Perfecting your soil this fall

By nancyc on October 4, 2012

Whether you’re an avid vegetable gardener, a flower enthusiast, or just want a nice looking landscape, the secret to your success begins with your soil. Rather than simple and static, the soil is a dynamic environment. In an ideal situation, it is full of tiny plants and animals, microbial activity, and all of the organic processes that lead to healthy plant life.

Here are a few ways to tell if your soil is functioning properly, and if Monty’s Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner can help.

Look – The first step to assessing soil health is to simply look for clues.  By observing what is going on at the surface you will have a good indication of what is taking place throughout your soil profile.

Key things to look for include:

  • Large clods after tilling
  • Cracks in the soil as it dries
  • Bare patches or areas where vegetation won’t grow
  • Heavy weed population
  • Standing water after a rain
  • Persistent “wet spots” or mud
  • No, or few, earthworms, pill bugs, and other signs of healthy insects
  • Heavy thatch layer or plant debris that does not decompose after a season
  • Pale soil ranging from almost white to light brown.  Healthy soil should be a rich brown to black.

Touch – Dig in to your soil. This is the fun part of gardening and maintaining your landscape.  By actually getting your hands into the soil you can tell a lot about the make-up, tilth and texture of your soil.  Good quality soil should be loose and light. In the morning when moisture will be at its peak level, dig in a few inches and grab a small handful of soil. Clench your fist around the dirt and then open your hand.  What happens?

  • If it falls apart into small pieces the soil is lacking enough organic matter and is tending towards a sand content that is too high.
  • If it stays together in one large clod it is likely holding too much water and is primarily clay, which can lead to compaction problems and anaerobic conditions which will favor the formation of harmful bacteria.
  • If it forms one central clod that breaks apart easily with slight touch or movement, is encircled by loose, separate bits of soil, you are on your way to creating an ideal environment for most plants.

Finally, if you have problems even digging into your soil at least 5-6 inches, you know that you have compaction problems that need to be addressed.

Smell – This is one that you may not have thought about, however, with a little practice your nose can tell you much about the condition of your soil. Healthy soils should smell earthy and moist, almost like well-maintained compost. If, on the other hand, what you smell is flat or non-existent, if it smells like a stagnant pond, or if it smells somewhat acrid, you know that you have situations that need to be addressed.

Gardening Practices – Some gardening practices themselves actually can be harmful to soil, especially over time.  And, even beneficial gardening practices may be enhanced. If you are currently doing any of these things, consider using Monty’s Liquid Carbon to remediate, improve, or expedite your current practices.

Not all soils can be transformed into an ideal state, but they all can be improved. By observing, touching, and smelling your soil, and by analyzing your current lawn and garden activities you can begin to see where improvements can be made. By making simple, seasonal applications of Monty’s Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner, either in concentrate or with the new ready-to-spray bottle, you can maximize the potential of your soil and return it to a plant-friendly, vibrant environment.

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Helping Plants After A Drought

By nancyc on July 22, 2012

To meteorologists, “drought” is measured in at least two ways. The first is a measure of ground water and surface water as measured by the Palmer Hydrological Drought Index. The second is a measure of rainfall over the past twelve months as indicated by the Palmer Drought Index.  In either case, recent indices from July, 2011 through June, 2012, have shown the most extreme level of drought extending from Texas west to Nevada and California, north to Wyoming and into parts of the Midwest.

Palmer Hydrological Drought Index: Source, National Climatic Data Center

Source: National Climatic Data Center

In homeowner and gardening terms: Boy, it’s dry!

Let’s look at how you can help your plants recover once a drought ends.

During the drought, plants basically shut down and now need to be nursed back to health.  The pores on the surface of the plant closed to prevent moisture loss. The nutrients and water stored in the cells of the outermost leaves withdrew, causing wilt, curling, and shriveling. Finally, the chlorophyll withdrew so it could be used to sustain the “heart” of the plant, which is why it turned yellow, became turgid and brittle.  The plant opted to jettison those leaves and limbs to guarantee its ultimate survival.

A similar process took place below the soil line.  The plant at first attempted to grow additional roots, especially tap roots, but eventually the auxiliary root systems and the root hairs dried, withered and eventually died.

When moisture returns, baby the plants at first, and bring them along slowly. Our first instinct is to go outside and pour on the nitrogen, which, after a drought is absolutely the wrong thing to do. The plant cannot process the nitrogen without the leaf surface, limb structure and root hairs to take it in. Also, it can’t handle the added stress of being forced to grow with a limited root mass to support the additional growth.

Rather than using a high N (nitrogen)* fertilizer, use a high P & K (phosphorous and potassium)* plant food to start.  This will help build the root system so it can make use of the other nutrients and draw in the moisture needed to process the nitrogen. Monty’s Root and Bloom 2-15-15, a liquid plant food, is an excellent option.

Once you start to see vitality returning to the landscape, step up to Monty’s Growth Formula 8-16-8.  By this time the plants can support the robust growth that Monty’s will provide.

Remember the soil.  The drought has taken its toll on the soil as well.  All of the microscopic flora and fauna — including earthworms and arthropods — have likely died or moved on and need to be encouraged to return.  Soils most likely have collapsed during the drought, making moisture management a challenge and additional root growth almost impossible in the tight, compacted environment.  Using Monty’s Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner will aid recovery. While it is always a good practice to condition soils at least annually to maintain peak efficiency, reduce compaction and boost organic matter, in drought years it may be critical.

*Plant foods and fertilizers are labeled according to the percentage of each of these three primary nutrients in the formulation:
N (nitrogen), P (phosphate) and K (potassium, or potash).  For example, plant food labeled “2-15-15” contains 2% nitrogen, 15% phosphorous, and 15% potassium.

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Ask Monty’s – “OMRI Listed” versus “Certified Organic” labeling

By nancyc on June 9, 2012

What is the difference between plant food or fertilizer that is “OMRI Listed” and “certified organic?”  Who certifies these organic products?

Rick, Eagle Mountain, Utah

Rick:
This can be confusing and maybe even redundant, but the terminology and two endorsements actually work together and maybe even simultaneously.

First, the term “certified organic” can only legally apply to food and fiber products, and not to fertilizers or plant food.  Second, as mentioned in an earlier post, fertilizer companies can use the term “organic” to refer to organic — or carbon-based — content, without any verification that any or all of the ingredients meet specifications set out by the National Organic Program to be listed by OMRI (see below).

The USDA has established the guidelines to meet “organic certification,” which ensures that the end product — food or fiber — has conformed to their strict uniform standards, which are verified by independent state or private organizations. The certifications include:

  • Inspections of the processing facilities
  • Detailed record keeping, and
  • Periodic testing to ensure that growers and handlers are meeting the standards which have been set.

OMRI - Organic Materials Review InstituteThe Organic Materials Review Institute (OMRI) provides organic certifiers, growers and manufacturers and suppliers a listing of input products for use in the production, handling and processing of goods which will comply with the National Organic Program.  One example of an input product is the fertilizer used in growing a crop.  It is not the fertilizer that can be certified organic, only the food or fiber produced with the fertilizer than can ultimately be certified (by the NOP). The OMRI listing generally reads, “OMRI listed for use in organic production,” and should be accompanied by the OMRI logo.  Again, OMRI does not certify food or fiber (or fertilizers) as organic: OMRI works with the USDA in complying with their standards.

Monty’s is proud to have our soil conditioners OMRI listed.  For those seeking to improve the condition of their soil while being in compliance with the National Organic Program, but without the labor-intensive, and often expensive, nature of other options, Monty’s Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner is a terrific product.

For additional insights on labeling, please visit our blog posts from June 6 and June 8, or visit these handy websites:

  • OMRI – information that organic farmers, handlers, certifiers, and other members of the organic community might find useful.

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Ask Monty’s – Labels that read “All Natural”

By nancyc on June 8, 2012

In our last post we covered the plant food and fertilizer labeling terms “Organic” and “OMRI Listed.” In our next post we’ll cover the term “Certified Organic.”

Today, we’ll address the moniker “All Natural,” for which there is no regulation.

There is a growing belief as society becomes greener that natural is always better – better for individual health and for the environment. For this reason, many companies use that term to entice you into buying their product.

Using the term “all natural” is not federally regulated and is used by companies as a marketing tool. Just how “natural” a product is and how beneficial it will be is largely determined by the company itself.  Rather than muddying the waters further let me explain what Monty’s means when we use the term.

Some of our products, like our Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioner, are OMRI listed for use in organic production.  Some, like our fertility products, are not. However, we can tell you, in full confidence, that our plant food products are naturally-sourced and derived.

How important that distinction is to you will be based on your objectives.  For example, if you are hoping to sell your vegetables in a local market as an organic product, then you could definitely use our Liquid Carbon Organic Soil Conditioners but we could not recommend our plant foods to you for that purpose.

However, if you are simply looking for a product with superior performance and that is not harmful to you, your family and animals, or the environment, then you can use our naturally-derived plant food products with confidence.

I hope this helps. I know it can be a bit overwhelming. For more assurance and to help you purchase with confidence I would encourage you to develop a relationship with an independent garden center retailer so they can help guide you to products — like Monty’s Plant and Soil Products — that will help you achieve your goals.

Listed below are some handy links to OMRI, USDA and organic growing websites.  Also, refer to our post from June 6, for information about the terms “organic” and “OMRI listed.” And stay tuned for our next post about the term “certified organic.”

  • OMRI – information that organic farmers, handlers, certifiers, and other members of the organic community might find useful.

  • USDA Organic Roots Collection – electronic collection of historic documents published before 1942 – a time before synthetic chemicals became widely used.  Find state-of-the-art information and data that is still pertinent for today’s organic and sustainable agriculture.

  • HowToGoOrganic.com – The Organic Trade Association offers this resource to help cultivate the growth of organic farming.

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Understanding Soil Tests Pt. 2: Good Soil, Bad Test

By Dennis on April 25, 2011

We know that healthy soils have certain components like NPK, and trace elements like boron and manganese.  We know that under ideal conditions plants work with the soils to replenish them each year.  When that fails we fertilize, either based on ‘best guesses’, habit, or professional recommendations. As we discussed last week, soil tests are vital and I have argued strongly for them. However, as our body of knowledge increases, one thing is becoming clear;  standard soil tests may not be telling us everything that is going on in the soil profile.  You may already be using soil tests, or you may begin this year, but what if the information was incomplete? If the information is incomplete, then the conclusions would be faulty. 

Good Soil, Bad Test

Almost 90% of soil tests solicited by homeowners are standard tests and these are okay. Where they fail is their inability to tell you what is available for your plant to use.  They will indicate how many units of a given mineral or nutrient are present. What they will not show you is how many of those units are actually in a useable form.  

Think of it like this. I go to the ATM at my bank and insert my card then request an account balance.  The reciept shows two balances: my balance and my actual balance (my stated balance plus or minus any deposits or charges I have.  Now, if I act like my “Balance” is how much money I have in my account, I can end up with some serious problems.  The information is not wrong, it is jsut incomplete because some items have posted but have not cleared. In a similar way, what you need to see in your soil is not just what you have, but what your plants have access to.

Standard soil tests are not, in the truest sense, bad tests. They just provide incomplete data. The benefit of these types of soil tests, though, is that they are affordable and most people are familiar with them. For a traditional soil tests expect to pay about $10-15.

If you are looking for more information, for an additional $10-25, a more in-depth test, known as a water soluble extraction can be conducted.  According to Ken Pohlman, Agronomist and President of Midwest Labs, this test not only will indicate what minerals and nutrients are in your soil but what percentage of those elements can be readily utilized by the plants.  “Water extraction is a more sensitive test. It can indicate elements present even at lower levels.” It is not enough to know what elements are in your soils at any given time, though, that is better than no knowledge at all. You need to know how much is available in relation to the other nutrients present.  In corn for example, zinc is crucial.  Without it, other essential elements will go underutilized, decreasing the yield and quality of your stand.  Pohlman said. “Trace elements can be a limiting factor; without the proper balance, your yields can plateau. The key thing to remember is that fertility is a process not a destination.”  

Paul Leeds, soil specialist and farmer adds that this test “only has value if you can interpret it;” you have to know what you are looking for. If you know how to read the tests, are working with a lawn and garden consultant or have a knowledgeable independent garden store rep then Leeds says the pay-off will be immediate. “It is the difference between buying a Cadillac and a Yugo; this test gives you more for your dollar. There are things that I will never catch on the basic test that I can catch utilizing the water soluble test.” 

Even more highly specialized tests can be conducted for nominal fees. Among information you may want to test for, consider these:  Texture Analysis, Cation Exchange Capacity, Micronutrients, and Organic Matter (OM). If you are seeding a brand new lawn, have not tested in several years, or are growing  flowers or plants for competition then the additional costs can be justified.

While soil testing does present some variables, regular monitoring will give you comparative data you can use to make determinations about your needs. When determining the ‘value vs. expense’ question facing you in real-world applications, Paul Leeds related his experience on his own farm. “I spend a lot of money on fertilizer, but I can [save enough money to] pay for these tests by avoiding buying things I don’t need.  We no longer put money into nutrients that we already have.”

Monty’s Plant Food Company President, Dennis Stephens, says, “You cannot make blanket statements.  Some products, like Monty’s Liquid Fertilizer, may allow you to cut back on traditional fertilizer applications IF your soil is in basically good shape.  We emphasize that you must start with a soil test. Once we know what is happening beneath the soil-line, we can adequately feed the plant and help balance the environment in which it is growing.”  He added. “In many cases, slight adjustments to your amendments, either to the soil, or to the plant directly will allow you to maintain or increase your results for relatively little cost.”

 Once you have determined to spend the extra money on these advanced tests you need to have a snap shot in your mind of what healthy soils look like so that you can make some comparisons and determine what is needed to create the ideal growing conditions for your particular crop. You also need to know what keys to look for in your soil test. We will spend time on that issue more in depth in our next installment. If you are looking for additional information check with your local county extension agent, extension soil specialist, or contact www.midwestlabs.com or Monty’s Plant Food Company.

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Understanding Soil Tests: If a Pound of Nitrogen Falls to the Ground and It Isn’t Utilized, Did It Really Get Applied?

By Dennis on April 19, 2011

Okay, so maybe my title this morning is a bit Zen for a Tuesday. But it does bring up a very valid question. We head out each year and apply pound after pound of fertilizer, but is it doing us any good?  The answer lies in your soil test. So we are going to begina  three part series on attaining and understanding soil tests. Let’s begin.

Combine one-hundred pounds of N, thirty-five pounds of P, and 62 pounds of K. Mix thoroughly. Add a pinch of manganese, a dash of copper, zinc, and boron. Once items are combined, spread liberally over one acre of soil. It sounds like a gourmet concoction, something to rival Martha Stewart. It is for lawn and garden enthusiasts, the Holy Grail; a one-size fits all formula for row crops nationwide. It, also like the Holy Grail, probably does not exist. We would even settle for a formula, by region, if someone would just create one. Even if you tried to create such a formula, it would likely only serve as a recipe for disaster.

However, most gardeners tend to operate as if just such a recipe does exist. At the local garden center or at a table at the local breakfast nook or wherever gardeners gather, you can overhear conversations about what is working on one particular lawn or another. The following morning you can track the participants to the local big-box-store door as they try to order the same formulation, assuming it will work on their lawn or garden as it did on the county leader’s property.

The main problem with this theory is that land is a living organism, and far from being the static expanse we sometimes assume, there is a vibrant and delicately balanced network of nutrients, chemicals, and organisms that extends from the top soil through to the bedrock. Because of the way they are interlaced, you cannot change one without impacting another. The end result is soil from one side of your field to the other may be as vastly different as soil from Montana is from Alabama.

We recognize the differences between states and maybe even within regions but we tend to treat similar plants under our care as if they all need the same ingredients. This, according the Paul Leeds, a soil specialist and farmer from Ontario, Canada just is not the case. The way the land has been used historically, the strata within the soil profile, topography, weather, and cultivation practices all work to determine what surpluses and shortages are contained within each section of land.

Leeds recommends that all farmers begin to know their soils by conducting a soil sample, then sending the sample to a reputable lab for analysis. Dr. Tony Provin with Texas A&M extension provides the following guidelines:

  • 1)      In fields up to 40 acres, collect at least 10 to 15 cores or slices of soil, from evenly distributed locations across the region being sampled, per composite sample. Because soils are variable, it is important to obtain enough sub-samples to ensure a representative composite sample. The greater the number of cores in your sample the more representative or reliable the results will be of your total landscape.
  • 2)      Unusual problem areas should be omitted or sampled separately. To properly diagnose the causes of poor crop production, collect separate composite samples from the good and poor growth areas. Do not include soil from the row where a fertilizer band has been applied.

  • 3)      Traditionally, soil samples are collected to a depth of 6 inches from the soil surface (after non-decomposed plant materials are pushed aside). Surface accumulation (stratification) of phosphorus and lime (calcium) from prior surface applications can dramatically alter soil test data. Stratification is of particular concern in parts of the landscape that are not generally tilled or disturbed (such as lawns) or in areas that receive limited rainfall or supplemental water. In these instances, sampling depths need to increase from 3 to 9 inches.

Once samples have been gathered, combine them in a large, clean tub and stir until all samples are thoroughly combined. Fill the sample bag or other suitable container with approximately 1-2 pints of a composite soil sample. Any suitable container can be used for the sample, but it is important to complete the information sheet and follow the instructions for collecting and mailing samples.

Once an adequate sample has been gathered, then you need to select a lab to analyze your soils, and to provide you with comprehensive results. Leeds advises that when you are selecting a lab you consider the following:

  •  History and Reputation
  •  Variety of Tests Available
  •  Reports are Clear, Concise, Easy to Interpret
  •  Lab has Staff Qualified to Make Recommendations Based on Report
  • Familiarity with Your Particular Type Of Soil

 Most Land Grant Universities offer testing services and you can obtain additional information through your local county extension office. Additionally, there are many national and regional private labs that will survey your soils, even some fertilizer and nutrient companies have working relationships with particular laboratories if you consult with your company representative. (Expect to spend at least $15 per sample) All soil tests and all reports are not created equally, in our next installment we will analyze the different types of tests and reports commonly available.

 The goal is to bring your soils in balance so that they have the proper nutrition to maximize your production and quality while lowering your input costs. Calcium is great, but without enough manganese to metabolize it, any calcium you amend may be wasted. Similar statements can be made about any fertility product, macro- or micro-nutrient which you may add. Worse than not adding any amendments to your field is to add them, at times at considerable expense, only to find out later that they were unnecessary or under-utilized by the plants. The important thing is to realize that all soils are different, state-to-state, yard-to-yard, even year-to-year within the same lawn and without an accurate snapshot of your field’s condition you cannot make the best decisions about your Lawn or Garden.

It is possible to return, or increase, fertility to your landscape. But before you can improve the environment in which your plants will be grown, you must first know where you are beginning. Once you are armed with the knowledge of your fertility needs you can make the best, and most economical, decisions to promote healthier, stronger, and more productive vegetation.

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White Clover, White Clover Let the Nightmare Be Over

By Dennis on June 2, 2010

This summer I have watched as white clover has taken over lawns across my region.  It has been like a rapidly advancing army of white Lilliputians bent on landscape domination.  I even sprayed some this spring hoping to fight back.  I did have some early success, but the stuff came back with a vengeance.  So I did some homework on the plant and this is what I learned.

First, white clover is your lawns way of saying, “Help!”  White Clover is a legume and as with all legumes it is capable of pulling nitrogen from the air and ‘fixing’ it or attaching it to its root system.  This Nitrogen is then available for the plant to use, but some of it gets broken down and added back to the soil.  In nature, white clover and other Nitrogen fixating plants move in when there is a shortage.  It is part of the whole miracle and awe of nature and a way to keep things balanced. Nature is using the clover to provide needed Nitrogen.

That said, the best way to control clover long term is to do a soil test and make sure that your lawn has everything it needs.  A good fall application of 19-19-19 fertilizer will have time to break down and get fully assimilated in the fall and winter months and reduce your problems next year.  By applying in the fall, you can also help insure that the application of nitrogen will not burn your lawn, and that you have adequate moisture to help the nutrient break down.

In the short term, you can use a broadleaf herbicide like 2,4-D, dicamba, and MCPP/MCPA.  A few words about these products: they are a broadleaf herbicide and will kill or injure almost any broadleaf plant. The good news is that they are safe for most lawns, the bad news is they can wreak havoc on flowers, shrubs, and trees.  Spot treat rather than broadcast, keep your sprayer nozzle to more of a stream or drip and keep it as close to the ground as possible to prevent drift to plants you like. Use when you know temperatures will remain below 85 degrees as excessive heat will reduce effectiveness and could volatize the chemical (convert it from a liquid to a gas).  Once it is volatized not only will you be watching the money you paid float into the air, but it can resettle on nearby plants and cause damage without you ever knowing it happened until it is too late.  I have seen an entire commercial tomato farm taken out by volatized 2,4-D.  The farm next to it was a beef operation; the farm sprayed his pasture for weeds.  However, the product volatized, drifted, and settled on the tomatoes; within a week every plant the tomato grower had was dead. So be careful and read and follow label direction.

If you are using 2,4-D I also recommend using a new product from Monty’s called NanoBoost.  It is will increase the effectiveness of 2,4-D and glyphosate based herbicides by helping more of these products get into the weed.  Learn more here.

Here are some brief tips on controlling white clover:

  1. Do a soil test.  Check for pH levels and Nitrogen levels
  2. Apply needed nitrogen in the fall.
  3. Spot treat clover patches with 2,4-D or other herbicide. Follow all label directions
  4. Herbicide treatments will be most effective in the fall, though summer applications can be made if temperatures will be below 85 degrees.
  5. Apply herbicides and fertilizers when the lawn is well-watered and not stressed as they will take in more of the products.
  6. Fertilizer regularly and encourage a good stand of healthy grasses.  Clover tends to move in to fill voids.

Editor’s Note:  I know that there is a growing group of proponents of ‘clover lawns’ who are anti-herbicides and pro-clover.  The above will be an anathema to them.  I believe in working with native grasses as much as possible which is why I am letting the bermuda take over what once was a fescue lawn. But I just personally can’t abide the clover invasion.

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Is Gardening Really Worth it?

By Dennis on May 17, 2010

That seems like an odd question to be asking here on a gardening and plant blog.  But I am an accidental gardener and a full-time marketing and communications person. So, ultimately, every question in my career comes down to an ROI, or return on investment, question.  You know, the stuff they teach in Business 101 classes; things like state your goals, make sure they are measurable, blah blah blah.  So, with that as my filter and with summer produce starting to appear in the grocery store at sale prices, I started wondering, “Is all this really worth it?”

First, as a primer, I recommend you check out these web stories.  The first from Purdue University then there is this one from our friends over at MSN.  Both come to this conclusion, it depends.

I must say that I would agree.  Some vegetables, from a purely economic standpoint, just are not worth the time and investment.  Once you account for your time, the equipment necessary, the land that could be used for something else (opportunity cost, thank you Adam Smith), etc., it can be hard to break-even on a modest size garden.  As you move to a larger garden and if you have family members to help you, then you can get some economies of scale but the costs can still be rather high for some fixed inputs like seed.

Here are some things to consider:

  • A good tool is worth it’s cost.  Don’t settle for cheap tools.  Buy quality, Buy Once.  I, myself, have opted to only add to my tool collection a little at a time.  My first year I only bought what I absolutely had to have.  A shovel, hoe, rake, two hand tools, and two garden hoses (later that fall after learning the need for one, I splurged for a wheel-barrow after an unexpected windfall left me with an extra $75 in my pocket.  It was ‘found money’ and i would have used it on Dr. Peppers, or i-tunes anyway…I figured this was a better use.)  By buying nicer tools, I am relatively assured that they will be here for several seasons and will perform as desired, hold their edge, and not break down. Y0u can get some really good heirloom quality hand tools here. (after three seasons, I have zero complaints).  I am still hoping to be able to splurge for a tiller in the near future from craigslist but so far I have not found what I am looking for at a cost that seems reasonable for a tool I would use a handful of times throughout the year.
  • When figuring your costs, some things can be spread over several seasons.  Garden hoses for example (each of mine were contractor grade and cost between $25 and $30) will not be used up after one season.  If taken care of, they should last for at least 5 seasons so my real cost is only $5-6 per year.  My wheel barrow was almost $75 dollars but I expect to use it more than a decade so again my costs will avg less than $10 per season.
  • Your consumable inputs – things you use, use up, then have to replace – are the real budget busters so look to save wherever you can.  If possible buy seeds rather than plants, buy seeds in bulk rather than pre-packaged, shop on-line or from catalogue centers.  I also highly recommend one in particular, Berlin Seeds in Berlin, Ohio.  They are Amish, so don’t expect to e-mail them an order or have online shopping capabilities.  But their catalogues are wonderful and their quality is very high.  Plus their integrity above impeachment.  Call and ask to be put on their mailing list @ 1-877-464-0892. The catalogues are not only full of seeds, bulbs, etc., but also have loads of gardening tips passed down from generations of Amish families and farmers. Finally, look for natural remedies with household products for controlling weeds and insects.
  • Improving your soil should be looked at as a process, not a quick fix.  Sure, you can do the quick fix thing, but it will be VERY expensive.  Compost and manures are availble for free if you are willing to do your homework. Monty’s Liquid Carbon can also help expedite the process.  Work with your county extension agent to do a soil test, and to find out what plants perform well in your area.  Some plants, or some varieties of plants, just won’t grow in your climate/soil.  Start by working with what nature gives you and amend your garden to your needs a section at a time.

Here are the break-outs of some costs  I have incurred while getting my gardening lifestyle up and going.

  • Hoses (3)                           $  25.00 ea
  • Seed packets                    $    1.29 each
  • Seed (bulk)                       $     1-3 per pound  1/4 to 1/2 pound has been more than enough for anything I have grown.
  • Hoe                                     $  19.00  Local Hardware store
  • Rake                                   $  22.00 Local Hardware store
  • Hand-tools                      $ 7-21.00 plus shipping from Wilcox All Pro Tools
  • Wheel Barrow                $ 72.00    From Local farmer’s Co-op
  • Compost and manure $ FREE     worked with county gov. and some local farmers. All it cost me was time.
  • Chemicals                        $ 24.00 qt.   I use these very sparingly, and mainly for weed control in spring or fall. Once I have crops in the garden I hand weed.  Insect control,  I use household products, hand remove slugs, beetles and eggs and pray alot.
  • Water                                 $   3.00 per month – This is about the difference in my water bill once my garden is in.  I make sure my garden receives at least 1 inch of moisture per week.  I would rather pay for a little bit of water and make sure I get to harvest a crop.  For example, last season, my neighbor who is an old-timer and firmly believes that God will send all the water that the plants need and he “ain’t about to waste money watering no plants” got about 1/3rd – 1/2 less produce last summer than I did, even though his garden, by all rights, looks better than mine.
  • Fertilizer              $  75.00 per season.  I use Monty’s three formulas exclusively and the quart bottles are more than enough to get me through the season. Even though I spoon feed them at least twice a week.
  • Pump Sprayers  $10-25   I own two.  The first one cost me almost $25  last season and nothing goes in it but herbicides.  I strongly believe in segregating between ‘death chemicals’ – herbicides etc… and ‘life chemicals’ – my liquid fertilizers and soil conditioners.  This season, though, when I bought my second sprayer the price had fallen dramatically to only $10.00 for the same size/same brand/same store.

In season, it may be hard to feel like it makes financial sense to garden, after all produce is coming in from producers who have economies of scale and can sale things more cheaply than you can raise them.  BUT, keep an eye on the savings in the fall and winter because that is when you savings will really add up.  For example, this year at Christmas all of our side dishes came from our own garden.  Tomatoes and onions that were near two dollars a pound and kinda mealy at the store were fresh, ‘free,’ and as close as my pantry and freezer.  Ditto that for my daughter’s recent birthday.  Plus, there is a sense of pride that overwhelms you when you sit down to fresh frozen okra at supper while the snow is piling up outside.

Now, I realize that this has reduced things to a mere economic question and there are myriad other reasons like health, quality, accessibility, exercise, and sheer enjoyment that are hard to quantify.  But if you garden smart, and grow slowly, you can make gardening worth it, not only for the food you receive but for the pleasure and the satisfaction of a job well done.

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Build Your Own Home-made Automated Irrigation and Fertility Injection System for Under $50

By Dennis on January 17, 2010

Brent Coffee’s farm in Northern Arkansas is a testament togreen production techniques and the cost saving nature of what we used to call ‘southern ingenuity.’  Both he and his wife work full time and his job has him on the road through most of the summer.  He wants the benefits of his home garden but can’t always guarantee he will be home when his crops need to be watered or fertilized.  So, using a recycled chemical drum and some common parts, he built his own watering system that also applies Monty’s Liquid Fertilizer to his garden as it waters.

When we spoke Brent showed me how simple this is to build for under $50.  These applications of Liquid Fertilizer are the only nutrients the garden receives apart from what is available naturally through the compost-based raised beds.

 Home Irrigation and Automated Fertilizer for under $50

Learn how you can build a similar system by watching this video segment from Brent.

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Time to Work Those Glutens

By Dennis on January 15, 2010

So, you’re looking out the window, snow on the ground– a little stir-crazy–waiting to start your spring projects out in the garden.  After you have spent as much time dreaming and planning and going through seed catalogs as you can bear, you just want to DO something.  I understand.

So, here is a project that you can do long before your soil is ready for planting and it will save you hours of weed-work later this season.  As an additional benefit, it will control weeds and serve as a fertilizer while maintaining a natural approach to gardening.

Corn Gluten Meal makes an excellent organic or all-natural weed and feed fertilizer but the trick is to get it

Corn Gluten Meal is an effective all-natural pre-emergent herbicide and fertilizer. It is available in bulk (shown) and in bags or cannisters

Corn Gluten Meal is an effective all-natural pre-emergent herbicide and fertilizer. It is available in bulk (shown) and in bags or cannisters

 out before the weed seeds begin to germinate. Corn Gluten Meal is a by-product of the wet-milling process of corn.  Ethanol plants make it, liquor distillers make it and for years it has been used as a high quality feed for cattle, especially dairy cattle.  In the 1990’s those some enterprising students from Iowa State University discovered its benefits as a pre-emergent herbicide.

You will want to apply approximately 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet between Feb 15th and March 15th, depending on your climate.  A second application can be made around June 1st for late flush weed crops, and again post-harvest for any winter weeds that may appear in your garden.  If you are using ‘green manure’ cover crops, wait until after these plants have germinated and started growing before applying Corn Gluten Meal.  The key is to get the product down before the seeds germinate.

Additionally, at 10 percent N content, Corn Gluten Meal also makes a good supplemental source of nitrogen and a nice organic fertilizer

Various sized packages of Corn Gluten Mealcan be purchased at your local independent garden retailer in either a natural powder form or, combined with binders, in a pelletized form.  the powder form is farm more effective and cheaper, but they will be very dusty and messy and a bit harder to work with in most situations. 

As many of you know, there is money to be made catering to the zealous nature of many green gardeners and enterprising business owners have capitalized on this by elevating costs of these products compared to their synthetic counterparts.  So, you can purchase the commercially available forms of Corn Gluten Meal, however, if you are willing to put in the back work and do the research, many of you can find it far cheaper in bulk.  Look for a feed store or feed mill in your county or an adjacent county, this is the place where local farmers will go to purchase raw feed-stuffs for their livestock.  Around Monty’s home office Burkmann Mills is a good source of Corn Gluten Meal.  In your area, just look for a location that will either custom-mix rations or ask a local farm store if they sell it.  Once you find your source they will either sell it in super-sized bags or may even be able to fill up your pick-up bed with lose bulk meal.  Also, if you live near a distillery or an ethanol plant, give them a call and ask if they sell the meal direct to the public.  Most do, but be warned, this is a great cattle feed and many of these locations have a waiting list for everything they spin-off from their distillers.  Finally, if you have a dairy farm in your area and you do not need much, you might talk to the farmer.  He may be willing to sell you what you need, and while you’re at it, you can ask him about picking up some free manure (trust me they have more then they know what to do with!)

That’s really all there is to it.  Just a few notes on using and storing it.

  • Make sure you lightly incorporate it into the soil as it will attract animals if it is just left on the surface
  • Do not let it get wet, and make sure you clean your wheelbarrow, spreader, (and back of your pick-up if buying in bulk) well.  If not, when Corn Gluten Meal gets wet the resultant fermentation leaves an odor reminiscent of REALLY strong stale beer. It is more than a bit overwhelming.
  • Do NOT apply within 2 weeks of planting from seed.  This stuff does not know a weed-seed from a beneficial and it will damage your vegetable/flower seeds.  This is a non-selective herbicide.
  • Do NOT use this in conjunction or simultaneously with traditional herbicides, the synthetic herbicides will cancel out the benefits of the Corn Gluten Meal.
  • Soil sample until you reach a comfort level with using this product but this should take care of most of your Nitrogen needs for the period in which application is made.

Now that you know what to do, how to do it, and where to get it.  You have an activity that can get you outside and get you started on your garden.  Just follow these simple guidelines and precautions and you will be one step closer to the all-natural, weed-free garden you always wanted.

For additional information on the original study and on corn gluten in general, check out this article.

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