Monty’s Rose Care Calendar: October

Continue maintenance program until hard frost or freeze occurs.  Meteorologicallly speaking, a hard frost is defined as temperatures at 28 degrees Fahrenheit or colder for at least four consecutive hours.   Apply Monty’s Plant Food (2-15-15)  to the leaves of your roses with minimal amounts of water for the soil. ( Click here to order) This product thickens the cells of the plants, and helps them retain elasticity, which may protect the canes from winter damage.  The more you can do now to protect your canes through the winter and to increase the likelihood that they will begin spring growth with little if any winter damage, the more likely you are to begin the new season next spring with larger more vigorous plants with little if any pruning needed. 

This is also an ideal time to remediate your soil.  Monty’s Liquid Carbon, if applied to the soil of your garden’s now will have time to start working before winter.( click here to order) This is important because Monty’s Liquid Carbon works in concert with your microbial populations and those little microscopic miners go dormant in soil temperatures below 45 degrees Fahrenheit.  Additionally, the normal ‘heaving’ of the soil during the freeze/thaw cycle will allow Monty’s Liquid Carbon to penetrate deep into your soil profile.  Finally, any Liquid Carbon that you apply now will be there, ready to work, come early spring when often it is too muddy to get much accomplished.

For those of you who experienced the deep drought and extreme heat this summer that we did around our gardens this summer, be aware.  The drought most likely caused your soils to collapse as the moisture was evacuated by evaporation.  This means that you will likely have to deal with compaction this next season, even if compaction is not normally an issue for you.  Monty’s Liquid Carbon is a great help to gardeners fighting against compaction-related problems.

Ask Monty’s for 9/30/10: Roses, Coneflowers and Organic Pest Control

Ask Monty’s:

“Do you know of any more natural ways to control garden pests?  I’m trying to stay as chemical free as possible, but some of my methods aren’t covering all the bases.”

Renee
Grey Eagle, Minnesota

Renee:

I applaud your approach and environmental dedication.  While chemicals can be quick, effective answers to warding off garden pests, sometimes some very easy proactive approaches can be just as effective.  Probably the number one garden routine to establish is taking that daily walk in the garden to look for any changes in plant leaves, stalks or flowers.  I’ve caught many “new developments” taking place in my garden on several occasions and warded off major damage with that daily check (Tomato worms can strip a plant in the blink of an eye – I swear!)  That said, it also might mean thinking like a pest or insect and searching for signs of where they hide under leaves.  My mother-in-law, who was a great fisherman, used to say, “If you want to catch fish, you have to think like a fish!”  Same advice applies.

Hand picking off pests such as snails and slugs and destroying affected leaves is important in staying ahead of the game.  Planting garlic, dill, fennel, carrots and parsley among your plants also encourages beneficial insects such as ladybugs to rid your garden of a variety of pests. 

If you’re planting annuals or garden vegetables, rotate where you plant them from year to year, as different plants require different nutrients.  Weeding is also very important so you control desirable habitat for those unwanted pests.  A couple of natural offenses for pests are insecticidal soap mixed with water or pureed cloves of garlic (2) to a pint of water and use as a spray.

Two last thoughts.  First, don’t assume that just because the insect are harming your plants that they are harming your garden.  that can be a tough pill to swallow.  However, think like nature thinks.  These insects prey on the weak plants first.  They are easier targets with less native resitance.  So destorying yoru plants may be doing you a favor in the long run.  The plants that they kill likely would not have produced much fruit and owuld have still taxed the resources like water and nutrients just like they were your best producers.  Additionally if you save seeds for next year from this season, the seeds you save, after the insect have moved through, are naturally resistant to that particular pest. Survival of the fittest can go a long way to giviing you years of improved gardening. Finally, along hte same lines, since we know that insect prey ont he weakest plants first, make sure you have as few ‘weak links’ as possible.  Water adequately and provide additional nutrients with Monty’s foliar applications. Personally, I treat my plants to an extra dose of Monty’s 8-16-8 or 2-15-15 (depending on the plants growth cycle) once a week.

Ask Monty’s:

“My coneflowers this year looked terrible.  They turned brown and looked wilted all the time.  I tried watering them regularly and even fertilized them and they still continued to look deformed and the flowers were sparse.  What happened?  I would rather have had them not come up at all, they were that unsightly.”

Coco
Clyde, Ohio

Coco:

Coneflowers thrive in hot, dry conditions so you may have over watered them in your efforts to revive them.  But when you mentioned the plant deformity and sparse looking flower heads I think your plants have succumbed to aster yellows which is a disease caused by phytoplasoma, a plant killing microorganism transmitted by aster leafhoppers which can often occur from over watering.  Aster yellows can create the bizarre symptoms you suggest, along with other plant deformities.  There’s no cure for aster yellows so my best advice is to dig them up and remove any and all affected plants from your garden and destroy them by burning them or bagging them for the trash. Don’t put them in your compost pile.

Ask Monty’s:

“What’s the difference between a Multiflora Rose and a Virginia Rose?  They look the same and their flowers look similar as well.”

Trudi
Stillwater, Oklahoma

Trudi:

The only thing they really have in common is the fact that they are both deciduous shrubs and thrive in similar zones.  You must have seen these plants either side by side in size or in a photo because these plants are completely different in nature.  Multiflora Roses can grow up to 15 feet tall and are extremely evasive, forming thickets in all kinds of habitat, choking out natural plants and becoming a farmer’s agricultural nightmare.  One plant alone can produce up to one million seeds each year!

The plant you really want is the fragrant Virginia Rose.  This fast growing shrub gets between four to six feet tall and makes for a good hedge or as an addition to a wildlife garden.  The rose hips provide food for wildlife, hosts the Mourning Cloak Caterpillar and even have pretty reddish canes in winter as an added attraction.

Putting Your Best Petal Forward (pt 2): Grooming Roses for Rose Shows

Editor’s Note:  We have compiled several videos from noted rosarian and co-founder of Monty’s Plant Food Company, Monty Justice.  As a seasoned veteran, frequent winner, and judge of the Rose Show circuit, Justice is a sought-after consultant and speaker on all issues related to roses.  As such, we followed him to the Kentucky State Fair in the Fall of 2010 so he could teach us what judges are looking for, how to prep blooms for presentation, and in short, how to put your best bloom forward whether you are competing or just want to display your hard work in your home.  We hope you enjoy these segments and we look forward to hearing about your blue-ribbon successes.

Most roses are beautiful, but all roses are not show quality.  In this video, Monty’s Justice shows how to present roses with the ‘perfect’ round shape and the proper display of their petals.

Just like any competition, what separates the champions from the also-rans is attention to detail.  In this segment, Monty shows some of the tricks that winners use to get their blooms ready to face the judges.

Putting Your Best Petal Forward (pt 1): What the Judges are Looking for

Editor’s Note:  We have compiled several videos from noted rosarian and co-founder of Monty’s Plant Food Company, Monty Justice.  As a seasoned veteran, frequent winner, and judge of the Rose Show circuit, Justice is a sought-after consultant and speaker on all issues related to roses.  As such, we followed him to the Kentucky State Fair in the Fall of 2010 so he could teach us what judges are looking for, how to prep blooms for presentation, and in short, how to put your best bloom forward whether you are competing or just want to display your hard work in your home.  We hope you enjoy these segments and we look forward to hearing about your blue-ribbon successes.

Monty talks with us about what Judges are looking for in a winning rose.

In this segment, Monty examines a good specimen of a garden rose and uses it as an example of what the judges will notice.

Monty stops by one exhibit to show a flaw that judges are quick to notice in any competition.

Perfection aside, at the end of the day, what most novices appreciate about a rose is the way they smell. This class is custom suited for the beginning rose grower and the rank-and-file hobbyist who just appreciates the simple aspects of fresh roses. Put away your magnifying class and stop and smell the roses awhile.

Monty’s Rose Care Calendar for September

Below are rose care tips from Monty’s namesake and the creator of Monty’s Original Formula, Monty Justice, for the month of June. These tips are based on growth zone 6 and you should adjust the timing for your specific region and conditions.

September:   The hottest, most stressful days of summer are behind us, and if you have taken care of your roses all year, then you are getting ready for a beautiful display of new blooms.  I recommend using Monty’s 2-15-15 sprayed to the foliage of the plants to improve this flush of blooms and increase the vibrancy and their staying power.  However, one drawback to the cool nights and warm days is that the plants will not dry out as well as they do during the summer; this leads to mildew problems.  Spray purplish red growth at the top of the plants; treat for mildew as needed.  

When cutting blooms for your enjoyment you should have been cutting stems as long as desired since July. Be careful not to cut too much of the stem when you remove your roses for shows or for home enjoyment.  If you trim them back too far or if you prune too heavily there will not be enough sun or energy left to establish the base for new growth for next season.

Editor’s Note: September is also the time of year that many will be grooming their roses for exhibition.  Keep watching this blog for tips on what the judges are looking for and how to present your roses so they can put their best petal forward.

Ask Monty’s for 9/6/2010 – Winter Veggies, Tomato Rot, and Planting with Hardscapes

 Ask Monty’s:

“I’d like to plant some winter vegetables – I’m not ready to quit having fresh vegetables just yet!  What vegetables do you suggest I start with?”

Ambrose, Chickasha, Oklahoma

Ambrose:

You actually have quite a few options in your area – a little farther north though and your choices start to become more limited.  First of all, keep in mind that the best place to plant your winter crop will be in an area that has the most southern exposure you can get and a spot that will be best protected from the wind.  You need all the warmth you can get and no drying, cold winds to terrorize your efforts.  Plant your crops in the soil and not in raised beds either.  While a raised bed warms up fast in the spring, it is far too exposed to retain heat for winter crops.

That said, Kale is a good crop for greens for soups or just “greens” in the crock pot. Kale can even survive throughout the winter even in sub zero weather.  For a late fall or early winter you can plant Bok Choi, which has delicate white stalks and greens and are excellent for stir frying. It also matures quickly. 

Turnips are one of my all time favorites.  As a root crop they serve a duo food purpose with both their greens and fleshy radish like vegetable that they produce.  While the tops may finally freeze off, the turnip itself will grow right up until the ground turns hard.  But beware, deer love these and will seek them out readily!  I swear I think they can smell them!

Beets are excellent and similar to the turnip with their tops actually being even more durable to cold weather.  Certain types of lettuce also do well in early fall predominately.  Broccoli is also very resistant to cold.

A key factor in how well your crops will yield has to do with how well you protect them from the cold. If you have a greenhouse, you’re in great shape, but even cold frames and sheets and blankets will help protect your plants from the cold night temperatures.  I’ve even used a 75 watt light bulb and holiday string lights under the sheets to keep heavy frosts at bay!

Water your plants regularly of course, but stop once the threat of frost is evident.  The soil will hold the moisture, as will the plants, so excessive moisture will cause the plants to freeze.   

Ask Monty’s:

“Every year I struggle with tomatoes growing close to the ground and despite my religious mulching practice if I don’t catch them in time they rot as they ripen.  Other than staking them and running the risk of the heavy fruit laden branches breaking, what can a person do?”

Thad
Pasadena, Maryland

Thad:

I discovered a pretty simple solution to this same problem.  I plant my young plants in sturdy paper two quart square containers – like orange juice comes in – cutting the ends out and sinking them a ways in the ground to support the young plants.  They’re sturdy and durable and can simply be left in the ground as the plant grows until fall clean up.  I mulch the ground with grass clippings like I normally do to keep the moisture in and then I use plastic case size soft drink carriers that are only as high as a pop can, of course, and place them around the plants, leaving ample room around them.  As the plants grow and spread they lie across the containers safely up off the ground to hinder ground rot and keep air circulation.  I have cut my tomato rot down by at least 75%! 

Ask Monty’s:

“What plants thrive best in rock gardens, particularly between them?”  

Shay
Shad, Ohio

Shay:

Hens and chicks come to mind immediately.  Sedum will grow just about anywhere, but you would probably do better with the ground covering stone crop varieties which are even more drought resistant, smaller and will spread out and lounge over rocks and walks nicely.  Phlox comes in all colors, leaving a nice lush mat even when their little flowers are done blooming in early spring.  Even herbs like dill, fennel and mint will do well in rock gardens and serve duo purposes and interest, becoming lusher as you cut and use them.

If you have a lot of intense shade in an area of your rock gardens, even lily of the valley will spread easily though the soil cracks, as well Chinese lanterns.  But both of these plants will spread quickly so make sure you have a lot of room for these guys.

Ask Monty’s for 8/30/2010 Rain Barrels, Tomatoes, and Herbs

Ask Monty’s:

“I want to put in some rain barrels at the bottom of my downspouts for all the right reasons.  I was wondering if it makes a difference as to what kind of material the barrels are made of.”

Lowell,
Clifton, Colorado

Lowell:

Welcome to one of the most rewarding and easiest forms of water conservation!  Your plants and garden are going to love your mineral rich rainwater, while slashing your water consumption by up to 40% depending on how much you use it.  Plastic or wood rain barrels are fine and are sold commercially.  The normally come in 25 to 100 gallon options.

Just something to keep in mind though as a note of caution, rain barrels that collect water from copper roofs or from roofs where wood shingles or shakes have been treated with chromated copper arsenate to prevent moss or algae growth should not be used on editable plants.  If you have treated your roof with any chemicals at all you won’t want to use that water either.

Two other notes on rain water collection barrels:

In your neck of the woods especially, you’ll want to empty your rain barrel when the weather starts to freeze over the winter.  If you don’t have a protected indoor area to store it, just turn it upside down and secure it to prevent animals from making a winter home in it or getting water accumulation in it which can freeze, expand, and potentially crack the barrel, especially one that is made of plastic.

Finally, make sure you keep a mesh screen over the top and that you clean it frequently.  The mess can collect debris which will interfere with collection and provide a place for mold and mildew to form.  However, without one all of those items will end up in your barrel and can foul your water.  Additionally, mosquitoes look for ponded, still water to lay their eggs.  An open rain barrel would make an ideal breeding ground for them.  Not only will that make time in your yard less pleasant, across the south this year there has been another outbreak of west nile virus. By eliminating standing water form your property you can greatly reduce mosquito populations for you and your neighbors.

If you are having trouble finding a barrel in your area, may we suggest you talk to one of our friends in Louisville?  This is the link to Naturally Horton’s  for those in the Louisville Metro, its in The Highlands.

Ask Monty’s: 

“When is the best time to harvest herbs?”

Carol
Aitkin, Minnesota

Carol:

The best time to harvest herbs is right before the flowers open.  This is when their aroma and taste in their essential oils are at their peak like thyme, basil and mint.  The preferred time to pick them is also in the morning when they are at their freshest and the most potent.  Never pick herbs in wet or humid conditions. Finally, Monty’s 2-15-15 works well to keep the plants in the flower cycle and may help elevate brix levels, which in herbs will increase the aromatics and flavors as well as improve shelf life.

Also, don’t forget one of our favorite places to visit and to visit virtually is Beagle Ridge Herb Farm in Wytheville, VA.  They are a great source for information for all things herbs, natural gardening, and GARLIC!  check them out here.

Ask Monty’s:

“I’ve read that instead of pulling out spent tomato plants, you can simply cut them back and keep watering them to encourage new growth and fruit.  Is there any truth to this?”

Mike
Norwalk, Iowa

Mike:

Depending on your weather cooperation, this is true and new growth will develop, along with a respectable new harvest.  Make sure you pick tomatoes often, keeping the weight off the stems and branches so they don’t break or bend.  It’ll also give your other plants more room to produce freely.

Once you prune them, you will want ot help encourage new growth as well as help the plant deal with the stresses involved with pruning.  Monty’s 8-16-8 should help with that, then once your plants have regrown and have begun to set blooms again, switch to Monty’s 2-15-15 to enhance flower set and fruit production.

Anatomy of a Drought pt.1

The Optimism of Spring is quickly, cruelly crushed by the reality of Autumn.  — dpr    

 And with that quote, so begins my fall. All that I had hoped to accomplish this summer in my lawn and in my garden is now face to face with the reality of what happened this season.  My harvest has been acceptable, but just barely. I put up several quarts of cucumbers, I have tomatoes waiting in canning jars for some fall stews and pastas, my potatoes will wait in their earthen tombs until I get a hankering for them, but all in all the performance was lack luster. Sure, thanks to Monty’s my results were better than most in the area, but still not nearly what I had anticipated in those days of spring when I assaulted the earth with my hoe and seed packets. As for my lawn, the work I had done to rid it of weeds fell apart. Sure I was the only lawn without the plague of dandelions, and my Bermuda grass strengthened in the areas where it was already growing, but that is small consolation when you compare it to the bevy of crab grass clumps now growing where fescue once thrived.

I have talked the whole thing over with my county extension agent. Bottom line, my planning, optimism, and hard work were brought to naught by our drought. Again, small consolation, but I am in the same boat with everyone in the country except for New Mexico and Iowa, who, for some reason in the russian roulette called weather, received an abundance of moisture this season.

The only saving grace is that what we experienced this year can prepare us for next year, or the next time we encounter similar circumstances.

In order to do that, we must understand our enemy; in this case drought.

So here are some quick lessons about drought and plant response:

Drought- drought is defined as a prolonged period of abnormally low rainfall particularly one that negatively affects growing or living conditions.  Sometimes drought symptoms occur because of a dry period, at other times you may be receiving normal rainfall, but are experiencing unusually hot temperatures.  So you are getting your traditional rainfall, just not enough to support the additional heat units. In this scenario, you may not be in a ‘drought’ climatologically but it is all the same to the plant. 

Drought is not death- Many people assume that if their lawn or plants turn brown that they are ‘dead’.  This is not necessarily, or even usually, the case.

Learn to speak ‘plant’ – Drought response occurs in stages and by understanding the stages we can determine how best to react to preserve our precious plants. Everything a plant does is telling us something, from “everything’s okay so I’m growing and producing like expected” to “I need some help, here.”  

Understanding your plants response to drought – The wilting and eventually browning that you see is actually a fascinating plant response aimed at preserving life in the plant. 

  • Curling – When the plant senses excess heat or a dry period, the first thing it does is to make itself as small as possible. This is the reason for the curling leaves on broadleaf grasses, cucumbers, corn, etc.  The more leaf surface that is exposed to the sun, the more the plant loses moisture to a process known as transpiration. Secondarily, the more sunlight the plant receives the more it generates a photosynthetic responses.  In the ‘mind’ of the plant it is ‘thinking’ “Look, I don’t have enough moisture to support the growth I have, why do I need to get any bigger or add any more leaves/fruit.”  So, the plant simply curls up to slow these two processes down. To our eye it looks as if the plant is dying, when in fact it is doing everything it can to survive and conserve moisture and energy. 

 

  • Wilting – Plants do need a certain amount of moisture to survive, and if it is not getting it from the sky or a water hose it will eventually start to cannibalize itself; that is, take the moisture and nutrients from it farthest extremities to make sure the fruit already formed and the core of the plant itself, survives.   When this happens, moisture and chlorophyll is withdrawn from the outer leaves first in the absence of liquid, the veins and capillaries collapse. Once these systems are no longer turgid, the leaves grow limp and wilting occurs. 

 

  • Browning –  In the absence of chlorophyll the green color leaves, leaving behind the yellow-brown coloration of the plants infrastructure. As a last defense, the plant closes down all of the pores from which it formerly ‘breathed’ and exchanged nutrients, moisture, and oxygen with the environment. As the pores close off, the plant becomes very tight, rigid, and brittle, this is combination is what causes the crunching sound as you walk across a drought-stricken lawn.

 

  • Death – If the drought is not relieved, the plant will continue to same process, working from the outside in until finally the last of the roots and the crown of the plant (the growing point just about soil level) also succumbs.  At this point, the plant is truly dead and there is no hope for revival.

 

  • A quick word about your soil – Similar reactions are also taking place within the soil:  the top few inches dry out first, a hard crust is formed to retain as much sub-soil moisture as possible, organic matter is forced deeper into the soil to survive and the soil cells, once plump with moisture and pliable are now hard, crusty, collapsed, and will eventually crack (depending on the volume of clay).  Those cracks are signs that the soil did all it could to hold out as long as possible, but eventually shrunk too much to hold its former shape and volume.

Fortunately, droughts do not happen all at once, neither does the plant respond immediately.   Because of that, with a basic understanding of what the plant is trying to accomplish, you can intervene until all but the very last stages and still salvage your lawns or gardens with some pretty basic steps.  In our next blog, we’ll discuss how to deal with drought and how to help your plants survive and resume production.

Ask Monty’s for 8/23/2010 – Magnolias, Bulb Plants, Tomatoes

Ask Monty’s:

“I planted my iris, crocus and tulips when we first moved into our house almost ten years ago.  Although they have spread out quite nicely from their original site, they haven’t been producing the abundance of flowers they produced in the first five years or so.  Do they all need a good fertilizing routine – something I never really do?”

Ansel,                                                                                                                                     
Fredericksburg, Virginia

Ansel:

Fertilizer never hurts, especially if you’re not one who consistently does it.  However, I think what you really need to do to rejuvenate your old perennials is simply divide them.  Once you’ve dug them up, divided them and moved them, amend the old site with organic matter to replenish the oil.  You should see your plants revival in the spring once the have room to stretch out again.

Ask Monty’s:

“My pink Magnolia tree is in trouble!  I planted it in the spring and now the leaves are turning yellow and brown and dropping off.  I know it is late summer, but isn’t it a little early for the tree to start losing its leaves?”

Cassandra
Absecon, New Jersey

Cassandra:

Magnolias like moist well drained soil.  The symptoms you are describing indicates droughty and waterlogged soil.  Water the tree thoroughly when the soil at the base of the tree is crumbly and dry.  Then spread wood chips, shredded bark or mulch around the base of the tree to help keep the moisture in, the grass at bay and soil temperatures more even.  The best part about the mulch breaking down is it will nourish the soil to, so replenishing it should be routine.

Ask Monty’s:

“When you pick tomatoes is it better to put them in the refrigerator crisper or leave them out on the counter or a table?”

Ryan
Hopkins, Minnesota

Ryan:

Tomatoes that are not fully ripe will ripen best on a counter or table all on their own.  I’m not shy about picking tomatoes that aren’t quite ripe, so you shouldn’t be either.  From a taste standpoint refrigerated tomato flesh loses its softness and sweetness.  Do a concentrated taste test and decide for yourself.  I sometimes will put my very ripe tomatoes in the refrigerator if I’m not going to get to canning right away, but I even try to stay away from that if I possibly can.

Ask Monty’s for 8/9/10: Raised Beds, Hostas, and Dragonflies

Ask Monty’s:

We put a small pond in our backyard this summer, along with quite a bit of appropriate landscaping plants and flowers around it.  It turned out nice and it is attracting a lot of wildlife to it.  I’ve noticed a lot of dragonflies particularly, something I’ve never really thought much about or thought would find the pond so attractive.  I don’t know much about them but I want to make sure they aren’t a type of bug that is going to cause me any trouble or damage to the plants.  Are they good guys or bad guys?”

 Sandra and Steve,                                                                                                                                                                         Ava, Missouri

 Sandra & Steve,

It’s all good!  Ponds and lakes do attract dragonflies and damselflies and you are the proud recipients! They have excellent eyesight and their aerial agility allows them to capture and eat vast amounts of insects that are smaller than themselves.  So they’re very interested in the uninvited “guests” that frequent your new environment like moths, beetles, mosquitoes, aquatic larvae and nymphs.  And with the food supply being so plentiful, they will court and lay their eggs here too.  They do need some vegetation to feed on so if you have planted such things as bulrush, cattail or water lilies you will encourage them to stay.  They also like blue flag iris, cardinal flower, red-twig dogwood and summersweet.  If you have to use any kind of insecticide, be conscious of the good insects and wildlife that may be living there and try to stay as organic as you can.

Ask Monty’s:

“I have two rather large raised garden beds that seem like they dry out very quickly.  I love the fact that I don’t have to bend so far over to maintain the garden, but it seems like I’m always watering it.  Why would these beds dry out so quickly?”

Marty,                                                                                                                                                                                           Seattle, Washington

Marty:

If you’re watering daily you may not be watering long enough or deeply enough. When you water make sure you’re soaking the soil at least five to six inches below ground level.  Another thing to look at is your soil content.  Having a lot of sand in your soil would contribute to why your soil is drying out so fast.  If that is the case the more organic matter, like peat moss and broken down compost, you can incorporate into the soil, the better.  It will help provide nutrients to the soil and help hold moisture.  Regardless of what kind of soil you have, mulch is a must for you as it will help insulate the soil and keep it moist.  Then once the growing season is over you just till it all into the soil for added nutrients as it breaks down over the winter.  Grass clippings and shredded leaves are great for this.

Ask Monty’s:

“I have staggered my green and variegated hostas throughout areas of my yard for creating some color and diversity.  The green hostas come up and do great every year, but my variegated hostas are always smaller and less vibrant.  Why do they look so shabby compared to the green ones when they’re in the same soil getting the same conditions?”

Pat and Lynne,                                                                                                                                                                    Leadmine, Wisconsin

Pat and Lynne,

 Green leafed plants take in more sun which they need to make chlorophyll, which feeds the plant.  Variegated-leafed plants just can’t produce enough food energy as a green leafed plant.  As a result, they can’t keep up with their green leafed neighbor.  But you do have the diversity you were looking for, so despair.