Author Archives: Dennis

Putting Your Best Petal Forward (pt 1): What the Judges are Looking for

By Dennis on September 8, 2010

Editor’s Note:  We have compiled several videos from noted rosarian and co-founder of Monty’s Plant Food Company, Monty Justice.  As a seasoned veteran, frequent winner, and judge of the Rose Show circuit, Justice is a sought-after consultant and speaker on all issues related to roses.  As such, we followed him to the Kentucky State Fair in the Fall of 2010 so he could teach us what judges are looking for, how to prep blooms for presentation, and in short, how to put your best bloom forward whether you are competing or just want to display your hard work in your home.  We hope you enjoy these segments and we look forward to hearing about your blue-ribbon successes.

Monty talks with us about what Judges are looking for in a winning rose.

In this segment, Monty examines a good specimen of a garden rose and uses it as an example of what the judges will notice.

Monty stops by one exhibit to show a flaw that judges are quick to notice in any competition.

Perfection aside, at the end of the day, what most novices appreciate about a rose is the way they smell. This class is custom suited for the beginning rose grower and the rank-and-file hobbyist who just appreciates the simple aspects of fresh roses. Put away your magnifying class and stop and smell the roses awhile.

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Monty’s Rose Care Calendar for September

By Dennis on September 7, 2010

Below are rose care tips from Monty’s namesake and the creator of Monty’s Original Formula, Monty Justice, for the month of June. These tips are based on growth zone 6 and you should adjust the timing for your specific region and conditions.

September:   The hottest, most stressful days of summer are behind us, and if you have taken care of your roses all year, then you are getting ready for a beautiful display of new blooms.  I recommend using Monty’s 2-15-15 sprayed to the foliage of the plants to improve this flush of blooms and increase the vibrancy and their staying power.  However, one drawback to the cool nights and warm days is that the plants will not dry out as well as they do during the summer; this leads to mildew problems.  Spray purplish red growth at the top of the plants; treat for mildew as needed.  

When cutting blooms for your enjoyment you should have been cutting stems as long as desired since July. Be careful not to cut too much of the stem when you remove your roses for shows or for home enjoyment.  If you trim them back too far or if you prune too heavily there will not be enough sun or energy left to establish the base for new growth for next season.

Editor’s Note: September is also the time of year that many will be grooming their roses for exhibition.  Keep watching this blog for tips on what the judges are looking for and how to present your roses so they can put their best petal forward.

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Ask Monty’s for 9/6/2010 – Winter Veggies, Tomato Rot, and Planting with Hardscapes

By Dennis on September 7, 2010

 Ask Monty’s:

“I’d like to plant some winter vegetables – I’m not ready to quit having fresh vegetables just yet!  What vegetables do you suggest I start with?”

Ambrose, Chickasha, Oklahoma

Ambrose:

You actually have quite a few options in your area – a little farther north though and your choices start to become more limited.  First of all, keep in mind that the best place to plant your winter crop will be in an area that has the most southern exposure you can get and a spot that will be best protected from the wind.  You need all the warmth you can get and no drying, cold winds to terrorize your efforts.  Plant your crops in the soil and not in raised beds either.  While a raised bed warms up fast in the spring, it is far too exposed to retain heat for winter crops.

That said, Kale is a good crop for greens for soups or just “greens” in the crock pot. Kale can even survive throughout the winter even in sub zero weather.  For a late fall or early winter you can plant Bok Choi, which has delicate white stalks and greens and are excellent for stir frying. It also matures quickly. 

Turnips are one of my all time favorites.  As a root crop they serve a duo food purpose with both their greens and fleshy radish like vegetable that they produce.  While the tops may finally freeze off, the turnip itself will grow right up until the ground turns hard.  But beware, deer love these and will seek them out readily!  I swear I think they can smell them!

Beets are excellent and similar to the turnip with their tops actually being even more durable to cold weather.  Certain types of lettuce also do well in early fall predominately.  Broccoli is also very resistant to cold.

A key factor in how well your crops will yield has to do with how well you protect them from the cold. If you have a greenhouse, you’re in great shape, but even cold frames and sheets and blankets will help protect your plants from the cold night temperatures.  I’ve even used a 75 watt light bulb and holiday string lights under the sheets to keep heavy frosts at bay!

Water your plants regularly of course, but stop once the threat of frost is evident.  The soil will hold the moisture, as will the plants, so excessive moisture will cause the plants to freeze.   

Ask Monty’s:

“Every year I struggle with tomatoes growing close to the ground and despite my religious mulching practice if I don’t catch them in time they rot as they ripen.  Other than staking them and running the risk of the heavy fruit laden branches breaking, what can a person do?”

Thad
Pasadena, Maryland

Thad:

I discovered a pretty simple solution to this same problem.  I plant my young plants in sturdy paper two quart square containers – like orange juice comes in – cutting the ends out and sinking them a ways in the ground to support the young plants.  They’re sturdy and durable and can simply be left in the ground as the plant grows until fall clean up.  I mulch the ground with grass clippings like I normally do to keep the moisture in and then I use plastic case size soft drink carriers that are only as high as a pop can, of course, and place them around the plants, leaving ample room around them.  As the plants grow and spread they lie across the containers safely up off the ground to hinder ground rot and keep air circulation.  I have cut my tomato rot down by at least 75%! 

Ask Monty’s:

“What plants thrive best in rock gardens, particularly between them?”  

Shay
Shad, Ohio

Shay:

Hens and chicks come to mind immediately.  Sedum will grow just about anywhere, but you would probably do better with the ground covering stone crop varieties which are even more drought resistant, smaller and will spread out and lounge over rocks and walks nicely.  Phlox comes in all colors, leaving a nice lush mat even when their little flowers are done blooming in early spring.  Even herbs like dill, fennel and mint will do well in rock gardens and serve duo purposes and interest, becoming lusher as you cut and use them.

If you have a lot of intense shade in an area of your rock gardens, even lily of the valley will spread easily though the soil cracks, as well Chinese lanterns.  But both of these plants will spread quickly so make sure you have a lot of room for these guys.

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Ask Monty’s for 8/30/2010 Rain Barrels, Tomatoes, and Herbs

By Dennis on August 30, 2010

Ask Monty’s:

“I want to put in some rain barrels at the bottom of my downspouts for all the right reasons.  I was wondering if it makes a difference as to what kind of material the barrels are made of.”

Lowell,
Clifton, Colorado

Lowell:

Welcome to one of the most rewarding and easiest forms of water conservation!  Your plants and garden are going to love your mineral rich rainwater, while slashing your water consumption by up to 40% depending on how much you use it.  Plastic or wood rain barrels are fine and are sold commercially.  The normally come in 25 to 100 gallon options.

Just something to keep in mind though as a note of caution, rain barrels that collect water from copper roofs or from roofs where wood shingles or shakes have been treated with chromated copper arsenate to prevent moss or algae growth should not be used on editable plants.  If you have treated your roof with any chemicals at all you won’t want to use that water either.

Two other notes on rain water collection barrels:

In your neck of the woods especially, you’ll want to empty your rain barrel when the weather starts to freeze over the winter.  If you don’t have a protected indoor area to store it, just turn it upside down and secure it to prevent animals from making a winter home in it or getting water accumulation in it which can freeze, expand, and potentially crack the barrel, especially one that is made of plastic.

Finally, make sure you keep a mesh screen over the top and that you clean it frequently.  The mess can collect debris which will interfere with collection and provide a place for mold and mildew to form.  However, without one all of those items will end up in your barrel and can foul your water.  Additionally, mosquitoes look for ponded, still water to lay their eggs.  An open rain barrel would make an ideal breeding ground for them.  Not only will that make time in your yard less pleasant, across the south this year there has been another outbreak of west nile virus. By eliminating standing water form your property you can greatly reduce mosquito populations for you and your neighbors.

If you are having trouble finding a barrel in your area, may we suggest you talk to one of our friends in Louisville?  This is the link to Naturally Horton’s  for those in the Louisville Metro, its in The Highlands.

Ask Monty’s: 

“When is the best time to harvest herbs?”

Carol
Aitkin, Minnesota

Carol:

The best time to harvest herbs is right before the flowers open.  This is when their aroma and taste in their essential oils are at their peak like thyme, basil and mint.  The preferred time to pick them is also in the morning when they are at their freshest and the most potent.  Never pick herbs in wet or humid conditions. Finally, Monty’s 2-15-15 works well to keep the plants in the flower cycle and may help elevate brix levels, which in herbs will increase the aromatics and flavors as well as improve shelf life.

Also, don’t forget one of our favorite places to visit and to visit virtually is Beagle Ridge Herb Farm in Wytheville, VA.  They are a great source for information for all things herbs, natural gardening, and GARLIC!  check them out here.

Ask Monty’s:

“I’ve read that instead of pulling out spent tomato plants, you can simply cut them back and keep watering them to encourage new growth and fruit.  Is there any truth to this?”

Mike
Norwalk, Iowa

Mike:

Depending on your weather cooperation, this is true and new growth will develop, along with a respectable new harvest.  Make sure you pick tomatoes often, keeping the weight off the stems and branches so they don’t break or bend.  It’ll also give your other plants more room to produce freely.

Once you prune them, you will want ot help encourage new growth as well as help the plant deal with the stresses involved with pruning.  Monty’s 8-16-8 should help with that, then once your plants have regrown and have begun to set blooms again, switch to Monty’s 2-15-15 to enhance flower set and fruit production.

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Anatomy of a Drought pt.1

By Dennis on August 23, 2010

The Optimism of Spring is quickly, cruelly crushed by the reality of Autumn.  — dpr    

 And with that quote, so begins my fall. All that I had hoped to accomplish this summer in my lawn and in my garden is now face to face with the reality of what happened this season.  My harvest has been acceptable, but just barely. I put up several quarts of cucumbers, I have tomatoes waiting in canning jars for some fall stews and pastas, my potatoes will wait in their earthen tombs until I get a hankering for them, but all in all the performance was lack luster. Sure, thanks to Monty’s my results were better than most in the area, but still not nearly what I had anticipated in those days of spring when I assaulted the earth with my hoe and seed packets. As for my lawn, the work I had done to rid it of weeds fell apart. Sure I was the only lawn without the plague of dandelions, and my Bermuda grass strengthened in the areas where it was already growing, but that is small consolation when you compare it to the bevy of crab grass clumps now growing where fescue once thrived.

I have talked the whole thing over with my county extension agent. Bottom line, my planning, optimism, and hard work were brought to naught by our drought. Again, small consolation, but I am in the same boat with everyone in the country except for New Mexico and Iowa, who, for some reason in the russian roulette called weather, received an abundance of moisture this season.

The only saving grace is that what we experienced this year can prepare us for next year, or the next time we encounter similar circumstances.

In order to do that, we must understand our enemy; in this case drought.

So here are some quick lessons about drought and plant response:

Drought- drought is defined as a prolonged period of abnormally low rainfall particularly one that negatively affects growing or living conditions.  Sometimes drought symptoms occur because of a dry period, at other times you may be receiving normal rainfall, but are experiencing unusually hot temperatures.  So you are getting your traditional rainfall, just not enough to support the additional heat units. In this scenario, you may not be in a ‘drought’ climatologically but it is all the same to the plant. 

Drought is not death- Many people assume that if their lawn or plants turn brown that they are ‘dead’.  This is not necessarily, or even usually, the case.

Learn to speak ‘plant’ – Drought response occurs in stages and by understanding the stages we can determine how best to react to preserve our precious plants. Everything a plant does is telling us something, from “everything’s okay so I’m growing and producing like expected” to “I need some help, here.”  

Understanding your plants response to drought – The wilting and eventually browning that you see is actually a fascinating plant response aimed at preserving life in the plant. 

  • Curling – When the plant senses excess heat or a dry period, the first thing it does is to make itself as small as possible. This is the reason for the curling leaves on broadleaf grasses, cucumbers, corn, etc.  The more leaf surface that is exposed to the sun, the more the plant loses moisture to a process known as transpiration. Secondarily, the more sunlight the plant receives the more it generates a photosynthetic responses.  In the ‘mind’ of the plant it is ‘thinking’ “Look, I don’t have enough moisture to support the growth I have, why do I need to get any bigger or add any more leaves/fruit.”  So, the plant simply curls up to slow these two processes down. To our eye it looks as if the plant is dying, when in fact it is doing everything it can to survive and conserve moisture and energy. 

 

  • Wilting – Plants do need a certain amount of moisture to survive, and if it is not getting it from the sky or a water hose it will eventually start to cannibalize itself; that is, take the moisture and nutrients from it farthest extremities to make sure the fruit already formed and the core of the plant itself, survives.   When this happens, moisture and chlorophyll is withdrawn from the outer leaves first in the absence of liquid, the veins and capillaries collapse. Once these systems are no longer turgid, the leaves grow limp and wilting occurs. 

 

  • Browning –  In the absence of chlorophyll the green color leaves, leaving behind the yellow-brown coloration of the plants infrastructure. As a last defense, the plant closes down all of the pores from which it formerly ‘breathed’ and exchanged nutrients, moisture, and oxygen with the environment. As the pores close off, the plant becomes very tight, rigid, and brittle, this is combination is what causes the crunching sound as you walk across a drought-stricken lawn.

 

  • Death – If the drought is not relieved, the plant will continue to same process, working from the outside in until finally the last of the roots and the crown of the plant (the growing point just about soil level) also succumbs.  At this point, the plant is truly dead and there is no hope for revival.

 

  • A quick word about your soil – Similar reactions are also taking place within the soil:  the top few inches dry out first, a hard crust is formed to retain as much sub-soil moisture as possible, organic matter is forced deeper into the soil to survive and the soil cells, once plump with moisture and pliable are now hard, crusty, collapsed, and will eventually crack (depending on the volume of clay).  Those cracks are signs that the soil did all it could to hold out as long as possible, but eventually shrunk too much to hold its former shape and volume.

Fortunately, droughts do not happen all at once, neither does the plant respond immediately.   Because of that, with a basic understanding of what the plant is trying to accomplish, you can intervene until all but the very last stages and still salvage your lawns or gardens with some pretty basic steps.  In our next blog, we’ll discuss how to deal with drought and how to help your plants survive and resume production.

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Ask Monty’s for 8/23/2010 – Magnolias, Bulb Plants, Tomatoes

By Dennis on August 23, 2010

Ask Monty’s:

“I planted my iris, crocus and tulips when we first moved into our house almost ten years ago.  Although they have spread out quite nicely from their original site, they haven’t been producing the abundance of flowers they produced in the first five years or so.  Do they all need a good fertilizing routine – something I never really do?”

Ansel,                                                                                                                                     
Fredericksburg, Virginia

Ansel:

Fertilizer never hurts, especially if you’re not one who consistently does it.  However, I think what you really need to do to rejuvenate your old perennials is simply divide them.  Once you’ve dug them up, divided them and moved them, amend the old site with organic matter to replenish the oil.  You should see your plants revival in the spring once the have room to stretch out again.

Ask Monty’s:

“My pink Magnolia tree is in trouble!  I planted it in the spring and now the leaves are turning yellow and brown and dropping off.  I know it is late summer, but isn’t it a little early for the tree to start losing its leaves?”

Cassandra
Absecon, New Jersey

Cassandra:

Magnolias like moist well drained soil.  The symptoms you are describing indicates droughty and waterlogged soil.  Water the tree thoroughly when the soil at the base of the tree is crumbly and dry.  Then spread wood chips, shredded bark or mulch around the base of the tree to help keep the moisture in, the grass at bay and soil temperatures more even.  The best part about the mulch breaking down is it will nourish the soil to, so replenishing it should be routine.

Ask Monty’s:

“When you pick tomatoes is it better to put them in the refrigerator crisper or leave them out on the counter or a table?”

Ryan
Hopkins, Minnesota

Ryan:

Tomatoes that are not fully ripe will ripen best on a counter or table all on their own.  I’m not shy about picking tomatoes that aren’t quite ripe, so you shouldn’t be either.  From a taste standpoint refrigerated tomato flesh loses its softness and sweetness.  Do a concentrated taste test and decide for yourself.  I sometimes will put my very ripe tomatoes in the refrigerator if I’m not going to get to canning right away, but I even try to stay away from that if I possibly can.

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Ask Monty’s for 8/9/10: Raised Beds, Hostas, and Dragonflies

By Dennis on August 9, 2010

Ask Monty’s:

We put a small pond in our backyard this summer, along with quite a bit of appropriate landscaping plants and flowers around it.  It turned out nice and it is attracting a lot of wildlife to it.  I’ve noticed a lot of dragonflies particularly, something I’ve never really thought much about or thought would find the pond so attractive.  I don’t know much about them but I want to make sure they aren’t a type of bug that is going to cause me any trouble or damage to the plants.  Are they good guys or bad guys?”

 Sandra and Steve,                                                                                                                                                                         Ava, Missouri

 Sandra & Steve,

It’s all good!  Ponds and lakes do attract dragonflies and damselflies and you are the proud recipients! They have excellent eyesight and their aerial agility allows them to capture and eat vast amounts of insects that are smaller than themselves.  So they’re very interested in the uninvited “guests” that frequent your new environment like moths, beetles, mosquitoes, aquatic larvae and nymphs.  And with the food supply being so plentiful, they will court and lay their eggs here too.  They do need some vegetation to feed on so if you have planted such things as bulrush, cattail or water lilies you will encourage them to stay.  They also like blue flag iris, cardinal flower, red-twig dogwood and summersweet.  If you have to use any kind of insecticide, be conscious of the good insects and wildlife that may be living there and try to stay as organic as you can.

Ask Monty’s:

“I have two rather large raised garden beds that seem like they dry out very quickly.  I love the fact that I don’t have to bend so far over to maintain the garden, but it seems like I’m always watering it.  Why would these beds dry out so quickly?”

Marty,                                                                                                                                                                                           Seattle, Washington

Marty:

If you’re watering daily you may not be watering long enough or deeply enough. When you water make sure you’re soaking the soil at least five to six inches below ground level.  Another thing to look at is your soil content.  Having a lot of sand in your soil would contribute to why your soil is drying out so fast.  If that is the case the more organic matter, like peat moss and broken down compost, you can incorporate into the soil, the better.  It will help provide nutrients to the soil and help hold moisture.  Regardless of what kind of soil you have, mulch is a must for you as it will help insulate the soil and keep it moist.  Then once the growing season is over you just till it all into the soil for added nutrients as it breaks down over the winter.  Grass clippings and shredded leaves are great for this.

Ask Monty’s:

“I have staggered my green and variegated hostas throughout areas of my yard for creating some color and diversity.  The green hostas come up and do great every year, but my variegated hostas are always smaller and less vibrant.  Why do they look so shabby compared to the green ones when they’re in the same soil getting the same conditions?”

Pat and Lynne,                                                                                                                                                                    Leadmine, Wisconsin

Pat and Lynne,

 Green leafed plants take in more sun which they need to make chlorophyll, which feeds the plant.  Variegated-leafed plants just can’t produce enough food energy as a green leafed plant.  As a result, they can’t keep up with their green leafed neighbor.  But you do have the diversity you were looking for, so despair.

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Monty’s Rose Care Calendar for August

By Dennis on August 2, 2010

Below are rose care tips from Monty’s namesake and the creator of Monty’s Original Formula, Monty Justice, for the month of June. These tips are based on growth zone 6 and you should adjust the timing for your specific region and conditions.

Continue maintenance program.  After mid-August cut back stems with spent blooms only a few inches because there will not be sufficient time for repeat blooms if you cut back to a thick stem as was suggested in July.  There will not be sufficient time for cooler fall temperatures to repeat blooms when cut back to stems larger than a pencil.

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Ask Monty’s for 8/2/2010 – Containers, Planters, and Tomatoes

By Dennis on August 2, 2010

Ask Monty’s:

“I have two flower boxes that face to the north that never seems to be able to have a plant survive in them.  I’ve tried impatiens, marigolds, coleus, petunias, but nothing survives.  What could be the problem?”

Gilda

Linton, Indiana

 

Gilda:

Let’s start from the beginning.  As part of my own personal spring prelude to planting, I clean and sterilize my planters every year, so I would suggest we start here. It’s just a good practice all the way around.  I dip my planters in a mild bleach solution and rinse them well before I put soil and plants back in them.  This is one way to just simply get off to a good start.  Bear in mind also that potting mix, by definition, is sterile which means that it will have no organic matter to speak of, so even mixing in a little bit of top-soil and sand (1:1:1 ratio) can help.  Adding Monty’s Liquid Carbon (4 ounces per gallon of water, applied to the soil until moist, not saturated), once the sand and soil are there can help the organic matter flourish.

You may be putting too many plants in one planter, so overcrowding could be the problem.  If these are north facing planters you may be putting plants in them that prefer sun, such as the marigolds, coleus and petunias you mentioned.  Your impatiens should be fine, as well as begonias, asparagus ferns and pansies.  You may even want to try a few herbs in these boxes for something a little different and useful in the kitchen, such as mint, pineapple sage, lavender, chamomile and even basil.  There are different variations of herbs that will thrive in shaded areas, so read the labels carefully before you buy these particular plants or seeds.

Ask Monty’s:

“My yard is too small to consider an actual garden, so I’d like to do some container gardening next year.  What vegetables thrives the best in containers?”

Dorinda,

Savanna, Illinois

Dorinda:

Carrots, lettuce, onions and radishes will do well for you, and tomatoes and peppers for sure.  With some staking or trellis implementation, cucumbers, squash, pole beans and eggplant will do terrific as well. Broccoli and kale are also attractive container plants too.

Don’t forget, also, that square foot gardening is a great option for those with limited space.  You can get more information about square foot gardening on this site, from your local county extension office, or by conducting a web search.  Square foot gardening is a technique that took root (pardon the pun) in third-world countries where space and water were both concerns.  It requires a much smaller footprint, makes a smaller impact on the environment, makes the most of available resources, is easier to tend, and still produces excellent results if managed well.

Ask Monty’s:

“I put my tomato plants in very early this year hoping to get a jump on their production as they are my favorite vegetable and they seem to take so long to grow.  However, my plants are not doing any better than any of my neighbors who were probably three weeks behind me in planting. As a matter of fact, mine even seemed like they stopped growing.  Any insight on why I’m not harvesting early this year?”

Shay,

Springhill, Louisiana

 Shay:

I know it’s hard to be patient when it comes to some of our favorite vegetables and the thoughts of biting into the first harvest.  Spring weather can be a real fooler to the anxious gardener with the warm sun breaking through, but the bottom line is that if the soil is still cool when you put your plants in it will actually slow plant growth.  The soil must be warm for best results when it comes to gardening, so waiting the extra few weeks to plant will help your plants get off to a better start. You might want to consider cold frames next year if you want to put your plants in early and help warm the plant and the soil around them. You should have better results then.

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Ask Monty’s for July 24, 2010: Cannas, Clematis, and Salting Asparagus

By Dennis on July 27, 2010

Ask Monty’s:

 “My cannas leaves seem to be having a problem opening and I’ve noticed that some of them have a rather sticky kind of stringy substance across them.  Not all the leaves are this way as some of the plants in other parts of my yard are looking very good, while others are not.  What could be causing this?”

Don and June

Buckhannon, West Virginia

Don and June:

The leaf roller is about the only thing that bothers cannas.  It’s actually a caterpillar that comes from the skipper moth and prefers to lay her eggs inside young cannas leaves, sewing them shut with that “stringy substance” to protect their larvae.  Once they hatch they will then start feeding on the actual cannas leaves.  You’ll want to gently unfold those young leaves where you can see they are being hindered and you’ll find the pests inside. When I can, I flip them the pests off into the yard where a bird can pick them up for a snack, but if you have a lot of cannas you’ll want to find an insecticide specifically for worm or caterpillars eradication.  If you have leaves that are heavily damaged, remove them and throw in the garbage, not in your compost pile. 

Another note:  After the frost completely kills the plants, remove all the foliage and bag and dispose of them separately so you don’t risk the chance of them over wintering and affecting next year’s plants.  This is particularly important in southern zones where cannas are perennials, as opposed to annuals in the northern climates.

Ask Monty’s:

“Every year I am amazed that my clematis comes up. They’re never spectacular, but they do put forth the effort to flower.  I know they like their “heads in the sun and their feet in the shade” and I have them planted appropriately so.  My problem is that this summer – mid July – the leaves are already starting to turn brown.  Isn’t it a little early for that?

Gayle

Brilliion, Wisconsin

Gayle:

Browning of the leaves is pretty normal particularly after the heat of the summer and once the plant is done blooming. Not too nice to look at, but you can safely prune away the dead leaves and continue to keep the plant well watered and well mulched to keep in the moisture.  If the plants are just beginning to brown, and you are set on reviving them, try applying Monty’s Liquid Carbon to the soil to improve moisture flow into the root zone and to reduce compaction which will allow the roots to spread out and access more moisture and nutrients.  Also start a foliar program with Monty’s 2-15-15. 

If you follow the advice here on our blog you may be wondering why I am recommending the 2-15-15 formula during a ‘growth time’ in the plant’s development cycle.  The reason is your plants are showing signs of stress from heat and drought.  The last thing we want to do is to encourage MORE top-growth when the plant can’t support what it has now.  So by applying the 2-15-15 formula you are signaling the plant to put its energy into developing roots; kinda babying it until it recovers. The plant is also about done for the season, so let’s help it store energy to get through the winter ahead, a high dose of nitrogen right now could keep it from entering dormancy normally and expose the plant to more winter-kill.

If the brown leaves or wilt extends to the actual growing tip and the vine itself becomes brittle or turns almost black, the vine is probably dead as well.  Prune the vine down to the closest living branch area so all the dead material is done away with. Again, if you keep the plant well watered and fed you may continue to see new growth as the summer progresses.

Ask Monty’s:

“I have heard that adding salt to your asparagus beds is supposed to help them.  I have a beautiful wild asparagus bed and would sure like to maintain it as best as I can.  Is there any truth to the salt advice?  Is it just table salt?”

Roland

Crossgate, Kentucky

Roland:

Some people will add sodium chloride rock salt (NaCI) to their asparagus beds after they are at least a year old.  It sounds like your wild bed is already well established – so you can do this.  Apply about two and half pounds per 100 feet either before the spears actually appear in the spring or around July 4 when you’ve already pretty well harvested your crop.  The salt prevents crown and root rot diseases caused by fusarium fungus and actual improves the plants overall growth.  Do not use iodized salt (your common table salt) or rock salt made of calcium chloride (CaCI).  Pickling salt is fine too.

If the thought of adding salt to your plants just sounds to chancey, you may consider using Monty’s Liquid Carbon in the spring and fall. Crown rot and fusarium are what we like to call ‘wet feet’ diseases.  That is, they tend to move in when the roots of the plants are kept excessively moist, either from a wet spring or from over watering. In Kentucky, most gardeners deal with fairly heavy clay soils, so the moisture you receive tends to hang around.  By applying Monty’s Liquid Carbon, you can change the structure of these soils so that they allow the moisture to move more freely through the soil profile which results in better drainage.  Once your drainage situation is under control you will likely see a marked decrease in many of these ‘wet feet’ diseases.

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