Ask Monty’s for 9/30/10: Roses, Coneflowers and Organic Pest Control

By Dennis on September 30, 2010

Ask Monty’s:

“Do you know of any more natural ways to control garden pests?  I’m trying to stay as chemical free as possible, but some of my methods aren’t covering all the bases.”

Renee
Grey Eagle, Minnesota

Renee:

I applaud your approach and environmental dedication.  While chemicals can be quick, effective answers to warding off garden pests, sometimes some very easy proactive approaches can be just as effective.  Probably the number one garden routine to establish is taking that daily walk in the garden to look for any changes in plant leaves, stalks or flowers.  I’ve caught many “new developments” taking place in my garden on several occasions and warded off major damage with that daily check (Tomato worms can strip a plant in the blink of an eye – I swear!)  That said, it also might mean thinking like a pest or insect and searching for signs of where they hide under leaves.  My mother-in-law, who was a great fisherman, used to say, “If you want to catch fish, you have to think like a fish!”  Same advice applies.

Hand picking off pests such as snails and slugs and destroying affected leaves is important in staying ahead of the game.  Planting garlic, dill, fennel, carrots and parsley among your plants also encourages beneficial insects such as ladybugs to rid your garden of a variety of pests. 

If you’re planting annuals or garden vegetables, rotate where you plant them from year to year, as different plants require different nutrients.  Weeding is also very important so you control desirable habitat for those unwanted pests.  A couple of natural offenses for pests are insecticidal soap mixed with water or pureed cloves of garlic (2) to a pint of water and use as a spray.

Two last thoughts.  First, don’t assume that just because the insect are harming your plants that they are harming your garden.  that can be a tough pill to swallow.  However, think like nature thinks.  These insects prey on the weak plants first.  They are easier targets with less native resitance.  So destorying yoru plants may be doing you a favor in the long run.  The plants that they kill likely would not have produced much fruit and owuld have still taxed the resources like water and nutrients just like they were your best producers.  Additionally if you save seeds for next year from this season, the seeds you save, after the insect have moved through, are naturally resistant to that particular pest. Survival of the fittest can go a long way to giviing you years of improved gardening. Finally, along hte same lines, since we know that insect prey ont he weakest plants first, make sure you have as few ‘weak links’ as possible.  Water adequately and provide additional nutrients with Monty’s foliar applications. Personally, I treat my plants to an extra dose of Monty’s 8-16-8 or 2-15-15 (depending on the plants growth cycle) once a week.

Ask Monty’s:

“My coneflowers this year looked terrible.  They turned brown and looked wilted all the time.  I tried watering them regularly and even fertilized them and they still continued to look deformed and the flowers were sparse.  What happened?  I would rather have had them not come up at all, they were that unsightly.”

Coco
Clyde, Ohio

Coco:

Coneflowers thrive in hot, dry conditions so you may have over watered them in your efforts to revive them.  But when you mentioned the plant deformity and sparse looking flower heads I think your plants have succumbed to aster yellows which is a disease caused by phytoplasoma, a plant killing microorganism transmitted by aster leafhoppers which can often occur from over watering.  Aster yellows can create the bizarre symptoms you suggest, along with other plant deformities.  There’s no cure for aster yellows so my best advice is to dig them up and remove any and all affected plants from your garden and destroy them by burning them or bagging them for the trash. Don’t put them in your compost pile.

Ask Monty’s:

“What’s the difference between a Multiflora Rose and a Virginia Rose?  They look the same and their flowers look similar as well.”

Trudi
Stillwater, Oklahoma

Trudi:

The only thing they really have in common is the fact that they are both deciduous shrubs and thrive in similar zones.  You must have seen these plants either side by side in size or in a photo because these plants are completely different in nature.  Multiflora Roses can grow up to 15 feet tall and are extremely evasive, forming thickets in all kinds of habitat, choking out natural plants and becoming a farmer’s agricultural nightmare.  One plant alone can produce up to one million seeds each year!

The plant you really want is the fragrant Virginia Rose.  This fast growing shrub gets between four to six feet tall and makes for a good hedge or as an addition to a wildlife garden.  The rose hips provide food for wildlife, hosts the Mourning Cloak Caterpillar and even have pretty reddish canes in winter as an added attraction.

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Ask Monty’s for 8/30/2010 Rain Barrels, Tomatoes, and Herbs

By Dennis on August 30, 2010

Ask Monty’s:

“I want to put in some rain barrels at the bottom of my downspouts for all the right reasons.  I was wondering if it makes a difference as to what kind of material the barrels are made of.”

Lowell,
Clifton, Colorado

Lowell:

Welcome to one of the most rewarding and easiest forms of water conservation!  Your plants and garden are going to love your mineral rich rainwater, while slashing your water consumption by up to 40% depending on how much you use it.  Plastic or wood rain barrels are fine and are sold commercially.  The normally come in 25 to 100 gallon options.

Just something to keep in mind though as a note of caution, rain barrels that collect water from copper roofs or from roofs where wood shingles or shakes have been treated with chromated copper arsenate to prevent moss or algae growth should not be used on editable plants.  If you have treated your roof with any chemicals at all you won’t want to use that water either.

Two other notes on rain water collection barrels:

In your neck of the woods especially, you’ll want to empty your rain barrel when the weather starts to freeze over the winter.  If you don’t have a protected indoor area to store it, just turn it upside down and secure it to prevent animals from making a winter home in it or getting water accumulation in it which can freeze, expand, and potentially crack the barrel, especially one that is made of plastic.

Finally, make sure you keep a mesh screen over the top and that you clean it frequently.  The mess can collect debris which will interfere with collection and provide a place for mold and mildew to form.  However, without one all of those items will end up in your barrel and can foul your water.  Additionally, mosquitoes look for ponded, still water to lay their eggs.  An open rain barrel would make an ideal breeding ground for them.  Not only will that make time in your yard less pleasant, across the south this year there has been another outbreak of west nile virus. By eliminating standing water form your property you can greatly reduce mosquito populations for you and your neighbors.

If you are having trouble finding a barrel in your area, may we suggest you talk to one of our friends in Louisville?  This is the link to Naturally Horton’s  for those in the Louisville Metro, its in The Highlands.

Ask Monty’s: 

“When is the best time to harvest herbs?”

Carol
Aitkin, Minnesota

Carol:

The best time to harvest herbs is right before the flowers open.  This is when their aroma and taste in their essential oils are at their peak like thyme, basil and mint.  The preferred time to pick them is also in the morning when they are at their freshest and the most potent.  Never pick herbs in wet or humid conditions. Finally, Monty’s 2-15-15 works well to keep the plants in the flower cycle and may help elevate brix levels, which in herbs will increase the aromatics and flavors as well as improve shelf life.

Also, don’t forget one of our favorite places to visit and to visit virtually is Beagle Ridge Herb Farm in Wytheville, VA.  They are a great source for information for all things herbs, natural gardening, and GARLIC!  check them out here.

Ask Monty’s:

“I’ve read that instead of pulling out spent tomato plants, you can simply cut them back and keep watering them to encourage new growth and fruit.  Is there any truth to this?”

Mike
Norwalk, Iowa

Mike:

Depending on your weather cooperation, this is true and new growth will develop, along with a respectable new harvest.  Make sure you pick tomatoes often, keeping the weight off the stems and branches so they don’t break or bend.  It’ll also give your other plants more room to produce freely.

Once you prune them, you will want ot help encourage new growth as well as help the plant deal with the stresses involved with pruning.  Monty’s 8-16-8 should help with that, then once your plants have regrown and have begun to set blooms again, switch to Monty’s 2-15-15 to enhance flower set and fruit production.

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Ask Monty’s for 8/23/2010 – Magnolias, Bulb Plants, Tomatoes

By Dennis on August 23, 2010

Ask Monty’s:

“I planted my iris, crocus and tulips when we first moved into our house almost ten years ago.  Although they have spread out quite nicely from their original site, they haven’t been producing the abundance of flowers they produced in the first five years or so.  Do they all need a good fertilizing routine – something I never really do?”

Ansel,                                                                                                                                     
Fredericksburg, Virginia

Ansel:

Fertilizer never hurts, especially if you’re not one who consistently does it.  However, I think what you really need to do to rejuvenate your old perennials is simply divide them.  Once you’ve dug them up, divided them and moved them, amend the old site with organic matter to replenish the oil.  You should see your plants revival in the spring once the have room to stretch out again.

Ask Monty’s:

“My pink Magnolia tree is in trouble!  I planted it in the spring and now the leaves are turning yellow and brown and dropping off.  I know it is late summer, but isn’t it a little early for the tree to start losing its leaves?”

Cassandra
Absecon, New Jersey

Cassandra:

Magnolias like moist well drained soil.  The symptoms you are describing indicates droughty and waterlogged soil.  Water the tree thoroughly when the soil at the base of the tree is crumbly and dry.  Then spread wood chips, shredded bark or mulch around the base of the tree to help keep the moisture in, the grass at bay and soil temperatures more even.  The best part about the mulch breaking down is it will nourish the soil to, so replenishing it should be routine.

Ask Monty’s:

“When you pick tomatoes is it better to put them in the refrigerator crisper or leave them out on the counter or a table?”

Ryan
Hopkins, Minnesota

Ryan:

Tomatoes that are not fully ripe will ripen best on a counter or table all on their own.  I’m not shy about picking tomatoes that aren’t quite ripe, so you shouldn’t be either.  From a taste standpoint refrigerated tomato flesh loses its softness and sweetness.  Do a concentrated taste test and decide for yourself.  I sometimes will put my very ripe tomatoes in the refrigerator if I’m not going to get to canning right away, but I even try to stay away from that if I possibly can.

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Ask Monty’s for 8/9/10: Raised Beds, Hostas, and Dragonflies

By Dennis on August 9, 2010

Ask Monty’s:

We put a small pond in our backyard this summer, along with quite a bit of appropriate landscaping plants and flowers around it.  It turned out nice and it is attracting a lot of wildlife to it.  I’ve noticed a lot of dragonflies particularly, something I’ve never really thought much about or thought would find the pond so attractive.  I don’t know much about them but I want to make sure they aren’t a type of bug that is going to cause me any trouble or damage to the plants.  Are they good guys or bad guys?”

 Sandra and Steve,                                                                                                                                                                         Ava, Missouri

 Sandra & Steve,

It’s all good!  Ponds and lakes do attract dragonflies and damselflies and you are the proud recipients! They have excellent eyesight and their aerial agility allows them to capture and eat vast amounts of insects that are smaller than themselves.  So they’re very interested in the uninvited “guests” that frequent your new environment like moths, beetles, mosquitoes, aquatic larvae and nymphs.  And with the food supply being so plentiful, they will court and lay their eggs here too.  They do need some vegetation to feed on so if you have planted such things as bulrush, cattail or water lilies you will encourage them to stay.  They also like blue flag iris, cardinal flower, red-twig dogwood and summersweet.  If you have to use any kind of insecticide, be conscious of the good insects and wildlife that may be living there and try to stay as organic as you can.

Ask Monty’s:

“I have two rather large raised garden beds that seem like they dry out very quickly.  I love the fact that I don’t have to bend so far over to maintain the garden, but it seems like I’m always watering it.  Why would these beds dry out so quickly?”

Marty,                                                                                                                                                                                           Seattle, Washington

Marty:

If you’re watering daily you may not be watering long enough or deeply enough. When you water make sure you’re soaking the soil at least five to six inches below ground level.  Another thing to look at is your soil content.  Having a lot of sand in your soil would contribute to why your soil is drying out so fast.  If that is the case the more organic matter, like peat moss and broken down compost, you can incorporate into the soil, the better.  It will help provide nutrients to the soil and help hold moisture.  Regardless of what kind of soil you have, mulch is a must for you as it will help insulate the soil and keep it moist.  Then once the growing season is over you just till it all into the soil for added nutrients as it breaks down over the winter.  Grass clippings and shredded leaves are great for this.

Ask Monty’s:

“I have staggered my green and variegated hostas throughout areas of my yard for creating some color and diversity.  The green hostas come up and do great every year, but my variegated hostas are always smaller and less vibrant.  Why do they look so shabby compared to the green ones when they’re in the same soil getting the same conditions?”

Pat and Lynne,                                                                                                                                                                    Leadmine, Wisconsin

Pat and Lynne,

 Green leafed plants take in more sun which they need to make chlorophyll, which feeds the plant.  Variegated-leafed plants just can’t produce enough food energy as a green leafed plant.  As a result, they can’t keep up with their green leafed neighbor.  But you do have the diversity you were looking for, so despair.

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Ask Monty’s for 8/2/2010 – Containers, Planters, and Tomatoes

By Dennis on August 2, 2010

Ask Monty’s:

“I have two flower boxes that face to the north that never seems to be able to have a plant survive in them.  I’ve tried impatiens, marigolds, coleus, petunias, but nothing survives.  What could be the problem?”

Gilda

Linton, Indiana

 

Gilda:

Let’s start from the beginning.  As part of my own personal spring prelude to planting, I clean and sterilize my planters every year, so I would suggest we start here. It’s just a good practice all the way around.  I dip my planters in a mild bleach solution and rinse them well before I put soil and plants back in them.  This is one way to just simply get off to a good start.  Bear in mind also that potting mix, by definition, is sterile which means that it will have no organic matter to speak of, so even mixing in a little bit of top-soil and sand (1:1:1 ratio) can help.  Adding Monty’s Liquid Carbon (4 ounces per gallon of water, applied to the soil until moist, not saturated), once the sand and soil are there can help the organic matter flourish.

You may be putting too many plants in one planter, so overcrowding could be the problem.  If these are north facing planters you may be putting plants in them that prefer sun, such as the marigolds, coleus and petunias you mentioned.  Your impatiens should be fine, as well as begonias, asparagus ferns and pansies.  You may even want to try a few herbs in these boxes for something a little different and useful in the kitchen, such as mint, pineapple sage, lavender, chamomile and even basil.  There are different variations of herbs that will thrive in shaded areas, so read the labels carefully before you buy these particular plants or seeds.

Ask Monty’s:

“My yard is too small to consider an actual garden, so I’d like to do some container gardening next year.  What vegetables thrives the best in containers?”

Dorinda,

Savanna, Illinois

Dorinda:

Carrots, lettuce, onions and radishes will do well for you, and tomatoes and peppers for sure.  With some staking or trellis implementation, cucumbers, squash, pole beans and eggplant will do terrific as well. Broccoli and kale are also attractive container plants too.

Don’t forget, also, that square foot gardening is a great option for those with limited space.  You can get more information about square foot gardening on this site, from your local county extension office, or by conducting a web search.  Square foot gardening is a technique that took root (pardon the pun) in third-world countries where space and water were both concerns.  It requires a much smaller footprint, makes a smaller impact on the environment, makes the most of available resources, is easier to tend, and still produces excellent results if managed well.

Ask Monty’s:

“I put my tomato plants in very early this year hoping to get a jump on their production as they are my favorite vegetable and they seem to take so long to grow.  However, my plants are not doing any better than any of my neighbors who were probably three weeks behind me in planting. As a matter of fact, mine even seemed like they stopped growing.  Any insight on why I’m not harvesting early this year?”

Shay,

Springhill, Louisiana

 Shay:

I know it’s hard to be patient when it comes to some of our favorite vegetables and the thoughts of biting into the first harvest.  Spring weather can be a real fooler to the anxious gardener with the warm sun breaking through, but the bottom line is that if the soil is still cool when you put your plants in it will actually slow plant growth.  The soil must be warm for best results when it comes to gardening, so waiting the extra few weeks to plant will help your plants get off to a better start. You might want to consider cold frames next year if you want to put your plants in early and help warm the plant and the soil around them. You should have better results then.

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Ask Monty’s for July 24, 2010: Cannas, Clematis, and Salting Asparagus

By Dennis on July 27, 2010

Ask Monty’s:

 “My cannas leaves seem to be having a problem opening and I’ve noticed that some of them have a rather sticky kind of stringy substance across them.  Not all the leaves are this way as some of the plants in other parts of my yard are looking very good, while others are not.  What could be causing this?”

Don and June

Buckhannon, West Virginia

Don and June:

The leaf roller is about the only thing that bothers cannas.  It’s actually a caterpillar that comes from the skipper moth and prefers to lay her eggs inside young cannas leaves, sewing them shut with that “stringy substance” to protect their larvae.  Once they hatch they will then start feeding on the actual cannas leaves.  You’ll want to gently unfold those young leaves where you can see they are being hindered and you’ll find the pests inside. When I can, I flip them the pests off into the yard where a bird can pick them up for a snack, but if you have a lot of cannas you’ll want to find an insecticide specifically for worm or caterpillars eradication.  If you have leaves that are heavily damaged, remove them and throw in the garbage, not in your compost pile. 

Another note:  After the frost completely kills the plants, remove all the foliage and bag and dispose of them separately so you don’t risk the chance of them over wintering and affecting next year’s plants.  This is particularly important in southern zones where cannas are perennials, as opposed to annuals in the northern climates.

Ask Monty’s:

“Every year I am amazed that my clematis comes up. They’re never spectacular, but they do put forth the effort to flower.  I know they like their “heads in the sun and their feet in the shade” and I have them planted appropriately so.  My problem is that this summer – mid July – the leaves are already starting to turn brown.  Isn’t it a little early for that?

Gayle

Brilliion, Wisconsin

Gayle:

Browning of the leaves is pretty normal particularly after the heat of the summer and once the plant is done blooming. Not too nice to look at, but you can safely prune away the dead leaves and continue to keep the plant well watered and well mulched to keep in the moisture.  If the plants are just beginning to brown, and you are set on reviving them, try applying Monty’s Liquid Carbon to the soil to improve moisture flow into the root zone and to reduce compaction which will allow the roots to spread out and access more moisture and nutrients.  Also start a foliar program with Monty’s 2-15-15. 

If you follow the advice here on our blog you may be wondering why I am recommending the 2-15-15 formula during a ‘growth time’ in the plant’s development cycle.  The reason is your plants are showing signs of stress from heat and drought.  The last thing we want to do is to encourage MORE top-growth when the plant can’t support what it has now.  So by applying the 2-15-15 formula you are signaling the plant to put its energy into developing roots; kinda babying it until it recovers. The plant is also about done for the season, so let’s help it store energy to get through the winter ahead, a high dose of nitrogen right now could keep it from entering dormancy normally and expose the plant to more winter-kill.

If the brown leaves or wilt extends to the actual growing tip and the vine itself becomes brittle or turns almost black, the vine is probably dead as well.  Prune the vine down to the closest living branch area so all the dead material is done away with. Again, if you keep the plant well watered and fed you may continue to see new growth as the summer progresses.

Ask Monty’s:

“I have heard that adding salt to your asparagus beds is supposed to help them.  I have a beautiful wild asparagus bed and would sure like to maintain it as best as I can.  Is there any truth to the salt advice?  Is it just table salt?”

Roland

Crossgate, Kentucky

Roland:

Some people will add sodium chloride rock salt (NaCI) to their asparagus beds after they are at least a year old.  It sounds like your wild bed is already well established – so you can do this.  Apply about two and half pounds per 100 feet either before the spears actually appear in the spring or around July 4 when you’ve already pretty well harvested your crop.  The salt prevents crown and root rot diseases caused by fusarium fungus and actual improves the plants overall growth.  Do not use iodized salt (your common table salt) or rock salt made of calcium chloride (CaCI).  Pickling salt is fine too.

If the thought of adding salt to your plants just sounds to chancey, you may consider using Monty’s Liquid Carbon in the spring and fall. Crown rot and fusarium are what we like to call ‘wet feet’ diseases.  That is, they tend to move in when the roots of the plants are kept excessively moist, either from a wet spring or from over watering. In Kentucky, most gardeners deal with fairly heavy clay soils, so the moisture you receive tends to hang around.  By applying Monty’s Liquid Carbon, you can change the structure of these soils so that they allow the moisture to move more freely through the soil profile which results in better drainage.  Once your drainage situation is under control you will likely see a marked decrease in many of these ‘wet feet’ diseases.

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Ask Monty’s for July 12, 2010: White Clover, Tulip Transplants, and Splitting Tomatoes.

By Dennis on July 12, 2010

Ask Monty’s:

“Why do tomatoes split?  Mine are splitting at the seams!”

Radovich                                                                                                                                                                                       Pikeville, Tennessee

Radovich:

Moisture or heat stress is the culprit here – and some varieties are more susceptible than others. When the fruit becomes too plump too quickly they literally burst their skin.  This often happens after a heavy rainfall that occurs after a very dry spell.  Cracks that radiate down from the stem are caused by heat stress.  This occurs during period of hot, bright sunlight and temperatures above 90 degrees. Even moisture is the key, along with good drainage, and a thick layer of mulch to keep the soil cool and moist.  Remove ripe and nearly ripe fruit after a heavy rainfall as a proactive approach to letting them ripen further and split.  Better that than if you let a split tomato go unchecked and be invaded by insects or slugs which can create more problems for your plants.

Ask Monty’s:

“I separated a hug tulip bed last fall from a neighbor and replanted the bulbs in several new areas throughout my landscape.  This spring they feebly came up with very few having more than one leaf and what ones did flower were not spectacular by any means.  Was my transplanting efforts worthless?”

Cindy                                                                                                                                                                                                  Fowler, Indiana

Cindy:

Hang in here.  Your transplants are still “moving in.”  I hope you let what stems and flower there were yellow and die off undisturbed as they store the carbohydrates back into the bulbs as part of their regeneration process.  The bulbs just simply need to get a little larger and a little more situated in their new home before they exhibit the flower power you’re used to.  This could take a year or two, so like I said, hang in there!

Ask Monty’s:

“Is clover damaging to your lawn?  My lawn is experiencing a little more than usual and my husband wants to get rid of it.”

Madison                                                                                                                                                                                        Dubuque, Iowa

Madison:

Some people consider clover a weed, a bad rap it got in the late 1950’s when broadleaf herbicides killed the clover, along with more harmful weeds. The eradication of lawn clover then gave way to a lawn care trend of cloverless yards that homeowners found more desirable.  The advantages of clover in your lawn actually outweighs the disadvantages such as:

  • Cover is draught-tolerant staying green virtually from spring to the first frost.
  • Clover is a built in nitrogen producing fertilizer creating its own nitrogen and fertilizes nearby plants and grass as well.
  • Clover out competes most other weeds and reduces the need for weeding or herbicide use.
  • Clover tolerates poor soil conditions, growing particularly well in poor quality subsoil commonly found around the foundation of new homes.
  • Clover is immune to “dog patches” where female dogs urine discolors lawn grasses, staying green and lush despite the abuse.
  • Clover is inexpensive at about $4 per 4,000 square feet or by just letting it grow and spread.

You cna learn more about the plant, and ways to get rid of it, if htat remains your choice, here.

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Ask Monty’s for 6/30/10 – Elephant Ears for Northern Climates, Late-Season Cold Snaps, and Late Blight on Tomatoes

By Dennis on June 30, 2010

Ask Monty’s:

“When we lived in Florida I had several elephant ear mammoths, which I dug up and moved with me to Maine.  Can these be planted as a perennial in this northern climate or will I need to dig them up every year?”

Hailey

Hallowell, Maine

Hailey:

In the southern states, where the winters are mild, elephant ears are perennials. However, moving them north of the Mason-Dixon Line will turn them into perennials that have to be dug up before hard frosts and winter snow hits.  If you have it in a movable pot and have the room, you could cut back the leaves and bring it in the house in the winter.  Otherwise, after the first frost you can cut the dead foliage back with a scissors and let it go dormant for the winter by putting it in a cool dark basement.

About 2-3 weeks ahead of dormancy I would also recommend making an application of Monty’s 2-15-15 formula.  This formula is excellent for helping the plant store energy and developing the roots over the winter, however, it will not provide enough N to spur on any late season growth.  Then in the spring when you transplant them or get ready to move them back outside, start them off slowly with Monty’s 4-15-12 it will provide enough N to slowly wake them up and bring them around (if you will be transplanting them it will also help minimize transplant shock).  Once they are established well, feel free to use Monty’s 8-16-8 to develop the enormous, gorgeous ears that make elephant ears the pride of the garden.

One last note, in your growth zone, as cold as winters can be, if you leave it in the ground, like cannas, the constant heaving of the soil from the elements, will simply cause it to crack, rot and dry out.

Ask Monty’s:

“We had such warm temperatures in April in our area that I went and starting planting some of my cool weather vegetables and what I thought were hardy flowering plants.  A cold snap slipped in about mid-May – much to everyone’s surprise – and froze all my plants.  Is there ever a standard rule of thumb regarding when it’s safe to plant in a person’s particular zone?”

Devon

Bucyrus, Ohio

Devon:

What you want to find out is what the average last frost date is in your area or zone for starters.  Visit www.noaa.govand type “frost dates” into the search box and you’ll get some pretty valuable information.  Another great site I found was through an online retailer call Greenhouse Magazine who has a facebook link: facebook.com/greenhousemegastore that shows detailed charts for all areas in every state.  It even has a nice image showing what the average dates are in your area.

Even with all of the cautions in the world, sometime mother nature has some surprises in store for us. Even though at Monty’s we have not investigated it scientifically, many gardeners and even farmers swear by the ability of Monty’s to help plants withstand the shock of our of season freezes.  One of our favorite stories came from a farmer who farms above the high-line in Northern Montana.  In 2005 they had a freeze where temperature dropped to 28 degrees for over 4 hours one July night.  While his untreated corn and all of his neighbors corn suffered severe frost damage, his Monty’s treated corn showed no sign of damage and went on to produce a great crop that fall.  As soon as your plants emerge or get established start treating them with Monty’s 8-16-8 every week or so.  See for yourself if you don’t join the ranks of homeowners with amazing Monty’s tales to tell.

Ask Monty’s:

“Late last summer my tomatoes got a blight that destroyed all of them.  Is this something I have to worry about again this summer?  So far my plants look excellent.”

Ansel

Adrian, Georgia

Ansel:

Late blight does not winter over in the soil in colder climates, but in warmer climates it can still be a threat – even in Georgia.  Be sure to water your plants close to the ground so moisture doesn’t actually splash up on the leaves.  A good bed of mulch like grass or straw will help keep the moisture in and the “splash” factor down which should help tremendously.

An application of Monty’s Liquid Carbon to your soil in the fall and/or the spring (you can even make an ’emergency’ application now) will help to increase the organic matter in the soil.  This will give you two benefits: One, it will help the soils drain.  Well drained soils do not have the tendency to create anaerobic environments that are beneficial to harmful bacteria.  Two, it may help improve the overall soil environment and encourage the native beneficial bacteria population so that they out-compete the harmful ones for resources.

Finally, since you are tlaking about late blight, I assume your plants are already blooming.  Spoon feed the plants additional nutrients like a tsp of epsom salts around the base of each plant (for added magnesium) and weekly applications of Monty’s 2-15-15 to provide for the overall health and nutrient needs of your tomatoes. 

Like all pest, diseases, and bacteria, late blight is a symptom that something else is wrong with your garden or plants.  Across all of nature, disease and prey always attack the weakest first.  By providing the nutrients they need, your plants will be able to better defend themselves with their own natural defense mechanisms.

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3 Generations, 3 Recipes, 3 Things to do with Cucumbers

By Dennis on June 18, 2010

To me, there is very little that is better than to bite into a cold cucumber.  In salads, on sandwiches, or as a garnish, they just scream freshness.  So this year, for the first time, I am attempting to grow my own.  I spaced my rows too close together, but otherwise they are doing fine.  With the help of Monty’s 4-15-12 at planting, Monty’s 8-16-8 during the growth or vegetative stage, and Monty’s 2-15-15 now that I am into the fruiting, I am harvesting about every other day, now.  My county agent came by yesterday to see all that I was doing and he said that I had so many blooms on my cucumbers that he could not count them all.  Which brings me to a question that you may have; what to do with all of those cucumbers?

Well, one of my favorite childhood memories was going to my Aunt Clara’s house. (technically she was my mom’s aunt and my great aunt but all of those vagaries escaped the mind of a pre-tween boy who was farm more fascinated with the days on the farm).  Aunt Clara was married to my Uncle Price (my namesake) and together they had a good northeast Texas farm.  I loved lunch there because each meal mean that she would open up a jar of pickles she had ‘put up’ that season.  I would eat as many as I could get away with, then sneak a few more in the afternoon when I caught them unattended.  After she passed, I asked one of my family members if anyone had her recipe.  I finally tracked it down and am now sharing it with you.  Truly, this is one of the best pickle recipes I have ever encountered.  It is simple but the results are wonderful.  I hope you enjoy making some ‘Aunt Clara Pickles’ this season.  Write back and let me know.

The second recipe comes from my mom.  She had farming in her veins but was the first generation to move off farm as she became a school teacher and missionary.  Needless to say her schedule kept her busy but she always maintained a garden patch or would enlist me to go with her on Saturday mornings to ‘pick on the halves’ at a local farm or to attend the Dallas Farmers Market before such things were trendy.  She never made traditional pickles, but she always had some ‘refrigerator dills’ going all summer long.  These modern "pickles" matched her lifestyle, they were quick, easy and "no muss, no fuss".  True, these are not pickles in the most explicit use of the word, but they also require no boiling, canning, or time.  What they lack in the true texture of pickles they make up for with the freshness of flavor that still carries a strong resemblance to cucumbers.  This recipe takes a total of about five minutes to prepare and while they are best if left to sit overnight, they can be ready to eat in as little as a few hours.  The recipe is below, under Mom’s Refrigerator Dills.

Finally, in this world of gardening and cooking in which I was raised, it was only natural that I would one day venture out and begin to try my own hand at each of these activities.  As such, I developed a quick light summer salad that can be used as a salad, a side dish, or a a great topper for grilled chicken.  It combines all of my favorite harbingers of summer, tomatoes, avocado, and of course cucumber.  You will find the  recipe below under  Summer Medley.

Aunt Clara’s Pickles

2 Qts. Water

1 Qt Apple Cider Vinegar

¾ – 1 Cup pickling salt (to taste – start with ¾ )

(Adjust above amounts proportionally to accommodate number of cucumbers.)

 Wash and Scrub Cucumbers

Place 1-2 bushy heads fresh dill w/stalks (fresh – not dry seed) into each jar.

Place cucumbers in jars – pack tightly.

Heat water, salt, and vinegar to boiling.

Pour mixture over cucumbers in jars to within ¼ inch of top.

Have new jar lids ready by bringing 1-2 inches of water to boil and placing jars lids (flat part with rubber seal) into boiling water for 5 min.

 Wipe off jar mouth with clean cloth prior to placing lids on jars. Place lids on jars (fresh from boiling water) and tighten retaining ring securely.

 Place filled jars into deep pan of boiling water sufficient to cover jars by at least 1 inch. Boil for 6 minutes. Remove from water (carefully) and place on towel to cool. Lids should “pop” down into concave shape upon cooling; otherwise, they are not securely sealed and should be reheated and cooled as above.

After properly sealed, store them in a cool dry area for 1-2 months to finish the pickling process.  Once they are finished, I dare ya to eat just one!

Mom’s Refrigerator Dills

Clean, Peel, and slice 2-3 medium to large cucumbers into ‘chips’  (If you are dealing with young, soft-skinned cucumbers you can skip peeling them)

Peel and slice a medium onion into rings

Layer mixture into a bowl just large enough to hold all of the cucumbers and onions

Add salt and pepper to taste (one clove of garlic is optional)

Add white vinegar until cucumbers and onions are just covered with liquid.

Place in refrigerator for at least 4-6 hours. 

Enjoy

Price’s Summer Medley

1-2 large Cucumber, 2-3 Large tomatoes, 1-2 avocados

make sure avocados are ripe, but not soft enough to make guacamole.

Pit and peel avocado, slice into six wedges.

Cut each wedge into two to three segments, set aside

Wash and cut tomatoes in to chunks, roughly an inch square or so. Set aside

Wash, Peel, and Slice cucumber into chips.  Cut chips in half.  (If you prefer you can diced the cucumber into large 1/2 inch chunks. Set aside.

In a medium sized bowl combine all three ingredients.  Add just a splash of olive oil.  Stir or toss lightly to coat.

Salt and pepper to taste.

If you have access to fresh herbs you may add those to taste, or optionally for spice add some dried chili pepper seeds or ‘Targin’ seasoning mix.

Enjoy!

Now as your cucumbers start to ‘come off’ you have three new recipes to try so you won’t have to wonder what to do with all of nature’s bounty.  With a little practice and patience you will have the fresh taste of summer, year round which is one of the things that makes gardening so enjoyable.  If you have a favorite recipe, let us know.  Simply send it to us in the comment section.

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Summertime and the Living is HOT!

By Dennis on June 14, 2010

Right now  we are experiencing one of those hot dry spells for which the south is famous!  The heat is in the 90’s and the humidity is in the 60-85% range leaving us with heat indices over 100.  Right now, I believe my heat index is 108.

It is not only making me miserable, my plants are showing the effects, too.  So, this week I thought I would share some tips on gardening in this climate.

1. It all starts in the spring.  Choose native varieties of plants that are already conditioned for your climate.  Trying to grow cool season plants in near tropical conditions will never end well.  Work with nature, not against it.  If you give in to a particular flower or vegetable just because it looks good in the magazine, you may coax it into surviving, but it will take you far more effort and water than you may have anticipated.

2. It all starts in the spring, part two.  Gardeners are always tempted to water heavily.  The rule of thumb is 1 inch of water per week.  However, once your plants are established, let the soil dry out a few times in between waterings in the cool of the spring.  This will encourage the roots to reach down deeper.  If you don’t do this and you are always giving the plants abundant moisture, the root systems will be shallow and the plants will be far more susceptible to drought stress when the upper two inches of soil dry out.

3. Mulch.  Applying mulch to your garden will do two things, it will help keeps weeds from out-competing your plants for needed moisture.  Secondly, it will help to keep the moisture that is present from evaporating as quickly.  Simply apply the mulch to within  four inches of the base of the plant.  In vegetable gardens, apply the mulch in between rows.

I learned the hard way this season not to mulch all the way up to the plant stem.  My county agent informed me that doing this keeps the soil too moist and helps it serve host to a wide variety of bacteria and fungal problems.  Of my 44 tomato plants I lost 16 due to soil borne pathogens resulting from my soil being too wet, too close to the stem.

4. When you do water, water deeply.  Most plants need approximately 1 inch of water per week.  If you don’t know how much that is,  simply scatter some empty tuna cans around your gardens and begin watering.  When the cans are full, you have watered approximately 1 inch.

5.  All plants are not created equally.  In your flower beds, cactus and other succulents can easily be overwatered. They actually prefer it hot and a bit on the dry side.  In the garden, okra and peppers are the same, while tomatoes and melons are heavy feeders and require abundant moisture.  With this in mind, water your plants in blocks rather than all at once so that similar plants receive adequate moisture.

6. Water in the morning, when possible.  The temperatures and conditions are most favorable for watering either in the morning or at night when evaporation loss will be lowered (good for your plants, better for your budget).  However, if you water at night and the plants do not have time to dry out, you will create a great breeding ground for bacteria and fungus that will ultimately be harmful.

7. Use Monty’s foliar fertilizers. Monty’s formulas are low in salts and will not cause additional crops injury or burn, even during the hot summer months.  Plus, the additional nutrients can help your plants better deal with stresses related to heat and drought.

8. Finally, your plants are not the only things that need water.  Keep yourself hydrated while you are working in the sun. Drink at least 8 extra ounces for each hour you are working (and sorry, beer and sodas don’t count..they actually will work as diuretic and further compound the problem).

If you have any tips, leave us a comment.  We’d love to hear from you and to see pics of your gardening success. Post them below.

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