One of the Worst Gardening Chores Made Easy

Most people, when you ask them why they don’t garden; or if they do garden if you ask what they hate about it will tell you weeding.  I am no different.  I hate weeding, that is one of the reasons i con my kids into helping me do it.  Well, my plan backfired on me.  My oldest child, my son, is now working a ‘real job’ and is graduating this spring.  So, I was faced with a thirty percent reduction in my work-force.

I happened to see a commercial on TV for a Mantis Tiller.  Now, with a background in media, I am naturally skeptical of ads; especially for over-hyped tv products. But, I was desperate for some other option other than chemicals or spending 1-2 hours a day out in my veg garden weeding. I finally gave in, if nothing else, to help me keep the morning glories at bay until my veg crops can get big enough to out-compete them.

This is not an endorsement of their product.  I do not sell them, Monty’s does not sell them nor are we suggesting you should buy one.  However, since I did purchase one  and since this blog is all about gardening, I thought I would share my experience.

I purchased the model that came pre-assembled.  All I had to do was pull it out of the box tighten the handles, fill it with a fuel/oil mix and go.  My garden is too small for this size tiller but I believe it will still come in handy for weeding/cultivating. I have not planted my garden yet because it is still a bit cold and way too wet so I decided to experiment with the new tiller in these flower beds. On this day I would be using it for two purposes 1) to renovate two flower beds 2) to edge my yard with the optional edger attachment.

The two flower beds were suffering from years of relative neglect and from encroaching Bermuda grass.  I love Bermuda grass.  It is hardy, it chokes out other weeds and looks good once it is warm enough to green up.  However, it has one problem.  It grows from rhizomes and refuses to stay where you want it.  It will invade everywhere and can be a real nuisance in flower beds.

You can see for yourself the job the tiller did on the front flower bed…total time, about 10 minutes.  The bed is a mixture of compost I have laid on top since last summer and native, moderately heavy clay soil.

After using the Mantis in this limited setting, these are my thoughts.

Starting – I have a gas weed trimmer and this is easier to crank than it.  Though, I recommend the quick-start option. If you let the tiller set and cool for even five minutes, you will have to re-prime it and use the choke to get it started again.  Otherwise it starts quickly.

Ease of use – Very easy, and very light.  It has a black handle by the engine and I was easily able to carry it where ever I needed it, one handed. (there is another grip if you want to use both hands. The speed controls are located on the right handgrip and easy to operate with your thumb and index finger. The thumb-controlled safety switch guarentees that you will no accidentally engage the tines.

Effectiveness – Very effective.  It chewed through everything:  Small roots, Bermuda grass rhizomes, thatch and compacted soil.  The trick is to keep it moving in a back and forth motion.  If you want to go deep, it will easily go down to about 7-10 inches.  The only drawback is that it does tend to pile up dirt behind it so you need to keep it moving.  This little tiller made the job of getting rid of the Bermuda grass and working my compost into the clay soil a snap.  I am looking forward to seeing what it does on morning glories in the veg garden this summer.

If you do have Bermuda grass, the rhizomes do tend to get wrapped around the tine axle. I had to clean mine off by disassembling the tines between flower beds.  However, that said, the cleaning process only required removing two cotter pins and took all of about 3 minutes.

As an edger – Okay, so maybe it was too much to hope for.  Once you start asking any product to do something other than that which it was originally designed, you run into some problems.  First, the optional edger attachment is easy to put on (see removing tines in the paragraph above).  It did cut through the soil and grass fairly easily and did establish a decent, if not perfect, edge.  In fact, it probably put a more consistent edge on my lawn than my weed trimmer does.    The biggest problems were in design.  It does not have a guide or a guard so it is hard to keep it next to the driveway/sidewalk without occasionally hitting the pavement.  I can see where this could lead to chipping and scarring the edge of the concrete, given time, and for some (me) that is unacceptable.  So If I were to give it a grade as an edger, I would say B-.

All in all, it is light, and it is effective.  It is a purchase that I am glad I made.  Though I would not count on it for heavy tilling or tilling extremely large areas (My garden plot is 150′ x 75).  I think it might be able to do it, but at only 9 inches wide, it would take forever.

Ask Monty’s for 8/30/2010 Rain Barrels, Tomatoes, and Herbs

Ask Monty’s:

“I want to put in some rain barrels at the bottom of my downspouts for all the right reasons.  I was wondering if it makes a difference as to what kind of material the barrels are made of.”

Lowell,
Clifton, Colorado

Lowell:

Welcome to one of the most rewarding and easiest forms of water conservation!  Your plants and garden are going to love your mineral rich rainwater, while slashing your water consumption by up to 40% depending on how much you use it.  Plastic or wood rain barrels are fine and are sold commercially.  The normally come in 25 to 100 gallon options.

Just something to keep in mind though as a note of caution, rain barrels that collect water from copper roofs or from roofs where wood shingles or shakes have been treated with chromated copper arsenate to prevent moss or algae growth should not be used on editable plants.  If you have treated your roof with any chemicals at all you won’t want to use that water either.

Two other notes on rain water collection barrels:

In your neck of the woods especially, you’ll want to empty your rain barrel when the weather starts to freeze over the winter.  If you don’t have a protected indoor area to store it, just turn it upside down and secure it to prevent animals from making a winter home in it or getting water accumulation in it which can freeze, expand, and potentially crack the barrel, especially one that is made of plastic.

Finally, make sure you keep a mesh screen over the top and that you clean it frequently.  The mess can collect debris which will interfere with collection and provide a place for mold and mildew to form.  However, without one all of those items will end up in your barrel and can foul your water.  Additionally, mosquitoes look for ponded, still water to lay their eggs.  An open rain barrel would make an ideal breeding ground for them.  Not only will that make time in your yard less pleasant, across the south this year there has been another outbreak of west nile virus. By eliminating standing water form your property you can greatly reduce mosquito populations for you and your neighbors.

If you are having trouble finding a barrel in your area, may we suggest you talk to one of our friends in Louisville?  This is the link to Naturally Horton’s  for those in the Louisville Metro, its in The Highlands.

Ask Monty’s: 

“When is the best time to harvest herbs?”

Carol
Aitkin, Minnesota

Carol:

The best time to harvest herbs is right before the flowers open.  This is when their aroma and taste in their essential oils are at their peak like thyme, basil and mint.  The preferred time to pick them is also in the morning when they are at their freshest and the most potent.  Never pick herbs in wet or humid conditions. Finally, Monty’s 2-15-15 works well to keep the plants in the flower cycle and may help elevate brix levels, which in herbs will increase the aromatics and flavors as well as improve shelf life.

Also, don’t forget one of our favorite places to visit and to visit virtually is Beagle Ridge Herb Farm in Wytheville, VA.  They are a great source for information for all things herbs, natural gardening, and GARLIC!  check them out here.

Ask Monty’s:

“I’ve read that instead of pulling out spent tomato plants, you can simply cut them back and keep watering them to encourage new growth and fruit.  Is there any truth to this?”

Mike
Norwalk, Iowa

Mike:

Depending on your weather cooperation, this is true and new growth will develop, along with a respectable new harvest.  Make sure you pick tomatoes often, keeping the weight off the stems and branches so they don’t break or bend.  It’ll also give your other plants more room to produce freely.

Once you prune them, you will want ot help encourage new growth as well as help the plant deal with the stresses involved with pruning.  Monty’s 8-16-8 should help with that, then once your plants have regrown and have begun to set blooms again, switch to Monty’s 2-15-15 to enhance flower set and fruit production.

Anatomy of a Drought pt.1

The Optimism of Spring is quickly, cruelly crushed by the reality of Autumn.  — dpr    

 And with that quote, so begins my fall. All that I had hoped to accomplish this summer in my lawn and in my garden is now face to face with the reality of what happened this season.  My harvest has been acceptable, but just barely. I put up several quarts of cucumbers, I have tomatoes waiting in canning jars for some fall stews and pastas, my potatoes will wait in their earthen tombs until I get a hankering for them, but all in all the performance was lack luster. Sure, thanks to Monty’s my results were better than most in the area, but still not nearly what I had anticipated in those days of spring when I assaulted the earth with my hoe and seed packets. As for my lawn, the work I had done to rid it of weeds fell apart. Sure I was the only lawn without the plague of dandelions, and my Bermuda grass strengthened in the areas where it was already growing, but that is small consolation when you compare it to the bevy of crab grass clumps now growing where fescue once thrived.

I have talked the whole thing over with my county extension agent. Bottom line, my planning, optimism, and hard work were brought to naught by our drought. Again, small consolation, but I am in the same boat with everyone in the country except for New Mexico and Iowa, who, for some reason in the russian roulette called weather, received an abundance of moisture this season.

The only saving grace is that what we experienced this year can prepare us for next year, or the next time we encounter similar circumstances.

In order to do that, we must understand our enemy; in this case drought.

So here are some quick lessons about drought and plant response:

Drought- drought is defined as a prolonged period of abnormally low rainfall particularly one that negatively affects growing or living conditions.  Sometimes drought symptoms occur because of a dry period, at other times you may be receiving normal rainfall, but are experiencing unusually hot temperatures.  So you are getting your traditional rainfall, just not enough to support the additional heat units. In this scenario, you may not be in a ‘drought’ climatologically but it is all the same to the plant. 

Drought is not death- Many people assume that if their lawn or plants turn brown that they are ‘dead’.  This is not necessarily, or even usually, the case.

Learn to speak ‘plant’ – Drought response occurs in stages and by understanding the stages we can determine how best to react to preserve our precious plants. Everything a plant does is telling us something, from “everything’s okay so I’m growing and producing like expected” to “I need some help, here.”  

Understanding your plants response to drought – The wilting and eventually browning that you see is actually a fascinating plant response aimed at preserving life in the plant. 

  • Curling – When the plant senses excess heat or a dry period, the first thing it does is to make itself as small as possible. This is the reason for the curling leaves on broadleaf grasses, cucumbers, corn, etc.  The more leaf surface that is exposed to the sun, the more the plant loses moisture to a process known as transpiration. Secondarily, the more sunlight the plant receives the more it generates a photosynthetic responses.  In the ‘mind’ of the plant it is ‘thinking’ “Look, I don’t have enough moisture to support the growth I have, why do I need to get any bigger or add any more leaves/fruit.”  So, the plant simply curls up to slow these two processes down. To our eye it looks as if the plant is dying, when in fact it is doing everything it can to survive and conserve moisture and energy. 

 

  • Wilting – Plants do need a certain amount of moisture to survive, and if it is not getting it from the sky or a water hose it will eventually start to cannibalize itself; that is, take the moisture and nutrients from it farthest extremities to make sure the fruit already formed and the core of the plant itself, survives.   When this happens, moisture and chlorophyll is withdrawn from the outer leaves first in the absence of liquid, the veins and capillaries collapse. Once these systems are no longer turgid, the leaves grow limp and wilting occurs. 

 

  • Browning –  In the absence of chlorophyll the green color leaves, leaving behind the yellow-brown coloration of the plants infrastructure. As a last defense, the plant closes down all of the pores from which it formerly ‘breathed’ and exchanged nutrients, moisture, and oxygen with the environment. As the pores close off, the plant becomes very tight, rigid, and brittle, this is combination is what causes the crunching sound as you walk across a drought-stricken lawn.

 

  • Death – If the drought is not relieved, the plant will continue to same process, working from the outside in until finally the last of the roots and the crown of the plant (the growing point just about soil level) also succumbs.  At this point, the plant is truly dead and there is no hope for revival.

 

  • A quick word about your soil – Similar reactions are also taking place within the soil:  the top few inches dry out first, a hard crust is formed to retain as much sub-soil moisture as possible, organic matter is forced deeper into the soil to survive and the soil cells, once plump with moisture and pliable are now hard, crusty, collapsed, and will eventually crack (depending on the volume of clay).  Those cracks are signs that the soil did all it could to hold out as long as possible, but eventually shrunk too much to hold its former shape and volume.

Fortunately, droughts do not happen all at once, neither does the plant respond immediately.   Because of that, with a basic understanding of what the plant is trying to accomplish, you can intervene until all but the very last stages and still salvage your lawns or gardens with some pretty basic steps.  In our next blog, we’ll discuss how to deal with drought and how to help your plants survive and resume production.

Ask Monty’s for 8/23/2010 – Magnolias, Bulb Plants, Tomatoes

Ask Monty’s:

“I planted my iris, crocus and tulips when we first moved into our house almost ten years ago.  Although they have spread out quite nicely from their original site, they haven’t been producing the abundance of flowers they produced in the first five years or so.  Do they all need a good fertilizing routine – something I never really do?”

Ansel,                                                                                                                                     
Fredericksburg, Virginia

Ansel:

Fertilizer never hurts, especially if you’re not one who consistently does it.  However, I think what you really need to do to rejuvenate your old perennials is simply divide them.  Once you’ve dug them up, divided them and moved them, amend the old site with organic matter to replenish the oil.  You should see your plants revival in the spring once the have room to stretch out again.

Ask Monty’s:

“My pink Magnolia tree is in trouble!  I planted it in the spring and now the leaves are turning yellow and brown and dropping off.  I know it is late summer, but isn’t it a little early for the tree to start losing its leaves?”

Cassandra
Absecon, New Jersey

Cassandra:

Magnolias like moist well drained soil.  The symptoms you are describing indicates droughty and waterlogged soil.  Water the tree thoroughly when the soil at the base of the tree is crumbly and dry.  Then spread wood chips, shredded bark or mulch around the base of the tree to help keep the moisture in, the grass at bay and soil temperatures more even.  The best part about the mulch breaking down is it will nourish the soil to, so replenishing it should be routine.

Ask Monty’s:

“When you pick tomatoes is it better to put them in the refrigerator crisper or leave them out on the counter or a table?”

Ryan
Hopkins, Minnesota

Ryan:

Tomatoes that are not fully ripe will ripen best on a counter or table all on their own.  I’m not shy about picking tomatoes that aren’t quite ripe, so you shouldn’t be either.  From a taste standpoint refrigerated tomato flesh loses its softness and sweetness.  Do a concentrated taste test and decide for yourself.  I sometimes will put my very ripe tomatoes in the refrigerator if I’m not going to get to canning right away, but I even try to stay away from that if I possibly can.

Ask Monty’s for 8/9/10: Raised Beds, Hostas, and Dragonflies

Ask Monty’s:

We put a small pond in our backyard this summer, along with quite a bit of appropriate landscaping plants and flowers around it.  It turned out nice and it is attracting a lot of wildlife to it.  I’ve noticed a lot of dragonflies particularly, something I’ve never really thought much about or thought would find the pond so attractive.  I don’t know much about them but I want to make sure they aren’t a type of bug that is going to cause me any trouble or damage to the plants.  Are they good guys or bad guys?”

 Sandra and Steve,                                                                                                                                                                         Ava, Missouri

 Sandra & Steve,

It’s all good!  Ponds and lakes do attract dragonflies and damselflies and you are the proud recipients! They have excellent eyesight and their aerial agility allows them to capture and eat vast amounts of insects that are smaller than themselves.  So they’re very interested in the uninvited “guests” that frequent your new environment like moths, beetles, mosquitoes, aquatic larvae and nymphs.  And with the food supply being so plentiful, they will court and lay their eggs here too.  They do need some vegetation to feed on so if you have planted such things as bulrush, cattail or water lilies you will encourage them to stay.  They also like blue flag iris, cardinal flower, red-twig dogwood and summersweet.  If you have to use any kind of insecticide, be conscious of the good insects and wildlife that may be living there and try to stay as organic as you can.

Ask Monty’s:

“I have two rather large raised garden beds that seem like they dry out very quickly.  I love the fact that I don’t have to bend so far over to maintain the garden, but it seems like I’m always watering it.  Why would these beds dry out so quickly?”

Marty,                                                                                                                                                                                           Seattle, Washington

Marty:

If you’re watering daily you may not be watering long enough or deeply enough. When you water make sure you’re soaking the soil at least five to six inches below ground level.  Another thing to look at is your soil content.  Having a lot of sand in your soil would contribute to why your soil is drying out so fast.  If that is the case the more organic matter, like peat moss and broken down compost, you can incorporate into the soil, the better.  It will help provide nutrients to the soil and help hold moisture.  Regardless of what kind of soil you have, mulch is a must for you as it will help insulate the soil and keep it moist.  Then once the growing season is over you just till it all into the soil for added nutrients as it breaks down over the winter.  Grass clippings and shredded leaves are great for this.

Ask Monty’s:

“I have staggered my green and variegated hostas throughout areas of my yard for creating some color and diversity.  The green hostas come up and do great every year, but my variegated hostas are always smaller and less vibrant.  Why do they look so shabby compared to the green ones when they’re in the same soil getting the same conditions?”

Pat and Lynne,                                                                                                                                                                    Leadmine, Wisconsin

Pat and Lynne,

 Green leafed plants take in more sun which they need to make chlorophyll, which feeds the plant.  Variegated-leafed plants just can’t produce enough food energy as a green leafed plant.  As a result, they can’t keep up with their green leafed neighbor.  But you do have the diversity you were looking for, so despair.

Ask Monty’s for July 12, 2010: White Clover, Tulip Transplants, and Splitting Tomatoes.

Ask Monty’s:

“Why do tomatoes split?  Mine are splitting at the seams!”

Radovich                                                                                                                                                                                       Pikeville, Tennessee

Radovich:

Moisture or heat stress is the culprit here – and some varieties are more susceptible than others. When the fruit becomes too plump too quickly they literally burst their skin.  This often happens after a heavy rainfall that occurs after a very dry spell.  Cracks that radiate down from the stem are caused by heat stress.  This occurs during period of hot, bright sunlight and temperatures above 90 degrees. Even moisture is the key, along with good drainage, and a thick layer of mulch to keep the soil cool and moist.  Remove ripe and nearly ripe fruit after a heavy rainfall as a proactive approach to letting them ripen further and split.  Better that than if you let a split tomato go unchecked and be invaded by insects or slugs which can create more problems for your plants.

Ask Monty’s:

“I separated a hug tulip bed last fall from a neighbor and replanted the bulbs in several new areas throughout my landscape.  This spring they feebly came up with very few having more than one leaf and what ones did flower were not spectacular by any means.  Was my transplanting efforts worthless?”

Cindy                                                                                                                                                                                                  Fowler, Indiana

Cindy:

Hang in here.  Your transplants are still “moving in.”  I hope you let what stems and flower there were yellow and die off undisturbed as they store the carbohydrates back into the bulbs as part of their regeneration process.  The bulbs just simply need to get a little larger and a little more situated in their new home before they exhibit the flower power you’re used to.  This could take a year or two, so like I said, hang in there!

Ask Monty’s:

“Is clover damaging to your lawn?  My lawn is experiencing a little more than usual and my husband wants to get rid of it.”

Madison                                                                                                                                                                                        Dubuque, Iowa

Madison:

Some people consider clover a weed, a bad rap it got in the late 1950’s when broadleaf herbicides killed the clover, along with more harmful weeds. The eradication of lawn clover then gave way to a lawn care trend of cloverless yards that homeowners found more desirable.  The advantages of clover in your lawn actually outweighs the disadvantages such as:

  • Cover is draught-tolerant staying green virtually from spring to the first frost.
  • Clover is a built in nitrogen producing fertilizer creating its own nitrogen and fertilizes nearby plants and grass as well.
  • Clover out competes most other weeds and reduces the need for weeding or herbicide use.
  • Clover tolerates poor soil conditions, growing particularly well in poor quality subsoil commonly found around the foundation of new homes.
  • Clover is immune to “dog patches” where female dogs urine discolors lawn grasses, staying green and lush despite the abuse.
  • Clover is inexpensive at about $4 per 4,000 square feet or by just letting it grow and spread.

You cna learn more about the plant, and ways to get rid of it, if htat remains your choice, here.

Ask Monty’s for 6/22/10

Question:

“My caladiums are beautiful this year and I’d like to propagate more to put around other parts of the garden. How do I do this as I know they are tuber-rooted?”

Heather,

Buckhorn, Kentucky  

Answer:

Propagation is done by dividing the tubers and this is usually done after their dormant winter period in the spring just before you plant them.  Cut the tubers into pieces with at least two buds, or “eyes,” per piece.  Plant them only about an inch deep and make sure you water them frequently to get them started. When you transplant them, you can also make a solution of one ounce of Monty’s 4-15-12 in one gallon of water; let the tubers soak while you are preparing their new home.  This will help provide them them with some added nutrients for germination and eaarly vigor. (Once they are up, add one ounce of Monty’s 8-16-8 per gallon of water applied to keep them vibrant and growing.) They like their soil temperatures warm, so don’t expect results until the spring weather warms the soil adequately.

Question:

“When shopping for planters I’ve noticed that many do not have drainage holes in the bottom. I thought you always had to have drainage holes to make sure the plant’s roots won’t rot. Which is the most preferred?”

Jordan, Bonanza, Oregon

Answer:

Planters with or without holes in the bottom for drainage really depends upon what you’re going to plant in them, your own personal watering habits and where the plant is going to live.  Houseplants usually get pots with drainage holes in them simply because they do not have to brave the dry elements of the outside environments such as wind and sun that dries plants out quickly.  Pots without holes in them can also be layered on the bottom with small gravel and sand which will serve the same drainage purpose.  I almost prefer this to the holes in the bottom of the planter, particularly for my houseplants, so I don’t have to worry about water seeping out of the bottom and onto my furniture.  Another practice I’ve adopted for my outside plants is that I use planters with solid bottoms and line the entire pot with a garbage bag to keep the plant’s moisture in longer.  This way they don’t dry out so fast. It seems like during the summer you can’t over water an outside plant.  So basically, by experimenting with both kinds of planters you’ll develop your own preference as well.

Question:

“I have small mushrooms growing all over my lawn, is this normal? Will it harm my lawn? We’ve had a lot of high temperatures and more than average rainfall in our area.  Would this have contributed to all these mushrooms sprouting up?”

Murph, Davenport, Iowa

Answer:

No doubt about it, mushrooms like damp, humid conditions and it sounds like you have had the perfect environment for growing them.  Once the sunlight hits them for a few days they should dry up and dissipate. Otherwise, just rake them out.  They’re not damaging to your lawn or other plants. Myself, I like to get rid of them as soon as possible because I had a dog that used to like to eat them and I’m never sure which are poisonous and which are not.  Mushrooms, as you know, are fungus in the ground which is breaking down dead organic matter and sprouting because of this decomposing.  In some parts of the country – such as Georgia – where the soil is clay and acidic, you will see a prevalent amount of mushroom growth.  Lime is recommended to add to the soil, which neutralizes it and helps prevent mushrooms from growing. If the musrooms are really a problem for you, you might also consider using some Monty’s Liquid Carbon it will help break down some of the organic matter in your lawn rapidly as well as help to balance the environment in your soil and allow for improved drainage.  One application in the spring and/or one in the fall should be sufficient to help improve most lawns.

Summertime and the Living is HOT!

Right now  we are experiencing one of those hot dry spells for which the south is famous!  The heat is in the 90’s and the humidity is in the 60-85% range leaving us with heat indices over 100.  Right now, I believe my heat index is 108.

It is not only making me miserable, my plants are showing the effects, too.  So, this week I thought I would share some tips on gardening in this climate.

1. It all starts in the spring.  Choose native varieties of plants that are already conditioned for your climate.  Trying to grow cool season plants in near tropical conditions will never end well.  Work with nature, not against it.  If you give in to a particular flower or vegetable just because it looks good in the magazine, you may coax it into surviving, but it will take you far more effort and water than you may have anticipated.

2. It all starts in the spring, part two.  Gardeners are always tempted to water heavily.  The rule of thumb is 1 inch of water per week.  However, once your plants are established, let the soil dry out a few times in between waterings in the cool of the spring.  This will encourage the roots to reach down deeper.  If you don’t do this and you are always giving the plants abundant moisture, the root systems will be shallow and the plants will be far more susceptible to drought stress when the upper two inches of soil dry out.

3. Mulch.  Applying mulch to your garden will do two things, it will help keeps weeds from out-competing your plants for needed moisture.  Secondly, it will help to keep the moisture that is present from evaporating as quickly.  Simply apply the mulch to within  four inches of the base of the plant.  In vegetable gardens, apply the mulch in between rows.

I learned the hard way this season not to mulch all the way up to the plant stem.  My county agent informed me that doing this keeps the soil too moist and helps it serve host to a wide variety of bacteria and fungal problems.  Of my 44 tomato plants I lost 16 due to soil borne pathogens resulting from my soil being too wet, too close to the stem.

4. When you do water, water deeply.  Most plants need approximately 1 inch of water per week.  If you don’t know how much that is,  simply scatter some empty tuna cans around your gardens and begin watering.  When the cans are full, you have watered approximately 1 inch.

5.  All plants are not created equally.  In your flower beds, cactus and other succulents can easily be overwatered. They actually prefer it hot and a bit on the dry side.  In the garden, okra and peppers are the same, while tomatoes and melons are heavy feeders and require abundant moisture.  With this in mind, water your plants in blocks rather than all at once so that similar plants receive adequate moisture.

6. Water in the morning, when possible.  The temperatures and conditions are most favorable for watering either in the morning or at night when evaporation loss will be lowered (good for your plants, better for your budget).  However, if you water at night and the plants do not have time to dry out, you will create a great breeding ground for bacteria and fungus that will ultimately be harmful.

7. Use Monty’s foliar fertilizers. Monty’s formulas are low in salts and will not cause additional crops injury or burn, even during the hot summer months.  Plus, the additional nutrients can help your plants better deal with stresses related to heat and drought.

8. Finally, your plants are not the only things that need water.  Keep yourself hydrated while you are working in the sun. Drink at least 8 extra ounces for each hour you are working (and sorry, beer and sodas don’t count..they actually will work as diuretic and further compound the problem).

If you have any tips, leave us a comment.  We’d love to hear from you and to see pics of your gardening success. Post them below.

White Clover, White Clover Let the Nightmare Be Over

This summer I have watched as white clover has taken over lawns across my region.  It has been like a rapidly advancing army of white Lilliputians bent on landscape domination.  I even sprayed some this spring hoping to fight back.  I did have some early success, but the stuff came back with a vengeance.  So I did some homework on the plant and this is what I learned.

First, white clover is your lawns way of saying, “Help!”  White Clover is a legume and as with all legumes it is capable of pulling nitrogen from the air and ‘fixing’ it or attaching it to its root system.  This Nitrogen is then available for the plant to use, but some of it gets broken down and added back to the soil.  In nature, white clover and other Nitrogen fixating plants move in when there is a shortage.  It is part of the whole miracle and awe of nature and a way to keep things balanced. Nature is using the clover to provide needed Nitrogen.

That said, the best way to control clover long term is to do a soil test and make sure that your lawn has everything it needs.  A good fall application of 19-19-19 fertilizer will have time to break down and get fully assimilated in the fall and winter months and reduce your problems next year.  By applying in the fall, you can also help insure that the application of nitrogen will not burn your lawn, and that you have adequate moisture to help the nutrient break down.

In the short term, you can use a broadleaf herbicide like 2,4-D, dicamba, and MCPP/MCPA.  A few words about these products: they are a broadleaf herbicide and will kill or injure almost any broadleaf plant. The good news is that they are safe for most lawns, the bad news is they can wreak havoc on flowers, shrubs, and trees.  Spot treat rather than broadcast, keep your sprayer nozzle to more of a stream or drip and keep it as close to the ground as possible to prevent drift to plants you like. Use when you know temperatures will remain below 85 degrees as excessive heat will reduce effectiveness and could volatize the chemical (convert it from a liquid to a gas).  Once it is volatized not only will you be watching the money you paid float into the air, but it can resettle on nearby plants and cause damage without you ever knowing it happened until it is too late.  I have seen an entire commercial tomato farm taken out by volatized 2,4-D.  The farm next to it was a beef operation; the farm sprayed his pasture for weeds.  However, the product volatized, drifted, and settled on the tomatoes; within a week every plant the tomato grower had was dead. So be careful and read and follow label direction.

If you are using 2,4-D I also recommend using a new product from Monty’s called NanoBoost.  It is will increase the effectiveness of 2,4-D and glyphosate based herbicides by helping more of these products get into the weed.  Learn more here.

Here are some brief tips on controlling white clover:

  1. Do a soil test.  Check for pH levels and Nitrogen levels
  2. Apply needed nitrogen in the fall.
  3. Spot treat clover patches with 2,4-D or other herbicide. Follow all label directions
  4. Herbicide treatments will be most effective in the fall, though summer applications can be made if temperatures will be below 85 degrees.
  5. Apply herbicides and fertilizers when the lawn is well-watered and not stressed as they will take in more of the products.
  6. Fertilizer regularly and encourage a good stand of healthy grasses.  Clover tends to move in to fill voids.

Editor’s Note:  I know that there is a growing group of proponents of ‘clover lawns’ who are anti-herbicides and pro-clover.  The above will be an anathema to them.  I believe in working with native grasses as much as possible which is why I am letting the bermuda take over what once was a fescue lawn. But I just personally can’t abide the clover invasion.

More Uses for Grass Clippings

Short entry today.  Storms are moving in this evening and I have a lot of work to do.  Weather man says we are expecting 4+ inches of rain.  We’ll see.

Anyway, mowing season is in full swing and I have found another use for grass clippings.  My son and I are using them to create paths so we can walk through our garden, even after a rain, without bogging down in this god-forsaken E. Tennessee clay.  Additionally we are using it around the tomatoes to help suppress weeds.

One word of caution that I learned the hard way last season.  DO NOT try this if you have a Bermuda grass lawn and your grass has formed seed heads.  The seeds will germinate and you will spend the rest of the summer fighting to keep Bermuda grass out of your garden.

The benefit of using the grass clippings like this is that it does give us the paths and the weed barriers that I am looking for with the added benefits that I can till it in in the fall to add organic structure into the soil, plus unlike using bark mulch, which is expensive and semi-permanent, I can reconfigure the layout of my garden each season so that I can easily rotate my crops to keep disease and insects in check.

Happy gardening.  I’m back to work.