How to Prune Roses, Correctly

By Dennis on December 7, 2010

In out last blog, in response to a question raised by a local gardener, we discussed some of the things that are typically done incorrectly when pruning roses. I have always been frustrated by those who tell me everything I am doing incorrectly, but then fail to tell me the right thing to do instead. So to that end, we went to the expert: Monty Justice. With our video camera in hand we asked him to show us what he does in his garden each fall to achieve and maintain the championship quality roses he produces from his garden every year.

In this video Monty discusses “Pre-Pruning.”  Pre-Pruning helps to give the plant its basic shape for next season, as well as working preventatively to reduce insect and disease pressure next season.

As always, feel free to get in touch with us with any questions you may have regarding Monty’s products, or with your own lawn and garden questions.

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Pruning Roses Too Early May Cause Winter-Kill

By Dennis on November 30, 2010

Recently a member of our staff was talking to a friend who was busily preparing their roses for winter by pruning them back.  He returned to the office somewhat concerned that it might be too early. Chances are, his concerns were merited…mainly due to the protracted summer/fall season we have seen in the Ohio Valley this year.  But it does bring up the question, when should you prune your roses back ans what harm might you do if you prune too early.  With that question in mind I sat down with the president of Monty’s Plant Food Company and talked with him about pruning roses.

First, let’s establish when roses should be pruned.  In growth zone 5, where Monty’s is headquartered you generally want to do that sometime after mid-September.  Though the calendar should be used as a guideline, not a hard date.  What you are looking for is to prune sometime after nighttime temperatures start falling into the upper 40-degree range-if not every night, at least occasionally.

Why wait until then?  When you prune a rose it signals the plant that damage has been done and it immediately starts trying to recover the lost limbs.  Remember plants are not trying to please us; they have only one goal–to reproduce themselves. That is the whole purpose of the flower.  So when the canes are pruned back the plant realizes it has fewer possibilities for producing roses (reproducing) next year and it works to remedy that.  If it is still warm outside to produce the GDUs (growing degree units) needed for growth it will produce more canes.  These canes are very young and very tender.  Read that as very susceptible to frost and freezes.

Mechanically, what happens when your canes freeze is this.  Remember field trips in school?  We were always told to bring a sack lunch and a soda pop with us.  At my house that usually meant my mom would take a can of Dr. Pepper, put it in the freezer for a while, then remove it and wrap it in aluminum foil so it would be cold for my lunch.  However, there were times we forgot the can in the freezer.  The next time we opened the freezer door there would be frozen droplet of Dr. Pepper everywhere.  Even though most things contract as they get colder, liquids actually expand. The expanding liquid inside the can stretched the can as far as it would allow, but eventually it would stress and burst.  This is the same thing that happens to these new canes on your roses.  Inside each cane are plant cells that have some ability to stretch and expand, but it is limited.  As the moisture freezes and expands, eventually the cells rupture; that cell is now dead.  If that happens to enough cells, that section of the plant will die.  In extreme cases, the skin on the newly formed cane itself will rupture and create a small fissure or crack in the skin.

So what damage does all of this cause?  Well, if just a few cell die, not much.  the plant is resilient and will likely overcome the mild damage. If enough cells die, though, it can kill the cane. If a crack is created in the skin, insects will see this as a weakness in the defenses of the plant.  Believe it or not, many insects vision see things in infrared.  Because of that, this injury shows up like a beacon to beetles and other opportunistic feeders from hundreds of feet away.  It’s like a glowing neon sign at a diner that says “OPEN!”  This opening not only serves as a dinner bell for insects it is also a perfect breeding ground for bacteria.  So, the light freeze damage in the fall, suddenly becomes a point of entry for disease, bacteria, fungus, or insects that may kill your plant completely next season.

Prune canes back to 1/4 inch above a three-leaf axil in late summer or early fall for best results.

Additionally, all of the energy spent producing these new canes that will invariably die is energy lost to the plant next spring.  It is best to wait until the nights are cool enough so that the energy expended on new growth can be  utilized in the spring when those canes will have opportunity to produce the rose you desire.

So how should you prune, and when?  Again, wait until nighttime temperatures are in the 40’s. Then prune back every cane to a three-leaf axil.  You should always use sharp shears and cut on a 45-degree angle about 1/4 inch above your selected axil. (See Diagram to the right).  Monty also tell me to moisten your finger and rub it in the dirt after you cut the cane, then rub the dirt into the cut on the plant.  This, he tells me, will cover up the wound and keep the insects from finding it as readily.

Keep checking this post regularly as we will soon have more conversations and videos from Monty himself to give you the rose-growing tips of a champion rosarian.  Additionally, we provide answers to your questions each week in our “Ask Monty’s” section so keep posting your questions to the blog or send us an e-mail.  And when you write, or e-mail, make sure to include pictures of your garden.  We always like to see what others are doing and learn about the successes they are having with Monty’s Plant Food.

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Ask Monty’s for 11/21/2010: Dogwoods, Loropetulum, and Winter Lighting for Orchids

By Dennis on November 22, 2010

Ask Monty’s:

“I planted small dogwoods a few years ago and although they get leaves, they never bloom.  I’m fertilizing, mulching and watering them religiously, but still no blooms again this year.  What do you suppose the problem is?”

Finley
Dartsmouth, Maine

Finely:

The problem from what I can determine from your maintenance program is that all the plant’s energy may be going to forming roots instead of flowers.  Between your fertilizer and mulch they may be getting too much nitrogen which promotes leaf growth and actually discourages flowering.  Unusually cold winters can also prevent flowering too by killing the buds, which is also a consideration in your region.

Before the ground freezes this winter, I would suggest an application of Monty’s Liquid Carbon to the soil around your tree.  Apply it from the base of the tree out to the edge of the drip line.  Will help open up the soil and improve nutrient exchange between the tree and the surrounding soil.  If it is too late this fall already, then do this at your first opportunity this next spring.  Secondly, Monty’s offers two products that make fertilization a ‘no brainer’ and since they are liquid, they are very easy to apply.  First, at first leaf, start applying Monty’s 2-15-15, this low N, high P & K formula will work with the natural cycle of your dogwoods to give them the nutrients they need for vigorous blooming.  Then, as the blooms start to fade a monthly application of Monty’s 8-16-8 will encourage aggressive growth and the formation of new branches.  This action combined with a good pruning program will help develop the size and shape of your tree for years of enjoyment.  Both of the fertility products will be best utilized by the plant if you apply them directly to the foliage of the tree using Monty’s 100:1 applicator tip or by applying with a hose-end applicator from your local garden center.  Finally, these are just brief tips; for a more exhaustive discussion refer to this pdf from www.mymontys.com.

Ask Monty’s:

“I have a border of loropetulum along my yard. When I put them in, they were purple leafed but now they have turned green. I just got two new replacements which were purple and realized how much mine had changed. Does that mean that my soil lacks something? Can you suggest how I can keep the leaves purple? Both bloom very nicely –  that beautiful bright pink bloom.”

Ann
Anderson, South Carolina

Ann:

Loropetulum do best in a partly shaded, partly sunny area in zones 8 to 9, so you’re in the right region for this plant. They also prefer sandy loam, a little clay perhaps for soil requirements and they do better in an acidic ph. However, while their water requirements are normal to moist, they do demand good drainage. Depending upon where you have these planted they may not be getting enough sun or too much sun and too much water. Try planting one in a completely different area of your yard that has exactly the opposite lighting conditions and see how it does.  Be mindful of its soil needs and monitor its water intake too. They like southern exposures if that helps at all.

Ask Monty’s:

“My wife is looking for lighting for the winter months for orchids (the common kind that we can purchase here) phalaenopsis. She is looking for artificial light and wants to be sure that it provides light without providing too much light.”

Randy
Lake Charles, Indiana

Randy:

There are two types of orchids which will grow well, year round, under artificial lights: phalaenopsis (known as the moth orchid) and paphiopedilums (known as the lady slippers).

There are other orchids which will bloom under windowsill and/or artificial light conditions, but these orchids require more light. The minimum set-up for the use of fluorescent bulbs is two 40 watt tubes. A practical set-up would alternate Gro-lux or Vita-Lite wide spectrum lights with cool white fluorescent tubes. The lights may be left on up to 16 hours a day. Because fluorescent light produces no heat, they should be within 12″ of the plants.

The optimum light for phalaenopsis is between 1000 to 1500 foot candles. Paphiopedilums, which require less light than most orchids, thrive at 800 to 1200 foot candles of light. I’d recommend buying an easy- to-use light meter to measure the amount of light, just for insurance purposes. If a mature, healthy phalaenopsis does not flower in its appropriate season, the reason is very likely due to lack of light, either in intensity or duration, so keep that in mind as you go.

Also remember, as with most plants, orchids need a ‘dormant’ period – a time when their reproductive and growth cycles shut down.  This allows the plant to store up energy for it’s next reproductive cycle.  What you see as a beautiful bloom, the plant sees as an opportunity to attract pollinators and increase its chances for propagation. Keeping that in mind, we know that it needs energy to make the best bloom possible because natural selection only allows the most successful of the species reproduce.  SO, as you let your plant go ‘dormant’ do not forget it still has nutritional needs, especially if it is planted in a sterile potting mix. Monty’s 2-15-15 will give it the P and K it needs for a more vibrant bloom cycle next go round.  So don’t stop feeding your plants, just change the formula and give them what they need.

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Monty’s Rose Care Calendar: October

By Dennis on October 4, 2010

Continue maintenance program until hard frost or freeze occurs.  Meteorologicallly speaking, a hard frost is defined as temperatures at 28 degrees Fahrenheit or colder for at least four consecutive hours.   Apply Monty’s Plant Food (2-15-15)  to the leaves of your roses with minimal amounts of water for the soil. ( Click here to order) This product thickens the cells of the plants, and helps them retain elasticity, which may protect the canes from winter damage.  The more you can do now to protect your canes through the winter and to increase the likelihood that they will begin spring growth with little if any winter damage, the more likely you are to begin the new season next spring with larger more vigorous plants with little if any pruning needed. 

This is also an ideal time to remediate your soil.  Monty’s Liquid Carbon, if applied to the soil of your garden’s now will have time to start working before winter.( click here to order) This is important because Monty’s Liquid Carbon works in concert with your microbial populations and those little microscopic miners go dormant in soil temperatures below 45 degrees Fahrenheit.  Additionally, the normal ‘heaving’ of the soil during the freeze/thaw cycle will allow Monty’s Liquid Carbon to penetrate deep into your soil profile.  Finally, any Liquid Carbon that you apply now will be there, ready to work, come early spring when often it is too muddy to get much accomplished.

For those of you who experienced the deep drought and extreme heat this summer that we did around our gardens this summer, be aware.  The drought most likely caused your soils to collapse as the moisture was evacuated by evaporation.  This means that you will likely have to deal with compaction this next season, even if compaction is not normally an issue for you.  Monty’s Liquid Carbon is a great help to gardeners fighting against compaction-related problems.

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Ask Monty’s for 9/30/10: Roses, Coneflowers and Organic Pest Control

By Dennis on September 30, 2010

Ask Monty’s:

“Do you know of any more natural ways to control garden pests?  I’m trying to stay as chemical free as possible, but some of my methods aren’t covering all the bases.”

Renee
Grey Eagle, Minnesota

Renee:

I applaud your approach and environmental dedication.  While chemicals can be quick, effective answers to warding off garden pests, sometimes some very easy proactive approaches can be just as effective.  Probably the number one garden routine to establish is taking that daily walk in the garden to look for any changes in plant leaves, stalks or flowers.  I’ve caught many “new developments” taking place in my garden on several occasions and warded off major damage with that daily check (Tomato worms can strip a plant in the blink of an eye – I swear!)  That said, it also might mean thinking like a pest or insect and searching for signs of where they hide under leaves.  My mother-in-law, who was a great fisherman, used to say, “If you want to catch fish, you have to think like a fish!”  Same advice applies.

Hand picking off pests such as snails and slugs and destroying affected leaves is important in staying ahead of the game.  Planting garlic, dill, fennel, carrots and parsley among your plants also encourages beneficial insects such as ladybugs to rid your garden of a variety of pests. 

If you’re planting annuals or garden vegetables, rotate where you plant them from year to year, as different plants require different nutrients.  Weeding is also very important so you control desirable habitat for those unwanted pests.  A couple of natural offenses for pests are insecticidal soap mixed with water or pureed cloves of garlic (2) to a pint of water and use as a spray.

Two last thoughts.  First, don’t assume that just because the insect are harming your plants that they are harming your garden.  that can be a tough pill to swallow.  However, think like nature thinks.  These insects prey on the weak plants first.  They are easier targets with less native resitance.  So destorying yoru plants may be doing you a favor in the long run.  The plants that they kill likely would not have produced much fruit and owuld have still taxed the resources like water and nutrients just like they were your best producers.  Additionally if you save seeds for next year from this season, the seeds you save, after the insect have moved through, are naturally resistant to that particular pest. Survival of the fittest can go a long way to giviing you years of improved gardening. Finally, along hte same lines, since we know that insect prey ont he weakest plants first, make sure you have as few ‘weak links’ as possible.  Water adequately and provide additional nutrients with Monty’s foliar applications. Personally, I treat my plants to an extra dose of Monty’s 8-16-8 or 2-15-15 (depending on the plants growth cycle) once a week.

Ask Monty’s:

“My coneflowers this year looked terrible.  They turned brown and looked wilted all the time.  I tried watering them regularly and even fertilized them and they still continued to look deformed and the flowers were sparse.  What happened?  I would rather have had them not come up at all, they were that unsightly.”

Coco
Clyde, Ohio

Coco:

Coneflowers thrive in hot, dry conditions so you may have over watered them in your efforts to revive them.  But when you mentioned the plant deformity and sparse looking flower heads I think your plants have succumbed to aster yellows which is a disease caused by phytoplasoma, a plant killing microorganism transmitted by aster leafhoppers which can often occur from over watering.  Aster yellows can create the bizarre symptoms you suggest, along with other plant deformities.  There’s no cure for aster yellows so my best advice is to dig them up and remove any and all affected plants from your garden and destroy them by burning them or bagging them for the trash. Don’t put them in your compost pile.

Ask Monty’s:

“What’s the difference between a Multiflora Rose and a Virginia Rose?  They look the same and their flowers look similar as well.”

Trudi
Stillwater, Oklahoma

Trudi:

The only thing they really have in common is the fact that they are both deciduous shrubs and thrive in similar zones.  You must have seen these plants either side by side in size or in a photo because these plants are completely different in nature.  Multiflora Roses can grow up to 15 feet tall and are extremely evasive, forming thickets in all kinds of habitat, choking out natural plants and becoming a farmer’s agricultural nightmare.  One plant alone can produce up to one million seeds each year!

The plant you really want is the fragrant Virginia Rose.  This fast growing shrub gets between four to six feet tall and makes for a good hedge or as an addition to a wildlife garden.  The rose hips provide food for wildlife, hosts the Mourning Cloak Caterpillar and even have pretty reddish canes in winter as an added attraction.

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Putting Your Best Petal Forward (pt 2): Grooming Roses for Rose Shows

By Dennis on September 9, 2010

Editor’s Note:  We have compiled several videos from noted rosarian and co-founder of Monty’s Plant Food Company, Monty Justice.  As a seasoned veteran, frequent winner, and judge of the Rose Show circuit, Justice is a sought-after consultant and speaker on all issues related to roses.  As such, we followed him to the Kentucky State Fair in the Fall of 2010 so he could teach us what judges are looking for, how to prep blooms for presentation, and in short, how to put your best bloom forward whether you are competing or just want to display your hard work in your home.  We hope you enjoy these segments and we look forward to hearing about your blue-ribbon successes.

Most roses are beautiful, but all roses are not show quality.  In this video, Monty’s Justice shows how to present roses with the ‘perfect’ round shape and the proper display of their petals.

Just like any competition, what separates the champions from the also-rans is attention to detail.  In this segment, Monty shows some of the tricks that winners use to get their blooms ready to face the judges.

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Putting Your Best Petal Forward (pt 1): What the Judges are Looking for

By Dennis on September 8, 2010

Editor’s Note:  We have compiled several videos from noted rosarian and co-founder of Monty’s Plant Food Company, Monty Justice.  As a seasoned veteran, frequent winner, and judge of the Rose Show circuit, Justice is a sought-after consultant and speaker on all issues related to roses.  As such, we followed him to the Kentucky State Fair in the Fall of 2010 so he could teach us what judges are looking for, how to prep blooms for presentation, and in short, how to put your best bloom forward whether you are competing or just want to display your hard work in your home.  We hope you enjoy these segments and we look forward to hearing about your blue-ribbon successes.

Monty talks with us about what Judges are looking for in a winning rose.

In this segment, Monty examines a good specimen of a garden rose and uses it as an example of what the judges will notice.

Monty stops by one exhibit to show a flaw that judges are quick to notice in any competition.

Perfection aside, at the end of the day, what most novices appreciate about a rose is the way they smell. This class is custom suited for the beginning rose grower and the rank-and-file hobbyist who just appreciates the simple aspects of fresh roses. Put away your magnifying class and stop and smell the roses awhile.

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Monty’s Rose Care Calendar for September

By Dennis on September 7, 2010

Below are rose care tips from Monty’s namesake and the creator of Monty’s Original Formula, Monty Justice, for the month of June. These tips are based on growth zone 6 and you should adjust the timing for your specific region and conditions.

September:   The hottest, most stressful days of summer are behind us, and if you have taken care of your roses all year, then you are getting ready for a beautiful display of new blooms.  I recommend using Monty’s 2-15-15 sprayed to the foliage of the plants to improve this flush of blooms and increase the vibrancy and their staying power.  However, one drawback to the cool nights and warm days is that the plants will not dry out as well as they do during the summer; this leads to mildew problems.  Spray purplish red growth at the top of the plants; treat for mildew as needed.  

When cutting blooms for your enjoyment you should have been cutting stems as long as desired since July. Be careful not to cut too much of the stem when you remove your roses for shows or for home enjoyment.  If you trim them back too far or if you prune too heavily there will not be enough sun or energy left to establish the base for new growth for next season.

Editor’s Note: September is also the time of year that many will be grooming their roses for exhibition.  Keep watching this blog for tips on what the judges are looking for and how to present your roses so they can put their best petal forward.

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Ask Monty’s for 8/30/2010 Rain Barrels, Tomatoes, and Herbs

By Dennis on August 30, 2010

Ask Monty’s:

“I want to put in some rain barrels at the bottom of my downspouts for all the right reasons.  I was wondering if it makes a difference as to what kind of material the barrels are made of.”

Lowell,
Clifton, Colorado

Lowell:

Welcome to one of the most rewarding and easiest forms of water conservation!  Your plants and garden are going to love your mineral rich rainwater, while slashing your water consumption by up to 40% depending on how much you use it.  Plastic or wood rain barrels are fine and are sold commercially.  The normally come in 25 to 100 gallon options.

Just something to keep in mind though as a note of caution, rain barrels that collect water from copper roofs or from roofs where wood shingles or shakes have been treated with chromated copper arsenate to prevent moss or algae growth should not be used on editable plants.  If you have treated your roof with any chemicals at all you won’t want to use that water either.

Two other notes on rain water collection barrels:

In your neck of the woods especially, you’ll want to empty your rain barrel when the weather starts to freeze over the winter.  If you don’t have a protected indoor area to store it, just turn it upside down and secure it to prevent animals from making a winter home in it or getting water accumulation in it which can freeze, expand, and potentially crack the barrel, especially one that is made of plastic.

Finally, make sure you keep a mesh screen over the top and that you clean it frequently.  The mess can collect debris which will interfere with collection and provide a place for mold and mildew to form.  However, without one all of those items will end up in your barrel and can foul your water.  Additionally, mosquitoes look for ponded, still water to lay their eggs.  An open rain barrel would make an ideal breeding ground for them.  Not only will that make time in your yard less pleasant, across the south this year there has been another outbreak of west nile virus. By eliminating standing water form your property you can greatly reduce mosquito populations for you and your neighbors.

If you are having trouble finding a barrel in your area, may we suggest you talk to one of our friends in Louisville?  This is the link to Naturally Horton’s  for those in the Louisville Metro, its in The Highlands.

Ask Monty’s: 

“When is the best time to harvest herbs?”

Carol
Aitkin, Minnesota

Carol:

The best time to harvest herbs is right before the flowers open.  This is when their aroma and taste in their essential oils are at their peak like thyme, basil and mint.  The preferred time to pick them is also in the morning when they are at their freshest and the most potent.  Never pick herbs in wet or humid conditions. Finally, Monty’s 2-15-15 works well to keep the plants in the flower cycle and may help elevate brix levels, which in herbs will increase the aromatics and flavors as well as improve shelf life.

Also, don’t forget one of our favorite places to visit and to visit virtually is Beagle Ridge Herb Farm in Wytheville, VA.  They are a great source for information for all things herbs, natural gardening, and GARLIC!  check them out here.

Ask Monty’s:

“I’ve read that instead of pulling out spent tomato plants, you can simply cut them back and keep watering them to encourage new growth and fruit.  Is there any truth to this?”

Mike
Norwalk, Iowa

Mike:

Depending on your weather cooperation, this is true and new growth will develop, along with a respectable new harvest.  Make sure you pick tomatoes often, keeping the weight off the stems and branches so they don’t break or bend.  It’ll also give your other plants more room to produce freely.

Once you prune them, you will want ot help encourage new growth as well as help the plant deal with the stresses involved with pruning.  Monty’s 8-16-8 should help with that, then once your plants have regrown and have begun to set blooms again, switch to Monty’s 2-15-15 to enhance flower set and fruit production.

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Ask Monty’s for 8/23/2010 – Magnolias, Bulb Plants, Tomatoes

By Dennis on August 23, 2010

Ask Monty’s:

“I planted my iris, crocus and tulips when we first moved into our house almost ten years ago.  Although they have spread out quite nicely from their original site, they haven’t been producing the abundance of flowers they produced in the first five years or so.  Do they all need a good fertilizing routine – something I never really do?”

Ansel,                                                                                                                                     
Fredericksburg, Virginia

Ansel:

Fertilizer never hurts, especially if you’re not one who consistently does it.  However, I think what you really need to do to rejuvenate your old perennials is simply divide them.  Once you’ve dug them up, divided them and moved them, amend the old site with organic matter to replenish the oil.  You should see your plants revival in the spring once the have room to stretch out again.

Ask Monty’s:

“My pink Magnolia tree is in trouble!  I planted it in the spring and now the leaves are turning yellow and brown and dropping off.  I know it is late summer, but isn’t it a little early for the tree to start losing its leaves?”

Cassandra
Absecon, New Jersey

Cassandra:

Magnolias like moist well drained soil.  The symptoms you are describing indicates droughty and waterlogged soil.  Water the tree thoroughly when the soil at the base of the tree is crumbly and dry.  Then spread wood chips, shredded bark or mulch around the base of the tree to help keep the moisture in, the grass at bay and soil temperatures more even.  The best part about the mulch breaking down is it will nourish the soil to, so replenishing it should be routine.

Ask Monty’s:

“When you pick tomatoes is it better to put them in the refrigerator crisper or leave them out on the counter or a table?”

Ryan
Hopkins, Minnesota

Ryan:

Tomatoes that are not fully ripe will ripen best on a counter or table all on their own.  I’m not shy about picking tomatoes that aren’t quite ripe, so you shouldn’t be either.  From a taste standpoint refrigerated tomato flesh loses its softness and sweetness.  Do a concentrated taste test and decide for yourself.  I sometimes will put my very ripe tomatoes in the refrigerator if I’m not going to get to canning right away, but I even try to stay away from that if I possibly can.

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