Ask Monty’s:
“I planted small dogwoods a few years ago and although they get leaves, they never bloom. I’m fertilizing, mulching and watering them religiously, but still no blooms again this year. What do you suppose the problem is?”
Finley
Dartsmouth, Maine
Finely:
The problem from what I can determine from your maintenance program is that all the plant’s energy may be going to forming roots instead of flowers. Between your fertilizer and mulch they may be getting too much nitrogen which promotes leaf growth and actually discourages flowering. Unusually cold winters can also prevent flowering too by killing the buds, which is also a consideration in your region.
Before the ground freezes this winter, I would suggest an application of Monty’s Liquid Carbon to the soil around your tree. Apply it from the base of the tree out to the edge of the drip line. Will help open up the soil and improve nutrient exchange between the tree and the surrounding soil. If it is too late this fall already, then do this at your first opportunity this next spring. Secondly, Monty’s offers two products that make fertilization a ‘no brainer’ and since they are liquid, they are very easy to apply. First, at first leaf, start applying Monty’s 2-15-15, this low N, high P & K formula will work with the natural cycle of your dogwoods to give them the nutrients they need for vigorous blooming. Then, as the blooms start to fade a monthly application of Monty’s 8-16-8 will encourage aggressive growth and the formation of new branches. This action combined with a good pruning program will help develop the size and shape of your tree for years of enjoyment. Both of the fertility products will be best utilized by the plant if you apply them directly to the foliage of the tree using Monty’s 100:1 applicator tip or by applying with a hose-end applicator from your local garden center. Finally, these are just brief tips; for a more exhaustive discussion refer to this pdf from www.mymontys.com.
Ask Monty’s:
“I have a border of loropetulum along my yard. When I put them in, they were purple leafed but now they have turned green. I just got two new replacements which were purple and realized how much mine had changed. Does that mean that my soil lacks something? Can you suggest how I can keep the leaves purple? Both bloom very nicely – that beautiful bright pink bloom.”
Ann
Anderson, South Carolina
Ann:
Loropetulum do best in a partly shaded, partly sunny area in zones 8 to 9, so you’re in the right region for this plant. They also prefer sandy loam, a little clay perhaps for soil requirements and they do better in an acidic ph. However, while their water requirements are normal to moist, they do demand good drainage. Depending upon where you have these planted they may not be getting enough sun or too much sun and too much water. Try planting one in a completely different area of your yard that has exactly the opposite lighting conditions and see how it does. Be mindful of its soil needs and monitor its water intake too. They like southern exposures if that helps at all.
Ask Monty’s:
“My wife is looking for lighting for the winter months for orchids (the common kind that we can purchase here) phalaenopsis. She is looking for artificial light and wants to be sure that it provides light without providing too much light.”
Randy
Lake Charles, Indiana
Randy:
There are two types of orchids which will grow well, year round, under artificial lights: phalaenopsis (known as the moth orchid) and paphiopedilums (known as the lady slippers).
There are other orchids which will bloom under windowsill and/or artificial light conditions, but these orchids require more light. The minimum set-up for the use of fluorescent bulbs is two 40 watt tubes. A practical set-up would alternate Gro-lux or Vita-Lite wide spectrum lights with cool white fluorescent tubes. The lights may be left on up to 16 hours a day. Because fluorescent light produces no heat, they should be within 12″ of the plants.
The optimum light for phalaenopsis is between 1000 to 1500 foot candles. Paphiopedilums, which require less light than most orchids, thrive at 800 to 1200 foot candles of light. I’d recommend buying an easy- to-use light meter to measure the amount of light, just for insurance purposes. If a mature, healthy phalaenopsis does not flower in its appropriate season, the reason is very likely due to lack of light, either in intensity or duration, so keep that in mind as you go.
Also remember, as with most plants, orchids need a ‘dormant’ period – a time when their reproductive and growth cycles shut down. This allows the plant to store up energy for it’s next reproductive cycle. What you see as a beautiful bloom, the plant sees as an opportunity to attract pollinators and increase its chances for propagation. Keeping that in mind, we know that it needs energy to make the best bloom possible because natural selection only allows the most successful of the species reproduce. SO, as you let your plant go ‘dormant’ do not forget it still has nutritional needs, especially if it is planted in a sterile potting mix. Monty’s 2-15-15 will give it the P and K it needs for a more vibrant bloom cycle next go round. So don’t stop feeding your plants, just change the formula and give them what they need.
