Ask Monty’s for July 24, 2010: Cannas, Clematis, and Salting Asparagus

By Dennis on July 27, 2010

Ask Monty’s:

 “My cannas leaves seem to be having a problem opening and I’ve noticed that some of them have a rather sticky kind of stringy substance across them.  Not all the leaves are this way as some of the plants in other parts of my yard are looking very good, while others are not.  What could be causing this?”

Don and June

Buckhannon, West Virginia

Don and June:

The leaf roller is about the only thing that bothers cannas.  It’s actually a caterpillar that comes from the skipper moth and prefers to lay her eggs inside young cannas leaves, sewing them shut with that “stringy substance” to protect their larvae.  Once they hatch they will then start feeding on the actual cannas leaves.  You’ll want to gently unfold those young leaves where you can see they are being hindered and you’ll find the pests inside. When I can, I flip them the pests off into the yard where a bird can pick them up for a snack, but if you have a lot of cannas you’ll want to find an insecticide specifically for worm or caterpillars eradication.  If you have leaves that are heavily damaged, remove them and throw in the garbage, not in your compost pile. 

Another note:  After the frost completely kills the plants, remove all the foliage and bag and dispose of them separately so you don’t risk the chance of them over wintering and affecting next year’s plants.  This is particularly important in southern zones where cannas are perennials, as opposed to annuals in the northern climates.

Ask Monty’s:

“Every year I am amazed that my clematis comes up. They’re never spectacular, but they do put forth the effort to flower.  I know they like their “heads in the sun and their feet in the shade” and I have them planted appropriately so.  My problem is that this summer – mid July – the leaves are already starting to turn brown.  Isn’t it a little early for that?

Gayle

Brilliion, Wisconsin

Gayle:

Browning of the leaves is pretty normal particularly after the heat of the summer and once the plant is done blooming. Not too nice to look at, but you can safely prune away the dead leaves and continue to keep the plant well watered and well mulched to keep in the moisture.  If the plants are just beginning to brown, and you are set on reviving them, try applying Monty’s Liquid Carbon to the soil to improve moisture flow into the root zone and to reduce compaction which will allow the roots to spread out and access more moisture and nutrients.  Also start a foliar program with Monty’s 2-15-15. 

If you follow the advice here on our blog you may be wondering why I am recommending the 2-15-15 formula during a ‘growth time’ in the plant’s development cycle.  The reason is your plants are showing signs of stress from heat and drought.  The last thing we want to do is to encourage MORE top-growth when the plant can’t support what it has now.  So by applying the 2-15-15 formula you are signaling the plant to put its energy into developing roots; kinda babying it until it recovers. The plant is also about done for the season, so let’s help it store energy to get through the winter ahead, a high dose of nitrogen right now could keep it from entering dormancy normally and expose the plant to more winter-kill.

If the brown leaves or wilt extends to the actual growing tip and the vine itself becomes brittle or turns almost black, the vine is probably dead as well.  Prune the vine down to the closest living branch area so all the dead material is done away with. Again, if you keep the plant well watered and fed you may continue to see new growth as the summer progresses.

Ask Monty’s:

“I have heard that adding salt to your asparagus beds is supposed to help them.  I have a beautiful wild asparagus bed and would sure like to maintain it as best as I can.  Is there any truth to the salt advice?  Is it just table salt?”

Roland

Crossgate, Kentucky

Roland:

Some people will add sodium chloride rock salt (NaCI) to their asparagus beds after they are at least a year old.  It sounds like your wild bed is already well established – so you can do this.  Apply about two and half pounds per 100 feet either before the spears actually appear in the spring or around July 4 when you’ve already pretty well harvested your crop.  The salt prevents crown and root rot diseases caused by fusarium fungus and actual improves the plants overall growth.  Do not use iodized salt (your common table salt) or rock salt made of calcium chloride (CaCI).  Pickling salt is fine too.

If the thought of adding salt to your plants just sounds to chancey, you may consider using Monty’s Liquid Carbon in the spring and fall. Crown rot and fusarium are what we like to call ‘wet feet’ diseases.  That is, they tend to move in when the roots of the plants are kept excessively moist, either from a wet spring or from over watering. In Kentucky, most gardeners deal with fairly heavy clay soils, so the moisture you receive tends to hang around.  By applying Monty’s Liquid Carbon, you can change the structure of these soils so that they allow the moisture to move more freely through the soil profile which results in better drainage.  Once your drainage situation is under control you will likely see a marked decrease in many of these ‘wet feet’ diseases.

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Monty’s Rose Care Calendar for July

By Dennis on July 2, 2010

Below are rose care tips from Monty’s namesake and the creator of Monty’s Original Formula, Monty Justice, for the month of June. These tips are based on growth zone 6 and you should adjust the timing for your specific region and conditions.

Resist the temptation to over-water your roses because of the heat.   You can do harm to the vigor of your roses by filling the air spaces in the soil with too much water.  Roses don’t need more water now than earlier in the year unless there are many more leaves to transpire the water in the plant.  

  • They need more frequent watering of both leaves and soil, not more water.  
  • Always water through the leaves of roses prior to continuing the maintenance program.  This will prevent leaf burn and assist the effectiveness of the spray materials.  
  • Very hot temperatures slow down, if not completely stop new rose growth.

When cutting stems for your enjoyment, prune to a heavy stem approximately thigh high through the end of July.  This is completely opposite from what you did in June.  During the active growing season pruning creates vigor.  When new growth matures with thicker stems in September you will have eliminated thin, leggy stems that are not strong enough to hold up the blooms.

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Ask Monty’s for 6/30/10 – Elephant Ears for Northern Climates, Late-Season Cold Snaps, and Late Blight on Tomatoes

By Dennis on June 30, 2010

Ask Monty’s:

“When we lived in Florida I had several elephant ear mammoths, which I dug up and moved with me to Maine.  Can these be planted as a perennial in this northern climate or will I need to dig them up every year?”

Hailey

Hallowell, Maine

Hailey:

In the southern states, where the winters are mild, elephant ears are perennials. However, moving them north of the Mason-Dixon Line will turn them into perennials that have to be dug up before hard frosts and winter snow hits.  If you have it in a movable pot and have the room, you could cut back the leaves and bring it in the house in the winter.  Otherwise, after the first frost you can cut the dead foliage back with a scissors and let it go dormant for the winter by putting it in a cool dark basement.

About 2-3 weeks ahead of dormancy I would also recommend making an application of Monty’s 2-15-15 formula.  This formula is excellent for helping the plant store energy and developing the roots over the winter, however, it will not provide enough N to spur on any late season growth.  Then in the spring when you transplant them or get ready to move them back outside, start them off slowly with Monty’s 4-15-12 it will provide enough N to slowly wake them up and bring them around (if you will be transplanting them it will also help minimize transplant shock).  Once they are established well, feel free to use Monty’s 8-16-8 to develop the enormous, gorgeous ears that make elephant ears the pride of the garden.

One last note, in your growth zone, as cold as winters can be, if you leave it in the ground, like cannas, the constant heaving of the soil from the elements, will simply cause it to crack, rot and dry out.

Ask Monty’s:

“We had such warm temperatures in April in our area that I went and starting planting some of my cool weather vegetables and what I thought were hardy flowering plants.  A cold snap slipped in about mid-May – much to everyone’s surprise – and froze all my plants.  Is there ever a standard rule of thumb regarding when it’s safe to plant in a person’s particular zone?”

Devon

Bucyrus, Ohio

Devon:

What you want to find out is what the average last frost date is in your area or zone for starters.  Visit www.noaa.govand type “frost dates” into the search box and you’ll get some pretty valuable information.  Another great site I found was through an online retailer call Greenhouse Magazine who has a facebook link: facebook.com/greenhousemegastore that shows detailed charts for all areas in every state.  It even has a nice image showing what the average dates are in your area.

Even with all of the cautions in the world, sometime mother nature has some surprises in store for us. Even though at Monty’s we have not investigated it scientifically, many gardeners and even farmers swear by the ability of Monty’s to help plants withstand the shock of our of season freezes.  One of our favorite stories came from a farmer who farms above the high-line in Northern Montana.  In 2005 they had a freeze where temperature dropped to 28 degrees for over 4 hours one July night.  While his untreated corn and all of his neighbors corn suffered severe frost damage, his Monty’s treated corn showed no sign of damage and went on to produce a great crop that fall.  As soon as your plants emerge or get established start treating them with Monty’s 8-16-8 every week or so.  See for yourself if you don’t join the ranks of homeowners with amazing Monty’s tales to tell.

Ask Monty’s:

“Late last summer my tomatoes got a blight that destroyed all of them.  Is this something I have to worry about again this summer?  So far my plants look excellent.”

Ansel

Adrian, Georgia

Ansel:

Late blight does not winter over in the soil in colder climates, but in warmer climates it can still be a threat – even in Georgia.  Be sure to water your plants close to the ground so moisture doesn’t actually splash up on the leaves.  A good bed of mulch like grass or straw will help keep the moisture in and the “splash” factor down which should help tremendously.

An application of Monty’s Liquid Carbon to your soil in the fall and/or the spring (you can even make an ’emergency’ application now) will help to increase the organic matter in the soil.  This will give you two benefits: One, it will help the soils drain.  Well drained soils do not have the tendency to create anaerobic environments that are beneficial to harmful bacteria.  Two, it may help improve the overall soil environment and encourage the native beneficial bacteria population so that they out-compete the harmful ones for resources.

Finally, since you are tlaking about late blight, I assume your plants are already blooming.  Spoon feed the plants additional nutrients like a tsp of epsom salts around the base of each plant (for added magnesium) and weekly applications of Monty’s 2-15-15 to provide for the overall health and nutrient needs of your tomatoes. 

Like all pest, diseases, and bacteria, late blight is a symptom that something else is wrong with your garden or plants.  Across all of nature, disease and prey always attack the weakest first.  By providing the nutrients they need, your plants will be able to better defend themselves with their own natural defense mechanisms.

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Ask Monty’s for 6/22/10

By Dennis on June 25, 2010

Question:

“My caladiums are beautiful this year and I’d like to propagate more to put around other parts of the garden. How do I do this as I know they are tuber-rooted?”

Heather,

Buckhorn, Kentucky  

Answer:

Propagation is done by dividing the tubers and this is usually done after their dormant winter period in the spring just before you plant them.  Cut the tubers into pieces with at least two buds, or “eyes,” per piece.  Plant them only about an inch deep and make sure you water them frequently to get them started. When you transplant them, you can also make a solution of one ounce of Monty’s 4-15-12 in one gallon of water; let the tubers soak while you are preparing their new home.  This will help provide them them with some added nutrients for germination and eaarly vigor. (Once they are up, add one ounce of Monty’s 8-16-8 per gallon of water applied to keep them vibrant and growing.) They like their soil temperatures warm, so don’t expect results until the spring weather warms the soil adequately.

Question:

“When shopping for planters I’ve noticed that many do not have drainage holes in the bottom. I thought you always had to have drainage holes to make sure the plant’s roots won’t rot. Which is the most preferred?”

Jordan, Bonanza, Oregon

Answer:

Planters with or without holes in the bottom for drainage really depends upon what you’re going to plant in them, your own personal watering habits and where the plant is going to live.  Houseplants usually get pots with drainage holes in them simply because they do not have to brave the dry elements of the outside environments such as wind and sun that dries plants out quickly.  Pots without holes in them can also be layered on the bottom with small gravel and sand which will serve the same drainage purpose.  I almost prefer this to the holes in the bottom of the planter, particularly for my houseplants, so I don’t have to worry about water seeping out of the bottom and onto my furniture.  Another practice I’ve adopted for my outside plants is that I use planters with solid bottoms and line the entire pot with a garbage bag to keep the plant’s moisture in longer.  This way they don’t dry out so fast. It seems like during the summer you can’t over water an outside plant.  So basically, by experimenting with both kinds of planters you’ll develop your own preference as well.

Question:

“I have small mushrooms growing all over my lawn, is this normal? Will it harm my lawn? We’ve had a lot of high temperatures and more than average rainfall in our area.  Would this have contributed to all these mushrooms sprouting up?”

Murph, Davenport, Iowa

Answer:

No doubt about it, mushrooms like damp, humid conditions and it sounds like you have had the perfect environment for growing them.  Once the sunlight hits them for a few days they should dry up and dissipate. Otherwise, just rake them out.  They’re not damaging to your lawn or other plants. Myself, I like to get rid of them as soon as possible because I had a dog that used to like to eat them and I’m never sure which are poisonous and which are not.  Mushrooms, as you know, are fungus in the ground which is breaking down dead organic matter and sprouting because of this decomposing.  In some parts of the country – such as Georgia – where the soil is clay and acidic, you will see a prevalent amount of mushroom growth.  Lime is recommended to add to the soil, which neutralizes it and helps prevent mushrooms from growing. If the musrooms are really a problem for you, you might also consider using some Monty’s Liquid Carbon it will help break down some of the organic matter in your lawn rapidly as well as help to balance the environment in your soil and allow for improved drainage.  One application in the spring and/or one in the fall should be sufficient to help improve most lawns.

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3 Generations, 3 Recipes, 3 Things to do with Cucumbers

By Dennis on June 18, 2010

To me, there is very little that is better than to bite into a cold cucumber.  In salads, on sandwiches, or as a garnish, they just scream freshness.  So this year, for the first time, I am attempting to grow my own.  I spaced my rows too close together, but otherwise they are doing fine.  With the help of Monty’s 4-15-12 at planting, Monty’s 8-16-8 during the growth or vegetative stage, and Monty’s 2-15-15 now that I am into the fruiting, I am harvesting about every other day, now.  My county agent came by yesterday to see all that I was doing and he said that I had so many blooms on my cucumbers that he could not count them all.  Which brings me to a question that you may have; what to do with all of those cucumbers?

Well, one of my favorite childhood memories was going to my Aunt Clara’s house. (technically she was my mom’s aunt and my great aunt but all of those vagaries escaped the mind of a pre-tween boy who was farm more fascinated with the days on the farm).  Aunt Clara was married to my Uncle Price (my namesake) and together they had a good northeast Texas farm.  I loved lunch there because each meal mean that she would open up a jar of pickles she had ‘put up’ that season.  I would eat as many as I could get away with, then sneak a few more in the afternoon when I caught them unattended.  After she passed, I asked one of my family members if anyone had her recipe.  I finally tracked it down and am now sharing it with you.  Truly, this is one of the best pickle recipes I have ever encountered.  It is simple but the results are wonderful.  I hope you enjoy making some ‘Aunt Clara Pickles’ this season.  Write back and let me know.

The second recipe comes from my mom.  She had farming in her veins but was the first generation to move off farm as she became a school teacher and missionary.  Needless to say her schedule kept her busy but she always maintained a garden patch or would enlist me to go with her on Saturday mornings to ‘pick on the halves’ at a local farm or to attend the Dallas Farmers Market before such things were trendy.  She never made traditional pickles, but she always had some ‘refrigerator dills’ going all summer long.  These modern "pickles" matched her lifestyle, they were quick, easy and "no muss, no fuss".  True, these are not pickles in the most explicit use of the word, but they also require no boiling, canning, or time.  What they lack in the true texture of pickles they make up for with the freshness of flavor that still carries a strong resemblance to cucumbers.  This recipe takes a total of about five minutes to prepare and while they are best if left to sit overnight, they can be ready to eat in as little as a few hours.  The recipe is below, under Mom’s Refrigerator Dills.

Finally, in this world of gardening and cooking in which I was raised, it was only natural that I would one day venture out and begin to try my own hand at each of these activities.  As such, I developed a quick light summer salad that can be used as a salad, a side dish, or a a great topper for grilled chicken.  It combines all of my favorite harbingers of summer, tomatoes, avocado, and of course cucumber.  You will find the  recipe below under  Summer Medley.

Aunt Clara’s Pickles

2 Qts. Water

1 Qt Apple Cider Vinegar

¾ – 1 Cup pickling salt (to taste – start with ¾ )

(Adjust above amounts proportionally to accommodate number of cucumbers.)

 Wash and Scrub Cucumbers

Place 1-2 bushy heads fresh dill w/stalks (fresh – not dry seed) into each jar.

Place cucumbers in jars – pack tightly.

Heat water, salt, and vinegar to boiling.

Pour mixture over cucumbers in jars to within ¼ inch of top.

Have new jar lids ready by bringing 1-2 inches of water to boil and placing jars lids (flat part with rubber seal) into boiling water for 5 min.

 Wipe off jar mouth with clean cloth prior to placing lids on jars. Place lids on jars (fresh from boiling water) and tighten retaining ring securely.

 Place filled jars into deep pan of boiling water sufficient to cover jars by at least 1 inch. Boil for 6 minutes. Remove from water (carefully) and place on towel to cool. Lids should “pop” down into concave shape upon cooling; otherwise, they are not securely sealed and should be reheated and cooled as above.

After properly sealed, store them in a cool dry area for 1-2 months to finish the pickling process.  Once they are finished, I dare ya to eat just one!

Mom’s Refrigerator Dills

Clean, Peel, and slice 2-3 medium to large cucumbers into ‘chips’  (If you are dealing with young, soft-skinned cucumbers you can skip peeling them)

Peel and slice a medium onion into rings

Layer mixture into a bowl just large enough to hold all of the cucumbers and onions

Add salt and pepper to taste (one clove of garlic is optional)

Add white vinegar until cucumbers and onions are just covered with liquid.

Place in refrigerator for at least 4-6 hours. 

Enjoy

Price’s Summer Medley

1-2 large Cucumber, 2-3 Large tomatoes, 1-2 avocados

make sure avocados are ripe, but not soft enough to make guacamole.

Pit and peel avocado, slice into six wedges.

Cut each wedge into two to three segments, set aside

Wash and cut tomatoes in to chunks, roughly an inch square or so. Set aside

Wash, Peel, and Slice cucumber into chips.  Cut chips in half.  (If you prefer you can diced the cucumber into large 1/2 inch chunks. Set aside.

In a medium sized bowl combine all three ingredients.  Add just a splash of olive oil.  Stir or toss lightly to coat.

Salt and pepper to taste.

If you have access to fresh herbs you may add those to taste, or optionally for spice add some dried chili pepper seeds or ‘Targin’ seasoning mix.

Enjoy!

Now as your cucumbers start to ‘come off’ you have three new recipes to try so you won’t have to wonder what to do with all of nature’s bounty.  With a little practice and patience you will have the fresh taste of summer, year round which is one of the things that makes gardening so enjoyable.  If you have a favorite recipe, let us know.  Simply send it to us in the comment section.

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Ask Monty’s 6/17/2010

By Dennis on June 17, 2010

We are starting a new segment on the blog called “Ask Monty’s”.  Whatever your most challenging lawn and Garden questions are, feel free to send them on to us.  From growth zones and insects, to how to grow particular plants. If it is green and growing (or should be) we’ll do our best to answer any questions you may have.

Just post your questions in the comments section.  Be sure to include your first name and the town you are in (you know, we need to check growth zones, climates and soil types so we can make sure we are giving you the best info possible.)

That’s all there is to it.  We’ll be updating this at least weekly so make sure you check back frequently for the best answers to your Lawn and Garden questions from “Ask Monty’s.”  

Now, here’s this week’s column:

Question:

“I bought some dahlias for the first time through the mail and was sent tubers – which I simply am not familiar with.  The package says there are enough for three plants.  The package is a mass of tubers, so how do I know how many to plant in one hole?”

Elise, Marshfield, Wisconsin

Answer:

If you take them out of the bag you will notice they are actually separated into three clumps or bunches.  If not, just do a visual separation and plant them by putting them on their side about 15-35 inches apart.  You’re going to love them!

Question:

“I read some where that a good way to get rid of weeds is to poor boiling water on them.  Does this work?”

Dorian, Naperville, Illinois

Answer:

It’s a very inexpensive and environmentally friendly way to get rid of weeds. You just pour boiling hot water right on them.  It may take a few applications, but it will do it.  It’s not something I would recommend for large areas, but for a few stray weeds or weeds growing in the cracks in your driveway or sidewalk it’s fine.

Question:

“I’d like to plan some baby’s breath. The make such nice additions to flower bouquets. Are they hard to grow? What do they prefer for sunlight?”

Janine, Crown Point, Indiana

Answer:

First of all there are both annuals and perennials, but I’m assuming it’s the perennial version you want.  Plant the seeds directly in the area you want them to stay long term. While they are low maintenance, they do prefer well drained soil and full sun.  Baby’s breath planted in shady areas won’t bloom to their full potential and will get leggy and floppy.  Left undisturbed, they’ll thrive for years to come.

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Summertime and the Living is HOT!

By Dennis on June 14, 2010

Right now  we are experiencing one of those hot dry spells for which the south is famous!  The heat is in the 90’s and the humidity is in the 60-85% range leaving us with heat indices over 100.  Right now, I believe my heat index is 108.

It is not only making me miserable, my plants are showing the effects, too.  So, this week I thought I would share some tips on gardening in this climate.

1. It all starts in the spring.  Choose native varieties of plants that are already conditioned for your climate.  Trying to grow cool season plants in near tropical conditions will never end well.  Work with nature, not against it.  If you give in to a particular flower or vegetable just because it looks good in the magazine, you may coax it into surviving, but it will take you far more effort and water than you may have anticipated.

2. It all starts in the spring, part two.  Gardeners are always tempted to water heavily.  The rule of thumb is 1 inch of water per week.  However, once your plants are established, let the soil dry out a few times in between waterings in the cool of the spring.  This will encourage the roots to reach down deeper.  If you don’t do this and you are always giving the plants abundant moisture, the root systems will be shallow and the plants will be far more susceptible to drought stress when the upper two inches of soil dry out.

3. Mulch.  Applying mulch to your garden will do two things, it will help keeps weeds from out-competing your plants for needed moisture.  Secondly, it will help to keep the moisture that is present from evaporating as quickly.  Simply apply the mulch to within  four inches of the base of the plant.  In vegetable gardens, apply the mulch in between rows.

I learned the hard way this season not to mulch all the way up to the plant stem.  My county agent informed me that doing this keeps the soil too moist and helps it serve host to a wide variety of bacteria and fungal problems.  Of my 44 tomato plants I lost 16 due to soil borne pathogens resulting from my soil being too wet, too close to the stem.

4. When you do water, water deeply.  Most plants need approximately 1 inch of water per week.  If you don’t know how much that is,  simply scatter some empty tuna cans around your gardens and begin watering.  When the cans are full, you have watered approximately 1 inch.

5.  All plants are not created equally.  In your flower beds, cactus and other succulents can easily be overwatered. They actually prefer it hot and a bit on the dry side.  In the garden, okra and peppers are the same, while tomatoes and melons are heavy feeders and require abundant moisture.  With this in mind, water your plants in blocks rather than all at once so that similar plants receive adequate moisture.

6. Water in the morning, when possible.  The temperatures and conditions are most favorable for watering either in the morning or at night when evaporation loss will be lowered (good for your plants, better for your budget).  However, if you water at night and the plants do not have time to dry out, you will create a great breeding ground for bacteria and fungus that will ultimately be harmful.

7. Use Monty’s foliar fertilizers. Monty’s formulas are low in salts and will not cause additional crops injury or burn, even during the hot summer months.  Plus, the additional nutrients can help your plants better deal with stresses related to heat and drought.

8. Finally, your plants are not the only things that need water.  Keep yourself hydrated while you are working in the sun. Drink at least 8 extra ounces for each hour you are working (and sorry, beer and sodas don’t count..they actually will work as diuretic and further compound the problem).

If you have any tips, leave us a comment.  We’d love to hear from you and to see pics of your gardening success. Post them below.

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Monty’s Rose Care Calendar for the Month of June

By Dennis on June 9, 2010

Below are rose care tips from Monty’s namesake and the creator of Monty’s Original Formula, Monty Justice, for the month of June. These tips are based on growth zone 6 and you should adjust the timing for your specific region and conditions.

1. It makes good sense to enjoy the rose blooms in your garden rather than cutting long stems and foliage.  

A rule of thumb:  don’t remove over 20% of the stem and foliage at the end of the first bloom cycle.  

2. Dead head remaining spent blooms:  snap each bloom off without taking stems or leaves. Rose plants, at the end of the first bloom period, need as many of the leaves left on the plant to replace the energy expended in the initial growth and to provide more stems and blooms in the next cycle.  

3. Apply Epsom salts, 2 tablespoons per plant broadcast on the ground beneath each plant.  Epsom salts, which is made of magnesium sulfate makes calcium and potassium available to be taken up by plant roots.  The leaves will stay green to the base and will provide increased energy from the sun.  

4. Pulling off the lower leaves 4-6″ from the ground will minimize blackspot, mite damage and initiate new basil growth.  

5.  Apply a 2″ woody mulch to keep the ground temperature cool, soil from caking and minimize weeding.  

6. Continue spray program for insects and disease.  Always water the leaves and soil with thoroughly before applying pesticides. This will help to open up the stomata of the plant and the pores on the leaf surface so that more of the pesticide can be taken in.

7. Using Monty’s 8-16-8 will help encourage new growth, and help produce large foliage so that the plant can maintain higher energy for the next bloom cycle and for continued growth and vitality.

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Is Gardening Really Worth it?

By Dennis on May 17, 2010

That seems like an odd question to be asking here on a gardening and plant blog.  But I am an accidental gardener and a full-time marketing and communications person. So, ultimately, every question in my career comes down to an ROI, or return on investment, question.  You know, the stuff they teach in Business 101 classes; things like state your goals, make sure they are measurable, blah blah blah.  So, with that as my filter and with summer produce starting to appear in the grocery store at sale prices, I started wondering, “Is all this really worth it?”

First, as a primer, I recommend you check out these web stories.  The first from Purdue University then there is this one from our friends over at MSN.  Both come to this conclusion, it depends.

I must say that I would agree.  Some vegetables, from a purely economic standpoint, just are not worth the time and investment.  Once you account for your time, the equipment necessary, the land that could be used for something else (opportunity cost, thank you Adam Smith), etc., it can be hard to break-even on a modest size garden.  As you move to a larger garden and if you have family members to help you, then you can get some economies of scale but the costs can still be rather high for some fixed inputs like seed.

Here are some things to consider:

  • A good tool is worth it’s cost.  Don’t settle for cheap tools.  Buy quality, Buy Once.  I, myself, have opted to only add to my tool collection a little at a time.  My first year I only bought what I absolutely had to have.  A shovel, hoe, rake, two hand tools, and two garden hoses (later that fall after learning the need for one, I splurged for a wheel-barrow after an unexpected windfall left me with an extra $75 in my pocket.  It was ‘found money’ and i would have used it on Dr. Peppers, or i-tunes anyway…I figured this was a better use.)  By buying nicer tools, I am relatively assured that they will be here for several seasons and will perform as desired, hold their edge, and not break down. Y0u can get some really good heirloom quality hand tools here. (after three seasons, I have zero complaints).  I am still hoping to be able to splurge for a tiller in the near future from craigslist but so far I have not found what I am looking for at a cost that seems reasonable for a tool I would use a handful of times throughout the year.
  • When figuring your costs, some things can be spread over several seasons.  Garden hoses for example (each of mine were contractor grade and cost between $25 and $30) will not be used up after one season.  If taken care of, they should last for at least 5 seasons so my real cost is only $5-6 per year.  My wheel barrow was almost $75 dollars but I expect to use it more than a decade so again my costs will avg less than $10 per season.
  • Your consumable inputs – things you use, use up, then have to replace – are the real budget busters so look to save wherever you can.  If possible buy seeds rather than plants, buy seeds in bulk rather than pre-packaged, shop on-line or from catalogue centers.  I also highly recommend one in particular, Berlin Seeds in Berlin, Ohio.  They are Amish, so don’t expect to e-mail them an order or have online shopping capabilities.  But their catalogues are wonderful and their quality is very high.  Plus their integrity above impeachment.  Call and ask to be put on their mailing list @ 1-877-464-0892. The catalogues are not only full of seeds, bulbs, etc., but also have loads of gardening tips passed down from generations of Amish families and farmers. Finally, look for natural remedies with household products for controlling weeds and insects.
  • Improving your soil should be looked at as a process, not a quick fix.  Sure, you can do the quick fix thing, but it will be VERY expensive.  Compost and manures are availble for free if you are willing to do your homework. Monty’s Liquid Carbon can also help expedite the process.  Work with your county extension agent to do a soil test, and to find out what plants perform well in your area.  Some plants, or some varieties of plants, just won’t grow in your climate/soil.  Start by working with what nature gives you and amend your garden to your needs a section at a time.

Here are the break-outs of some costs  I have incurred while getting my gardening lifestyle up and going.

  • Hoses (3)                           $  25.00 ea
  • Seed packets                    $    1.29 each
  • Seed (bulk)                       $     1-3 per pound  1/4 to 1/2 pound has been more than enough for anything I have grown.
  • Hoe                                     $  19.00  Local Hardware store
  • Rake                                   $  22.00 Local Hardware store
  • Hand-tools                      $ 7-21.00 plus shipping from Wilcox All Pro Tools
  • Wheel Barrow                $ 72.00    From Local farmer’s Co-op
  • Compost and manure $ FREE     worked with county gov. and some local farmers. All it cost me was time.
  • Chemicals                        $ 24.00 qt.   I use these very sparingly, and mainly for weed control in spring or fall. Once I have crops in the garden I hand weed.  Insect control,  I use household products, hand remove slugs, beetles and eggs and pray alot.
  • Water                                 $   3.00 per month – This is about the difference in my water bill once my garden is in.  I make sure my garden receives at least 1 inch of moisture per week.  I would rather pay for a little bit of water and make sure I get to harvest a crop.  For example, last season, my neighbor who is an old-timer and firmly believes that God will send all the water that the plants need and he “ain’t about to waste money watering no plants” got about 1/3rd – 1/2 less produce last summer than I did, even though his garden, by all rights, looks better than mine.
  • Fertilizer              $  75.00 per season.  I use Monty’s three formulas exclusively and the quart bottles are more than enough to get me through the season. Even though I spoon feed them at least twice a week.
  • Pump Sprayers  $10-25   I own two.  The first one cost me almost $25  last season and nothing goes in it but herbicides.  I strongly believe in segregating between ‘death chemicals’ – herbicides etc… and ‘life chemicals’ – my liquid fertilizers and soil conditioners.  This season, though, when I bought my second sprayer the price had fallen dramatically to only $10.00 for the same size/same brand/same store.

In season, it may be hard to feel like it makes financial sense to garden, after all produce is coming in from producers who have economies of scale and can sale things more cheaply than you can raise them.  BUT, keep an eye on the savings in the fall and winter because that is when you savings will really add up.  For example, this year at Christmas all of our side dishes came from our own garden.  Tomatoes and onions that were near two dollars a pound and kinda mealy at the store were fresh, ‘free,’ and as close as my pantry and freezer.  Ditto that for my daughter’s recent birthday.  Plus, there is a sense of pride that overwhelms you when you sit down to fresh frozen okra at supper while the snow is piling up outside.

Now, I realize that this has reduced things to a mere economic question and there are myriad other reasons like health, quality, accessibility, exercise, and sheer enjoyment that are hard to quantify.  But if you garden smart, and grow slowly, you can make gardening worth it, not only for the food you receive but for the pleasure and the satisfaction of a job well done.

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Uh-Oh Oregano!

By Dennis on May 13, 2010

Okay, so my first failure of the season.  I transplanted some oregano and now, it is dead.  Everything I had heard about this plant was that it was easy to transplant, easy to grow.  So, I didn’t put much thought into it; I just planted it.  Now, it’s dead.  I have planted some German Thyme in it’s place and will try again this weekend.  After I did my research.

Here is what I learned.  First, the main species of oregano that most people are familiar with is Greek Oregeno, the other more pungent variety is Mexican Oregano.  However, the names should tell us something.  They are used to growing in poor soils, in full sun, and in fairly dry conditions.

I over-watered mine apparently.

A few more tips about oregano. 

  • Pinch off any flowers to allow the plant to ‘bush out’ more and to keep it from bolting. 
  • Harvesting before flowers have a chance to develop will also provide a more ‘oregano-y tasting plant (is that a word..probably not, but you get the idea). 
  • Also, the stems can get very woody, so strip the leaves by running your fingers from the top of the stem down toward the base and removing them from the main stem.  Discard the stem.  Not a lot of flavor there.
  • Since you are looking to produce moderate growth, and you do not want to encourage flowering, a bi-weekly feeding of Monty’s 4-15-12 should be enough to sustain these plants.

If you want to know more, check out this site.

Btw, if you have some success tips for growing oregano or other herbs, please reply back/comment and let us know.  I would enjoy learning from you and I am sure it would be a help to others in our blogging community.

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