Helping Plants After A Drought

To meteorologists, “drought” is measured in at least two ways. The first is a measure of ground water and surface water as measured by the Palmer Hydrological Drought Index. The second is a measure of rainfall over the past twelve months as indicated by the Palmer Drought Index.  In either case, recent indices from July, 2011 through June, 2012, have shown the most extreme level of drought extending from Texas west to Nevada and California, north to Wyoming and into parts of the Midwest.

Palmer Hydrological Drought Index: Source, National Climatic Data Center

Source: National Climatic Data Center

In homeowner and gardening terms: Boy, it’s dry!

Let’s look at how you can help your plants recover once a drought ends.

During the drought, plants basically shut down and now need to be nursed back to health.  The pores on the surface of the plant closed to prevent moisture loss. The nutrients and water stored in the cells of the outermost leaves withdrew, causing wilt, curling, and shriveling. Finally, the chlorophyll withdrew so it could be used to sustain the “heart” of the plant, which is why it turned yellow, became turgid and brittle.  The plant opted to jettison those leaves and limbs to guarantee its ultimate survival.

A similar process took place below the soil line.  The plant at first attempted to grow additional roots, especially tap roots, but eventually the auxiliary root systems and the root hairs dried, withered and eventually died.

When moisture returns, baby the plants at first, and bring them along slowly. Our first instinct is to go outside and pour on the nitrogen, which, after a drought is absolutely the wrong thing to do. The plant cannot process the nitrogen without the leaf surface, limb structure and root hairs to take it in. Also, it can’t handle the added stress of being forced to grow with a limited root mass to support the additional growth.

Rather than using a high N (nitrogen)* fertilizer, use a high P & K (phosphorous and potassium)* plant food to start.  This will help build the root system so it can make use of the other nutrients and draw in the moisture needed to process the nitrogen. Monty’s Root and Bloom 2-15-15, a liquid plant food, is an excellent option.

Once you start to see vitality returning to the landscape, step up to Monty’s Growth Formula 8-16-8.  By this time the plants can support the robust growth that Monty’s will provide.

Remember the soil.  The drought has taken its toll on the soil as well.  All of the microscopic flora and fauna — including earthworms and arthropods — have likely died or moved on and need to be encouraged to return.  Soils most likely have collapsed during the drought, making moisture management a challenge and additional root growth almost impossible in the tight, compacted environment.  Using Monty’s Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner will aid recovery. While it is always a good practice to condition soils at least annually to maintain peak efficiency, reduce compaction and boost organic matter, in drought years it may be critical.

*Plant foods and fertilizers are labeled according to the percentage of each of these three primary nutrients in the formulation:
N (nitrogen), P (phosphate) and K (potassium, or potash).  For example, plant food labeled “2-15-15” contains 2% nitrogen, 15% phosphorous, and 15% potassium.

Anatomy of a Drought pt.1

The Optimism of Spring is quickly, cruelly crushed by the reality of Autumn.  — dpr    

 And with that quote, so begins my fall. All that I had hoped to accomplish this summer in my lawn and in my garden is now face to face with the reality of what happened this season.  My harvest has been acceptable, but just barely. I put up several quarts of cucumbers, I have tomatoes waiting in canning jars for some fall stews and pastas, my potatoes will wait in their earthen tombs until I get a hankering for them, but all in all the performance was lack luster. Sure, thanks to Monty’s my results were better than most in the area, but still not nearly what I had anticipated in those days of spring when I assaulted the earth with my hoe and seed packets. As for my lawn, the work I had done to rid it of weeds fell apart. Sure I was the only lawn without the plague of dandelions, and my Bermuda grass strengthened in the areas where it was already growing, but that is small consolation when you compare it to the bevy of crab grass clumps now growing where fescue once thrived.

I have talked the whole thing over with my county extension agent. Bottom line, my planning, optimism, and hard work were brought to naught by our drought. Again, small consolation, but I am in the same boat with everyone in the country except for New Mexico and Iowa, who, for some reason in the russian roulette called weather, received an abundance of moisture this season.

The only saving grace is that what we experienced this year can prepare us for next year, or the next time we encounter similar circumstances.

In order to do that, we must understand our enemy; in this case drought.

So here are some quick lessons about drought and plant response:

Drought- drought is defined as a prolonged period of abnormally low rainfall particularly one that negatively affects growing or living conditions.  Sometimes drought symptoms occur because of a dry period, at other times you may be receiving normal rainfall, but are experiencing unusually hot temperatures.  So you are getting your traditional rainfall, just not enough to support the additional heat units. In this scenario, you may not be in a ‘drought’ climatologically but it is all the same to the plant. 

Drought is not death- Many people assume that if their lawn or plants turn brown that they are ‘dead’.  This is not necessarily, or even usually, the case.

Learn to speak ‘plant’ – Drought response occurs in stages and by understanding the stages we can determine how best to react to preserve our precious plants. Everything a plant does is telling us something, from “everything’s okay so I’m growing and producing like expected” to “I need some help, here.”  

Understanding your plants response to drought – The wilting and eventually browning that you see is actually a fascinating plant response aimed at preserving life in the plant. 

  • Curling – When the plant senses excess heat or a dry period, the first thing it does is to make itself as small as possible. This is the reason for the curling leaves on broadleaf grasses, cucumbers, corn, etc.  The more leaf surface that is exposed to the sun, the more the plant loses moisture to a process known as transpiration. Secondarily, the more sunlight the plant receives the more it generates a photosynthetic responses.  In the ‘mind’ of the plant it is ‘thinking’ “Look, I don’t have enough moisture to support the growth I have, why do I need to get any bigger or add any more leaves/fruit.”  So, the plant simply curls up to slow these two processes down. To our eye it looks as if the plant is dying, when in fact it is doing everything it can to survive and conserve moisture and energy. 

 

  • Wilting – Plants do need a certain amount of moisture to survive, and if it is not getting it from the sky or a water hose it will eventually start to cannibalize itself; that is, take the moisture and nutrients from it farthest extremities to make sure the fruit already formed and the core of the plant itself, survives.   When this happens, moisture and chlorophyll is withdrawn from the outer leaves first in the absence of liquid, the veins and capillaries collapse. Once these systems are no longer turgid, the leaves grow limp and wilting occurs. 

 

  • Browning –  In the absence of chlorophyll the green color leaves, leaving behind the yellow-brown coloration of the plants infrastructure. As a last defense, the plant closes down all of the pores from which it formerly ‘breathed’ and exchanged nutrients, moisture, and oxygen with the environment. As the pores close off, the plant becomes very tight, rigid, and brittle, this is combination is what causes the crunching sound as you walk across a drought-stricken lawn.

 

  • Death – If the drought is not relieved, the plant will continue to same process, working from the outside in until finally the last of the roots and the crown of the plant (the growing point just about soil level) also succumbs.  At this point, the plant is truly dead and there is no hope for revival.

 

  • A quick word about your soil – Similar reactions are also taking place within the soil:  the top few inches dry out first, a hard crust is formed to retain as much sub-soil moisture as possible, organic matter is forced deeper into the soil to survive and the soil cells, once plump with moisture and pliable are now hard, crusty, collapsed, and will eventually crack (depending on the volume of clay).  Those cracks are signs that the soil did all it could to hold out as long as possible, but eventually shrunk too much to hold its former shape and volume.

Fortunately, droughts do not happen all at once, neither does the plant respond immediately.   Because of that, with a basic understanding of what the plant is trying to accomplish, you can intervene until all but the very last stages and still salvage your lawns or gardens with some pretty basic steps.  In our next blog, we’ll discuss how to deal with drought and how to help your plants survive and resume production.

Summertime and the Living is HOT!

Right now  we are experiencing one of those hot dry spells for which the south is famous!  The heat is in the 90’s and the humidity is in the 60-85% range leaving us with heat indices over 100.  Right now, I believe my heat index is 108.

It is not only making me miserable, my plants are showing the effects, too.  So, this week I thought I would share some tips on gardening in this climate.

1. It all starts in the spring.  Choose native varieties of plants that are already conditioned for your climate.  Trying to grow cool season plants in near tropical conditions will never end well.  Work with nature, not against it.  If you give in to a particular flower or vegetable just because it looks good in the magazine, you may coax it into surviving, but it will take you far more effort and water than you may have anticipated.

2. It all starts in the spring, part two.  Gardeners are always tempted to water heavily.  The rule of thumb is 1 inch of water per week.  However, once your plants are established, let the soil dry out a few times in between waterings in the cool of the spring.  This will encourage the roots to reach down deeper.  If you don’t do this and you are always giving the plants abundant moisture, the root systems will be shallow and the plants will be far more susceptible to drought stress when the upper two inches of soil dry out.

3. Mulch.  Applying mulch to your garden will do two things, it will help keeps weeds from out-competing your plants for needed moisture.  Secondly, it will help to keep the moisture that is present from evaporating as quickly.  Simply apply the mulch to within  four inches of the base of the plant.  In vegetable gardens, apply the mulch in between rows.

I learned the hard way this season not to mulch all the way up to the plant stem.  My county agent informed me that doing this keeps the soil too moist and helps it serve host to a wide variety of bacteria and fungal problems.  Of my 44 tomato plants I lost 16 due to soil borne pathogens resulting from my soil being too wet, too close to the stem.

4. When you do water, water deeply.  Most plants need approximately 1 inch of water per week.  If you don’t know how much that is,  simply scatter some empty tuna cans around your gardens and begin watering.  When the cans are full, you have watered approximately 1 inch.

5.  All plants are not created equally.  In your flower beds, cactus and other succulents can easily be overwatered. They actually prefer it hot and a bit on the dry side.  In the garden, okra and peppers are the same, while tomatoes and melons are heavy feeders and require abundant moisture.  With this in mind, water your plants in blocks rather than all at once so that similar plants receive adequate moisture.

6. Water in the morning, when possible.  The temperatures and conditions are most favorable for watering either in the morning or at night when evaporation loss will be lowered (good for your plants, better for your budget).  However, if you water at night and the plants do not have time to dry out, you will create a great breeding ground for bacteria and fungus that will ultimately be harmful.

7. Use Monty’s foliar fertilizers. Monty’s formulas are low in salts and will not cause additional crops injury or burn, even during the hot summer months.  Plus, the additional nutrients can help your plants better deal with stresses related to heat and drought.

8. Finally, your plants are not the only things that need water.  Keep yourself hydrated while you are working in the sun. Drink at least 8 extra ounces for each hour you are working (and sorry, beer and sodas don’t count..they actually will work as diuretic and further compound the problem).

If you have any tips, leave us a comment.  We’d love to hear from you and to see pics of your gardening success. Post them below.