cost: $1.99

5) iPlantiPlant by Lundgren Consulting, LLC

If you read this blog regularly, then you know I am a firm believer in working with your landscape not fighting it.  Sometimes, though, I don’t know if a new species in my yard is invasive, or if it may help me ward off some other plant or insect. So for all those times you wonder if the plant that just brushed across your leg was poison ivy (yikes!) or a blessing that only looks like a weed, this app helps you identify more than 300 different types of plants.

This application goes into detail about plants common, scientific (Latin) and alternative names along with descriptions, common usage and value (medicinal vs. food) and any warnings that might be associated with the plants.

This reference application would come in handy in the kitchen, on hikes and in the garden, and with more than 150 photos, it’s sure to be a breeze to find the plant you need.

Cost: $1.99

6 ) iGarden USA - Gardening HelperiGarden USA by NanoSoft, LLC

This is another application to help you plan and track your garden. It gives advice on the best planting dates for each US climate zone based on where your phone is located. You can also learn the best planting practices for each type of plant in your garden. After you’ve got your seeds planted, use the garden tracker to monitor your garden’s process and get ready for the estimated harvest date.

This application was recently updated, and the update includes lots of new features that make this application more informational and easier to use.

Cost: $4.99

7)   Finally, this final app is more for desktops but It is still beneficial in that it can help you actually plan out your garden by type and variety and help keep you on track once you head out and start getting your hands dirty. Last year was my first year for mapping and it helped tremendously.  I will share more on how to map your garden later this week.

Till then, enjoy the first week of spring.

http://download.cnet.com/Vegetable-Garden-Design/3000-18499_4-10665705.html

How to Prune Roses, Correctly

In out last blog, in response to a question raised by a local gardener, we discussed some of the things that are typically done incorrectly when pruning roses. I have always been frustrated by those who tell me everything I am doing incorrectly, but then fail to tell me the right thing to do instead. So to that end, we went to the expert: Monty Justice. With our video camera in hand we asked him to show us what he does in his garden each fall to achieve and maintain the championship quality roses he produces from his garden every year.

In this video Monty discusses “Pre-Pruning.”  Pre-Pruning helps to give the plant its basic shape for next season, as well as working preventatively to reduce insect and disease pressure next season.

As always, feel free to get in touch with us with any questions you may have regarding Monty’s products, or with your own lawn and garden questions.

Pruning Roses Too Early May Cause Winter-Kill

Recently a member of our staff was talking to a friend who was busily preparing their roses for winter by pruning them back.  He returned to the office somewhat concerned that it might be too early. Chances are, his concerns were merited…mainly due to the protracted summer/fall season we have seen in the Ohio Valley this year.  But it does bring up the question, when should you prune your roses back ans what harm might you do if you prune too early.  With that question in mind I sat down with the president of Monty’s Plant Food Company and talked with him about pruning roses.

First, let’s establish when roses should be pruned.  In growth zone 5, where Monty’s is headquartered you generally want to do that sometime after mid-September.  Though the calendar should be used as a guideline, not a hard date.  What you are looking for is to prune sometime after nighttime temperatures start falling into the upper 40-degree range-if not every night, at least occasionally.

Why wait until then?  When you prune a rose it signals the plant that damage has been done and it immediately starts trying to recover the lost limbs.  Remember plants are not trying to please us; they have only one goal–to reproduce themselves. That is the whole purpose of the flower.  So when the canes are pruned back the plant realizes it has fewer possibilities for producing roses (reproducing) next year and it works to remedy that.  If it is still warm outside to produce the GDUs (growing degree units) needed for growth it will produce more canes.  These canes are very young and very tender.  Read that as very susceptible to frost and freezes.

Mechanically, what happens when your canes freeze is this.  Remember field trips in school?  We were always told to bring a sack lunch and a soda pop with us.  At my house that usually meant my mom would take a can of Dr. Pepper, put it in the freezer for a while, then remove it and wrap it in aluminum foil so it would be cold for my lunch.  However, there were times we forgot the can in the freezer.  The next time we opened the freezer door there would be frozen droplet of Dr. Pepper everywhere.  Even though most things contract as they get colder, liquids actually expand. The expanding liquid inside the can stretched the can as far as it would allow, but eventually it would stress and burst.  This is the same thing that happens to these new canes on your roses.  Inside each cane are plant cells that have some ability to stretch and expand, but it is limited.  As the moisture freezes and expands, eventually the cells rupture; that cell is now dead.  If that happens to enough cells, that section of the plant will die.  In extreme cases, the skin on the newly formed cane itself will rupture and create a small fissure or crack in the skin.

So what damage does all of this cause?  Well, if just a few cell die, not much.  the plant is resilient and will likely overcome the mild damage. If enough cells die, though, it can kill the cane. If a crack is created in the skin, insects will see this as a weakness in the defenses of the plant.  Believe it or not, many insects vision see things in infrared.  Because of that, this injury shows up like a beacon to beetles and other opportunistic feeders from hundreds of feet away.  It’s like a glowing neon sign at a diner that says “OPEN!”  This opening not only serves as a dinner bell for insects it is also a perfect breeding ground for bacteria.  So, the light freeze damage in the fall, suddenly becomes a point of entry for disease, bacteria, fungus, or insects that may kill your plant completely next season.

Prune canes back to 1/4 inch above a three-leaf axil in late summer or early fall for best results.

Additionally, all of the energy spent producing these new canes that will invariably die is energy lost to the plant next spring.  It is best to wait until the nights are cool enough so that the energy expended on new growth can be  utilized in the spring when those canes will have opportunity to produce the rose you desire.

So how should you prune, and when?  Again, wait until nighttime temperatures are in the 40’s. Then prune back every cane to a three-leaf axil.  You should always use sharp shears and cut on a 45-degree angle about 1/4 inch above your selected axil. (See Diagram to the right).  Monty also tell me to moisten your finger and rub it in the dirt after you cut the cane, then rub the dirt into the cut on the plant.  This, he tells me, will cover up the wound and keep the insects from finding it as readily.

Keep checking this post regularly as we will soon have more conversations and videos from Monty himself to give you the rose-growing tips of a champion rosarian.  Additionally, we provide answers to your questions each week in our “Ask Monty’s” section so keep posting your questions to the blog or send us an e-mail.  And when you write, or e-mail, make sure to include pictures of your garden.  We always like to see what others are doing and learn about the successes they are having with Monty’s Plant Food.

Ask Monty’s for 11/28/10: Sunflowers, Horseradish, and Starting a Greenhouse Business

Ask Monty’s:

“I’ve planted some skyscraper sunflowers over the past couple of summers, but it never fails that a wind or storm will come up and creates havoc with them, causing them to bend or snap in half.  They get about 12 feet high and are pretty neat, but are there other sunflowers that may not be as tall and a little more durable that you could suggest?”

Jackson
Chelsea, Oklahoma

Jackson:

There are quite a few varieties on the market that will serve your purpose.  Furry “Teddy Bear” and dwarf “Sunspot” sunflowers come to mind immediately.  They grow to only about three feet tall and are actually perfect for containers.  But if you don’t want to give up THAT much height, “Velvet Queen” and “Italian White” grow about six feet tall and do well planted against a sunny spot of the house – which will help protect them too.  “Autumn Beauty and “Ring of Fire” grow to about four to five feet in height.  If you’re looking for something a little more permanent, there is a perennial variety called “Flore Pleno” or Capenoch Star” you may want to check out.  The only downside is that they have smaller flowers than your annuals, but they’re terrific for cutting in fall arrangements.

Ask Monty’s:

“Is it hard to transplant horseradish?  A friend wants to give me some since it’s sort of taking over her garden, but neither of us knows how to do it.”

RanPaul
Wheeling, West Virginia

RanPaul:

You simply dig the plants up in either the spring before they really get going or in the early fall after you’ve harvested some.  Make sure you dig down at least twice as deep as your piece of horseradish root is long to provide loose soil for the long taproot that it has.  Water your new plants well and regularly to make sure they get settled in properly.   Overall, they are very easy to transplant and have little trouble adjusting as long as they are in a nice sunny location.

Ask Monty’s:

“I am a pipefitter/welder by trade. I am tired after working 30 years. My grandfather used to grow carnations when I was a kid and they were beautiful. I want to do the same for a hobby, but also eventually work to maybe to make it into a business. I would like to get started. Is it possible with a greenhouse type setting or even indoors? I have some knowledge of indoor growing with lights, soil and nutrients and have had some success. Can a person start a very small business and be successful at it?”

Abe
Devers, Texas

Abe:

Growing carnations to meet the American demand is big business – and done both in natural and greenhouse environments, so absolutely you can grow carnations in an indoor or greenhouse setting. When it comes to pursuing a business endeavor, large or small scale, I would recommend a greenhouse environment with natural light and grow lights for use only as needed.  And, most importantly it will allow you to control the environment in which they are growing in.

Carnations need full sun to light shade and must have at least 4-5 hours of full sun each day for good flowering success. They like light, fertile, well-drained soil which is slightly alkaline (pH 6.75).  Clay soil is an absolute no-no. Be mindful of not over watering carnations and good air circulation is needed around the stems at all times to avoid disease.

Yuai Nursery in Salinas, California, is the largest grower of carnations in the U.S., where South America is the leading producer in the world. There are smaller producers around the country, but they are not exclusive to carnations only for business survival purposes.

Ask Monty’s for 11/21/2010: Dogwoods, Loropetulum, and Winter Lighting for Orchids

Ask Monty’s:

“I planted small dogwoods a few years ago and although they get leaves, they never bloom.  I’m fertilizing, mulching and watering them religiously, but still no blooms again this year.  What do you suppose the problem is?”

Finley
Dartsmouth, Maine

Finely:

The problem from what I can determine from your maintenance program is that all the plant’s energy may be going to forming roots instead of flowers.  Between your fertilizer and mulch they may be getting too much nitrogen which promotes leaf growth and actually discourages flowering.  Unusually cold winters can also prevent flowering too by killing the buds, which is also a consideration in your region.

Before the ground freezes this winter, I would suggest an application of Monty’s Liquid Carbon to the soil around your tree.  Apply it from the base of the tree out to the edge of the drip line.  Will help open up the soil and improve nutrient exchange between the tree and the surrounding soil.  If it is too late this fall already, then do this at your first opportunity this next spring.  Secondly, Monty’s offers two products that make fertilization a ‘no brainer’ and since they are liquid, they are very easy to apply.  First, at first leaf, start applying Monty’s 2-15-15, this low N, high P & K formula will work with the natural cycle of your dogwoods to give them the nutrients they need for vigorous blooming.  Then, as the blooms start to fade a monthly application of Monty’s 8-16-8 will encourage aggressive growth and the formation of new branches.  This action combined with a good pruning program will help develop the size and shape of your tree for years of enjoyment.  Both of the fertility products will be best utilized by the plant if you apply them directly to the foliage of the tree using Monty’s 100:1 applicator tip or by applying with a hose-end applicator from your local garden center.  Finally, these are just brief tips; for a more exhaustive discussion refer to this pdf from www.mymontys.com.

Ask Monty’s:

“I have a border of loropetulum along my yard. When I put them in, they were purple leafed but now they have turned green. I just got two new replacements which were purple and realized how much mine had changed. Does that mean that my soil lacks something? Can you suggest how I can keep the leaves purple? Both bloom very nicely –  that beautiful bright pink bloom.”

Ann
Anderson, South Carolina

Ann:

Loropetulum do best in a partly shaded, partly sunny area in zones 8 to 9, so you’re in the right region for this plant. They also prefer sandy loam, a little clay perhaps for soil requirements and they do better in an acidic ph. However, while their water requirements are normal to moist, they do demand good drainage. Depending upon where you have these planted they may not be getting enough sun or too much sun and too much water. Try planting one in a completely different area of your yard that has exactly the opposite lighting conditions and see how it does.  Be mindful of its soil needs and monitor its water intake too. They like southern exposures if that helps at all.

Ask Monty’s:

“My wife is looking for lighting for the winter months for orchids (the common kind that we can purchase here) phalaenopsis. She is looking for artificial light and wants to be sure that it provides light without providing too much light.”

Randy
Lake Charles, Indiana

Randy:

There are two types of orchids which will grow well, year round, under artificial lights: phalaenopsis (known as the moth orchid) and paphiopedilums (known as the lady slippers).

There are other orchids which will bloom under windowsill and/or artificial light conditions, but these orchids require more light. The minimum set-up for the use of fluorescent bulbs is two 40 watt tubes. A practical set-up would alternate Gro-lux or Vita-Lite wide spectrum lights with cool white fluorescent tubes. The lights may be left on up to 16 hours a day. Because fluorescent light produces no heat, they should be within 12″ of the plants.

The optimum light for phalaenopsis is between 1000 to 1500 foot candles. Paphiopedilums, which require less light than most orchids, thrive at 800 to 1200 foot candles of light. I’d recommend buying an easy- to-use light meter to measure the amount of light, just for insurance purposes. If a mature, healthy phalaenopsis does not flower in its appropriate season, the reason is very likely due to lack of light, either in intensity or duration, so keep that in mind as you go.

Also remember, as with most plants, orchids need a ‘dormant’ period – a time when their reproductive and growth cycles shut down.  This allows the plant to store up energy for it’s next reproductive cycle.  What you see as a beautiful bloom, the plant sees as an opportunity to attract pollinators and increase its chances for propagation. Keeping that in mind, we know that it needs energy to make the best bloom possible because natural selection only allows the most successful of the species reproduce.  SO, as you let your plant go ‘dormant’ do not forget it still has nutritional needs, especially if it is planted in a sterile potting mix. Monty’s 2-15-15 will give it the P and K it needs for a more vibrant bloom cycle next go round.  So don’t stop feeding your plants, just change the formula and give them what they need.

Monty’s Rose Care Calendar: October

Continue maintenance program until hard frost or freeze occurs.  Meteorologicallly speaking, a hard frost is defined as temperatures at 28 degrees Fahrenheit or colder for at least four consecutive hours.   Apply Monty’s Plant Food (2-15-15)  to the leaves of your roses with minimal amounts of water for the soil. ( Click here to order) This product thickens the cells of the plants, and helps them retain elasticity, which may protect the canes from winter damage.  The more you can do now to protect your canes through the winter and to increase the likelihood that they will begin spring growth with little if any winter damage, the more likely you are to begin the new season next spring with larger more vigorous plants with little if any pruning needed. 

This is also an ideal time to remediate your soil.  Monty’s Liquid Carbon, if applied to the soil of your garden’s now will have time to start working before winter.( click here to order) This is important because Monty’s Liquid Carbon works in concert with your microbial populations and those little microscopic miners go dormant in soil temperatures below 45 degrees Fahrenheit.  Additionally, the normal ‘heaving’ of the soil during the freeze/thaw cycle will allow Monty’s Liquid Carbon to penetrate deep into your soil profile.  Finally, any Liquid Carbon that you apply now will be there, ready to work, come early spring when often it is too muddy to get much accomplished.

For those of you who experienced the deep drought and extreme heat this summer that we did around our gardens this summer, be aware.  The drought most likely caused your soils to collapse as the moisture was evacuated by evaporation.  This means that you will likely have to deal with compaction this next season, even if compaction is not normally an issue for you.  Monty’s Liquid Carbon is a great help to gardeners fighting against compaction-related problems.

Ask Monty’s for 9/30/10: Roses, Coneflowers and Organic Pest Control

Ask Monty’s:

“Do you know of any more natural ways to control garden pests?  I’m trying to stay as chemical free as possible, but some of my methods aren’t covering all the bases.”

Renee
Grey Eagle, Minnesota

Renee:

I applaud your approach and environmental dedication.  While chemicals can be quick, effective answers to warding off garden pests, sometimes some very easy proactive approaches can be just as effective.  Probably the number one garden routine to establish is taking that daily walk in the garden to look for any changes in plant leaves, stalks or flowers.  I’ve caught many “new developments” taking place in my garden on several occasions and warded off major damage with that daily check (Tomato worms can strip a plant in the blink of an eye – I swear!)  That said, it also might mean thinking like a pest or insect and searching for signs of where they hide under leaves.  My mother-in-law, who was a great fisherman, used to say, “If you want to catch fish, you have to think like a fish!”  Same advice applies.

Hand picking off pests such as snails and slugs and destroying affected leaves is important in staying ahead of the game.  Planting garlic, dill, fennel, carrots and parsley among your plants also encourages beneficial insects such as ladybugs to rid your garden of a variety of pests. 

If you’re planting annuals or garden vegetables, rotate where you plant them from year to year, as different plants require different nutrients.  Weeding is also very important so you control desirable habitat for those unwanted pests.  A couple of natural offenses for pests are insecticidal soap mixed with water or pureed cloves of garlic (2) to a pint of water and use as a spray.

Two last thoughts.  First, don’t assume that just because the insect are harming your plants that they are harming your garden.  that can be a tough pill to swallow.  However, think like nature thinks.  These insects prey on the weak plants first.  They are easier targets with less native resitance.  So destorying yoru plants may be doing you a favor in the long run.  The plants that they kill likely would not have produced much fruit and owuld have still taxed the resources like water and nutrients just like they were your best producers.  Additionally if you save seeds for next year from this season, the seeds you save, after the insect have moved through, are naturally resistant to that particular pest. Survival of the fittest can go a long way to giviing you years of improved gardening. Finally, along hte same lines, since we know that insect prey ont he weakest plants first, make sure you have as few ‘weak links’ as possible.  Water adequately and provide additional nutrients with Monty’s foliar applications. Personally, I treat my plants to an extra dose of Monty’s 8-16-8 or 2-15-15 (depending on the plants growth cycle) once a week.

Ask Monty’s:

“My coneflowers this year looked terrible.  They turned brown and looked wilted all the time.  I tried watering them regularly and even fertilized them and they still continued to look deformed and the flowers were sparse.  What happened?  I would rather have had them not come up at all, they were that unsightly.”

Coco
Clyde, Ohio

Coco:

Coneflowers thrive in hot, dry conditions so you may have over watered them in your efforts to revive them.  But when you mentioned the plant deformity and sparse looking flower heads I think your plants have succumbed to aster yellows which is a disease caused by phytoplasoma, a plant killing microorganism transmitted by aster leafhoppers which can often occur from over watering.  Aster yellows can create the bizarre symptoms you suggest, along with other plant deformities.  There’s no cure for aster yellows so my best advice is to dig them up and remove any and all affected plants from your garden and destroy them by burning them or bagging them for the trash. Don’t put them in your compost pile.

Ask Monty’s:

“What’s the difference between a Multiflora Rose and a Virginia Rose?  They look the same and their flowers look similar as well.”

Trudi
Stillwater, Oklahoma

Trudi:

The only thing they really have in common is the fact that they are both deciduous shrubs and thrive in similar zones.  You must have seen these plants either side by side in size or in a photo because these plants are completely different in nature.  Multiflora Roses can grow up to 15 feet tall and are extremely evasive, forming thickets in all kinds of habitat, choking out natural plants and becoming a farmer’s agricultural nightmare.  One plant alone can produce up to one million seeds each year!

The plant you really want is the fragrant Virginia Rose.  This fast growing shrub gets between four to six feet tall and makes for a good hedge or as an addition to a wildlife garden.  The rose hips provide food for wildlife, hosts the Mourning Cloak Caterpillar and even have pretty reddish canes in winter as an added attraction.

Putting Your Best Petal Forward (pt 2): Grooming Roses for Rose Shows

Editor’s Note:  We have compiled several videos from noted rosarian and co-founder of Monty’s Plant Food Company, Monty Justice.  As a seasoned veteran, frequent winner, and judge of the Rose Show circuit, Justice is a sought-after consultant and speaker on all issues related to roses.  As such, we followed him to the Kentucky State Fair in the Fall of 2010 so he could teach us what judges are looking for, how to prep blooms for presentation, and in short, how to put your best bloom forward whether you are competing or just want to display your hard work in your home.  We hope you enjoy these segments and we look forward to hearing about your blue-ribbon successes.

Most roses are beautiful, but all roses are not show quality.  In this video, Monty’s Justice shows how to present roses with the ‘perfect’ round shape and the proper display of their petals.

Just like any competition, what separates the champions from the also-rans is attention to detail.  In this segment, Monty shows some of the tricks that winners use to get their blooms ready to face the judges.